Rep Power: 519

It's fine.

 
Rep Power: 119

Thanks!

 
Rep Power: 519

IMO Ideally you want the fluid to stay below around 200F. Unless and until you load it heavily, it sounds like the aux cooler will do that just fine.
If you really want to add some gear you could get a temp gauge for the ATF.


On newer cars the manufacturer now uses the heat exchanger as an ATF warmer too, it's not only a cooler.

 
Rep Power: 119

Thanks. Is there a minimum acceptable temp too? I don't think anything is going to get too cold here in Memphis.

 
Rep Power: 519

Warmer fluid means better fuel efficiency too, that's a big reason for a fluid warmer. But too hot makes fluid break down quicker.


The trans works fine for Canadians at -40C and lower..... I bet they are kinda slow to shift when it's that cold though. Think about how long it would take to get trans fluid up to 200F if it's so damn cold your breath is freezing into ice cubes as you exhale.


Some manufacturers/models inhibit overdrive/lockup based on a temperature, most that I have encountered that do this are looking for coolant temp instead of trans fluid temp. Others use ATF temp data for other controls too.

 
Rep Power: 119

Thanks for the detailed explanation. I know for a fact that my trans will unlock when the coolant temp gets below a certain temp, although I don't remember what it is. Somewhere around 150 IIRC.

 
Rep Power: 119

My car recently started pissing all over the passenger side floor when the AC is on. I jacked the POS up and looked at the drain and I didn't see any obstructions, but there isn't water coming out. Instead, it's pissing all over the inside of the car. So would it be safe to blow compressed air into the drain tube to try to unclog it? Thanks in advance.

 
Rep Power: 119

 
Rep Power: 211

Shop vac + DIY extension to not lose suction.

 
Rep Power: 119

The blower motor in my 2005 Civic seems to be performing poorly lately. By that, I mean it's not moving as much air as it should. I started by checking the cabin air filter, and it was clean. I then checked the voltage at the blower motor with the engine running and the fan on high. At the battery, the voltage was 14.5, but at the blower motor, the voltage is 10.4. That is not acceptable. I checked the voltage drop across the blower motor resister, and it is less than 100 milivolts, which is acceptable. I also noticed that the entire length of wire is quite hot, almost too hot to touch. So my question is how do I know if the wiring is bad, or if the blower motor is bad and drawing too much current, therefore causing a voltage drop? I checked the current draw with my current clamp, and it's drawing 17-18 amps on high. Is that normal, or is that too much? Thanks.

 
Rep Power: 119

 
Rep Power: 119

This issue has been going on since before the AC started backing up. I checked for voltage drop at the transistor, and it is under 100 milivolts. Is 17 to 18 amps too high? Basically, I'm not sure if the blower motor is drawing too much power, or if the wiring is bad. Any suggestions?

 
Rep Power: 119

I tried a standard o2 sensor, and it still sets the P0135 code. If I jumper the o2 sensor heater relay to force the heater on, the P0135 code is replaced with a P0132 code. Maybe the wiring is different? Any ideas?

 
Rep Power: 119

Yesterday, my car wouldn't move at all from a stop. It acted like it was in neutral. Then D4 started flashing, and a P0730 code was set. I put the shifter in 2 and started out. However, the car lurches and doesn't want to move in 3rd gear, so I have to get up to 45 or so in 2nd gear and skip straight to 4th. Once it's moving in 4th gear, it does fine. Is it safe to drive it this way temporarily, and is it likely to completely fail and strand me? Thanks.

 
Rep Power: 519

ALL you changed was the ECM?
Apparently it doesn't like being in your car.


Did the old ECM set codes like this, or was it too far gone to be able to recognize faults?


You may want a good wiring diagram for the car the ECM came from, and a parts catalog ........maybe you can look up sensor applications in an online NGK or DENSO worldwide catalog?

 
Rep Power: 119

All I changed was the PCM. I didn't get a harness because I was told I could not use a JDM engine harness because it's right hand drive, so the wires won't reach. Is that true? The old PCM didn't set upstream o2 sensor codes, but I don't know if it would set codes if there was a problem with an o2 sensor since it barely worked. Great idea to look up the sensor in a global catalog BTW. Then I'll at least know which sensor I need to use. I called Honda to see if they knew whicch sensor I needed, but they never heard of a Honda Stream, and they couldn't look it up.

 
Rep Power: 519

F if I know. I fix LHD cars here. Honda doesn't sell RHD cars here. (but some are actually built here and shipped to other countries) Right. Because we would never ever see that car in this country.

 
Rep Power: 119

 
Rep Power: 211

Lol.


With all the CEL codes D17's car throws he should affectionately name it Code Blue: https://www.medicinenet.com/script/m...ticlekey=59953


D17...Jim Morrison has a diagnoses for your transmission:

 
Rep Power: 119

So here's the problem: I need to change my trans, but I need to get it done quickly. I would like to pull the trans out the top, but that doesn't look possible to me unless I pull it with the motor. So I guess I have to take off the subframe and drop it out the bottom. But I don't have a lift and a transmission jack, and I'd really rather not drop the transmission on my head. I'm thinking that pulling the motor and trans out the top as one piece may be the easiest. Any ideas? How would you do it? Thanks in advance.

 
Rep Power: 223

I pulled my 5 speed out the top, just had to remove the water passage on the block, not hard.

Otherwise if you want to go out the bottom you can loosen the subframe bolts and that will give you enough clearance.

Or if you have access to a cherry picker and feel like disconnecting all kinds of stuff then pull the engine and trans together.

​​​​

 
Rep Power: 119

Will an auto come out the top too?

 
Rep Power: 223

Should, don't think they're much bigger, just a lot heavier

 
Rep Power: 119

Thanks, maybe that'll work then.

 
Rep Power: 123

Personally, i would pull the engine.
You should be able to pull it out in under 4 hours.

Everything is so much easier to work on with the engine out...it saves your knuckles and having to watch your vocabulary.

 
Rep Power: 119

So you would suggest pulling the engine and trans as one piece? Seems easy enough.

 
Rep Power: 123

Yes, pull all at one time.

Don't be scared of the wiring harness...Honda did a good job of only allowing enough wire to reach each sensor/plug. lay it over the passenger fender.

Here's the list of ancillary things i would remove before pulling the engine:
All the plastic intake crap...this is a given.
alternator
header
Battery
Pull radiator out for the extra bit of room...this also allows easier passage to remove the 4 ac bolts.
Unhook AC but leave it in the car.

 
Rep Power: 119

Thanks a lot. I was just going to unhook the harness at the PCM and pull it through the firewall. Is there a reason to not?

 
Rep Power: 123

It's a pain in the buttocks....
It's easier to just lay the complete harness over the fender.

 
Rep Power: 119

Pulling the harness through the firewall? I've done that before, it takes about 5 minutes.