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-input shaft bearing seems to be on its way out (read the tranny noise thread, and that confirmed my suspicions) Noise is when the clutch is disengaged in gears 1,2,3,4 and neutral. It comes and goes in 1 and 2, but is constant in 3 and lesser noise in 4.

my question with this bearing, since im almost 100% sure thats what it is, the TOB was replaced with the clutch kit so it should be fine. Will it destroy my trans if i leave it until i change my clutch again? since its a bit of work to drop the tranny again.

-after replacing the rack and pinion, i have noticed my fluid level dropping below the minimum line in the resevoir each time i drive. upon looking for the leak i cannont see any wet spots other than the lower hose on the res going to the pump AND the lower hose on the rack, coming from the res. hopefully its just a hose. my question being is it safe to use a uv dye in the p/s system to locate the leak more readily?

-Front Main Seal seems to be leaking. After doing the rear main, it seems the increased oil pressure has popped the front main seal. Now im not sure 100% if it is the front main, so my question is what else could it be? few drips of oil on drivers side after sitting over night. AND what else should i be replacing since ill have that area out to find the leak? ill look up the DIY for the front main since im not to versed in this procedure.

 
Rep Power: 811

not sure on the manual trans.

for the PS, if you see a leak on the hose then most likely the hose needs to be changed. its pressurized, so even a small leak can drain pretty quickly. not sure about using dye, it may cause problems with the fluid if it has other things in it.

where exactly is the leak coming from? there are many different seals that could be leaking and the oil traveling to a different spot by the time it reaches the bottom. if its coming from the timing belt area, could be the cam or crank seals. even a leaky oil pan. just be sure to identify the exact source of the leak. you can spray carb cleaner to get the old stuff cleaned up and that will make it easier to see. if you have everything apart and the car is older than 100k miles, its prolly a good idea to replace all the seals anyway. also are you sure its not power steering fluid dripping? old ps fluid can look just like engine oil.

 
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for the p/s. i can only see two spots that look wet. the bottom of the return line and the fitting at the rack, the back metal fitting. and i just replaced the rack, so all the fluid is brand new honda ps fluid. the resevoir shows a drop between the upper and lower levels when i drive about 15 miles. so im topping it off daily with honda fluid.

whats the full list of seals i should replace on the "front" side of the motor? front main seal side. have a DIY for that complete seal replacement?

thanks

 
Rep Power: 811

its prolly the hi pressure line and i would also check to see that the fitting was installed properly. its easy to cross thread it.

for the seals, there is a crankshaft end seal on each side of the engine (trans side and pulley side). then there is a cam seal behind the cam gear and a cam plug on the opposite side. i know for the rear main seal, the trans has to be pulled out. for the front, it would be easier to put a new oil pump in with the seal pre installed (which also requires removing the oil pan). not an easy job, but not as hard as the rear. if you try to pry the seal off you will prolly damage the oil pump anyway. make sure you know where the leak is coming from. sorry no diy on it.

 
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yea got the rear main done with the clutch when i bought it. so for the front, might as well get a new oil pump with the seal installed (thats the front main seal) the front cam seal, and the oil pan seal...anything overlooked? will do accessory belts...should i do the timing belt also?

oil leak looks like its coming from the crank seal from what i can see from the car on jack stands, ill have it on a hydro lift tommrw afternoon when im back in the shop.



UPDATE: the p/s leak seems to be dripping on my exhaust, leading me to believe it is coming from the middle of the rack...dont thnk the lines are that far to the middle?? could it be a line or a faulty rack completely?

 
Rep Power: 811

could be a botched rack install. if you dont do it right, you can have leaks even from a new unit. for the seals, i would do the oil pump (front main), cam, crank, and oil pan gasket. since you are already tearing up that area, may as well do the t-belt, water pump, and tensioner.

 
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those two not the same?

thought, from what ive read, that the oil pump has the front main/crank seal installed already? and just have to put the new pump in.


thanks

 
Rep Power: 811

oh yes they are the same. dont know why i put it in to sound like 4 seals. there are three total you should do. and yes the new oil pump has the seal installed already.

 
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cool. thanks again. much appreciated.

 
Rep Power: 811

just be sure to check around everywhere when you have it all apart. it would suck to replace those seals only to find out its leaking from the trans side and traveling across to the pulley side.

 
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How hard would a cv joint replacement be?

Passenger boot is leaking=clicking noise making sharp right turns, parking lots. But not horribly. Is it one of those DIY's where at the end you'll be hitting yourself saying "I should have taken it to a tire shop" ?

 
Rep Power: 811

i dont think i would try it myself. its more of an advanced project and if you mess up, it could turn into a big fail.

 
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i did notice the oil traveling across the pan, even toward the raised area near the trans. but the oil is def dripping down onto the subframe on the driver's side.

hopefully it is the FMS b/c i just replaced the rear main and that was a PITA

 
Rep Power: 811

its not coming from the VC gasket or the cam plug is it?

 
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nah just did the vc, and its lower on the "front" side of the motor, thats why im thnkin crank.

 
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anyone know the front crank seal part number?

 
Rep Power: 811

i think #16 in the pic

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...-+OIL+STRAINER

 
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What up people!! I got a problem with my 1990 civic hatch when I'm driving at night and put my lights on they shor out. The dash lights and all back lights but not my head lights. So I felt the box of wires that run across the driver door and seat to the back. It was hot so I opened them there was a couple wires stuck to gether and melted. It pops my number 8 fuis ( not sure of that spelling) but I kept changing it just so I wouldn't get pulled over till I got home cus my driving record is bad I just got my licents back after four year .. So my question it do I have to buy a harness or could I just follow them buck and replace a few by snipping the and does n e one know what could be making this problem?? Thank u

 
Rep Power: 811

if you found the melted wires, try to cut off the melted part and reconnect the wires the way they were. you could also just get a whole new harness or make one for the headlights. its not too difficult but you do need to know a bit about how the car is setup like what size bulbs and what the wire colors are.

 
Rep Power: 0

I got the break lights to work but ever time I got to turn on my running lights the fuis pops and shut off my dash and back running lights but the beak lights and bringers still work does the mean I'm going to have to take out the plastics and just follow it to see if something else is melts and grounding out early maybe??

 
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P's the headlight never went out there on a diff line or as indeviduals as well as the high beams mean left low then left high ect..

 
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I don't how to post a thread I've don't I'd before but for got but I just came across this its a way to check what type of ecu u have or if ur looking for one to run ur vtec for a swap and so on


1 of 4
Find the number, which will be printed on the side of the device on a label and will consist of 11 various digits and letters that identify what model car it belongs to.
2 of 4
Make sure the first five digits read "37820" as this is Honda's standard and will ensure it is a Honda ECU.
3 of 4
Check the middle three digits which identify the Honda's model. Consult an ECU list available online that identifies the models according to this middle number, which should always start with the letter "P" and end with two digits. Some examples include "PM5," which indicates a
1988-1991
Honda Civic or CRX while "P13" corresponds with a
1993-1995
Honda Prelude with a Vtec engine.
4 of 4
Identify the last three letters of the ECU number, which identify the country of origin and the type of transmission. For example, "A" means it is an American ECU, "G" means it's European and "J" means it's Japanese. A "0" in the number means it belongs to a manual transmission while "5" means it belongs to an automatic transmission.

 
Rep Power: 811

if its the parking lights causing problems, the only way is to pull the interior apart and check all the wiring. it would be easier than running new wires. check areas like where they are when you open the trunk cause sometimes it kinks when you close and open the trunk too many times and the wires break.

 
Rep Power: 0

I just bought a 2002 Civic ex with D17A2 engine and it keeps throwing code p0401: egr insufficient flow, I already tried cleaning the EGR valve and cleaning the ports underneath, cleared CEL and it's still throwing the code. I pulled the EGR valve off and started the car and it did not stall telling me that the ports in the head are clogged. Can you please give me a detailed instruction on removing the fuel rail and intake manifold so I can clean these ports? And a good method of cleaning these ports would be nice too. Thanks!

 
Rep Power: 811

ive never done it before so im not exactly sure, but the IM is plastic and ive never heard of the passages getting clogged. its quite a bit of work to remove that stuff. cleaning the head passages will really be a problem. you may want to look for those "pipe cleaner" things at a crafts store and see how far you can stick it into the egr holes. that should tell you if they are clogged or not.

 
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I have no rug in my car already so yea today's tast is to take out trunk plastics. My friend works at a Lexus dealership cus he just got out of school for things like this so I asked him what was up he said it could be grounding out early maybe and that there r relays to check cus the wire don't just go from fuis to light it branches off to other lights . It looks like I'm going to get a oil wiring 101 with myself today . I had another friend helping me and he said to just sell the car cus of the electrical and a know a lot of ppl would say that but I can't really do that

 
Rep Power: 811

electrical isnt really a good reason to sell a car. usually those are easy esp on older cars. just trace the wiring and you will find the problem. parking lights are not terribly complicated.

 
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Yeah, that was my next step before trying to rip the IM and the fuel rail off. I'm just having so much trouble with this EGR crap and I don't really want to pay $200 at a shop to get it cleaned when I know I can do it myself, I just need instruction!

 
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slave cylinder replacement DIY?

 
Rep Power: 811

sorry, no manual experience for me at all (i have auto)