Rep Power: 235

Alright cool, so its a definite no go on the optimas

I have yet another question for ya,

I have 205/45/17's on my car now and I was wondering how big could I go without rubbing? My car is not lowered and I want to fill in some of the gap and have a more comfortable ride?

If I decide to lower in the future it would only be with a prokit anyway. Could I just lower the front or do I have to lower both front and rear?

Thanks most people can't even put a sentence together

 
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Hmm I might be in trouble eventually haha, I have a 800wat RMS system along with a 150watt PS for my CarPC. I guess the only reason it still goes right is because I really never have the subs turned up all teh time so I really doubt I get close to that number for a great period of time. All of its on a stock alternator and battery...still should I be worried?

 
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btw all I have a brand new set of never used lexus projectors if anyone is looking for some pm me.

 
Rep Power: 352

^there are like 20 differnt lexus projectors out there......which car are they from?

 
Rep Power: 812

mdawg, just keep the volume low sometimes so battery has time to recharge. if you bump all the time it will kill and mess up the battery.

 
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Don't know - took em out of OEM brand new headlights that were scratched at a dealer on a new car. I just got em' out. I have pictures and a video if you are interested.

 
Rep Power: 812

post on hidplanet.com they will be able to tell you type of projector and if its good or not.

 
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Change low beam headlights? The manual says to remove the wheel well liners. There has to be an easier way, please. 09 Civic LX-S auto

 
Rep Power: 216

I just put on koni/gc suspension, dropped reallll low. At slow/mid speeds it makes a bang when the car goes over a bump. any ideas?

 
Rep Power: 812

lo beams, yeah on newer civic 06+ you have to go in from the wheel well. no room to change from the top like older civic.

envy, did you change the strut mount bearings? are they installed properly? almost sounds like the shock is bottoming out, ie not rated for that low a drop.

 
Rep Power: 216

Konis should be able to drop low though. Right? And top mounts are definetly in right. I'm 5 inches from the ground.

 
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yeah should be lol. maybe its normal noises idk.

 
Rep Power: 352

at the bottom of to koni, there is a bolt that you install to hold the koni strut to the housing.....make sure tats real tight...... or else its gonna be popping...


also, i would put some slilcone inside the housing (tube) before you insert the koni, it fills up all the holes and acts as a damener as well... =]

probably should have told you that before you got em installed huh?

hahha

 
Rep Power: 216

hahaha yepppp
well my noise isnt so much a pop
i have a clunk in the rear from old endlinks that im too cheap to replace
and now i got this BANG! whenever i hit a bump.
like you know in a normal car when you drive over a bump and you hear a muffled noise? well mine is like that only it goes BANG!, but really unmuffled. Its really loud and right there lol

 
Rep Power: 352

^how do u like ur yellows and GC?

i love mine... i cant ride on anything but stiffest setting......even then, its smooth

 
Rep Power: 283

GearBox,

How's it going man. Okay recently i've noticed that I have major swirling in my paint, I guess its because of washing the car improperly.

Just want to hear your feedback on Scratch X, read a few threads on this and seen that you've tried it as well. Just want to know if it actually got rid of the scratching/swirling after a few attempts and did it stay away? Or did it hide it for a few weeks?

I hate these swirls. ;\

Also read about PoorBoys SSR1, any feedback on this?

Thanks!

 
Rep Power: 812

scratch-x is the best scratch remover since it takes out more scratches than it causes. and yes, it is a permanent solution. it actually has micro abrasives (diminishing) that polish the clear coat. if you have clear coat scratches, theres very good chance this will help reduce or erase them. i did a trunk that had a crazy amount of cardboard box scratches, and after we got done it was about 85% better to the point where the lady decided not to get body work done anymore. i had good luck with it after the bodyshop sanded my painted on pinstripe and said they couldnt get it any smoother. well it looked like crap like someone sandpapered the whole side of the car. so i worked at it for an hour with scratchx and now you can barely tell anything was done. the key is just work one small section at a time, keep applying more stuff as it gets used up and ALWAYS wipe in a back and forth motion not circles. and use a good wax when youre done like 3M performance finish. you may have to do one section 5-10 times to see results. just keep rubbing it. use cotton cloth.

 
Rep Power: 0

The bang could be the suspension topping out, or the suspension is too stiff, lol.

Anyway, gearbox, I asked this in another thread, but figured I'd catch your eye best here. Made a minor adjustment on my front driver side coilover, and I do not want to spill out another 80 bucks on an alignment I did a week ago. There is a little toe-in on that one particular corner and as a result, my steering is off. I know that the tie-rod is used to adjust toe, but I wanted to know if you know exactly which nut I loosen and which part I turn on the tie rod to adjust toe?

 
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Hey, any DIY on how to diagnose engine noise? i think i hear knocking... but the shop says its "normal noise"... i drive the car and it aint normal.

also, any DIY on replacing the arm rest or reupholstering a 2003 EX arm rest?
got a leather one from Redline and its awesome... but idk how to install it properly.

thanks!

 
Rep Power: 812

albertross, you have to get it aligned. theres really no way to just "guess" where it should be based on looks and steering. can you take it back to the shop and say something happened? usually most place have a small warranty period like 30-60 days where its free to realign it since its almost no work for them when its very small adjustments.

if the engine is knocking, like really knocking, try some higher grade gas, 89 or 93 octane. if the knock goes away, you found the problem. somethings messed with the engine.

the armrest if its stock, the fabric just unzips. there should be a cap too that pops off the side, then you can loosen the bolt holding it to the seat. the fabric has a hidden zipper in the seam and should also pull off.

 
Rep Power: 257

is the 01-03 armrest different from 04-05? i dont recall a zipper anywhere

 
Rep Power: 812

there might be differences. on 01-03, there is not an actual zipper but rather just the head of the zipper that you have to pull with your nail. theres no big tail like a full zipper lol. and its tucked away in the folds of the fabric. theres no way to see it unless you play with the fabric flap and search around. its usually on one side of the other.

 
Rep Power: 257

does your center console look like this?

 
Rep Power: 237

mdawg... either get a "yellowtop" or a deep cell battery. or you could just buy a capacitor. or you could try and get a higher power alternator from a specialty shop. these are probably your only solution if you don't want to not bump as much as you do. either of these will work, my bro bought a yellowtop battery cuz he was pushing 2 15s at 1000 watts rms. it worked and that battery has been in his car for 4 years and has never ran dead. it ran him a couple hundred bucks, but he left his lights on in the car and had some hellacious fog lights and nothing would dim at all when he bumped. it was really a good investment if you asked me. then my best friend in h/s had a cherokee with 2 18s running 2500 watts rms and he went the new battery route as well as buying a special alternator from a shop which specialized in custom alternators. he had a guage that would plug into his cigarette lighter to tell him how many volts or amps or whatever he was running and it wouldn't dip hardly at all when he had ridiculously high loads running through his system.

 
Rep Power: 0

yes. for now...

im debating on putting the leather over the cloth, for more cushion, or taking the cloth off and just having leather on the hard *** plastic...

and ya, its a weird knocking or somwthing... it gets drowned out by my intake and exhaust before 1.5k and after 2k... but in that small band u can hear it clear as day... its like something is just hitting something else... its not loud, but say im at the drive thru and im next to a wall, or its quiet and im parked next to a wall or car and rev... u hear this clink, clink, clink... its annoying... but for some reason... my gas mileage has stayed the same, or gone up, my car accelerates as well as it did before the sound, and i cant find any shavings or anything in my oil or filter...

taken it to 3 shops. 2 said its nothing, or they dont hear it, and the other didnt hear it till i sat there and pointed it out to em as i revved it to the sweet spot. they were just pulling hard on the throttle and hoping to hear it as my engine raced... u cant really hear much when ur intake sounds like a mother ****ing tornado and ur exhaust is droning out ur 2 12's... lol

but ya, so the guy who heard it, said its a bent rod... but he said it would be a good opportunity to do a K20 swap or rebuild... he will swap for $800 for ALL labor and time, and fabbing, all i need to do is buy the stuff for the swap... but idk if i wanna go thru all that if its easy to fix.. but if i do swap, i also get my manual tranny like i want anyway... jesus, this is hard... lol

cheap and fix it, or expensive, but get manual and a bad *** engine... hmmm... lol

 
Rep Power: 812

is it just a constant tick tick tick sound? thats normal its just the valves tapping. $800 for labor is pretty cheap, i would just pretend the old engine is broke and do the swap lol

 
Rep Power: 0

no, i know what valves sound like.

its from pretty deep in my engine. not the head, but the bottom end. its like a tick, or a knock... i cant describe it... it sounds like metal rubbing or banging metal every second... and i think it all started when my dad wanted to help out with seafoaming my car... i told him "nice and slow, in small amounts and dont stall her..." so whats he do? he POURS the **** into the line and my engine dies... when i started her up, she sounded fine... but a week or 2 later i noticed the noise when i revved her. u cant hear it at idle, but only when revving or driving at about 2k RPM.

ya, im pretty sure i want the swap, but everywhere i can find an engine, they are either WELL over 2k with no accessories, and no tranny, or they are all gone... or idk if i can trust em.

anyone know of anywhere good to get em? im looking for a K20A2, with all the goodies and tranny. so, alternator and pumps, etc.

still need to save up money for it too tho. i COULD get a loan for it, but idk if i wanna owe a bank 10k just to get a mean *** engine, wheels, coilovers, EP3 seats, new paint, and a few other odds and ends to make it look clean.

 
Rep Power: 812

check ebay, also look around local, sometimes shops will get hookups on that stuff. they are getting harder to find.

 
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found a K20A2 with all the stuff and tranny for 4k shipped from Japan with 100% start up warranty. roughly 35k miles... sounds good? lol

im just not sure i wanan go thru all the ****ing hassle of buying this crap for my car when i really don't race, and i could prob just fix my engine for a LOT less.

but it would look, sound, and drive NICE... decisions man.. this is hard.

 
Rep Power: 257

no motors come directly from japan to your door.