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Most cars nowadays have understeer from the factory. Less design liability that way in case of accidents

Its "well, he turned too fast"
vs.
"Well, the *** end kicked out on me"

Its more in depth than that, but basic gist

 
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understeer - you will keep looking into what you are gonna hit, completely fixated and incapable of doing anything
oversteer - you won't know what will hit the obstacle, because you will be spinning and incapable of doing anything

of course, this is the description of when you get into a terminal condition

 
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Counter steer and floor it. Lol

Understeer: pray

 
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right for FWD, don't do it in a RWD!!! (I have both, so need to switch driving styles between them)

 
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Sandro.. We're a forum for FWD vehicles. Duh.

 
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hey, i just commented on an AWD conversion!!!

 
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No problem man. We had a winter storm roll through the other day so it was delayed a bit. I’ll PM you my PayPal info so you can send some money. Once money is received I will ship it out.

 
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Ok cool. I sent you a PM for you to send me your email and name so I can send you a PayPal invoice. It seems easier that way.

 
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Yes I know it's the Macpersons are to blame for the crappy handling in these Civics. So, nothing can be done to improve that and the only thing we can do for any improvement is an anti roll bar on the rear suspension ? Damn. I feel like I'm driving in molasses. lol and as if the front wheels are dragging along instead of spinning. Oh well.

 
Rep Power: 119

Since my car was new, I noticed that the AC is not very effective when the car isn't moving. There is nothing wrong with the system, it just doesn't cool the car very well at idle when it's over 100 degrees and sunny with high humidity, and it never did. I am thinking that if I install a powerful fan on the front of the condenser that runs when the compressor is on to help cool the refrigerant, the system will work better at idle. Any thoughts on this? I think it's worth a try.

 
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Pretty much normal for that econobox.
What colors is your car? When it's 100F outside, the interior of a black car with black interior can reach 190F and more. It takes a LOOOOOONG time to cool that down.

Do both radiator fans work?

The AC system is pretty undersized in these small cars......figure out how to improve that instead

 
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The car is dark blue and the interior is dark grey, so the car does get quite hot here in Memphis. Window tint would probably help a lot. I insulated the aluminium tubes on the low pressure side of the system, which helped a tiny bit. Both fans work. I replaced the condenser a couple years ago because it got hit by a rock and leaked, and I replaced the TXV, compressor and all the seals while the system was open too, so the condenser, compressor, and TXV are all new. Like I said, the system works as it was designed to, but the system never worked very well at idle. But if I mist the condenser with water, the AC works much better at idle, so I think a fan on the front of it to help push air through would help.

 
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Wouldn't more airflow through the condenser improve the AC system?

 
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Set up a water spray system to hose the front of the condenser at stops ??

 
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I've thought about it. People do that with their intercoolers. However, I would rather just install an extra fan than have one more thing to worry about. Not to mention that mineral buildup would become a problem if I didn't use distilled water, which would add cost. Besides, I do believe that you were the one that criticized my VTEC switch because it was a distraction LOL.

 
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[citation needed]

 
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Sorry. I just checked. You didn't say that, that was sdaidoji.

 
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Is there even room for it?

Did you replace with an aftermarket condenser, or OE? Sometimes aftermarkets aren't as efficient as OE and/or don't have the same capacity as OE.

That was my thinking as well.
Would be inconvenient af though.

 
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Yup, there's room for a fan. As for the parts I used, I replaced the TXV with a new OEM part, and the compressor and condenser is made by Denso. The condenser is actually probably a little more efficient than OEM because it's not painted.

 
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So the voltage problem continued to get worse until the alternator couldn't keep the battery charged under load, and now it's completely dead. I just bought a used OEM alternator on Ebay with 65K miles and a 1 year warranty for $35 shipped, so we'll see if it's any better. Thanks for your help.

 
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My 1 year old POS Denso alternator locked up, so I've been removing my battery and putting it on a charger daily until the replacement alternator arrives. I took the belt off since the alternator locked up. The new/used alternator should be here the 19th. The battery is an Optima yellow top D34, so it's a deep cycle and it won't be damaged. I am driving 60 miles daily with no accessories on besides my Scanguage, and all my lighting is LED, so it doesn't draw much power. The battery still has plenty of charge left when I get back home, and I have an extra fully charged battery with me just in case I get stuck in traffic or something. Is this safe? I'm worried that something may be damaged from running on too little voltage. Is something getting damaged a valid concern? I know I won't get stranded, so is doing this for another week until the replacement alternator comes OK? Thanks.

 
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If you plan on keeping the car consider buying a used (Honda OEM) alternator from a local junkyard ($30) as a spare.

It's pretty easy to break-off the positive terminal threaded stud during removal or installation.

 
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thought you discussed it here?

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...e-too-low.html

 
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It's here! I just got it on. Thanks a lot GolNat! I think it looks pretty awesome. What do you think? Also, is there a way for me to give you a good review as a seller?

 
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Awesome!! It looks great!!!

Yes I just sent you iTrader rating so I think you can respond with that. If not go under my username and you will see iTrader rating.

 
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Okay, thank you. I gave you a positive rating. You are a pleasure to do business with!

 
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I just installed the Neuspeed front strut bar I bought from Golnat, and I love it. The car feels less bouncy, and the steering feels more responsive. The ride actually seems better too. My question would be what other chassis braces could be useful? There are rear lower tie bars, rear strut bars, and front lower tie bars. Is any of this actually useful? Thanks.

PS- I did search, and I read "suspension basics", and I didn't find an answer.

 
Rep Power: 244

The only other one worth it to me would be a rear Strut Brace. I had a subframe Brace from Progress and I don’t think it did much other then look cool. It was mounted onto an already solid piece of metal.

Problem with rear upper bar is it takes up trunk space!

There was a subframe Brace too but I’m not sure how well it worked.