Rep Power: 223

trying to fab a pressurized box for my intake, thought about going to a GSR OEM box. any ideas? got some drawings on cad.

 
Rep Power: 812

yeah airbox type setup, someone here modded the gsr intake box. but really its not gonna help much. the stock system is basically the same thing. were talking a few hp here not worth the effort. if you want a different looking intake with a box, get the volant.

 
Rep Power: 223

im running a conical filter now and im looking to quiet the b20 down as much as i can. im not worried about a 3 hp drop to be honest. the factory airbox makes more torque anyways. ill look into the volant. thanks

 
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err... if the company is based in japan... and has a branch here... and they deliver to residence or bussines... why not?

thats kinda like saying i cant get a custom leather seat made for me in Italy and they won't ship it to my door...

and on the drive home.. it sounded like ***. alot of vibrating now, when i cruise, and it sounds like metal sliding or knocking on metal...

everyone i know says to let my warranty fix it... but idk... i mean, i COULD let them fix it, and then just do a tranny swap, OR, i could replace the engine...

hmm...

1.2k vs. 5k...

also, any DIY on tranny swap yet? lol

 
Rep Power: 257

ok believe what you want then

 
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Hey gearbox, I've been researching possibly doing a TSX retrofit what bulbs and ballasts do you recommend?

 
Rep Power: 812

you can get oem ballast 35w (matsushita are okay), or go with aftermarket 50w ballast which will make the bulb much brighter. ebay seller yourhid has the 50w d2s ballast kit. for bulbs, only use philips oem bulbs either 85122 or 85122+ are both fine and will handle 50w ballast.

 
Rep Power: 0

Is this the ballast kit you're talking about?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/50W-5...3A1|240%3A1318

And what is the difference between the 85122 and 85122+ bulbs?

 
Rep Power: 812

yup thats the one, be sure to specify you want d2s kit so he includes the free adapters. do not use the bulbs that come with the kit. they are junk. the philips bulbs are pretty much the same, they both have the same life hours and lumen maintenance, the only thing is the + bulb resists colorshifting (where over time, the light turns whiter). so if you want more yellowish light over the course of the bulb life, get + bulb. if you want them to shift to a whiter color, get 85122 regular. here are the official specs, but with error margins they are basically the same. 85122 is 4100k color temp, 3200 lumens. 85122+ is 4300k and 3400 lumens. alot of people dont like the + bulb because the color looks too much like halogen. the regular bulb starts out yellow too but after they get "broken-in" they look whiter.

for example, this is a stock new bulb



and this is after 100+hrs of use where it colorshifted

 
Rep Power: 352

hey steve, have you ever used or have any knowledge of stuff called "hondabond" ???? i was thinking bout using it to seal my headlights...

btw, where did u get that 3m window sealer thing u used on ur headlights...and is it polyurethane?

 
Rep Power: 812

its butyl based, similar to the nissan stuff. its constantly in a state of softness lol. got it from auto store in adhesive section. it comes as a roll. i didnt use it in the channels tho, i mushed it around the outside lol. its waterproof and sticks, but you can also peel it off slowly for later changes. but then you have to redo it with new ribbon.

 
Rep Power: 352

its a roll?!?!??!?!?

wth? do u think homedepot or lowes will have them? i will check tomrow. i though it came in a tube and you had to use a gun to extract it...



let me google an image:

did you get this one or did it look simular?:
http://www.partsamerica.com/product_.../mmm/08612.jpg

 
Rep Power: 812

yeah thats it

 
Rep Power: 257

i am curious about this...im not really sure what you all are talking about

 
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x2 if not i guess i can do one once i find my tranny but ive never done a d.i.y. and i think id be lazy to do it

 
Rep Power: 812

tranny swap is a ton of work and you cant just do it unless you have the right tools.

sniperscout its just headlight sealer.

 
Rep Power: 257

i understand but i do headlights a lot and am just curious as to your technique

 
Rep Power: 812

well silicone around the outside didnt work for me cause it only bonds to the clear lens not the black housing. so i used the windoweld on the outside and just pressed it around the seams. its sticky and stays put, but you can always peel it off later. it can get a bit messy around the turn signal corner, and some of the goo is showing once the light is installed. but not too noticable.

 
Rep Power: 352

^well, origionally ur suppose to apply it inbetween the crack where the origional sealer went.....then you close up the headlight and heat it up in the oven a bit so it can mold to the crack/holes


the reason why regular silicone is a bad choice is because when ur car when ur car is driven, it creats vibration and the vibration can cause the silicone glue to detach itself from the surface and cracks of ur headlight....and it doesnt reseal itself because it has harden, and therefore it creates lil holes and stuff...where ALOT of air and moisture developes and therefore it fogs ur inside of ur headlights...


also, its a very very good idea to put lil silica packs in ur headlight (or big packages)

many new HID OEM headlight manufacture puts silica packages in their headlights (the TSX and TL have BIG silica package in their headlight, i know because ive taken em out to get the projector)

wow wt a long post

 
Rep Power: 812

i didnt put any silica gels and my headlights havent fogged once in 6 months, even when i was in humid illinois. i have that one vent hole in the back of the ebay lights that i enlarged and that seems to be all thats needed. since there is goo already in the channels, i guess you could just add windoweld to the spots that need a lil more. dont put too much or the headlamp wont go back together. i prolly shouldve done mine in the channels but i was in a hurry. maybe next time.

 
Rep Power: 352

mine fogged =[

its pretty warm here in soCal and it started fogging when i went up to the mountains to snowboard =[

 
Rep Power: 812

does it have vent hole? you cant have them totally sealed i had major fogging when i did that. it needs at least one good vent if not more. altho with tycs, i had lots of issues too. even with several vent holes they would fog when it got cold. i eventually ended up leaving the rear boot off.

 
Rep Power: 352

^i have vent holes in mine. the rear has plenty. i got those gay projector ones on ebay made by sonar... i never did like sonar =[ TYC have always been awesome for me.... but im retroing OEM next....

 
Rep Power: 812

i like your chrome sonars. but yeah i had the black ones and had constant fog problems. you could try just leaving one vent hole near the turn signal spot and close the rest. that way you set up a circulation where hot air from the headlamp moves to the vent hole and forces out colder air. too many vents isnt good either it will just let all the outside moist air in.

 
Rep Power: 352

hey steve just wondering, how is ur "oem" style clear headlights holding up?

 
Rep Power: 812

they are still good, sometime i wanna buy new ones and swap the lenses cause when i cleaned the grease off the back, it scratched them. not bad enough to matter, but still. i would prolly get the oem style ones for $110 with the amber and swap the whole trim and lens together. the old headlights tho are pretty much holding together with silicone cause the stock adjusters both broke lol. but as long as it doesnt fall apart ill be fine. its not something i wanna redo.

 
Rep Power: 352

^i hear you...

anyways i just bought some BOSCH ICON wipers... i personally only intend to use them for 3-6 months and then imma try to swap the blade with some PIAA silicone blade... i just love how the ICON looks so much....

its mount is cleanest/low profile mount for its kinda "flex" wipers...

wt do u think steve? you think they're swappable?

 
Rep Power: 812

i tried all those and to be honest the one i like the best by far is the bosch micro-edge. i hated the icons and a bunch of other brands. the micros gave the smoothest wipe without chatter and lasted the longest for me several months before the rubber warped. they also look the best imo.

 
Rep Power: 0

Just installed a Pioneer BT700 NAV/CD stereo in my 2000 Civic. After getting it installed, I checked to make sure all worked EXCEPT the turn signals. I didn't think to check since I did not touch the turn signal wiring, I don't think. The wiring for the radio required 2 modifications beyond the standard wiring harness: a splice into the rear light for the GPS (spliced into the green and black wiring going into the harness at the rear light in the trunk), and a splice into the red and green wire for the parking brake (spliced about an inch from the parking brake itself, inside the console). Like I said, everything works, as far as I can tell, except the turn signals. I read elsewhere that a similar problem happened and it was the backup fuse. I checked the turn signal fuse as weall as the backup lights fuse, and all was normal. I disconnected the parking brake splice, per someone's suggestion, and it made no difference either. I reattached the splice for now. Any help? Also, can you tell me a cheap place to get clean sunvisors to match my stock ones? Locally they are crazy expensive.

 
Rep Power: 0

Hey Steve, I've got a set of mint lenses left over from my accident. They're yours for the price of shipping if you want them.