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Re: Electrical problems after heater core failure.
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Rep Power: 118 What is the benefit of aluminium control arms?,
I need new bushings in my rear lower control arms, there is literally almost no rubber left. So my question is if there would be a benefit to getting new aluminium control arms that have poly bushings preinstalled instead of replacing the bushings in the OEM steel control arms. I presume that the aluminium control arms are a little lighter. I can get a set of aluminium control arms for $80, so if there is a benefit, I am going to replace the whole control arms instead of screwing with bushings. Thanks.
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Rep Power: 118 Re: Electrical problems after heater core failure.
UPDATE: I unplugged and cleaned all the connections behind the dash. Then I removed the very wet PCM, took its circuit board out, and sprayed it down with electronics cleaner. I let everything dry, and reassembled it. After I reinstalled the PCM, everything is back to normal. Thanks for your help!
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Rep Power: 118 What size fuse do I need?
About a year ago, I put my battery in the trunk. It’s an Optima Yellowtop D34 if it matters, and I used 2 gauge copper welding wire. It just occurred to me that I probably should have a fuse on one of the battery cables for safety. But I’m not sure what amperage fuse I would need. So what amperage fuse do I need? I am thinking I will put my amp clamp around one of the battery cables and measure the amperage the starter draws while someone is cranking the engine, and get a fuse a little larger than the amperage the car pulls from the battery when its cranking. Is that a good idea? Thanks.
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Re: What size fuse do I need?
Before you get yourself into a basket again, you should follow a wiring diagram to understand for yourself which circuits the 80 amp fuse actually covers.
There was never a fuse on the big cable for the starter. The starter is the largest power consumer in the car, and needs all the current flow it can possibly get.
The starter might pull well over 200 amps upon initial engagement (engine @0 rpm, starter motor @0 rpm) then settle down to 100-120a during cranking.....and I've seen failed starters pull over 600 amps.
There was never a fuse on the big cable for the starter. The starter is the largest power consumer in the car, and needs all the current flow it can possibly get.
The starter might pull well over 200 amps upon initial engagement (engine @0 rpm, starter motor @0 rpm) then settle down to 100-120a during cranking.....and I've seen failed starters pull over 600 amps.
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Rep Power: 118 Re: What size fuse do I need?
Before you get yourself into a basket again, you should follow a wiring diagram to understand for yourself which circuits the 80 amp fuse actually covers.
There was never a fuse on the big cable for the starter. The starter is the largest power consumer in the car, and needs all the current flow it can possibly get.
The starter might pull well over 200 amps upon initial engagement (engine @0 rpm, starter motor @0 rpm) then settle down to 100-120a during cranking.....and I've seen failed starters pull over 600 amps.
There was never a fuse on the big cable for the starter. The starter is the largest power consumer in the car, and needs all the current flow it can possibly get.
The starter might pull well over 200 amps upon initial engagement (engine @0 rpm, starter motor @0 rpm) then settle down to 100-120a during cranking.....and I've seen failed starters pull over 600 amps.
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Rep Power: 102 Re: What size fuse do I need?
did you ever see the inside of a MEGA fuse?
all that 2awg welding cable, bottlenecked into this:
i usually add a bit of solder to at least help widen the bottleneck. solder has such a low melting point that i doubt it increases the amperage rating much. just makes me sleep better because these things keep me up at night.
a better option than an 80A fuse would be 100A, due to the length and thickness of the cable. my wire size chart lists 95-115 as the correct size for 2awg wiring. a 100A circuit breaker would be better yet if you can swing it. you'll be able to reset it and it'll have a bit more of a path for your electric to flow vs than what you see inside the fuse.
all that 2awg welding cable, bottlenecked into this:
i usually add a bit of solder to at least help widen the bottleneck. solder has such a low melting point that i doubt it increases the amperage rating much. just makes me sleep better because these things keep me up at night.
a better option than an 80A fuse would be 100A, due to the length and thickness of the cable. my wire size chart lists 95-115 as the correct size for 2awg wiring. a 100A circuit breaker would be better yet if you can swing it. you'll be able to reset it and it'll have a bit more of a path for your electric to flow vs than what you see inside the fuse.
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Rep Power: 518 Re: What size fuse do I need?
a better option than an 80A fuse would be 100A,
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Rep Power: 518 Re: What size fuse do I need?
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Rep Power: 118 Re: What size fuse do I need?
did you ever see the inside of a MEGA fuse?
all that 2awg welding cable, bottlenecked into this:
Attachment 112160
i usually add a bit of solder to at least help widen the bottleneck. solder has such a low melting point that i doubt it increases the amperage rating much. just makes me sleep better because these things keep me up at night.
Attachment 112161
a better option than an 80A fuse would be 100A, due to the length and thickness of the cable. my wire size chart lists 95-115 as the correct size for 2awg wiring. a 100A circuit breaker would be better yet if you can swing it. you'll be able to reset it and it'll have a bit more of a path for your electric to flow vs than what you see inside the fuse.
all that 2awg welding cable, bottlenecked into this:
Attachment 112160
i usually add a bit of solder to at least help widen the bottleneck. solder has such a low melting point that i doubt it increases the amperage rating much. just makes me sleep better because these things keep me up at night.
Attachment 112161
a better option than an 80A fuse would be 100A, due to the length and thickness of the cable. my wire size chart lists 95-115 as the correct size for 2awg wiring. a 100A circuit breaker would be better yet if you can swing it. you'll be able to reset it and it'll have a bit more of a path for your electric to flow vs than what you see inside the fuse.
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Rep Power: 142 Re: What size fuse do I need?
I think your main problem is this sentence right here. Why on earth did you put the battery in the trunk? Did you listen to some idiots that work on german cars or did you listen to idiots with rear wheel drive cars? Put it back in the proper place and don't worry about rethinking Honda's very well thought out wiring systems.
The big reason people would relocate the battery to the trunk 40 years ago was to get it away from the heat of the big V8s of the day and to help with weight transfer. Do you want more traction on your rear drive wheels in a civic? Have you been told that a rear drive conversion was a good idea and you need weight on the rear wheels? Weight in the back of a front drive car is fairly well pointless.
You want a realistic answer? The fuse to properly protect the car and still supply power to the starter would be large enough to allow the cable to arc weld the cable and still not blow the fuse. Maybe you should spend some time reading how rear mounted batteries are protected in NHRA approved setups.
The big reason people would relocate the battery to the trunk 40 years ago was to get it away from the heat of the big V8s of the day and to help with weight transfer. Do you want more traction on your rear drive wheels in a civic? Have you been told that a rear drive conversion was a good idea and you need weight on the rear wheels? Weight in the back of a front drive car is fairly well pointless.
You want a realistic answer? The fuse to properly protect the car and still supply power to the starter would be large enough to allow the cable to arc weld the cable and still not blow the fuse. Maybe you should spend some time reading how rear mounted batteries are protected in NHRA approved setups.
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Rep Power: 118 Re: What size fuse do I need?
Better weight distribution and more room under the hood. My Optima battery weighs nearly 50 pounds, and that’s a lot of weight to have over the front of an already front heavy car. That’s about 2% better weight distribution. The car corners noticibly better with the battery in the trunk. I also like having the extra space under the hood. Taking out the battery and the battery tray also made a lot more room under the hood.
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Rep Power: 518 Re: What size fuse do I need?
Better weight distribution and more room under the hood. My Optima battery weighs nearly 50 pounds, and that’s a lot of weight to have over the front of an already front heavy car. That’s about 2% better weight distribution. The car corners noticibly better with the battery in the trunk.
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Rep Power: 102 Re: What size fuse do I need?
i actually had the one pictured on my mustang for a few years without it blowing, which suprised me.. it's supposedly a "slow blow" so maybe that helps? when i relocated the battery to the trunk(since in a rwd drag car) i was terrified to just have a thick power cable from a 600a battery running to the front. the car is shakey and violent so over time everything either chafes, loosens, or just falls off. the wimpy fuse was the best do on short notice
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Rep Power: 518 Re: What size fuse do I need?
i actually had the one pictured on my mustang for a few years without it blowing, which suprised me.. it's supposedly a "slow blow" so maybe that helps? when i relocated the battery to the trunk(since in a rwd drag car) i was terrified to just have a thick power cable from a 600a battery running to the front. the car is shakey and violent so over time everything either chafes, loosens, or just falls off. the wimpy fuse was the best do on short notice
It's not about the melting point of the solder, (because now your solder is effectively a shunt)...... it's about the amount of current that can flow through it (the critical part of the fuse PLUS the solder glob) before it gets hot enough to melt both parts and open the circuit.
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Rep Power: 118 Re: What size fuse do I need?
Your solder blob upped the amperage capacity of the fuse significantly higher than the stamped rating.
It's not about the melting point of the solder, (because now your solder is effectively a shunt)...... it's about the amount of current that can flow through it (the critical part of the fuse PLUS the solder glob) before it gets hot enough to melt both parts and open the circuit.
It's not about the melting point of the solder, (because now your solder is effectively a shunt)...... it's about the amount of current that can flow through it (the critical part of the fuse PLUS the solder glob) before it gets hot enough to melt both parts and open the circuit.
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Rep Power: 118 How do I install head studs with the head on?
I am going to install ARP head studs, but without removing the head. My question is how do I do it? I emailed ARP, and they said to change the bolts one at a time in the factory sequence. They said to start by torquing the nuts to 40 ft lbs, and then torque them all to 60 ft lbs in the factory sequence once they are all in. Does that make sense? It does to me, but I'm not sure. Thanks.
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Rep Power: 209 Re: How do I install head studs with the head on?
I am going to install ARP head studs, but without removing the head. My question is how do I do it? I emailed ARP, and they said to change the bolts one at a time in the factory sequence. They said to start by torquing the nuts to 40 ft lbs, and then torque them all to 60 ft lbs in the factory sequence once they are all in. Does that make sense? It does to me, but I'm not sure. Thanks.
