Rep Power: 229

Yeah, I thought about the security issues but with the remote starter I have installed, it disables all power to the ignition switch. The only thing I was thinking about was if I had it in valet mode, you can open and close the door and the ignition will still work. Well I did a little research and came across some companies that sell key fobs with the push button start and only work when you are within about 10 ft of the car.

Is there a better way to do this? Like, make my own transmitter and reciever so that I don't need to spend $400+ on just this small project? I thought about just getting an autozone button but they are crap and I would have to disable the valet mode altogether. Just throwing out ides here as I'm really looking forward to this mod. Maybe this one is just outta my price range. Thanks for your input so far gear.

 
Rep Power: 812

youre really better off just buying a car alarm with built-in remote start because it comes with all the precautions already like turning car off when you lower the ebrake, etc. any cheap solution will not last if you go with crappy parts.

 
Rep Power: 0

I finally got around to using the 50W ballasts I got from ebay seller yourhid and I noticed that when I first turn on my HIDs I get a loud short **BUZZT** sounding noise. The sound lasts less then a second and doesn't return. But I was wondering if you experienced anything similar when you used those ballasts?

 
Rep Power: 812

yeah the buzzing is normal, loud at first but after it warms up a minute later, the buzz becomes much quieter and you wont hear unless your face is next to the ballast.

 
Rep Power: 0

gearbox,
very nice of you to take questions this way.
can you impart some wisdom on a 95 EX (1.6 v-tec) that runs rough after it's warmed up? It's got new plugs, dist. cap, rotor, coil and a new fuel pump. It runs perfect when it's cold then starts getting rough at low rpms and around town when it's warm.
I posted the question to a new thread in the gen 1-5 section of the site.
First Honda for me and I love it.
Many thanks.
Bart

 
Rep Power: 812

yeah very common problem due to a dirty intake system. over time carbon will buildup in the throttle body and all the idle air sensors around it so that it restricts airflow. since the throttle is closed at idle, the only way to keep the engine running is the air going thru those small ports and sensors. best way to fix is to take apart the whole intake system, the air intake and filter box, then the throttle body and all the sensors bolted around or near it and the sensors on the intake manifold. anything that looks like you can spray carb cleaner into and remove carbon. you do not have to remove intake manifold, just the sensors around it. i did this to moms old 92 accord which had serious wheel shake issues at idle and low rpms, it made a huge difference and theres hardly any shake at all. you may need to reset the ecu once you put everything back together if you are still having jumpy idle. just warm up the car, turn off, unplug battery, reconnect, then start car and let it idle for 10 mins without pressing gas or using any accessories. turn car off and then back on and go for a drive, it should work great.

 
Rep Power: 0

gearbox,
thanks for the reply. i'll do what you suggested later this week when I have time. I just went out to see if I could get an error code from the OBD port but I have a three wire plug that fits the descriptions I 've read but everything I've read mentions a two wire plug?
Know anything about that?
THanks,
Bart

 
Rep Power: 812

95 was the change over year. most cars i think still used OBDI and after 95 they switched to OBDII. but im not exactly sure.

 
Rep Power: 235

Can you give a step-by-step process of changing out brake fluid? Im a little over the three years and would like to replace it. Thanks again gearbox, Ive tried searching but never found a SOLID answer.

 
Rep Power: 812

thats one thing im not good at. even some shops never get it right so ive decided to just take it in for those times where i have brake stuff needed. you just need one bottle of the honda fluid tho for a flush and most shops only charge around $50. i think its well worth it. thats one thing i wont touch on these cars are the brakes, esp not the drums lol what a nightmare.

 
Rep Power: 235

Alright thanks man, another random question, did you ever change the light color on the mirror button, cruise contol button, or sunroof button? I know you did to your dash, but wasnt sure about these buttons.

 
Rep Power: 812

i just recently did the mirror button only. soldered in two orange 5mm leds side by side with the top shaved down. and put the resistor on the power wire going to the switch. my cruise button is hidden behind the dash (so my fog light takes its place), and moonroof i havent done. i think just the mirror looks good by itself. having all the lights on distracts me while driving. the honda fog switch does not come apart and has the stupid green paint on the back, so i could not get the color to match and left it dark. and the moonroof is crazy hard because its so small. i did it once with blue leds but never again. and the switch still didnt press properly because of all the sliding parts and wires in the way. the cruise was easy tho, lots of space if you wanna do it. same with mirror, its just a matter of popping it open carefully (so the switches inside dont fall everywhere), pulling out the bulb, shaving down the plastic mount so the leds sit low, figuring out which pad is + and - using a multimeter with the open switch plugged in and dash light turned on, and then soldering the leds to the proper pad so the polarity is correct. then just putting in the resistor on the power wire going to the switch (use the multimeter again). be sure to use two leds so you get full coverage of the mirror text. otherwise only part of it will be lit. and i had to add quite a large resistor to dim them enough to match my other dash leds. i think i used 1k ohm resistor.

 
Rep Power: 0

For my retrofit, what is the best way to connect the shroud to the projector?

 
Rep Power: 812

what material? for metal to metal, get a metal epoxy. for plastics, they have plastic epoxy that works great.

 
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Did you change your exhaust or just add a muffler tip? The sedan tailpipe is kinked, how come yours looks straightened?

 
Rep Power: 812

i have the RS*R full catback. it comes with all black pipes and muffler, and the tip is the only chrome part (which is part of the muffler welded on). so yeah it does look like a tip but its really the whole exhaust. im sure you could swap the sedan muffler with a coupes which has striaght pipe and put a tip on that.

 
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I have a 2001 ex d17a2. returnless fuel sucks. how do I fix it?

 
Rep Power: 812

get a return style conversion kit

http://streetlevelperformance.com/Ho...ion%20Kit.aspx

 
Rep Power: 0

Hey im new round here and i was just wondering if it is possible to find a hydrolic to cable conversion for a 2nd gen integra. i know its not a civic but the integra forum people are not helping me.

 
Rep Power: 812

sorry im not sure about that

 
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Trying to find a DIY artical on installing turbo system, and nos system. also would you recommend wet/dry?

 
Rep Power: 235

Turbo install DIY: https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...tallation.html

Nitrous Oxide DIY: http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/t...ess/index.html

Searching can help you find things on your own

 
Rep Power: 0

google was no luck for me..

 
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Dear Gear, what do you think would be the easiest way to clean up the engine bay to make all the wires neater and somewhat hidden. (same for hoses etc.)



where can i get some red wire loom stuff.

 
Rep Power: 812

get a metal wire cover for the middle of the engine, use mothers billet metal polish on all metals you can see in the bay. clean up painted areas with some wax, and plastics with meguiars trim detailer. stay away from colored wire looms, they just flake and fade off after a while and look nasty.

 
Rep Power: 0

im sure you can get the meguires product at autozone? the sheath thats on the wires now is **** (take a pic once its light outside) i would also like to go through the whole engine bay and replace every ground wire (few of them loook very old)

 
Rep Power: 812

ya all those you can find at the auto store. and ground wire go with 4 gauge from best buy or something or any stereo place. also get some 4 gauge gold ring terminals.

 
Rep Power: 0

ok, thank you very much

 
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Any idea what temperature readings projectors produce inside the headlight? (retrofit)

 
Rep Power: 812

outside the headlight, around 110F. inside ive tested my previous 50w hid projector setup to 200F at the bowl for smaller projectors. as a general rule, the inside of the headlight is much cooler with hid compared to halogen, even tho the actual hid bulb burns way hotter. its just most of it is contained in the projector and dispersed. my halogen projector fog lights were around 250F back when i used halogen bulbs. i have amber leds now for looks.