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anyone know how many trans cover bolts are there to remove to change an oil pan gasket? or have a DIY they've used? 02 lx MT.


thanks

 
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Question #1
Parts list for a 2002 coupe drum to 1.7 EL Disc brake conversion.

Question #2
Is it possible to change the head gasket but leave the intake manifold on? I just had the job done and I swear I hear a leak at the intake. I wonder if they just left the old one on?

My car is also running rougher when idling now. I'm going to swap the plugs incase they got coolant on them.

The head was machined, could increased compression cause this? or does it support a manifold leak?

 
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1. drum to disk conversion, I've called a few junk yards around Vancouver because I am planning on doing this and I consistently get quoted around $300 for parts.

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/4...elled-out.html

2. If the head didn't need to be machined then yes, it is possible to machine a head without removing the im or the exhaust manifold for that matter. It seems possible very possible that they didn't change it, so when they put the im back on you didn't get a good seal.

 
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higher compression will not really be noticable at all except maybe a few extra hp. should not idle or drive any differently.

 
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gearbox,

I've been a troll for a few months, decided to join because no matter how much I search, I can't find a DIY that answers the exact question I need answered, but the question is simple enough that I don't need to start a new thread, or resurrect an ancient one.

I have a 2005 EX and I'm going to DIY 98-01 Accord trunk release sometime soon. Although I'm in no rush to do that whole job, I did recently annihilate my keyless entry fob and am in the market for a replacement. The only issue is that I'd like to be intelligent about this and perhaps get my hands on the fob with a trunk release button since I'll be doing that down the road anyway and don't want to waste any money on something that'll be obsolete soon.

I saw that a 2002-2004 CR-V fob would work for my car (p/n: 08E60-S9A-100), but I also read that the FCC ID's don't match. So now I'm just very confused, and don't want to buy the wrong keyless entry. Is this the right part or not?

Secondly, besides a simple program which seems easy enough for an intelligent human being to do, is there anything else that would make this seemingly simple job incompatible? I read a lot about keys and am confused what your key has anything to do with your fob, or a trunk release.

Sorry in advance for being a complete noob and I hope you can offer me some kind of helpful response with some witty smart assery weaved in.

Thanks!

 
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i would stick with an aftermarket alarm. much easier to hook the trunk release to, just be sure the alarm has an extra channel to use. almost every alarm has extra channels like pressing lock+unlock together for example. you dont need a dedicated trunk pop button for it to work. and when you have the place install the alarm, just say you want the trunk latch wired up as well.

 
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Very good point.

For the sake of resale, though, I'm looking to keep everything as "stock" as possible... if that was the case, which fob would be compatible, if any?

I'm still undecided, but I'd like to keep my options open. So if I were to install a sub-par stock alarm system, although it'd be a pain in the butt to hook up from what I'm reading, it would be POSSIBLE, right?

Thanks for your quick response, by the way!

 
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i actually have not read anything on here since 2001 of anyone using a different oem remote. mainly because the system is tied into the car and would require expensive rewiring to make it work. probably possible if the alarm does not have to be tied to the ecu (civic does not, but other hondas might), but a lot of work for not much gain. even if you figure out how to install it all, you still might need to reprogram the fobs unless you swap an entire new keyless box and alarm module that MATCHES the fob you are using (all taken from the same donor vehicle).

 
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Hey I recently purchased a 2001 Honda Civic Si for scrap (blown motor and rotten frame) but took off alot of stuff before it was crushed. My 2003 Civic DX now has power mirrors, an arm rest and new seats.
Two Questions for you
I want to install the front dome light right behind my rearview mirror but does the DX come with a harness (or any kind of bracket) that was built there and then just covered or do I have to wire it from my middle dome light.

Second Question is how hard is it to install the power locks onto my car, I have the remote key, the motor, switches etc. Its worth a shot I figure but wanted some advice.

Thanks in advance

 
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first one im not sure, i imagine it is different since the SI came with the moonroof and bunch of other stuff that would require a different roof. also the part numbers are different so its possible there is no harness or bracket.

second one, its a bit complicated. the actuator motors will bolt onto the latch assemblies no problem (both cars use the same assembly, the si just has the actuators bolted on). the hard part is wiring up all the actuators to the keyless entry module (assuming you have that hopefully, with the matching remote). the switch you will have to cut the door panel. or you can choose not to install that and only use the keyless remote.

 
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hey gear, a lil off topic but do you still use FP60 and/or LC20???

have u tried out the FP Plus?

 
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been using them for over 5 yrs regularly. i switched to the fp plus i think 2 yrs ago when it came out. its thinner and you only need 1/2 as much as the fp60. 1oz per 10 gal of fuel.

 
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I have a LX 2000 civic coupe, how do I disassemble the back where the rear speakers sit, I wish to take it off to paint?

 
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not sure on the older civics, but most of the rear interior had to come out like the rear seat custion, side bolsters, upper pillars, etc and then the rear deck can be popped off from the bottom. be careful because its easy to break the defrost connections on the window.

 
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I just picked up an 02 si with 117000 miles. Im sure it needs some general work, tune up and that sort of thing. Just wondering where should i start?

 
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start with the basics. new ngk or denso iridium spark plugs, new paper air filter (napa gold), new cabin filters, clean out all the intake system parts including throttle body and related idle sensors, clean or replace PCV valve, replace oxygen sensors with denso or NTK, check in the engine thru the oil cap and see if there is any carbon buildup, if there is try a treatment of auto-rx.com to really clean the engine up. it will be as good as new again.

 
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back again lol


So last few days, 3 or so, my 02 has been slow starting, not cranking right away...today wont start at all...

i wanna make sure its not the clutch safety switch....how could i do this?

also if it STILL doesnt start...after i bypass the switch what is next to check? just the starter? how should i check that? just jump the connections with a screwdriver?


btw i have work tommrw at 330

 
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what exactly is happening when you try to start it? clicking sound, no sound, struggling starter, normal starting sound but the engine never turns over, etc. its usually bad battery or starter. any dash lights like the green key flashing? make sure all battery connections are tight, then check the starter wiring under the rubber boots make sure its tight. if you can start the car and drive it and have cruise control, engage the cruise and then push down the clutch pedal. if cruise cancels, then your clutch switch is working.

 
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All my dash lights work. Metered the batt and that was a strong 12.6v.

When I go to start I can hear the fuel pump hum, then a small click from the engine each time I turn the key to ing.

Looks like I'll be pulling the air box plastic to get access to the starter? What should I do to test that directly?

Thanks GB

 
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so i bump started it today, clutch switch is fine, batt and alt are good.

so its gotta be the starter right? couldnt tell too much about the wire connections b/c they were wrapped prtty tight in sheathing.

butozone has a reman for 130ish....any ideas for a cheaper one besides a pull-and-pay yard?

 
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aftermarket starters usually suck, except maybe napa parts. autozone is the worst. everything is coming from china now and doesnt last. also most auto store can test your starter for you on their bench for free. its not something i would do yourself unless youve done it before and understand the risks involved.

 
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ya starter was toast. got a napa one, we'll see how that goes.



had it running for a week or so, then this tuesday my crank pulley bolt came loose, the balancer was wobbling, and then i lost my belts. luckily it happend close to home so the car has been sitting since. i got under it last night for the first time, turned the crank bolt and it spins freely in both directions, tightens down to the right, so that doesnt seem ruined. im probably gonna go to honda to get a new woodruff key and get a new balancer from amazon, its a doorman part. not sure if i should get a bolt also. should i use some loctite on the threads of the bolt this time?

what else am i gonna have to take off to do a complete check of any other related failure? timing covers? to check the belt maybe?

im just hopin it comin loose, almost off, didnt throw it out of timing or damage anythin else.

thanks


edit: also do you kno the torque spec for the crank bolt? been finding answers from 115 to 130 ft/lbs

 
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lemme check the manual on the specs. not sure why it would come loose unless maybe the crank pulley is worn out and there is no vibration damping. it may have shaken the bolt loose but it should be on there good, and the engine rotates in the same direction as you would tighten it. yeah make sure nothing happened to the timing belt.

 
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think i should loctite it to be safe?

will i need to pull the driver side motor mount do get at the timing belt? i wanted to do this in the driveway, but if i have to pull a mount ill have to get it towed out to my friends shop.

 
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yeah put some blue loctite. you have to pull the driver front tire most likely, and there is a hole to stick the crank pulley tool to get the bolt off if you dont want to take all the other plastic pieces out. i dont think motor mount needs to come out.

 
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cool. so basically, get the pulley back on, make sure the bolt isnt stripped, and to get the belts back on just use the tensioners on the a/c and the p/s? loctite the bolt, get a new key and done?


the crank pulley has "teeth" on the surface that meets with the crank correct?

 
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well yeah hopefully. depending on what you see when its opened up. its 181 ft/lbs (honda service manual) for the pulley torque and im not sure if it has teeth. im thinking no. do not use an impact to tighten the pulley. be sure to clean and lube the bolt with oil before installing.

 
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181 lbs is way off 115-130 lol maybe those numbers were for the older d17 motors


thanks again

 
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I installed my fogs but instead of wiring in the switch I want to wire them to turn on with my low beams. I dont have a spot to put the switch because I have the moonroof option as well as cruise control and power windows so I dont have a spot for the button. not sure if anyone has done this before. any help?

 
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im not sure how much help i can be, without knowing details of what your harness looks like. i can tell you the wire color you need to tap so they turn on with the headlights, but you need to figure out which wire in the fog harness is the low volt trigger that activates the relay. if you hook the wrong wire, you could blow fuses or melt the factory headlight wiring. for the fogs to come on when the lo and hi beams are on, you need to tap the lo volt trigger wire from the fog harness to the red or red/yel wire on the factory h4 connector on 01-03 civics. the wire will either be red or red/yel depending on which side you choose (driver or passenger).