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Just the strut bar please. I do want a camber kit, but I'd rather get one with poly bushings. I've seen camber kits with poly bushings, so I'd rather just buy one with poly bushings than change them out. Thank you very much for the offer though!

 
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Not a deal breaker, but does the strut bar come with the caps for the nuts? Also, can I use the OEM nuts to fasten it, or do I have to buy different nuts and/or washers to fasten it down? Like I said, neither of these things in a deal breaker, I'm just curious. Thanks very much for your help!

 
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I used my oem strut nuts to mount it

 
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Thanks. Sorry for the stupid question. I've never installed a strut bar before, so I didn't know.

 
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OK. Thanks for the reply and info.

My tires are Firestone and I read that they are noisy, and definitely they are. Someone here suggested BF Goodrich.

I'm sure my bushings are worn out too.

Now, I'm actually thinking about selling my '03 and getting an '04 or '05 with Vtec but if I do that, I'll still do the mods suggested here. I enjoy driving and I'm always trying to find how to make a car handle better especially that these 7th gen don't handle as nice as the 6th ones.

Thanks again for the info.

 
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That's a great idea. That is how my RSX-S sway bar came.

 
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Any time. If you ever need anything else, feel free to ask me. I have Michelin Premier A/S tires, and I couldn't be happier with them. They were worth every penny. Also, FYI, I converted my 05 to VTEC, and it wasn't hard. I gained a lot of power too. If you want details on how I converted to VTEC, just let me know!

 
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I've heard good things about the Neuspeed strut bars, so I can't wait to put it on!

 
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Thanks again, D17. I really appreciate that. Nice to have helpful people around.

Yeah Michelin are good tires but I'm sure they're expensive too.

Man, I can't wait to get my hands on an '04/'05 Vtec Civic. I think they're beautiful cars with those aggressive looking headlights and alloys.

I'm not a mechanic but I love cars and enjoy working on my car -when I can and know how- but I don't know about conversion stuff or if it's something I can do, or at least do properly. It's probably better -and cheaper- to just buy a Vtec car -which I think comes with a sunroof too- but for the sake of knowledge, is it just swapping the heads, ECU ? What about the cat. converter? I know Vtecs have different cats and O2 sensors too.
No need for a detailed answer because like I said I'd probably just buy a Vtec trim but I'm just curious about the cat. convrt. and the O2 sensor part.

Been told -by some members here- to get a crower cam for an instant and considerable increase in HP, which I think I'll do eventually.

Thanks again.

 
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leave the light switch out of the explanation.

 
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Yea, the Michelin tires were $125 each IIRC. Worth every penny though! To convert to VTEC, you just have to swap to a VTEC head and do some wiring. You can either swap the ECU, use a VAFC, You just need a way to get power to the VTEC solenoid when you want VTEC on. It's not hard to swap the head on these engines. Even a beginner could swap the head within a day. Also, I have a Crower stage 1 cam in my engine, and it did help performance and gas mileage a bit. I didn't gain the 25-35 HP that people say you do, but it is definitely noticeable with the mods I have. I would suggest I/H/E before getting the cam though. You can't put a Crower cam in a non VTEC head, so you'd have to swap the head to use a Crower cam. As for the exhaust, you can use the stock exhaust if you use the stock manifold. However, the stock exhaust is too small for a VTEC motor, so using the stock exhaust will noticeably hold back the power benefit that you get with a cam or VTEC head. I used my stock exhaust for a while with the VTEC head, and it works fine. However, when I installed a header and cheap 2.25 inch Ebay exhaust, the engine really woke up. Throttle response was way better, and the engine ran way stronger, especially at higher RPMs. Huge difference. I can't think of anything else important that you need to know to do this swap, but if I do, I'll let you know. If you have any more questions, feel free to ask as always!

 
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you would need to dyno the car to be able to tell if you got the 25-35 WHP, seat of the pants butt-dyno is unreliable.

stock header with cat too close to the exhaust ports is the issue, not being too small.

 
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True. It didn't feel like 25-35 HP gain though.

 
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again, butt-dyno is unreliable

 
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Correct.

 
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Well I guess it really doesn't matter since you removed it from my post anyway.

 
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Not true. I had a D17A1 aftermarket catless header with the stock exhaust pipe, and it was still holding back my performance. Installing a larger exhaust pipe is what helped my performance the most.

 
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the stock EX header is not that different from DC header. bigger tubes, but the LX header is a whole lot more restrictive because of cat too close

also, tube ID is not that different - if you looking only into OD of tube, you get the wrong baseline.

 
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yes, i warned not to do it, after all.

 
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I don't see your problem with using a button or switch to activate VTEC, especially since I tried to change my ECU to a VTEC one and I couldn't. A switch or button is a simple, cheap and effective solution. Could you please explain to me why it's a bad thing?

 
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stay on topic or I'm gonna shut this down.

 
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1) Too distracting for drivers to switch it on/off
2) switch do not happen with RPM, it takes into account load on engine, RPM, etc. No human brain can do it efficiently. not even if you wire the sensors to yourself, you are not going to process it.
3) too ghetto - there are some that does not bother me, like pvc air intakes (no safety issues that i see there) but distractions during driving? we can't condone that in the forums.

want to keep using it? Fine. Try to spread this mis-information? Do not do it in this forums.
/discussion on this.

 
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Thank you for explaining. You are completely correct that the switch could be a distraction, depending on where it's installed. You are also correct that the change happens based on a lot of factors. But like I said, I tried to do it right by changing the ECU and I couldn't, so a switch was the best I could do.

 
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. Thanks again for the explanation, D17. I think it's just easier to get the Canadian Si (EX/US) model since it comes with the Vtec.

I think I need to start looking for an anti roll bar because it will probably be the first thing I'll do on the car.

 
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Ok, sounds good. I would offer for you to come take my Civic for a drive to see if you like the way it drives if you were in the Memphis area, but I'm sure you wouldn't want to come here from Canada to drive my car LOL. Anyways, if you ever need anything else, I'm here for you buddy!

 
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Thanks again, man. I appreciate it.

Maybe if you were in Cali since I'm planning a trip there.

So does it have to be this specific bar and 21mm ? Since I don't know anything about these things I want to make sure I'm getting the right fit. Are these off Acuras ? Do I have to buy anything else ? I see " sway bar links" and also bushings as part of the sway bar installation.

Thanks.

 
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OK. Thank you very much for the info.
So, I do need these extra parts.

Is there anything I can do to the front, or I shouldn't bother with that ? I don't want to spend a lot of money but maybe there's some inexpensive mod I can do to the front, unless the rear mod will be enough.

 
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