Rep Power: 222

hey gearbox

how about a DIY for a keyless engine start? I want to hook up a master switch that will kill ignition to the car without completely disconnecting the battery locked in the trunk so only I can get to it. Then in the center DIN where the radio used to be (i relocated my radio above the cup holder) I want to have a toggle switch to turn on the car and a push start button to start it. Ricer? yeah maybe. but i think it would be wicked cool for originality sake. Any ideas?

 
Rep Power: 811

well on the older cars i dont think you need to worry about any security systems, so its basically like hot wiring the ignition i guess. look at the diy for the engine start here for the 7thgen, but you prolly wont need to have the key in for it to start. thats only cause 01+ civic came with immobilizer system.

 
Rep Power: 222

sweet. Another quick ? What if I wanted to hook up my fogs, so they can only come on when I turn on the headlights. I can't wire it to the headlight power because I trip the fuse. Any suggestions as to what amperage fuse I should use or how I should wire this? This way when i kill the headlights the fog lights come off too. I'm tired of leaving them on and killing my battery.

 
Rep Power: 811

you should already have the fogs on a separate relay harness, unless you wired them straight to the battery on a big switch. if you already have a harness, you just tap the trigger wire to the headlight +12v wire. i have mine tapped to the park lights. how exactly did you wire up the fogs so i can give you more details...

 
Rep Power: 222

i have the power going to the battery and then to the oem toggle switch provided by honda when i bought the kit. Its OEM fogs not the walmart kind. I tried hooking the power up to the headlight power lead and I get two problems. First, the headlights won't come on unless the fog light switch is flipped (not a big deal i can just leave it on all the time) and two when the fogs do come on it trips the head light fuse.

 
Rep Power: 811

okay if its oem fogs, they should only work when the headlights are on to begin with. you need to make sure the harness "trigger" wire is hooked to the headlight wire, not the actual power wire that feeds the fogs from the battery. that will just overload the wiring and blow the fuse. im not too familiar with your wiring tho to know what that is without testing them all. for me, i just tested each wire at the fog light switch til i found the one that only gets hot when the headlight is on. then i rewired that to the park light so i can have them on with both park and headlight instead of just headlight.

 
Rep Power: 222

I break out the multi tester and give it a whirl. Thanks mr. box.

 
Rep Power: 0

Gearbox,
Will 2004 civic parts (headlights, a hood, a front bumper, and front fenders) fit onto a 2001 civic well? My buddy thinks this would be a cool mod, but I'm just worried that the parts won't fit right. What do you think?

 
Rep Power: 811

no they are different shapes, specifically the headlights. if you somehow managed to get the fenders, headlights, and bumper, you might be able to do it with a body shop's help, but its gonna involve custom work. no way would they all bolt together. some have done the hybrid bumper swap but that is within the same year of car with the newer headlights.

 
Rep Power: 0

What's the hybrid bumper swap?

 
Rep Power: 235

Actually there is a way to do this. Let me see if I can find the parts list needed for this.

Found it: http://www.7thgenhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7326

 
Rep Power: 811

thanks for the help

 
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Thanks for the link, that's awsome!!!

 
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If I use an 04 civic core support on my 01 civic for the front end conversion, would it all hook up right so I dont have to relocate the fender bolts?

 
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Hey Gearbox, I was wondering if you could tell me what kind of sealant to use on my oil-pan gasket? On the corners where it says to use it.

 
Rep Power: 0

Here's a link to a thread I started asking about a core support replacement, Speedfoos' reply should answer your question.

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...e-support.html

 
Rep Power: 811

for oil pan gasket, usually hi temp silicone is best. or you could get the honda specific stuff from handaaccessories.com maint section (hondabond)

http://www.handa-accessories.com/civmaint01.html

 
Rep Power: 811

for oil pan gasket, usually hi temp silicone is best. or you could get the honda specific stuff from handaaccessories.com maint section (hondabond)

http://www.handa-accessories.com/civmaint01.html

 
Rep Power: 0

Hello Gearbox
My Honda Civic EK CXI doesnt have a rev meter and i would like to install the whole gauge system to one with a rev meter. Do you think this is possible?
Thank you

 
Rep Power: 811

im not too familiar with that car. what year is it, and do other models from the same year have the rev meter as part of the gauges? if so, there is a good chance you can swap to the new one. i know with the 01-02 civics, you could swap in the EX cluster into a DX that did not come with rev meter.

 
Rep Power: 0

Thanks for your answer again. I saw that Permatex had a ton of different kinds, didn't know which one to get. One says it's made specifically for import autos where the bolts are spaced close together.

 
Rep Power: 811

permatex has a bunch of variety, just pick one that says for oil pan i guess and is hi temp.

 
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Got another question for you, actually two.

1. I am putting a header on my car ('02 LX sedan), can I replace the header studs(the ones going into the head) with bolts? I couldn't see a reason why not, except maybe more difficult installation.

2. Can I use stainless steel bolts, or nuts? Didn't know if they'd have some kind of reaction with the aluminum, or if they are strong enough.

Thanks for your patience and sharing your know-how.

 
Rep Power: 811

i guess, just make sure the thread pitch is the same. the studs may give you a hard time, you may need a lighter to heat them up and a vise to unscrew them. and some pb blaster

im not sure on the stainless, you want bolts that are high grade and usually those are the greenish yellow ones. the oem ones are not stainless.

 
Rep Power: 811

i guess, just make sure the thread pitch is the same. the studs may give you a hard time, you may need a lighter to heat them up and a vise to unscrew them. and some pb blaster

im not sure on the stainless, you want bolts that are high grade and usually those are the greenish yellow ones. the oem ones are not stainless.

 
Rep Power: 0

Actually I already got the studs out, what you do is thread one nut onto the stud, and then you thread another nut up to the first nut and tighten. Then you act like you're loosening the first nut, then the whole stud comes out.

I had to notch the nut in the middle, then split it with a punch because the nut rounded over.And I couldn't do it without cutting the stud a little, so I have to either replace the stud, or I thought bolts would have a nicer, cleaner look. Thanks man. I wish I knew who to ask about the stainless cause that would look way better.

 
Rep Power: 0

The threads are M8-1.25 in case you wanted to know.

 
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Can you tell me how to get info on removing and replacing my front fenders and bumper cover?
afields

 
Rep Power: 811

the bumper is easy, theres a diy in the 7thgen diy section for clearing headlights that also has bumper removal. open hood, pop off the 4 plastic clips holding the upper grill on, remove one screw from each side of the bumper where it meets the fender under the wheel well, then remove all the clips on the bottom of bumper. after that, the bumper should yank off from the sides. the fenders i havent done, but once the bumper is off you should be able to see where the fender attaches to the car body so you can remove the screws.

 
Rep Power: 0

Yeah, it's just seven or eight 10mm bolts. With a little cordless impact it takes like 2 min.