Alpha 5

iTrader: (8)

Now that is the kinda statement that will get you an infraction around here.

tuningmycivic

iTrader: (11)

or worse yet, temp banned for voicing your opinions....

tfnaaf

iTrader: (2)

exturbo6

iTrader: (7)

so hows your car now clinte? still working?

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

LOL - Tom! We've just gotta rattle your cage every now and again.

The car...yeah.

Currently deadlined in the garage up on four jackstands. If you have a look at the previous page Steve (or the one before depending on how much chat has filled in), I broke a few key pieces on my exhaust install.

But!

There is an end in sight!

I was thinking about different ways to run my now-defunct oil return line with the limited local options I have, and I remembered I had some stainless steel shower (yes I said shower) line in the downstairs bathroom. Well I just got home from work and was looking at it. It's more flexible than my -10AN stainless line (less stress on my now JB-welded fitting) and the ends look mighty close to -10AN......hmmm.

So I popped the current shower hose off, screwed on a -10AN fitting to it and it fit!! Woohoo!!! Same size!! That means I can affordably and quickly fix my oil return line with common British household plumbing parts!! You have no idea how happy this makes me.

Hopefully I'll be able to finish it tomorrow or Wednesday and be back on the road soon. The PCS ignores the downstream O2 sensor anyway, so I can just ziptie that up somewhere in the bay until I get a new one.

Rennen

iTrader: (35)

not really, i really dont give two ****s about whats said in the thread

tfnaaf

iTrader: (2)

Keep an eye on it, it may not hold up to oil in it

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

Yeah, actually I'm more glad to find that standard household plumbing fixtures are -10 AN here so I can make a run to the DIY store tomorrow to pick up some hard line and fittings to make a permanent return line, vice the shower hose cluge. I should be able be able to get some copper fittings and flex tubing that will do the trick. That area doesn't get hot enough to make a difference if I'm using copper vice steel.

DsevenEm2

iTrader: (6)

i learned in class of this one time, my instructor used some stainless steel lines on a hydraulic steering pump on a dual motor boat.. and the pressure became so high at one point that the line inflated and at 55 mph in a 24' boat, it relieved the pressure randomly and made the boat take a turn unexpectedly at about a 100 degree angle.. throwing my instructor and his co-worker, off the side of the boat...

not that, that story has anything to do with ur lines or motor.. just make sure those lines will be able to hold up to any pressure put on it by the flow of oil.. u wouldnt want it to block off and then randomly shoot tons of oil into whereever its going at super warp speed..

sorry if i dont know what im talking about lol... just thought id put some of my ongoing education on the line.. just a heads up

greeen01civic4d

iTrader: (7)

funny story, and a good thought as well, but i dont know if oil carries the same pressure as hydrolic fluid

tuningmycivic

iTrader: (11)

specially the return line...not that it would be a steady drip, but i don't think it has enough pressure to violently throw oil anywhere. but i have been wrong before

HonCiv02

i would think that they would hold up to the task (but then again i am no expert ).

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

All good suggestions folks. There is like zero pressure on an oil return line so I just need something that will allow me to keep a downward angle to the pan and be made of some type of metal so it doesn't melt from being sandwiched between the DP and exhaust housing.

HonCiv02

so i just checked out the factorizer.co.uk and laughed my *** off when i got the one in my sig. i had to save it, thanks foos.

tuningmycivic

iTrader: (11)

kinda funny, but some might find that offensive....

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

Not me!! Merry Christmas everyone!!!

DsevenEm2

iTrader: (6)

yea its a good thing there aint too much pressure in those lines.. i wouldnt have thought there would be too much.. hydraulic steering IS AWESOME tho... you can let go of the wheel at 66 mph for about 5 mins without it moving a foot from left to right.. just a straight even shoot even in choppy water

another cool story:
i put a console on fire today in class... :doh: connecting a positive to ground on the tach caused the ignition switch wire to detonate everything... next thing i know i see a nice glowing red wire and a couple SNAPS and smoke EVVVERRYYWHEREE... its ok... mistakes happen so i can do better next time.. so 2morow we will see..

sorry for the threadjack foos.. any updates??

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

Bleh. Stayed home sick from work today. More to not infect others than not be able sit behind a computer all day. Once my meds kick in I'm going out to buy the parts I need and fix this damn thing. Patience level is really low though (my head is killing me), so hopefully I don't break anything else.

LogicWavelength

iTrader: (2)

I'm hoping that your headgasket problems don't have to do with Chris' tuning abilities... because as soon as I can get the money together I'm going to do the tune-by-email that you did Clint. BTW... my oil return line is leaking. It was a POS Ghetto-Booty-Job that came with the kit I bought used. It's a steel braided line with an anodized, threaded aluminum fitting on the turbo side and hack-sawwed off on the pan side. It just slides over a barbed fitting and then I clamped it.

My problem is I have no idea what size it is and it's leaking out of the aluminum fitting because it was missing a ring from the beginning and I'm an idiot for putting it in there.

TIPPMANN

Until they can fix my account I am using this one.

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

Buh bye.

DsevenEm2

iTrader: (6)

good job, looks like it came out nice.. quick turbo noob question. what does the wastegate actually dump out... is it just pressure?

dopes6070

iTrader: (25)

excess exhaust gas. The wastegate controls boost by only letting so much exhaust gas go through the turbo. If you diddnt have one boost would just keep rising untill the turbo ran out of air flow or your engine blew.

skipbarber

iTrader: (34)

this is probably going to be the biggest hijack of clints' thread, ever. sorry, but now you'll be able to see why i havent been around as much lately. I spun a rod bearing and eventually seized the crank in my old motor...here is how the rest is unfolding

picked up a motor from PA, out of an 04 auto sedan that was wrecked within it's first 2 years of life. Motor had a measly 16k on the clock, but it sat so long, it looked like it had been under water. Took it to my shop for the initial stripping of parts. I need the block, crank, rods, and pistons, everything else will be new or from my dead motor


the guts of the motor looked FLAWLESS despite the exterior crud. I spent a few days trying to clean the block, nothing worked, not even the hot tank. i ended up using a wire brush on a drill to get most of it off, but now it looks like pewter, rather than aluminum

didnt even have to ridge ream the cylinders to get the pistons out.

initially, i was just going to check the bearing clearances, then pull my old motor and drop my a2 head on this block. but when i inspected the bearings, the top of crank bearing #1 was pretty worn..looked like over tightened accessory belts were to blame. so i decided to get all new bearings, new oil pump, new seals and new rings. most of which took my dealer a week to get.

yucky pistons, this person mustve been afraid to floor their car AND used really shitty gas. typical daily driven civic. two hours of finger busting work and a short bath in the hot tank later..


i honed the cylinder walls to get the perfect cross hatch to seat the new rings and get rid of the little bit of carbon crud near the deck side of the cylinders. checked the ring gaps and installed them on the pistons, then popped them all in last night. This morning I plastigauged the new bearings, all were nice and perfect, gooped them in assembly lube and went to work

as it sits today, new pump, seals and bearings installed

but not before i had to fight these old dowels out of the block first

i worked a total of 8 hours between yesterday and today just to get the motor where it is now. Im gonna take the day off tomorrow to get fat off of some turkey and the rest is going down on friday. i'll be back with more later, but im friggin tired and smell of all sorts of lubes..and not the good kinds.

/frustrating series of events

EDIT: before people ask. no i did not want to get rods and pistons, yes i realize this wouldve been a good time to do it. my car ran fine the way it was and I can go through this a good 2 more times before i spend the amount of money id be spending if i got a set of rods/pistons. yes, rods/pistons are good insurance and great for people wanting to lower compression and getting stronger parts. The lesson to be learned here...BOOSTED PEOPLE, MIND YOUR OIL LEAKS, DO NOT JUST DRIVE AROUND AND OCCASIONALLY ADD OIL, CEASE DRIVING YOUR CAR IMMEDIATELY UNTIL YOU FIX YOUR LEAKS. my spun rod bearing is me driving my car on low oil one too many times, coming back to bite me in the ***.

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

Somehow my HG and exhaust problems seem a little easier to handle now. Holy **** Edwin. That's the kind of stuff I wish I knew how to do! So is the green stuff and rubber hose to protect the crank while you monkey with things? Did you use a bottle brush-style honer or a different one for the cylinder walls? Over-tightened accessory belts, at 16K? You would think no one aside from a Honda assembly monkey had ****ed with the belts. I didn't really realize belt tension was so important. I will be making doubly sure I have things right when I put my car back together tomorrow.

This has always been the "Everybody's Turbo Thread". No worries there man. Good work at getting all that done, and always nice to see someone do it themselves instead swiping a piece of plastic.

skipbarber

iTrader: (34)

yea, the green things are thread covers to help protect the crank, it also extends the rod bolts to make it easier to line up with the crank when you push the piston in. I dont really know what the technical term for our hone is, we just call it the dingle berry hone, it looks like a pipe cleaner, but each little tip has a little ball of grinding stone on it, so it looks like a stick with few hundred dingle berries. you use the same hone for all of the cylinders, you just gotta get the right size hone, a high speed drill does the rest. I also checked the cylinder bores for taper and out of round before and after honing. i think the total amount of taper was like .0001", which is next to nothing, and that was only in one cylinder, the rest had even less, which i couldnt even measure. as far as the belts, i have no idea who is to blame, but the angle at which the the bearing is worn lines up perfectly with the belts. at 16k, it gave me something to think about. but the motor went together completely within spec and the crank was damn near flawless too. and swiping plastic? ha, i wish. this has already been more expensive than it shouldve been. Im not working nearly as much as i did over the summer, i make a fraction of what i used to make now that im in school. I was pissed when i got the bill from the dealer for the parts..most people i know pay about $25-40 for a complete 4 cylinder ring set, i paid $25 bucks for each cylinder! WTF!? everything took forever to get here. Id also gotten ARP rod bolts, which i didnt install because you run the risk of throwing off the rod bore a little and you need a machine shop to make them perfectly round again. BLAH.

DsevenEm2

iTrader: (6)

this is definately the ultimate turbo thread... seriously. if anybody wanted to turbo the D... youd definately have to run down all...105 pages? well maybe 98 of them LOL... crazy **** skipbarber.. someday id like to be able to do that +1

dopes6070

iTrader: (25)

I think I would probably be painting that block just so I wouldn't be like eehhhh every time I popped my hood. lol

skipbarber

iTrader: (34)

painted block = harder to spot leaks. that and i didnt feel like doing all that masking. i dont give a flying **** what my car looks like anymore, all that matters is that it's passing ricers left and right. besides, under my hood, you cant even see the block...

HonCiv02

psssshhhhhhhht!

dumptube looks good foos.

skip g/l with the build man.