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I have more info on the P0135 code. I used a paper clip and I jumped the relay for the o2 sensor heater as a test, and the code went away. However, after I ran it for a couple of minutes with the relay jumped, it set a P0132 code (O2 Sensor Circuit High Bank 1 Sensor 1). I think that the car that the JDM PCM came out of has a standard o2 sensor instead of an A/F ratio sensor like my car has. So I think I need to get a standard o2 sensor from an 01-03 Civic. Is this a reasonable presumption?
Be careful with that. The number one cause of fried ECUs in my era fords is people using the wrong the o2 harness. It fries the sigrtn trace off the board. Similarly most pre 2005 chrysler PCMs I've seen replaced is due to the o2 driver failing.
Recommend you disconnect your paperclip and see if that code goes away and proceed with extreme caution with what you're doing
Be careful with that. The number one cause of fried ECUs in my era fords is people using the wrong the o2 harness. It fries the sigrtn trace off the board. Similarly most pre 2005 chrysler PCMs I've seen replaced is due to the o2 driver failing.
Thanks for the warning. I had no idea that it could fry the PCM. Is there any way to find out what the correct sensor for a JDM 2004 Honda Stream is? I tried looking it up on amazon.co.jp, but I had no success.
Last edited by D17VTECPOWER; May 21, 2018 at 08:52 AM.
Re: Is manually shifting an automatic transmission safe?
Well, changing the PCM seems to have made it shift properly. With the old PCM, it upshifted at about 5000 RPM when I floor it, but with this one, it revs all the way to redline before it upshifts. Thanks for your help!
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Re: Is manually shifting an automatic transmission safe?
So what caused the PCM to burn out? I saw the pic with a black spot on it....trace circuits to see what component(s) on the engine or trans may have caused it?
Re: Is manually shifting an automatic transmission safe?
Originally Posted by ezone
So what caused the PCM to burn out? I saw the pic with a black spot on it....trace circuits to see what component(s) on the engine or trans may have caused it?
I didn’t get there yet. I need to put the circuit board from the new PCM into the case for the old one so it mounts properly, so when I have the board out, I’ll take a look and see if I can figure out exactly what fried.
Also, does anyone know exactly what P1713 means on a Honda? I can’t find much information on that code that applies to Hondas, so if anyone knows what it means, that would be great.
P0135 code try a narrowband o2 sensor from 01 to 03 civic and see what happens. I believed 2004 and 2005 civic uses a wideband o2 sensor.
P1713 Transmission range sensor
Does this happen when you move the lever to D2 only? What happens if you don't select D2 do you still get that code? I don't think the jdm market has D2 option.
Thanks for the information. Yes, it only sets a P1713 code of I put the shifter in 2. Also, if I put the shifter in D3, the D3 light doesn’t come on in the dash. But it shifts fine through all the gears. Maybe I should try putting the range sensor from my JDM trans on? What exactly does that code mean anyways?
I was looking at these two ecu and they are quite a differences between them component wise.
Yes, they are very different. I wonder what all those pieces do, especially the big black one at the top. Also, I don’t think that adjusting the range sensor would help since all the lights work with the USDM PCM. Thanks for your help though!
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Re: Info about installing a JDM PCM in a USDM car
P1713 Transmission range sensor
Does this happen when you move the lever to D2 only?
If this was strictly dealing with North American market cars, I'd guess the PCM is looking for an SLXA trans and you connected it to a BMXA trans. Or vise-versa, or whatever other types of trans they might use in other markets doesn't quite match what we have here.
But the code is not in the list of possible codes for that car here.
If this was strictly dealing with North American market cars, I'd guess the PCM is looking for an SLXA trans and you connected it to a BMXA trans. Or vise-versa, or whatever other types of trans they might use in other markets doesn't quite match what we have here.
But the code is not in the list of possible codes for that car here.
That sounds about right. I guess I’ll put in my SLXA trans when I have extra time. I’m not worried about it though since it drives fine.
This is something I've always wondered, and no one seems to know the answer to. Why are there coolant lines going to the throttle body and, on some cars, the intake manifold? Isn't the idea to keep the air intake as cool as possible so the air flowing through it doesn't pick up as much heat? And if they want the intake charge hotter, why don't they just design the air intake to suck air from closer to the engine? I bypassed the coolant going to my throttle body many years ago, and it runs fine without it. So why do they do this?
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Re: Why is coolant run through the throttle body?
Throttle Icing can happen in ambient temps well above freezing. Temperature drops significantly as air at atmospheric pressure passes through the throttle area and goes into a very low pressure area (vacuum). Add humidity and suddenly the throttle can become clogged with ice.
Laws of Physics, Gas laws, temperature changes as pressure decreases/increases
Throttle Icing can happen in ambient temps well above freezing. Temperature drops significantly as air at atmospheric pressure passes through the throttle area and goes into a very low pressure area (vacuum). Add humidity and suddenly the throttle can become clogged with ice.
Laws of Physics, Gas laws, temperature changes as pressure decreases/increases
The same jerk that scratched "F*** U COPZ" in my back bumper drained my oil and coolant overnight. This morning, I started my car, and about 10 seconds later, I noticed that the low oil pressure light was on. I immediately shut off the engine and checked the oil. It was completely empty! I jacked up the car and checked the plug, and it was in, but the crush washer was sitting on the ground. As I was refilling the oil, this jerk is laughing and said "It looks like your oil done run out!" as he was driving past. So "someone" drained the oil. I put the crush washer back on the plug, refilled the oil, and tried to drive it. But when I got on the highway, the engine quickly overheated since it had no coolant. I immediately stopped, let the engine cool, and filled the radiator with water. It's not making any bad noises and it's not running hot, but now the engine doesn't quite feel right. I can't explain it, maybe I'm just paranoid. So my question is if I would immediately know if something was damaged from this. I'm really worried now.
I've seen ice form with a 120F humid ambient temp before. Then again, that was a nuclear power plant, but still, it can happen. It formed far faster than it could melt. It was a pain in the *** to get those components back in operation given there was a 2" thick ice layer
i have a hard time believing this part of the story.....why the hell would they bother putting the plug back in?
Thanks. So could something have been damaged from idling for about 8-10 seconds with no oil? Also, to answer your question, I guess they put the plug back in so the remaining oil didn’t leave a puddle of oil on the ground to alert me that something is wrong.
