Rep Power: 368

the advantage of increasing the rear is based on changing the balance of the suspension. Increasing the front will simply negate the advantage and make the car understeer hopelessly again.

I went as far a removing the front bar. I really did not need it.

 
Rep Power: 119

Did you notice any difference when you did?

 
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So I made a box for it and got a ship estimate and it was rather high so I am going to try and reduce the size of the box as I think that is the issue. The UPS store considered it oversized.

Will you want signature verification?

 
Rep Power: 368

much less understeer (it will still understeer, fate of FWD)
faster on corners
but faster does not mean comfortable. car will roll more on the front, rear wheel will lift (if you use left foot braking, ABS will go nuts with the lifted wheel).

but got at the least 1 second faster in a 70 second course. stop watch does not lie
I am using left foot braking a whole lot less now than before
I have two miatas, which are famous for roll in corners, but they are fast regardless of the driver feeling.

 
Rep Power: 512

Lol, I'm so glad I work for a place with shipping. Strut bar cost me less than $20 to ship. lol

My old headlight retro went to sdaidoji. Should've cost me almost $50 to ship, ended up costing just over $20

 
Rep Power: 512

****, I had oversteer in my setup in my 02. If I pushed it hard enough, I could kick the *** end out, but just ever so slightly. It was a slight 4-wheel FWD drift with a slight fishtail at the exit. I could normally feel it about to happen and backed off just enough to keep it flat and true in turns

Neuspeed front upper bar, front lower x-brace, RSX 19mm rear sway, Tein SS-P coilovers with dampering set to 8/16 and 6/16 F/R (lower numerator = stiffer.. Or was it 4 and 6 f/r.. I don't remember), slight negative camber (-1 to -1.5 degrees) in the rear, 0 in the front

 
Rep Power: 119

Ok, that's fine. No rush. And I don't need signature verification, but thanks for asking though.

 
Rep Power: 368

and arrived finely well, Josh

huh, for some reason, I thought you had a DC sports bar, Golnat. (must have been because of the comment that it would be hard to change oil (neuspeed is nowhere close to the engine - mine is not )

 
Rep Power: 368

well, even with the eibach bars, pro springs and KYB shocks, I still spun in the slalom, mid-summer...

Driving the car still with stock front bar in Canadian winter, but with the rear progress bar, running -1.5 neg camber front, -0.5 rear (eibach pro, still KYB shocks) the car would nicely slide with the tail out in steady state cornering was fun. Nowhere close to the miata 4 wheel slides, though.
removed front bar since then, way more fun. Learned to not to bother with the higher front roll since then. It's fun when you feel the rear wheel floating and then landing back again (when the front understeer again).

 
Rep Power: 368

it's impressive when you see them going all around the corner in the pissing dog mode (famous setup for FWD)

 
Rep Power: 368

I think the stupidiest one i ever saw is this sentra, at Nashville superspeedway open track day:



this is that car, I took the picture



now, the fun part - someone else took this picture, at the same moment I took the picture (you can see me in the stands )



FWD - uses too much of front traction for steering/braking/cornering - front tires overloaded. So, you remove grip from the rear - lift one wheel - understeer gone.

soften front, stiffen rear

 
Rep Power: 368

another famous pissing dog - mini! He was at the slalom

 
Rep Power: 368

huh, i get carried away in suspension stuff... Smack me out of it, golnat! (woups, not gonna help, another suspension nuts...)

 
Rep Power: 119

Earlier today, my car started making a clicking sound on the way home. It sounded like the valve adjustment was suddenly way loose. Once I got home, I popped the hood and looked around to see where the noise was coming from. Since I don't have an upper timing belt cover, I saw the timing belt flapping and hitting the cam sensor, which is what was making the noise. The timing belt is now so loose that I could slide it off the cam gear with 1 finger. The frustrating thing is that I just replaced the timing belt, tensioner and water pump about 6 months ago, and the crappy Dayco tensioner has already failed. I guess it am lucky that I caught it failing before any damage was done. I ordered an OEM timing belt tensioner for $93 on Amazon, hoping that it will not fail too. However, I'm not sure that an OEM tensioner is much better since my factory tensioner locked up before 120K miles with no warning, tearing off the timing belt and bending the valves.

 
Rep Power: 519

6 months? Yaasss!
You got one of the good ones!

I hope that's not a Cheapazz ChinaZone knock off brand O.E.M., which is absolutely nothing like OEM.





This is why I now recommend it be replaced with every 100k timing belt service. (I used to let em go to 200k without fear, but now that they are much older time-wise it's a bigger issue)

Only problem is it blows the price of a simple timing belt job right out of the water and reinforces once again why certain people call us 'the stealership'.

 
Rep Power: 512

or save money and shop online. lol

 
Rep Power: 519

$93 for a genuine Honda tensioner is a decent price IMO. Far under msrp.

Amazon tho..... Probably better dealing directly with a dealer, even online.
86 bux at Majestic, plus shipping....

 
Rep Power: 512

I personally would've spent the extra few bucks shopping from an online parts dealer. Amazon can be shady sometimes, even if it's "sold by Honda"

 
Rep Power: 128

I got 320k miles on my original. I will replaced this spring when it warms up.
I think i got my use out of it.. OEM lasts holy ****

aftermarket on these is terrible.. you might as well buy OEM.. Any reputable aftermarket will cost the same.
I use Duralast chinese Autozone timing belt, that does hold up to 100k miles .
I wouldnt touch their tensioners

 
Rep Power: 512

I've used duralast belts before, and they did me well. Granted, I've only used them for accessory belts because I didn't want to take the chance with the timing belt.

Only other autozone part I've used was their reman'd alternator. After 3-3.5 years, freakin thing seized up on me. Good thing there's a lifetime warranty on it, but my transmission was making funky sounds after a seized alternator shut my car off (sounds were observed after replacing the alternator, of course). Good thing I was pulling into my driveway at the time. Autozone guy was staring at me in disbelief that I was able to leave his store, pull my alternator, and bring it into the store inside of 30 minutes, and even more in disbelief when the pulley would not spin no matter how much you tried. I told him the only thing that got it to move was my strap wrench. Kid seriously tried to put it in his alternator test rig. But I digress. Don't want to get too off topic there.

 
Rep Power: 0

 
Rep Power: 368

No we talking about anti roll bars

 
Rep Power: 244

They are saying it really depends on what you want out of the car and you are going to have to experiment to get the feel you like. I liked having the Progreess in the rear and stock sway in the front. I tried without the front connected and didn’t like how the steering felt (I’m not auto-x) so times are not important to me. Decide what you want and stiffen or loosen the end of the car that will make that happen. Also spring rates. I ran a stiffer rate in the rear to help it oversteer more.


Lol yea that’s not going to help. I have been reserved with the Fit though.

 
Rep Power: 309

....... Trying to save a quarter, on some HIGHLY critical items are we ?

OEM 100%

 
Rep Power: 210

theres no doubt in my mind the tensioner you have is poor quality, however i am interested to know exactly WHY the belt all of a sudden came loose?

did the spring come off?
did the spring "eat" a hole through the tensioners tab?

please update when you take it apart and find out,

i wouldn't blame the part before you find out exactly what happened....as installation error is still a possibility

 
Rep Power: 119

 
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Woah, golnat, you said stiffer rear to understeer more!

 
Rep Power: 244

lol darn!! I got my unders and overs backwards. Thanks, its fixed.


Get rid of the front drive eco car understeer!!!!!! Unless you like it, then keep it.

Good read:

http://racingcardynamics.com/understeer-and-oversteer/

 
Rep Power: 0

Thanks for the replies and the info. I feel like these cars (7th gen) suffer from understeer. Would you say so ? My '00 was much more responsive and lively (when steering). This one feels like the wheels are stuck to the pavement. So yeah I'd really like it if there were a way to make it a little more responsive and lively.

 
Rep Power: 368

yes, up to 00 used double wishbone, while the 01+ switched to MacPherson, so no dynamic Negative camber gains, while the rear gains massive negative camber. recipe for understeer.