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LXs really dont have sways?!?!

 
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LX and DX, nope, lol.

Hey gearbox, would you recommend a DIY install for an A/C compressor as opposed to paying someone getting it done? Besides the fact that a professional has to bleed the system first, of course. I pretty much have the compressor in hand, but wanted to know if it was one of those things that a professional would be safer doing than I am.

 
Rep Power: 291

What mounting kit are you referring to? I've been reading around and know I don't have to have a tie bar. Do I need to go to the hardware store and pick up some bolts and what not? Where do I determine where to drill holes?

 
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bleeding an ac system into the air is illegal. I wouldn't say that it is unsafe unless you sit there and inhale all the freon as it comes out. Its a fairly simple install. Once all the freon is out of the system there isnt anything special that you have to worry about except getting anything(i.e. dirt) inside of the lines. Which still is not that hard of a thing to avoid.

 
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hi there gear box, i drive a 2001 civic coupe dx and was wondering if you know or have a DIY on changing the front axle, should i just change both, and where would the best place be to get one? thanks a lot.

 
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Hey where is a good place to buy hub centric rings?

 
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Hey GearBox, what would be the best solution for the rear deck rattling?

Will be removing the rear deck, would you suggest me putting eDead v2 foam, dynamat, or spray in the rear deck?

Just need to know which would work the best I hate rattling! Thanks!

 
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do you know of any "tricks" to get the rear lower strut bolt off. ive tried an impact wrench @ 125psi

 
Rep Power: 257

yeah i do...its called a saw saw...i had to cut mine off on both sides

 
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How the hell do i get this A/C condenser off without taking off the I/C? I took it off once before but I cant for the life of me figure it out again. the bottom attachment is the one that i cant get off.

how do i get it off?!

do i need to remove #28 in this picture and take the line off with it?

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...+++HOSES-PIPES


please advise!

 
Rep Power: 257

yup number 28
when i removed mine i unbolted the line from that little cylinder thingy and just pulled it out(the line) with the condenser. also so you are aware there are multiple number 28s in that pic

 
Rep Power: 265

i believe he is talking about the progress adapter kit (or one like it), as shown here:
http://www.truehonda.com/inventory.p...tdetail&id=115

 
Rep Power: 291

So this is everything minus the sway bar?

 
Rep Power: 300

didn't notice that, but i guess you knew which one i was talking about.

Thanks for the help!

 
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I have an 03 civic EX and the front driver's side seat has a height adjustment, but when I move it lower, the entire seat will wobble. When I have it raised all the way up, it wobbles slightly. I have seen a thread about this before, and someone had said they were going to replace bearings or bushings or something and put a DIY on here, but haven't seen one completed. Any idea how to fix this problem?

 
Rep Power: 812

hey guys, been out of town and moving home.

for the hub rings, goto treadepot.com they will help you out on which ones to get based on your car and the rim type.

for ac compressor install, i would recommend having a GOOD shop do the work and make sure they do ac work alot. the system has to be depressurized and flushed, also you need to replace the expansion valve/orifice tube and the receiver/drier before installing the new compressor. then you need to follow the directions with the compressor as far as turning it with a spanner wrench before install. finally proper amounts of oil and refrigerant must be added to the system. warning: using the wrong oil type can seize the compressor!

for front axle shaft, prolly do both if you can afford it, but usually you only do the side thats broken. its a big job, and no i dont have a diy for it sorry.

for adding sway bar to dx/lx, i think you need the mounting kit from the ex which is basically the bolts and brackets. theres drilling involved too.

for rear deck rattle, use a layer of dynamat where possible, and maybe some foam pads. make sure all the clips are engaged and also the two hooks where the third brake light is one on each side. the worst rattle comes from inside the middle seatbelt holder. i just diy ripped mine out and boom no more rattle at all.

for rear lower strut bolt, did you try breaker bar? or pipe on a socket wrench, idk. look at mex's spring diy. i think you may need a jack to get it off. but alot of times its just seized and with enough pressure, the bolt will just break off. so yeah you gotta saw it off and start over lol.

for the seat, yeah its bad bushings. its kinda a pain to replace, and i couldnt find that diy with pics anymore. but yeah you could unbolt the seat, remove it, and then get to the bushings off the car. honda sells them, but i wonder how long the new ones would last if theyre the same crappy plastic as before.

 
Rep Power: 0

Torch. Should sell them at a general hardware store for a good price, got mine for about 30 bucks. I had a problem with my front driver strut with a nut that was on the bottom of the strut, connecting to the knuckle. A 450 ft./lbs. impact wrench didn't budge it, but with a torch, you should be able to get it off. Stupid me, I actually turned it the wrong way and ending up making it terribly tight, lol.

 
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And yeah, I figured a shop would be better off doing the A/C than me. I knew the receiver/drier, expansion valves and the proper oil needed to be done, but damn, didn't realize there was more to it...

Thanks!

 
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Wanted to thank you again for the help on the actuator question I had. I looked at the DIY for replacing the actuator again, and noticed that the part number was listed at the bottom. I went ahead and ordered the the whole locking assembly to make switching it out easier. I also ordered the electronic trunk release for the 01 accord, and I am expecting my new alarm to arrive around the same time, then I will be spending most of the weekend installing all of those items.


As to the poster asking about the rocking drivers seat, here is a link to a pdf of the TSB for the issue. You might try getting honda to do the work for free, but if that doesn't work, the directions(with pictures) are in the file.

http://www.geocities.com/pfeifferper...riversseat.pdf

My next question is to anyone who has installed a viper alarm, I have ordered a Viper 5701 Alarm\remote start, and was wondering if I would need to order any relays or items to install it properly. I have a Fortin SL3 Immobiler bypass already so I should haven't problems with the remote start. I was just wondering if it came with the proper relays for the door locks, and the trunk release I will be installing? Thanks.

 
Rep Power: 812

i think it should come with everything. my old viper did, but it wasnt remote start. all you need extra is the immobilizer module tho. for the trunk popper, should be easy for the alarm place to tie it in an unused channel.

 
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Thanks, I have the immobiler bypass already.

I haven't quite picked out my alarm, I am looking at the Viper 5701 and the Python 872.

They are pretty much the same alarm with different keyfobs.

Here is a link to the Viper : http://www.viper.com/Products/Produc...?ProductID=105

And the Python : http://www.pythoncarsecurity.com/pro...?ProductID=605

Please give me your opinion of which is better looking, I am leaning more towards the Python, and my fiancee likes the Viper.

Thanks.

 
Rep Power: 812

ive had my viper 6 yrs and its been good so far so idk, they are both good tho and made by the same company (DEI) i believe so i doubt theres much if any difference. and if you dont like the siren, go on ebay and find a unique one. i ended up with an older style oem bmw siren which ive only heard on one other car before. quite rare. its stupid to have the standard one that everyone else does.

 
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"yeah thats gonna have to be body shop work if at all possible. i tried to do the same to my rear door to get it flush with the body panel, but couldnt do it. my front door is similar to yours too, i had to get it opened by locksmith and he pried it open, now the window squeaks when it goes up."

Hey Gearbox, just an update here. Though I would share the fix I got. The towing company that did the damage came out to fix it and I was quite amazed, took him 5 minutes. Apparently they have to do this all the time after unlocking a car. He just rolled down the window, opened the door and put his knees against the bottom inside of the door and just pulled it back. Apparently the frames are quite flexible. Anyways, she seals like a charm now and looks great.

 
Rep Power: 812

nice lol did it fix the squeaking too?

 
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I didn't have any squeaking with my window, but I imagine it would since it is bending the window frame back to the way it was. I'm guessing you have some rubbing going on since the window frame is out slightly?

 
Rep Power: 812

well from outside it seems fine? so idk, the window always squeaks bad rolling it up or down. and its only that side which they pried open a bit.

 
Rep Power: 0

hey gearbox, I can't find your DYI for the fog lights and I'm sick of those OEM ones breaking. Could you point me to where the post is, or if it's been deleted, maybe you can post it again.

I've had two pairs of eBay OEM look and the Honda OEM fogs break.

 
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Sorry to asking so many questions. I got my car (its an 01 ex) in november of last year, today I took the wheels off to change my break pads, and come to realize the two blots that are supposed to hold my rotors on( actually 4 counting the passenger and drivers side are missing and not there.

So my question is, is it unsafe to drive without those bolts. It seems that they are hold on pretty good by the brake pads etc.

And also, what size, thread, length are they so I can get some if needed. Thanks.

 
Rep Power: 257

are you talking about the little silver philips head screws? number 22 in the pic
If so you don't need them. but if you absolutely want them go to honda. they are right around $1 each

 
Rep Power: 291

The bolts are pointless. The rotor is being held on by your wheel. Those screws are a pain in the *** to take off.