Rep Power: 206

yeah i know what you mean, i actually like the aero rear though reminds me of some RSX around here lol

the oem sides and ebay type r (i think) sides look identical to me and the ebay rear comes with the front for $100 shipped

i was thinking of some calculations last night and i think ebay all around will be cheaper, well thats with your $100 a lip prediction so before i order im going to have to find a few shops around here to make sure of the price...ugh lol

 
Rep Power: 0

hi, i have a 93 hatch and it needs new front lower control arm bushings on both sides. Do u kno how to replace bushings?

 
Rep Power: 811

you need a "press" which pretty much makes it a shop-only job. unless you can find somewhere that will press off the old and press in the new when you bring them the control arm. try the energy suspension bushings, they will last forever and are stronger than oem rubber.

 
Rep Power: 0

Hey gearbox i want to know the torque sequence and setting for a 2000 civic si

 
Rep Power: 811

sorry i only have 01-05 civic manual. did you try looking in a haynes/chilton at the auto store? those should have it and you can just look it up in the store without buying the whole book.

 
Rep Power: 0

where can i get a manual online

 
Rep Power: 811

usually ebay has bootleg copies for a few bucks

 
Rep Power: 200

Replaced the primary air/fuel sensor in my 04 coupe ex few weeks ago no problem. Now my buddy has a problem with his secondary in the 04 sedan ex. How difficult would replacement be compared to the primary?

 
Rep Power: 811

much easier. the secondary just goes into the cat converter. and very easy to reach. i was able to do mine without jacking the car up, but raising it a lil on the side would help you reach inside better.

 
Rep Power: 0

Hey Gearbox,

I cleaned the EGR valve but now I cannot find the PCV valve. I have a 03 Civic EX sedan and was wondering if you could tell me a bit more in detail where it is.
The figure in the manual is not clear.

I was looking just behind the engine oil fill cap and to the right of the air filter holder. I see a small black plastic capsule which has a rubber hose going out of it and says " oil pressure of 1 PSI required ".

Is that the one? Other than that I don't see any valve. Is if further down in the engine bay?

Update - Never mind...found the location.

 
Rep Power: 206

would an 04-05 rear bumper fit an 01 directly or would it need modding?

planning to get the 04-05 aero rear lip sooo yeah i need the bumper 1st lol
how much do you think it would be if I went to Honda to order the bumper?

 
Rep Power: 811

needs modding since fenders, headlights, etc are different. people have done it, but its not easy and costs $$

 
Rep Power: 0

Gearbox, awesome thread and great idea!

I got two quick questions myself, (maybe not so quick as I haven't found answers searching google and several forums)

1) I'm looking to install a new Alpine deck into my civic, but would like to retain the original pocket below it. Crutchfield sent along an ugly kit with a small pocket that I won't be using.

Wondering if you have any recommendations on better kits, if I even need one at all. I searched the site, and did a quick google, but little came up. Seems like I won't from what I found, and can do a direct ISO mount. Heard of issues with gaps and no trim, any ideas to make it look nice and seamless?

2) I also want to install another 12V plug off the original that will sit behind that area of the dash. I'm going to plug in a 5V 1000mA USB charger into it and run the cable to a DROID car mount behind the dash. Just wondering if there's anything I should be weary of, or look out for while doing so. Two plugs shouldn't draw too much through the fuse, right?

The plug still in the dash would only be used for occasional phone charging / ipod charging, ect. I barely use it now, but want to keep it there in case.


Thanks, and if there are already answers I've overlooked just point me in the right direction.

 
Rep Power: 811

metra makes a "piece of plastic" dash kit which literally is a piece of plastic with a din size radio hole that mounts above the oem pocket. that way you keep the lower pocket. i personally like the full metra kit better (which comes with its own large pocket built in, altho without a door). the thing i dont like about the metra single piece for the top is it doesnt perfectly match the dash plastic and also you cannot use a trim ring around the radio so it kinda looks...different. see the pics for more info below.

for the extra socket, its easiest to just buy a splitter from radioshack. basically it plugs to the factory socket and turns it into 2 (or 3 or 4). just be careful not to plug in too many hi power accessories or the fuse will blow.

heres a pic of the metra top dash trim kit with oem pocket. notice you cannot use the radio trim plate.



now the full metra kit with large pocket. radio has trim plate.

 
Rep Power: 0

That's exactly what I'm looking for, but will they fit a 6th gen (2000 2dr EX)?

My dash looks like this, and I'm not so sure the above would work. Thats why I'm running into trouble finding a solutions that include a large bay in the bottom.



The one crutchfield sent is a Metra, but the bay is horribly small and borderline useless.

 
Rep Power: 811

hmm yeah metra only makes that one kit for you with the small pocket. but your radio should be able to fit there without any dash kit right? it seems to be the right size for a din radio. and you could drill holes in the factory metal support to hold the radio. most radios should have screw mounts all over the sides. just make sure and use the correct size of screw, i think no longer than 8mm but it should say on the side where the holes are. in fact you could prolly fit a double din too but then no pocket.

 
Rep Power: 811

i found some stuff. first is the american international dash kit for your car, seems like a much bigger pocket design.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2000-...fAudioQ5fVideo

this next one is a scosche pocket, i think if you install the radio on top by itself (no dash kit) and need something to fill the bottom hole.

http://cgi.ebay.com/2000-2001-Honda-...item359604dc11

 
Rep Power: 200

SRS airbag light on for my 04! Help me Gearbox! I've tried resetting it but to no avail.

 
Rep Power: 811

if you followed the diy for resetting the light and doesnt work, you may actually have an srs problem like faulty airbag, loose wiring, etc. unfortunately this will require the special srs diagnostic tools that only shops have to figure out the exact problem.

 
Rep Power: 0

I had an airbag light come on in one of my cars a few years ago, so I dropped by Midas and they read the code for free. You might try them or another shop--it couldn't hurt to ask, anyway.

 
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Thanks again Gearbox!

A place close to me had the scosche pocket, so I started knowing I could run out and grab it if need be. The Kenwood deck I bought ended up fitting pretty nice w/o a kit. I had to fashion some side clips, and to get those on the deck and pocket right I had to dissemble the metal deck assembly a bit.

After all was said and done it fit pretty good. It's not perfect, and there's some very small alignment issues / gaps; but only the most **** retentive would worry about it.

For the the charger, I just stripped the wires behind the original, soldered and liquid taped gooped it up, then wrapped it with electrical tape. I don't plan on running more then 3-4 amps on the line, so the split should be fine.

Two USB cables run behind the consoles (one for the radio and one for the droid mount to the extra charger) and everything's nice and hidden.

edit: PS, I was surprised at the tiny gauge used for the lighter / charger outlet. Would that thing really handle 12V @ 10 amps?

 
Rep Power: 811

probably not lol. maybe 5 amps but thats even pushing it. thats about what one headlight bulb draws and its wires are the same size.

 
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i need help with to upgrade the grounds in my vic plz help

 
Rep Power: 291

Big 3 upgrade?

 
Rep Power: 811

all you need to do is replace the factory wires with 4 gauge ground wire from any stereo shop. partsexpress.com has everything you need even the gold ring terminals. do not add any extra wires, just remove the oems and replace with new. you can sand off the paint too for a better connection.

 
Rep Power: 388

Hollar at electric for his big3 upgrade kit, i'm rocking it- its pretty professional.

 
Rep Power: 248

i have the parts for the drum to disc swap, still adding my k20a. as i was installing my driver motor mount i ran into a problem with the stupid abs module being in the way. bent the bracket so i could keep it there, but got to thinking, why not delete and tuck. found out i need a dx or lx proportioning valve and lines. essentially deleting abs. now how does this do with the rear disc swap? i read the thread and see that mc and prop valve need changed for dx/lx owners to the ex/si model. i want to clean the bay and get rid of abs. help please.

i found this out about the mc and prop valve
DX
46210-S5A-912 004 001 VALVE ASSY., PROPORTIONING
46100-S5D-L01 002 001 MASTER CYLINDER ASSY.
LX
46210-S5A-912 004 001 VALVE ASSY., PROPORTIONING
46100-S5D-L01 002 001 MASTER CYLINDER ASSY.
SI
46100-S6D-R01 004 001 MASTER CYLINDER ASSY.
EX
46100-S5D-A51 002 001 MASTER CYLINDER ASSY.

 
Rep Power: 0

Dear Gearbox,

My 2000 Civic coupe has manual door locks, and the driver's side is impossible to lock - from the inside or outside. It started off just a bit tough but you could still get it to work. Now I can bend the key in the outside lock and it still won't latch. Any ideas on this? I was going to remove the door panel and check the bar that actuates the lock for obvious bends, but outside of that is there anything else I should be looking at as far as a culprit?

Thanks!

- Woody

 
Rep Power: 811

check the inside and spray silicone lube anywhere you can in the mechanisms. eventually you will need a new latch assembly, but lube may help it move. when you lock from the inside, the door must be closed. if its open, the lock button will not press down. either that or when the door is open, you need to hold the outside handle up while pressing the lock button.

 
Rep Power: 0

Thanks for the quick, and useful answer

I pulled the driver's door off using a screwdriver to pop out the pin behind the window crank. I took off one of the bars from the link where the two actuator bars for the lock come together. I was able to verify the lock handle inside the car worked great and smooth by itself, so that left me with the lock mechanism and the link between the lock cylinder and the lock mechanism. I tried to peek back at the lock mechanism as best I could and it appeared to be covered with rust - it's great to know the only spot on this car with rust is probably one of the least accessible

Long story short, I hit it all with a couple blasts of GT85, let it soak for a minute, and started working the lock back and forth. Bingo! Everything felt much smoother now. I reassembled the door and tested it both from the inside and out, and the lock feels almost like new again

Thanks!

- Woody

Edit: Also, thanks for the tip on the door being open part. I never noticed that before, and it will help for sure keeping me from trying to jam it in the future