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Old Apr 14, 2018
  #1441  
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Re: Mods for better AC performance

Originally Posted by D17VTECPOWER
My heater control valve doesn't close, so I installed a ball valve on the heater hose to shut off the heater in the summer.
That sounds like something you would do.
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Old Apr 14, 2018
  #1442  
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Re: How do I convert to EPS?

Originally Posted by D17VTECPOWER
My 2005 Civic has hydraulic power steering assist, and I would like to convert to electric. I am thinking that I might just find some way to rig an electric motor to spin the pump. Do you have any ideas on how to do this? Thanks.
Connect it to a Briggs & Stratton 5HP gas engine with electric start

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Old Apr 14, 2018
  #1443  
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Re: Mods for better AC performance

Originally Posted by Megalodong
That sounds like something you would do.
The cable broke, so what makes more sense: Install a valve, or tear the dash out to change the cable?
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Old Apr 14, 2018
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Re: Mods for better AC performance

Originally Posted by D17VTECPOWER
The cable broke, so what makes more sense: Install a valve, or tear the dash out to change the cable?
Well, if you like to adjust the climate from within the cabin I would say the answer is obvious. If you don't mind getting in and out of your car to do it manually then your current setup.

The cable doesn't keep the stock heater valve in place it only adjusts it. You can remove the climate control cable from the stock heater valve and it will stay in place wherever you set it. After-all, the stock heater valve is a ball-valve...unless 7th gen heater valves are different than prior models?

Last edited by Wankenstein; Apr 14, 2018 at 09:21 PM.
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Old Apr 14, 2018
  #1445  
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Re: Mods for better AC performance

Originally Posted by D17VTECPOWER
The cable broke, so what makes more sense: Install a valve, or tear the dash out to change the cable?




I'd fix it correctly.
Replacing the cable only takes about a half hour.
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Old Apr 14, 2018
  #1446  
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Re: Mods for better AC performance

Originally Posted by ezone
I'd fix it correctly.
Replacing the cable only takes about a half hour.
I thought the dash had to come out?
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Old Apr 14, 2018
  #1447  
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Re: Mods for better AC performance

Originally Posted by D17VTECPOWER
I thought the dash had to come out?
You could go that route if you wish.
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Old Apr 15, 2018
  #1448  
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Re: How do I convert to EPS?

Originally Posted by ezone
Connect it to a Briggs & Stratton 5HP gas engine with electric start

Um... No.
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Old Apr 17, 2018
  #1449  
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Which underdrive pulleys would you use?

I am just curious which underdrive pulleys you would be okay with using on a daily driven car. Here are my views on this, but I am very curious to hear your thoughts:

In my opinion, alternator underdrive pulleys is a definite NO for a daily driver. IMO, spinning the alternator slower is a bad idea. It will produce less power, and it will heat up more since less air will be flowing through it, which could burn it out quicker. Besides, the main drag an alternator creates is from magnetic resistance, not just from spinning, so an underdrive pulley would not help much.

I believe that the water pump should not be slowed down either, weather it’s a daily driver or a track only car. If the coolant isn’t moving fast enough, it may not remove enough heat from the engine as it flows through it. This could cause hot spots in certain areas, and depending on where the hot spots are, the temp gauge may or may not read hot. Hot spots can cause detonation and damage.

Power steering pump: IMO, this is something you could slow down if you are okay with heavier steering, but you don’t want to remove the power steering completely. It does not effect anything else, so I’d be okay with slowing it down. There aren’t really any risks, and if anything, the pump would live longer spinning slower.

AC compressor: I personally wouldn’t slow it down since it wouldn’t pump as well at a lower RPM, and my AC doesn’t work very well anyway. In my opinion, if you want to reduce the power draw on the engine from the AC, you would be better off turning the fan speed down so the compressor doesn’t draw as much power, or just turning it off when you want maximum power. However, if you don’t live in a hot climate, or you don’t mind less effective AC, this is a safe mod to do. If anything, the compressor may even live a little longer if it’s spinning slower.

Again, these are just my opinions, and this information is only applicable to street use. For a track only car, the PS and AC would probably be removed anyway. I still stand by my opinion on the water pump, and the alternator would be fine spinning slower since you’d be at high RPMs most of the time anyway. If you disagree with me on this, please let me know.
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Old Apr 17, 2018
  #1450  
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Re: Which underdrive pulleys would you use?

How do you plan on shrinking the size of a Honda WP pulley when it is driven by the timing belt? Custom tensioner with more travel?

You want to spin the AC compressor slower? You must not have ever looked at how those pulleys are designed. You can't shrink the compressor pulley any smaller than the size of the mag clutch contained inside the pulley. Custom size clutch mag, sounds pricey$$$$$$ And it is pretty easy to hit the AC button to turn off the system. A good DIY could likely figure out how to install an auto off for the AC at certain throttle applications (meaning above 50% throttle it turns off).

In my opinion I wouldn't put any of the items you mentioned on my car. You want less HP loss from accessories? Make more power. Start with the right model or start with the right powertrain. Trying to squeeze 10 more HP at the cost of hundreds of dollars on parts that are of questionable quality is futility.
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Old Apr 17, 2018
  #1451  
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Re: Which underdrive pulleys would you use?

Originally Posted by mcnoople
How do you plan on shrinking the size of a Honda WP pulley when it is driven by the timing belt? Custom tensioner with more travel?

You want to spin the AC compressor slower? You must not have ever looked at how those pulleys are designed. You can't shrink the compressor pulley any smaller than the size of the mag clutch contained inside the pulley. Custom size clutch mag, sounds pricey$$$$$$ And it is pretty easy to hit the AC button to turn off the system. A good DIY could likely figure out how to install an auto off for the AC at certain throttle applications (meaning above 50% throttle it turns off).

In my opinion I wouldn't put any of the items you mentioned on my car. You want less HP loss from accessories? Make more power. Start with the right model or start with the right powertrain. Trying to squeeze 10 more HP at the cost of hundreds of dollars on parts that are of questionable quality is futility.
I am talking about underdrive pulleys generally, not necessarily specific to Hondas.
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Old Apr 17, 2018
  #1452  
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Re: Which underdrive pulleys would you use?

Originally Posted by D17VTECPOWER
I am talking about underdrive pulleys generally, not necessarily specific to Hondas.
What I typed applies to all models generally, not necessarily specific to Hondas.
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Old Apr 17, 2018
  #1453  
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Re: Which underdrive pulleys would you use?

Originally Posted by mcnoople
What I typed applies to all models generally, not necessarily specific to Hondas.
“How do you plan on shrinking the size of a Honda WP pulley when it is driven by the timing belt? Custom tensioner with more travel?”
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Old Apr 17, 2018
  #1454  
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Re: Which underdrive pulleys would you use?

didn't you just put a smaller pulley on your alternator so it would spin faster, now you want to slow it down? technically going back to stock would be an under drive on your car.

_____
to get rid of the waterpump you could get rid of the vanes on the pump so it just freewheels like an idler.

they have electric waterpumps where you remove the thermostat and the waterpump varies pumping speed to maintain desired temperature.
http://www.jegs.com/p/Davies-Craig/D...77744/10002/-1
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/davie...ic-water-pump/

i thought about getting one for my mustang, but being a big fan of the KISS mentality, i decided that it was a bit over-engineered for my liking

_____
for the AC... you were just debating changing a bunch of stuff or even using explosive refrigerant to make it cooler, now you want to go the other way?
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Old Apr 17, 2018
  #1455  
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Re: Which underdrive pulleys would you use?

Originally Posted by RobertD
didn't you just put a smaller pulley on your alternator so it would spin faster, now you want to slow it down? technically going back to stock would be an under drive on your car.

_____
to get rid of the waterpump you could get rid of the vanes on the pump so it just freewheels like an idler.

they have electric waterpumps where you remove the thermostat and the waterpump varies pumping speed to maintain desired temperature.
http://www.jegs.com/p/Davies-Craig/D...77744/10002/-1
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/davie...ic-water-pump/

i thought about getting one for my mustang, but being a big fan of the KISS mentality, i decided that it was a bit over-engineered for my liking

_____
for the AC... you were just debating changing a bunch of stuff or even using explosive refrigerant to make it cooler, now you want to go the other way?
I am not considering doing this, I am just curious what others would do.
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Old Apr 17, 2018
  #1456  
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Re: Which underdrive pulleys would you use?

Originally Posted by D17VTECPOWER

“How do you plan on shrinking the size of a Honda WP pulley when it is driven by the timing belt? Custom tensioner with more travel?”
While it is true that this quote is directly related to Honda engines since it specifically states "Honda" there are many companies that have built many engines in the last few decades that use a timing belt driven water pump. So it remains how would you expect to go about changing the size of this pulley.

You read a lot of hype about changing pulley sizes to gain up to XX HP. Just bolt this part on and gain 10 hp, bolt on this part and gain another 12 HP, here is another 8 HP from switching to this air filter, use this oil for another 3 HP. You can spend thousands trying to chase a few HP. This is why it is better to learn how the system operate and how to get them to operate at peak designed efficiency before worrying about installing crap advertised in big shiny ads in some magazine.

I have a 18 year old co-worker. He is an idiot. He is a compete idiot. He won't stop talking about all the stuff he knows about that he has read in magazines. I wouldn't trust him to hold a spoon without hurting it or himself. He is the product of reading car magazines and listening to friends and relative that also have no clue. Car magazines can lead you astray quite easily.
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Old Apr 20, 2018
  #1457  
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Would another D series head fit our engines?

I am just wondering if a head from another D series engine, like from a D16Y8, would fit my D17A2. And if it would fit, would there be any power gain? I have heard that the head on the D17 is very restrictive, and I think that the head is what is holding back my performance. I’m not saying I’m going to do this, but I’m curious weather I could, and how much power I would gain by doing this.
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Old Apr 20, 2018
  #1458  
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Re: Would another D series head fit our engines?

I’m pretty sure someone has looked into it and the oil passages don’t line up. Not worth the money to make it work.

It’s “restricted” because it’s economy car!
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Old Apr 20, 2018
  #1459  
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Re: Would another D series head fit our engines?

test
report

otherwise, mental masturbation

if not willing to do, why ask?

bored? If yes, start fixing what's wrong in your car.

Or instead of sitting in front of computer masturbating your mind, start finding drawings and studying it instead of just comfortably asking in the internet. Sure way to get fat.
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Old Apr 23, 2018
  #1460  
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Electrical problems after heater core failure.

Yesterday, the heater core in my 2005 Civic exploded and soaked the interior in coolant. The area behind the glovebox was also soaked. I cleaned the interior, but now that the heater core exploded, something electrical isn’t right. The gauges don’t work, the engine light and D4 light is flashing, the battery light is on, the engine runs very poorly and doesn’t want to rev up, and my Scanguage won’t connect. I think the PCM isn’t happy about getting soaked with coolant. My plan is to remove the PCM, clean all the plugs behind the dash with electrical parts cleaner, remove the lid for the PCM, spray it out with electrical parts cleaner, let it dry, and reinstall everything. Is this the right thing to do, or do you have a better idea? Thanks for your help.
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Old Apr 23, 2018
  #1461  
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Re: Electrical problems after heater core failure.

Clean every connector, i would look at the pcm to see if any coolant got in before i just soaked it down in contact cleaner, hopefully nothing got fried
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Old Apr 23, 2018
  #1462  
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Re: Electrical problems after heater core failure.

Originally Posted by Colin42
Clean every connector, i would look at the pcm to see if any coolant got in before i just soaked it down in contact cleaner, hopefully nothing got fried
Thanks for your help. That’s what I’m thinking. I didn’t open the PCM yet, but everything behind the dash, including the PCM, got completely soaked, so coolant probably got inside the PCM too.
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Old Apr 23, 2018
  #1463  
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Re: Electrical problems after heater core failure.

The other strange thing that I frogot to mention is that the alternator is charging at about 20 volts.
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Old Apr 23, 2018
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Re: Electrical problems after heater core failure.

electrical parts cleaner is highly flammable, so be careful. have the battery disconnected, no smoking, no sparks, etc.

only mentioning it as i have caused a small fire using it before on an old fan motor. was not easy to extinguish
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Old Apr 23, 2018
  #1465  
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Re: Electrical problems after heater core failure.

Originally Posted by D17VTECPOWER
The other strange thing that I frogot to mention is that the alternator is charging at about 20 volts.
either the alternator is bad, (running that high of voltage can ruin stuff and cause all sorts of weird electrical problems)
or the pcm is telling the alternator to make that high voltage (not sure if that's possible)
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Old Apr 23, 2018
  #1466  
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Re: Electrical problems after heater core failure.

Originally Posted by RobertD
electrical parts cleaner is highly flammable, so be careful. have the battery disconnected, no smoking, no sparks, etc.

only mentioning it as i have caused a small fire using it before on an old fan motor. was not easy to extinguish
Very true, thanks for the warning.
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Old Apr 23, 2018
  #1467  
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Re: Electrical problems after heater core failure.

Originally Posted by Colin42
either the alternator is bad, (running that high of voltage can ruin stuff and cause all sorts of weird electrical problems)
or the pcm is telling the alternator to make that high voltage (not sure if that's possible)
I unplugged the alternator for now so I don’t damage anything and the voltage dropped, so I think the PCM is telling the alternator to put out too much power.
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Old Apr 23, 2018
  #1468  
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Re: Electrical problems after heater core failure.

Wet connectors everywhere! Liquid conducts electricity!
Clean and dry all thoroughly
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Old Apr 23, 2018
  #1469  
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Re: Electrical problems after heater core failure.

Originally Posted by ezone
Wet connectors everywhere! Liquid conducts electricity!
Clean and dry all thoroughly
And to make matters worse, the connectors inside the car aren’t water tight.
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Old Apr 23, 2018
  #1470  
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Re: Electrical problems after heater core failure.

Originally Posted by D17VTECPOWER

And to make matters worse, the connectors inside the car aren’t water tight.
Right.

How TF did you manage to blow out a heater core? I've not seen one do that here (yet).

Got a failure analysis done yet?

Was it running straight water for years? Cooling system rot/corrosion?
Pipe flex/breakage?
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