Gonzo.
#2
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enie meanie miny moe, ...shoulda gone NA yo!
Looks like fun though. It wouldnt be any fun if everything went smoothly.
Looks like fun though. It wouldnt be any fun if everything went smoothly.
#3
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And I haven't even tried installing everything yet.
There's a lesson to be learned here folks. If you buy a kit, you don't have to go through all this crap.
Don't get me wrong, I'm enjoying working on the car, but damn it, I want boost already!
There's a lesson to be learned here folks. If you buy a kit, you don't have to go through all this crap.
Don't get me wrong, I'm enjoying working on the car, but damn it, I want boost already!
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Steve at racecoated.com hooked me up. Which option do you think I should go with?
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i say option 4, u can always sell the dumptube and downpipe here, someone will pay for a well wrapped dt and dp, just relocate it and be done, god if i was u id be so sick of waiting and waiting to get this done, uve been working on it for so long
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doesnt look too bad, ur braver than i, core support cutting.... wow, foos ur a brave guy, good luck with the exhaust. didnt know all of that cost u so much money, id probably have quit by now, but thats the price u pay to booost, congrats on solving ur problem...
#9
...JeRsEy sTyLe...
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i was gonna suggest hood spacers it would only provide function as it pulls the hot air out of the enginebay.. i did it to mine to make my strut bar properly fit.
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If it was in the back, then hood spacers would be an idea, however with the WG being in front like that, there's a much better chance of air catching it and popping the hood up.
I'm not too worried about the core support bit. I'm going to reinforce it later when I get the exhaust welded up. You see those cross members cut all the time. Its still connected and will be MIG'd up soon for more support.
I'm not too worried about the core support bit. I'm going to reinforce it later when I get the exhaust welded up. You see those cross members cut all the time. Its still connected and will be MIG'd up soon for more support.
#11
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lol u couldn't wait 4 hours for people to reply? hehehe, just joking. Looks like everything is solved
#13
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Yeah Travis, I'm a little impatient when I comes to wrenching around on my car!
Hopefully I don't run into any problems when I start cutting on the hood. I'll start that Tuesday since my wife is going to Rome for a week and I can deadline the car while I get the exhaust and clearance issue taken care of.
Woohoo! Rep's working again. Although I just gave out all I could for the next 24 hours.
Hopefully I don't run into any problems when I start cutting on the hood. I'll start that Tuesday since my wife is going to Rome for a week and I can deadline the car while I get the exhaust and clearance issue taken care of.
Woohoo! Rep's working again. Although I just gave out all I could for the next 24 hours.
#14
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i was going to say option 1 anyway... sorry i got here so late. do u think the wastegate my clunk on the radiator support thing? like i guess when ur pulling wont the engine move back alittle and when u let off the throttle itll just clunk forward? or is that just me thinking paranoid.
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Yeah, thats true. I dyno'd my car yesterday and the engine was just sloshing around in there. Really makes me want to dump the money into a torque damper. heads up foos.
#16
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Good point fellas, I'll bend that bit out a touch before reinforcing it. I already have a torque dampener and engine mount inserts. The engine doesn't move at all. I have mad vibration now at idle but the engine is rock solid in place.
Triz, buy the ES inserts (they're like $30 shipped) before you get the Ingalls. You'll probably find you don't need the Ingalls after you put the inserts in. Huge difference from stock engine with stiffy to to stock engine with stiffy and inserts.
Triz, buy the ES inserts (they're like $30 shipped) before you get the Ingalls. You'll probably find you don't need the Ingalls after you put the inserts in. Huge difference from stock engine with stiffy to to stock engine with stiffy and inserts.
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where can i get this ES insert?? i dont want a tq damper for its price, but if motor mount inserts do the same for less...where's a good place?
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Energy Suspension (ES) has a store front on Ebay, you can get them there. Summit carries them and so does the Energy Suspension website. Pretty easy to find. I'll get the part number after work today and post it up.
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**** sorry Burke, wife is leaving for Rome in about 10 mins and we were up all night packing.
16.1111 is the part number, you're right. I bought mine here on Ebay.
Ebay owns you
16.1111 is the part number, you're right. I bought mine here on Ebay.
Ebay owns you
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https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...or-mounts.html
Last edited by greeen01civic4d; 07-23-2007 at 11:29 PM.
#23
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Rotate that elbow on the flange 90 degrees to the passenger side. Lay the WG sideways along the log. Get it as low as you can get it. You wont be able to bolt it on... so check and see if it fits, then weld the elbow to the manifold.
The farther away from the core support you can get it, the more clearance you have. Get the WG sideways rather than laying forward, you'll have more room.
The farther away from the core support you can get it, the more clearance you have. Get the WG sideways rather than laying forward, you'll have more room.
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Good advice, but its too late at this point, I can make it work.
Once I hollow out the underside of the hood I won't have any clearance issues. I just don't feel like changing the orientation of everything and paying for welding again, that **** was expensive over here $300 USD equivalent for the work. I would have to sort new dump pipe tubing, flange, and so on and just don't want to **** with it. Tacking a support bar back on that cross member will be easy, I can just MIG that myself.
Brute force and ignorance will see this through. Thanks for the suggestion though.
Once I hollow out the underside of the hood I won't have any clearance issues. I just don't feel like changing the orientation of everything and paying for welding again, that **** was expensive over here $300 USD equivalent for the work. I would have to sort new dump pipe tubing, flange, and so on and just don't want to **** with it. Tacking a support bar back on that cross member will be easy, I can just MIG that myself.
Brute force and ignorance will see this through. Thanks for the suggestion though.
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i went through the same **** to get my manifold to fit, i know how you feel..
#26
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Yep, gonna start cutting on the hood tonight and am also going to measure what I need and chop the piping off the cat in prep for the fix.
I'm going to start installing **** this week too. I've had enough waiting around. All that's left is waiting for the boost gauge install kit, and WG spring to arrive then getting the exhaust sorted. I figure I'll be able to get the IC mounted and holes cut for the piping tonight after sorting the exhaust. Fuel pump tomorrow, plus coolant lines for the blower. After that we'll have to see.
Enough is enough. This **** is going on.
I'm going to start installing **** this week too. I've had enough waiting around. All that's left is waiting for the boost gauge install kit, and WG spring to arrive then getting the exhaust sorted. I figure I'll be able to get the IC mounted and holes cut for the piping tonight after sorting the exhaust. Fuel pump tomorrow, plus coolant lines for the blower. After that we'll have to see.
Enough is enough. This **** is going on.
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OK, 3 hours later, I've got half the lawn mowed. Its been raining too damn much here lately. I'm tired, hungry and old so I'm going to eat supper, drink some beer and play the PS2 for a bit. Turbo stuff and fitment issues will still be there tomorrow.
#29
I wil fix vBPlaza today
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yea when im done with work today, i gotta study for my exam tomorrow, then try at that endlink again, then finally play some guitar hero
#30
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2.5" straight pipe and flex coupler ordered from Summit to fix my exhaust issue. Another $60 down the drain. I'm at $5633 (give or take a few bucks) for the entire build now. Jesus Christ. I have a lot of extra stuff not in your normal kit (clutch and FW, Koyo rad, gauges, wideband, and so on) but that's still a large chunk of change.