Rep Power: 244

I have never bought one but where does it say this?

If it can't charge a battery/run a load then what good is it? Alternators are designed to do this.

You have:

A.) Something wrong with your car that is causing these issues.
B.) Poorly made alternators off eBay that can only handle minimal loads
C.) A combo of both A and B
D.) Bad luck

Poor installation like loose bolts or wires can cause premature failure also.

 
Rep Power: 368

must be a helluva bad luck to have so many issues in such short times. but again, he was still missing the point, so...

 
Rep Power: 119

Not sure, but every alternator I have bought has either had a tag on it, or said it on the box. https://www.optimabatteries.com/en-u...dead-batteries

 
Rep Power: 119

Very satisfied with this alternator. The voltage even stays above 14 volts with the electrical system fully loaded at idle. I can't make the voltage go below 14 volts no matter what I do unless the PCM puts it into low charge mode when it's not under much load. The stock alternators couldn't even keep the battery from draining when fully loaded at idle, so this alternator is a HUGE improvement! I like it a lot!

 
Rep Power: 119

And there is no disadvantage that I can see to installing a high output alternator besides price. It is not really any bigger physically, and it's only 3/4 of a pound heavier.

 
Rep Power: 119

I have not been satisfied with any of the LED headlights that I have bought. The first kit worked well for about 4 months, then one of the headlights got very dim and died. The brand of that kit was Iegeek, and the kit was about $30. I figured "Oh well. That's what happens when you buy cheap Chinese crap." The second kit I bought was made by Cougar Motors, and it cost a little over $40. That kit worked well initially, but after about 6 months, both headlights got yellow, and eventually one died completely. I wasn't happy, so I bought a Hikari LED headlight kit for over $70. Hikari is apparently a well respected Japanese brand, and it had a lot of great reviews. Initially, the performance was a little better than the cheaper ones, but nothing significant. However, if they lasted at least 2 or 3 years, it would have been worth the price to me. Too bad they didn't. After about 1 year, 1 of the headlights is getting very dim and turning blue. Now I'm pissed off because I wasted over $70 on more junk. However, these headlights have a 2 year warranty, so I may be able to get them swapped out. But my question is are any of the LED headlight kits decent, or do they all suck?

 
Rep Power: 368

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...-lighting.html

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...it-2010-a.html

 
Rep Power: 119

I was driving through a neighborhood at probably 10 MPH maximum and all of a sudden, the back of my car dropped. I looked out the mirror, and I saw that the wheel was missing! Luckily, a very nice mobile mechanic stopped and gave me lug nuts and let me use his tools to put the wheel back on. I have American Racing rims with the correct lug nuts, and I always torque them to spec whenever I remove a wheel. I called the police to make a report, and the police officer said "Sir, wheels sometimes just rattle loose. No one is trying to hurt you." Just curious if any of you ever had a wheel fall off while you were driving.

 
Rep Power: 244

Judging from your past experiences someone probably loosened your lug nuts. A properly torqued wheel with the correct lugs doesn’t just fall off.

Move your residence!!!

 
Rep Power: 223

Move or set up cameras

 
Rep Power: 119

I did set up cameras. The problem is that the parking lot isn't by the building, and when I put the cameras in my car, "someone" hits them with a burning laser, destroying them and corrupting the data.

 
Rep Power: 223

Hide them better.
Can also get wheel lock nuts, it will make it slightly harder for someone to mess with it, but more importantly it will be more obvious if someone tampers with it

 
Rep Power: 119

Great idea. I would think that attempted murder would be considered serious, but the police apparently believe otherwise.

 
Rep Power: 103

i had a highschool girlfriends father loosen mine. as i was taught in drivers ed, i always walk around the car before driving though to make sure the tires are not flat and there is nothing behind the car. i actually noticed a small gap behind a lugnut and touched it, it was loose, they were all loose. caught it before driving!

 
Rep Power: 119

Oh wow. How did you know who did it?

 
Rep Power: 103

Edit by moderators:

street racing is not condoned by the forums, so this post was edited

 
Rep Power: 519

At this point, it's YOUR FAULT for not fixing the problem.
That problem is the "someone" you cannot prove is now trying to KILL YOU and everyone around you.

BTW any reasonable cop should consider that to be attempted murder. (unless you're just a whining punk)

I'm sure his police cruiser loses wheels on a regular basis and he just laughs it off while calling for a tow truck?

 
Rep Power: 211

Because, her (high school girlfriend) baby looked just like RobertD at the time...lol

 
Rep Power: 211

Fishbone wrote a song about this a long time ago:

 
Rep Power: 119

I still didn't get an answer. Is this safe to ignore as long as I don't start it in gear?

 
Rep Power: 519

You already came up with your own answer.

 
Rep Power: 119

I know. I just want to make sure that this issue won't cause another problem or strand me if I ignore it.

 
Rep Power: 519

It's my job to tell you it's broken, the government mandated safety starter interlock feature has been defeated disabled bypassed or broken and SHOULD be fixed correctly. The next decision is all on you. Congratulations your car is now in about 1986 safety standards.



I'd at least want to know exactly why it was done and know how well it was done. I wouldn't want a hairpin bypass jumper to fall out on a bump and not start on the next try.

 
Rep Power: 119

I did not bypass the starter interlock, and it used to work until recently. No one besides me has worked on this car since it's been in my possession. I think that the issue is inside the fusebox, but I need to do more testing to find out.

Update: It is in the fusebox. I checked for continuity between the 2 load side terminals on the fusebox, and there is continuity even with the relay out. But now that I messed with the relay, it won't start at all weather the relay is in or out and there is no longer continuity between the 2 load side terminals on the fusebox. Ever see a fusebox fail in this way?

 
Rep Power: 519

Stuck (temporarily) relay?

 
Rep Power: 119

No. It's definately in the fusebox. There was continuity across the load side terminals on the fusebox even with no relay installed, but now it is completely open even with the relay in or the load side jumpered.

 
Rep Power: 211

It's a Civic Time Machine... it's fringe:

 
Rep Power: 368

found the reason you have so many issues in such short time :P

 
Rep Power: 123

i should have taken my own advise.
i'm currently installing a stage 5 clutch.
I should have pulled the engine and tranny.
Not much room to maneuver with the transmission still in the car...

 
Rep Power: 223

Pull the water passage dude!