Rep Power: 229

coupe, i gotta keep it lighter and sporty, plus i like the lines better on the coupe, but yea my gf is gonna help me out (mostly just handing me tools) and me and my boy who works at a body shop are gonna tear her up, soon im plannin on getting an AEM CAI, and then the Skunk2 70mm Exhaust, eventually headers and hopefully get the AJP turbo so i can be boosted like my man foos haha, but ima b gettin mine installed professionally

 
Rep Power: 241

i dont think you can use the AC button as a switch. it might work. but whenever yyou turn the defrost on the AC auto comes on and you cant shut it off. i found this out already. it sux cause i dont want the AC to be running in the winter. ill be pushing heat through there not cold!

 
Rep Power: 299

They make the AC come on with the defroster because it helps the windows clear up faster. There is a way to disable it tho. It was posted somewhere on here let me search!

 
Rep Power: 241

sweet please do... i hat the fact that you cant turn the AC off regaurdless

 
Rep Power: 313

found it! its an 8th gen sticky! And it workes on my friends DC5 and my EM2

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...ogramming.html

 
Rep Power: 241

thank you...works like a charm.. less than a minute mod! i love it

 
Rep Power: 267

hey there wel i was looking at cooling diagram how it looks the fans should
come one throught the radiator fan switch if i am not mistaken and looking
in the wrong way at it.Even with the ac removed.

 
Rep Power: 812

ya i love the -secret turn off the ac when defrost is used.

 
Rep Power: 0

God wiring diagrams make my head hurt!

OK, so I can pull that stupid radiator fan switch out and replace it with my aftermarket coolant sensor since it become irrelevant now right?


Gah!! I can't read these diagrams very well. I was just going to go in there with a multimeter, test which wire went hot after pushing the AC button and disconnect that and re-route it to the master fan relay wire - that Black/Yel one. I think that would work but I don't know. I suck at wiring.

Changed the thread title for some help.

 
Rep Power: 229

i jus got a horrible fone call, dealership called, and my car got pushed back to november to come i damnit im pissed

 
Rep Power: 328

Look at it as an early Christmas present.



Now foos, I was looking at the wire diagram, it looks to me that if you wire the AC switch to work as a switch for the BLK/YEL wire it "should" work.

Let me know.

 
Rep Power: 267

hey foos, if we follow start at + (green line) firstly we come at the connection for the fan motors(blue line) still + other side of the motors are grounded.
If we continue at the branch we see that of the moment which the iginition swithses on + will go al the way to the realay spool. only thing you need is a - so we can make current flow . radiator fan switch connected to neg. - has been linked that the only thing that can make it work.
so it all has to work wen your fan switch comes on.

I drew it a little so its will get more clearly. check you fan switch firts.

 
Rep Power: 0

All right, this helps a lot, but I'm still going to have break out the voltmeter and physically test wires so I know what's going on. I absolutely hate wiring. I think the problem will be the may A/C pressure sensor, how that signal ties in from the switch, and where to re-route it from.

For now, until I break out the voltmeter, I just wired up a rocker switch and tucked up under the dash a little so you can't see it. Although it does give my feet a nice red glow.

Fixed my gauges too! Turns (for real time), that by tapping the signal wire of the stock coolant sensor to run both my after market gauge and stock gauge, it flipped the ECU because the resistance was too high. So I just need to get a smaller temp sensor and an inline water block to run it off of.

 
Rep Power: 0

I just ran it to test the gauges. The gauges work, but I think I did pop the HG the other day. I'll know for sure in the morning when I start it up and see how it idles. So ARP studs are on the way now too, since I may as well put them in as insurance when I replace the HG.

Gotta love it!!

 
Rep Power: 267

maybe stupod but whats the difference between air con, climate con
just to make sure i am looking at the right diagram.

 
Rep Power: 0

The only thing I can think of is if the Civic came with individual climate control - independent heating and cooling for either passenger or driver.

 
Rep Power: 304

man im back! 2 exams, 1 quiz, and alot of HW later, i come back to this thread and i see that the Beast in the making is running!! thats awesome man! CONGRATS!! i need to buy you a gift now... give me a few

 
Rep Power: 245

Whew! I finally caught up to the end of this thread.

I have nothing to add. This post is so I can mark where I left off.

Continued good luck and success, Clint...

 
Rep Power: 0

Buh bye.

 
Rep Power: 281

and the hits keep on comin....


back on topic...what kind of vaccuum mani did you end up using? I still need to get one or make one out of NPT and/or AN fittings...

 
Rep Power: 229

thats b/s man, my dad was in th navy so i kno somewhat wut ur talkin bout n that is def complete b/s oh well, wut r u gonna do, power hungry bastards....

 
Rep Power: 267

hey there foos
wel today i disconnected the ac press switch connector,manual says is to secure the ac system of overpress.But tested it started up te car and let
it idle warm, I also wrote down oil temp reading.
10min idle 58°C
15min idle 70°C
23min idle 80°C fans came on
26min fans on 2de time
29min fans on 3de time
30min idle 88-90°C
40min idle 91°C
So for now i can tell ya its not the ac press switch.
For the ac button i looked at the ac diagram and if i am reading it correct, its ground and connected at the spool side of the compressor clutch relay.
if some one else can check if i am correct that would be great but i hope
this nfo can help you.



peace keep up the good work.

 
Rep Power: 0

Buh bye.

 
Rep Power: 0

If anyone knows what size it is off the top of their head (PS pulley nut), that would be great. Majestic just has it as "Power Steering Pulley Nut" and no thread pitch.

 
Rep Power: 0

Yeah, you've got a Subie now right? Factory reliable boost FTW! I can't wait to just hit 9 psi, but I've got to fix these issues first. Exhaust and PS pump should be taken car of tomorrow, then I'm just waiting for the HGs and ARP studs to arrive so I can replace the head gasket.

I hate changing out HGs. My back hurts for like two days afterwards. As long as the studs don't give me grief it should only take about 4 hours though.

 
Rep Power: 281

man you are old....

did you end up using the 4-port or 6-port vacuum mani?

 
Rep Power: 267

will disconnect compressor tomorrow and see what happens.
what you mean by normal driving? if i drive like normal like 80km/h oil temp will
stay 212°F. On the highway 30 min 120km/h it will go to 233°F - at 140 it goes to 248°F that doesnt look like normal then?

 
Rep Power: 0

I'm using the 6-port vac mani but only needed three ports - BOV, WG, and gauge. I T'd into another line for my addt'l map sensor. I'd get the 4-port if I were you. I have no idea what I'd use the three other ports for.

Ching, are you running 5W20 or 5W30? My temps used to rise to 240° F on highway driving, but since I switched to the 5W30, they don't go above 220° now.

 
Rep Power: 281

thanks bro. I didn't know if i needed more than that so I was holding off til you answered.

 
Rep Power: 0

No probs man.

And I officially suck at welding.

Straight lines on plate steel is no problem. However this pipe welding stuff is kicking my ***. I've been practicing for 4 hours now and I'm just going to attack the exhaust at this point. Practice is for ****.

I'll make it work even if it takes me 8 iterations of weld, grind to find holes, weld, grind to find holes, ad nauseum!