Wankenstein

I'll let Ezone or other longtime Honda mechanics answer that one. I've owned two D16Y8's and my mom has a D17. I like them both and would say based on my experience they are both solid engines and easy to work on. Never owned a K-series so I cannot opine on them. Oh, almost forgot..I do own a Honda pressure washer and it's never failed to start or run over the past ten years.

D17VTECPOWER

iTrader: (1)

Thank you. You're right that my car never sees "real" cold. I now live in Tennessee, so I hardly see "real" cold. So basically, you're saying that where the oil is between the marks doesn't matter much, as long as it is between the marks? I am probably overthinking this.

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

You're most definitely overthinking it, but at least you're asking the questions to further educate yourself.

Stick with the 3.7qts as laid out in the user manual and call it a day.

D17VTECPOWER

iTrader: (1)

Ok, thank you.

ezone

Dude checks his own oil! Thar puts him far ahead of 98% of the motoring public (appliance users).

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

wait, you're supposed to check oil level? /s

All kidding aside, you're terrifyingly right with that remark x_x

ezone

I don't check the oil in my Civic or the GFs Fit. Yet.

OK I checked oil in my car on Saturday just before I changed it.
I checked the Fit around halloween (MM=50%)and I figured it was fine to go until the wrench light comes on.

My car just turned 30k (6 years), and the Fit just rolled 30k on my rebuild (2 years).


I check oil in the truck and the bike a lot though.

D17VTECPOWER

iTrader: (1)

I guess better to obsess about the oil level than to ignore it!

dsm482

solid rike a rock..
i clocked 315k miles and purrs like a kitten.. my tranny just lost reverse is slower, but forward gears are going fine.. I dont know why, because i thought reverse is the one at least not used that much..

I can attest to some durability parts and i have the data to back it up.
original water pump still on it.., original timing belt tensioner, hasnt failed yet.. though i might change it this spring 315k miles, i been checking it once a year but has to be close to failure..
i finally have slight burn of oil due to oil rings stuck, but compression is 210 in all..
and leakage test is fine. **** i can just take them out and clean them and still get 200,000k.

headgasket let go on mine at 258,000 miles.
still have original exhaust all of it, and I live in upstate NY Rochester where is a snow salt belt state. body has few rust spots nothing major..
paint is peeling somewhere clear coat..

what else i have stats ask me i probably can give you aproximate lasting times of OEM.



you must have done something, or something happened.. what was the failure?
honda has one of the strictist quality control like toyota and ****...

Wankenstein

Honda engines aren't rated in horsepower...they are rated in godzilla power.

D17VTECPOWER

iTrader: (1)

Impressive! My OEM water pump failed at 110K miles and almost severely overheated my engine, my timing belt tensioner seized up and tore the belt off at 115,000 miles, luckily no damage was done, and then the engine blew up on the highway for no reason at 120K. Maybe I just got a dud engine, since the rest of the car is rock solid. I just replaced my original front struts, tie rod ends and control arm bushings as a preventative at 230K miles, and I replace my “lifetime” fuel filter at 100K mile intervals. The second time I replaced the fuel filter, I changed the fuel pump too as a preventative since it had 200K on it and I don’t like getting stranded. Transmission is original and doing great for now, but I am not expecting it to last much longer. I did a fluid drain and fill on it every 30K miles, and I always used Valvoline Import Synthetic fluid in it.

D17VTECPOWER

iTrader: (1)

I’ll upload pictures of the failures later. A rod blew up, it spun most of the bearings and a piston broke. Also, did your head gasket fail because the engine overheated?

Wankenstein

Did your regular maintence include valves adjustment?
Did it ever overheat or head gasket breach prior to rod/bearings damage?

D17VTECPOWER

iTrader: (1)

I adjust the valves every 50K miles and it never severely overheated before it exploded. Once it got to 235 degrees when the water pump failed, but I immediately stopped before anything was damaged. And no, the head gasket didn't fail before it exploded.

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

what makes you believe no damage done?

D17VTECPOWER

iTrader: (1)

I meant to say "almost" severely overheated the engine since I almost didn't notice the temp. And I highly doubt that a timing belt tensioner issue that didn't cause the valves and pistons to hit would cause the pistons, rods and bearings to fail 5K miles later.

Wankenstein

Did you purchase the car new or used?
If used, was the head gasket ever breached or engine overheated?

What I'm getting at is if there was ever a scenario in which anti-freeze mixed with oil and coated the engine internals for an extended period it could cause expedited engine wear and possibly lead to the damage you mentioned.

D17VTECPOWER

iTrader: (1)

I bought the car used from a friend that works at Enterprise rentals with almost 15K miles on it. It was previously used as a rental car, so it was probably taken care of pretty well. I have no reason to believe that it was ever abused or overheated before I bought it.

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

anywhere between the marks.

D17VTECPOWER

iTrader: (1)

I think that there is enough of a safety margin that the engine could be safely run with the oil level slightly overfilled or slightly under filled without causing damage. My friend ran his Civic 2.5 quarts low on oil by accident with no ill effects.

Colin42

For now...

That is way too low. That will cause damage, especially if done repeatedly for long periods of time

D17VTECPOWER

iTrader: (1)

I never said it's a good idea, I said that he got away with it.

Colin42

The part in red implies that you do

D17VTECPOWER

iTrader: (1)

2.5 quarts is NOT 'slightly". "Slightly" would mean 1/4 to 1/2 quart IMO.

D17VTECPOWER

iTrader: (1)

I have heard that copper spark plugs are far superior to platinum and iridium in performance, even though they have to be changed more. Is there any truth to that? I don't mind changing copper spark plugs more often if they perform better. So do copper spark plugs actually make a better spark than platinum or iridium? Thanks.

Wankenstein

Allow this to "Advance" your knowledge base: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/r/...en-spark-plugs

Don't think you can find copper plugs in the recommended NGK line for your 7th gen..but, I could be wrong. Honda's are very particular with spark plug manufacturer brand as well.

D17VTECPOWER

iTrader: (1)

Auto parts stores would much probably rather sell expensive spark plugs, so they will say that cheaper plugs suck. Also, the platinum spark plugs that are recommended might be recommended because they last the longest, even if they do not perform the best. The "average" person would probably prefer longevity to performance.

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

You're not gonna notice enough of a difference to matter. Copper, while it'll conduct electricity better, will wear down far too quickly. Iridium being a hard metal will last longer, but they're pricey. Back when I was looking up spark plugs for turbo (was boosted in my 2002 for a hot minute), Denso Iridium IK22's were the go-to plugs for boosted D17s. Installed those in 2007, and only did one more spark plug change (to NGK iridiums) after that. I think I paid $30 for 4 of the IK22's and $25 for the NGKs.

D17VTECPOWER

iTrader: (1)

So copper spark plugs don't perform any better than iridium?

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

General consensus in the internet world is don't use copper on distributorless ignition systems. They'll wear out far too quickly.

Honeywell is a rather large company. In the aftermarket world, they're known for Garrett turbochargers.

From the link The Great Mr. Dong provided

From another random link found while googling