Drums--->Discs SPELLED OUT - Honda Civic Forum

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Drums--->Discs SPELLED OUT

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Old 05-13-2005
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Thumbs up Drums--->Discs SPELLED OUT

Pictures fixed 1/5/18 by admin


This WILL be the last thread ever posted on the subject. I swear I'm gonna ban anyone who asks again. Post in THIS THREAD if you have questions about doing this. There is info in the FAQ, it is basic, this is a mix of that, the Honda manual on the subject and me tearing stuff apart. While I do not claim this to be 100% comprehensive, if you know a wrench from a hole in the ground, this is easy. It is a straight bolt on install, you don't need to modify anything... its just part for part swapping.

First you need to acquire a set of EP3 discs. EL discs for Canadians also will work. The more complete you can buy, the better, low miles is good too. If you build them, which I advise against because its expensive, you need knuckles, the hub and bearings, caliper assembly, wheel sensors and all the bracketry. Regardless, you need Si brake lines and EP3 or DC5 ebrake cables. I believe non abs cars will require a new proportioning valve although I can't confirm this. EX models don't need one, the ABS takes care of it.
Start by doing normal rear end work proceedures, jack the car, stands, pull the wheels.
You don't need too many tools, 10, 12, 14, 17 and 19mm sockets, a couple other basic tools. If you have ratcheting wrenches, they will come in handy, there's some tight spots.
First, remove the brake lines from the drums. Its up on the wheel well, you'll also need to remove the brake line bracket and save it for the new lines.

Next go into the car and remove the console. Disconnect the e-brake cables from the handle. You'll need to rotate the carrier until the wire comes up out of the slot on the side, then the pin will come out the top. Unbolt the 3 bolts that hold the cable to the underside of the car.

Then you'll need to remove the wheel sensor wires. On the right side, the plug is in the trunk. Pull up the carpet, you'll see a silver cover on the right side, just behind the seats. Pry it up to reveal the connector, unplug it and push it through the hole in the floor. There's also a bracket that holds it under the car, and one that holds it to the UCA. It also helps to undo the bolt that holds the muffler guard in place so you can see what you're doing when you go to put the new one in. Its the guard bolt right next to the sensor bracket. On the left, the harness is above the gas filler neck. Its a tight squeeze, but you can grab it.


With all the connections undone you can now unbolt the knuckle. First, mark the alignment cam so you know where to put it back later. The back bolt on the bottom of the knuckle is eccentric. If you look at it, there's marks on it... mark the one that lines up with the mark on the frame, or use a marker to mark where it goes.

(the red mark in the picture isn't exactly right, but if you look at the cam bolt next to it you'll see the marks I'm referring to)

Using a jack to support the knuckle, remove the UCA bolt first, then the alignment locknut. Once you've got the alignment nut off remove the front lower bolt. The knuckle should swing down now. With a small hammer or a socket handle, knock the alignment cam out. You should have the cam bolt and the big slotted nut. the knuckle should be loose, remove it.

Remove the stock wheel sensor from the drum. Its the oblong shaped thing in on the back that the orange plug is attached to. Remove the bolt then pry it out carefully. You'll need to do the same for the ones on the discs. Put the stock ones from the drums in the discs. Bolt them back in, toss the Si ones.

Everything else is just in reverse order. If you need to install brake lines on the discs, do it beforehand, make sure you use crushwashers with the new lines to prevent leaks. You can also change pads and/or rotors beforehand.
Bolt the lower front bolt in, but not all the way. If you tighten it you won't get the cam back in. Then reinstall the cam, lining up the marks. Install the locknut and keep your marks lined up. Torque the locknut to 43 ft-lbs. Tighten down the front bolt now, also 43 ft-lbs. Then swing the knuckle up and install the UCA bolt. 43 again.

Install the bracket on the brake line with the clip and connect the lines. Bolt the bracket back on the wheel well. No spec... just tight.
Feed the E-brake lines in through the floor. Connect them to the carrier attached to the handle and rebolt them to the floor pan. Don't forget to install the rubber floor seals.
The E-brake on the caliper is the sprung hook on top. Feed the line under the knuckle and through the hole in the bracket, then push the spring down and connect the line. The right side goes on pretty easily, the left is very tight. I found its easier to install if you connect the lines to the caliper first, then connect them to the handle. To connect them to the handle, loosen the adjustment nut as much as possible. Connect the LEFT cable FIRST, then rotate the carrier and connect the right cable.

Reconnect the wheel sensor wires and bolt the brackets down. Test the ebrakes to see if they're engaging by rotating the hub with the handle pulled. If they don't engage, tighten the nut above the carrier until they grab.
Then pump the brakes a couple times to partially fill the new brake lines, you'll need to thoroughly bleed the whole system.

Go gentle on them at first just to make sure everything is ok, and gradually get harder on them... they should work just fine. If you want to make sure they're engaging, use a marker and draw lines on the rotor.... they should be gone once you drive the car.
Estimated time to complete 3-5 hours
Have at it.

If you're real hardcore and you want to have the calipers pressure tested... the line pressure is about 770 psi to the fronts, 170 psi to the rear. This is the EX w/ ABS. I don't know how different the LX/DX proportioning is.
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Last edited by xRiCeBoYx; 01-05-2018 at 01:40 PM. Reason: Fixed pictures because photobucket sucks
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Old 05-13-2005
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Awsome, thanks for posting! Printing now!
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Old 05-14-2005
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those parts are hard to find lately for some reason...

Nice DIY!
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Old 05-14-2005
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I know of a 2 sets for sale right now.... and a junk yard with 3 more.
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Old 05-17-2005
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How much could I find these for? And anyone selling?
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Old 05-18-2005
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Has anyone with this swap done on a non-ABS car changed the proportioning valve. I have not, but I am wondering how much difference I would notice??
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Old 05-18-2005
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Originally Posted by Boilermaker1
I know of a 2 sets for sale right now.... and a junk yard with 3 more.
how much? maybe they are hard to find here, si's were selling for 14k new last year- there hasnt been much demand for them.
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Old 06-01-2005
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hmmm can u make a list of exactly what u need for this?? im having trouble reading what i need and whats optional. LOL also around how much would this cost?
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Old 06-01-2005
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Originally Posted by Pn0ybOiLiKehOy
hmmm can u make a list of exactly what u need for this?? im having trouble reading what i need and whats optional. LOL also around how much would this cost?
read the faq. hondaluver(sp?) already listed all the parts that is need.
as for the price, if u get it from honda, it would be around $700 total for brand new parts.
junk yard and other places would run u between three to five hundred.
if you want "professional installation" that would be extra of course.
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Old 06-01-2005
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*GASP* lovely DIY... you rock
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Old 06-08-2005
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rsx/si e brake cables, rear knucles, wheel sensors, rotors, dust covers, calipers, pads, brake lines and nuts/bolts, bleeder bottle for the install.
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Old 06-08-2005
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You can re-use the brake sensors from the EX. As they are the same part. You only need to remove the bolt holding them to the hub, then carefully pry them out, that way you do not have to unplug them from the inside of the car, saves time.

Canadian EL parking brake cables work best, as they are a little longer, but the Si's will work with a little stretching. And on my EX, I removed the stock proportional valve and replaced it from the SI's.
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Old 06-16-2005
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Old 06-18-2005
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if I have ep3 e-brake cables..should I try to use them or just buy dc5 cables?
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Old 06-18-2005
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just use the ep3 cables, I did and they work fine
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Old 06-19-2005
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Originally Posted by SkipBarber
if I have ep3 e-brake cables..should I try to use them or just buy dc5 cables?
Attach them to the brake caliper FIRST. Then hook them up to the handle. They're about an inch and a half short, so you're going to need to loosen the carrier on the handle post as much as possible, then tighten it back up once you got the cables in.
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Old 06-27-2005
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What about us guys with 4 doors...will the ebrake cable reach as far as we need?
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Old 06-27-2005
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Originally Posted by rumptis
What about us guys with 4 doors...will the ebrake cable reach as far as we need?
The wheelbase is the same isn't it?
And the console is in the same place isn't it?
So what would the problem be?
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Old 06-27-2005
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I picked up a set of rsx cables on clubrsx.com for 30 shipped. The rsx cables are a touch longer than the ep3's.
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Old 07-07-2005
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Could RSX E-brake cables be the answer?

Originally Posted by blouisgod
I picked up a set of rsx cables on clubrsx.com for 30 shipped. The rsx cables are a touch longer than the ep3's.
let me know how this went.

i bought the ep3 cables and after installing them had a slight drag on the driver side. i have since completely disconnected them from the lever with the hopes of finding a canadian replacement. if they work-out, without having to stretch or bend something, i'd like to give it a try.
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Old 07-10-2005
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Originally Posted by etdigitalis
let me know how this went.

i bought the ep3 cables and after installing them had a slight drag on the driver side. i have since completely disconnected them from the lever with the hopes of finding a canadian replacement. if they work-out, without having to stretch or bend something, i'd like to give it a try.
How loose did you have the cables on the handle? You literally have to run the adjustment nut all the way down until there's nothing hanging out the back, then adjust it back up until it almost catches but doesn't.
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Old 07-11-2005
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Originally Posted by Boilermaker1
How loose did you have the cables on the handle? You literally have to run the adjustment nut all the way down until there's nothing hanging out the back, then adjust it back up until it almost catches but doesn't.
I loosened the cable quite a bit. Definately to the point where nothing was hanging out of the back... but I suppose I could've gone further. It was more of the fact that the difference in length between the two cables was pushing the pivot limits of the equalizer bar. Also, the adjustment nut was getting hung up on the cable bracket, preventing me from being able to place the lever all the way in the down position.

It was also 95F and I was sweating it out in my garage

I dunno... maybe I'll give it another shot when it cools down a bit.
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Old 07-12-2005
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did anyone notice that its not possible to use a different proportioning valve with the lx/dx cars? the lx/dx valve has 2 input ports and 4 output ports, for a total of 6. the EX proportioning valve has 4 outputs, since the inputs go to the abs modulator, and the SI doesnt have a proportioning valve at all since its all tied into electronics for traction control etc. ...so, i cant really do much with discs, oh well, they look good i guess
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Old 07-13-2005
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Originally Posted by SkipBarber
did anyone notice that its not possible to use a different proportioning valve with the lx/dx cars? the lx/dx valve has 2 input ports and 4 output ports, for a total of 6. the EX proportioning valve has 4 outputs, since the inputs go to the abs modulator, and the SI doesnt have a proportioning valve at all since its all tied into electronics for traction control etc. ...so, i cant really do much with discs, oh well, they look good i guess
the si proportioning valve is called a 4-way joint (item 31 on the diagram).

i hadn't noticed the different valve on the EX and LX/DX before. that sux, man.

is there anyone out there that's done this conversion on a non-ABS model? or anyone that has upgraded to ABS? that sounds like it would be a real bitch.
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Old 07-13-2005
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yea, i saw that, but i dont think the 4 way joint on the SI does any proportioning. I think it just keeps balance between the adjacent corners.
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Old 07-16-2005
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so how much are you all finding those disc's for? i gonna head to the junkyard today maybe and dont want to get raped...
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Old 07-18-2005
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Old 07-22-2005
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Originally Posted by etdigitalis
I loosened the cable quite a bit. Definately to the point where nothing was hanging out of the back... but I suppose I could've gone further. It was more of the fact that the difference in length between the two cables was pushing the pivot limits of the equalizer bar. Also, the adjustment nut was getting hung up on the cable bracket, preventing me from being able to place the lever all the way in the down position.

It was also 95F and I was sweating it out in my garage

I dunno... maybe I'll give it another shot when it cools down a bit.
having a bit of a problem on this as well, i have everything in, on the right side, except for the ebrake cable, i can't get the ebrake onto the caliper... i was going to try to take the brakes out, and do them that way, not sure if that'll work, but i just spent 4hrs on one side, and am running out of options, if it doesn't work, i'll get dc5 cables. I loosened the cable a lot too, can't see the bolt in it. anyways, anyone got any other tips for this ?

i found the DIY to be a little useful, pretty easy mod, just time consuming, i think the other side will go 100x faster...
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Old 07-22-2005
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put it on the caliper first, then on the handle.
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Old 07-22-2005
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if i were to do that, i would barely be able to get the handle on, it was hard doing it as it is, its not on the caliper, am i supposed to not have it all bolted up, all the brackets are bolted in, under the car. thanks for your help btw.
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