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^ Thanks.

Was going to get this torque wrench since it can do both 1/2 and 3/8

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...1#.UDquHtZlTbg

and this breaker bar

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...1#.UDquU9ZlTbg

 
Rep Power: 189

lol hmm i wonder if you could do the upper balljoint and get the axle out? anyone know?

wow. all the stuff came to like 280 or so that i didnt have when i was going to do them. i ended up not needing to do them though so idk how well that adapter actually worked.

 
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ok so i just caught my typing error haha. haynes said that all you had to do is remove brakes, axle nut, tie rod, and suspension fork and then wah la you can get the axle out. believe me when i say not gunna happen; not to mention to the ball joint is much easier to disconnect with the suspension fork bolt in. i don't think you could get enough play to get the axle out by just doing the upper ball joint, but im not sure. im used to just taking the lower out of the control arm.

i was just tearing it apart to do the axle, which was 60 bucks; then had to disconnect the lower ball joint to get the axle out, wrecked the ball joint the doing this, and had to disconnect the upper ball joint to replace the lower, which wrecked the upper ball joint... ack.. so 100 bucks in parts and 100 for renting the press and a lot of cussing we're back on the road

 
Rep Power: 189

hmm i left the brakes on when i did my clutch. actually didnt even have to remove the suspension since i was using the same axles. just axle nut balljoint and move the knuckle off to the side and pull the axle out of the hub.

how did you wreck ur balljoint?

 
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https://www.civicforums.com/forums/2...ml#post4614936

and

and

and

 
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hammer.. lol. i pb blasted it and let it soak for a while, but it wouldnt come loose.. so i beat it till it came out so i could change my axle. those holes where you slide the cotter pin through just smahed up so i couldnt get the nut on after..

 
Rep Power: 189

did you leave the castle nut on like so -> before you started with the hammer?

 
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Fixed my Ingalls ETD so now there's basically no vibrations on the stock setting. Going to try some tighter settings over the next week.

 
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how did you manage that? i used it and even on the lightest setting, it would vibrate the car like crazy and panel resonance was too much for my ears.

 
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[QUOTE=pwnsauce;4615020]did you leave the castle nut on like so -> before you started with the hammer?

umm... damn i really wunna lie and not sound like a jack hole... but no, i thought of that about 2 seconds after my third or so hit, which was too late

you from dayton? i bought my car from canton

 
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[QUOTE=94civicd16z6;4615093]oh man that sucks lol
but yup right outside of dayton anyways

oh and today one of my good g-force sports popped. i buy more tires than oil changes these days lmao.

 
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Could be a few reasons GB. I bought my Ingalls ETD used so it could be broken in pretty well. Second, I noticed I was missing some of the installation hardware so I went out and bought some replacements at a local hardware store. I also added some extra rubber o ring gaskets and washers, but i'm not sure if they didn't come from Ingalls or if they were lost from the previous user or if I should have even used the extra hardware I bought. But I think with the extra washers and o rings, it helped the vibrations quite a bit.

Additionally, I noticed your thread GB on the Ingalls ETD, not sure if you changed it, but you had yours on backwards. Also looks like you're missing some hardware too.

edit: forgot to add I have a DX too so I don't have to worry about that ABS box like you did either

 
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Replaced fuel filter and strainer yesterday. Anyone know what this little black plugin does in this picture?

 
Rep Power: 189

got a new tire put on today. i wanna get some nice si wheels so i dont have to drop 120 every month on a tire lol and the guy at the counter tried to tell me my tire popped cuz it was low...but i definetly just put air in it a day before to around 38 psi and it didnt leak. then once i got home i noticed the tire they just put on was only at 25 psi...

 
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Got a set of Enkei RZ5 wheels with Kumho ecsta asx tires.

Next stop....Body shop!

 
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mine was on correctly, and in fact quite a few had theirs on backwards. if you find the other threads, you will see this. mine was new and came with all the hardware as well. but seeing as how its a shock, the direction really isnt very important. but if you do not feel any real vibration increase over stock, it means the damper is basically useless in its function. if it was installed properly and doing its job, you would feel the engine like you are sitting on it. and it will give quite a performance boost, as the expense of shaking the car apart and making you deaf lol. but if you are pretty much thinking it feels stock, then why even have the damper to begin with, if its not doing anything different. also remember that these cars were not designed to withstand constant shaking (and reason why they used liquid filled engine mounts to isolate vibration). any number of chassis parts could rattle loose, esp on an older car.

but btw these pics are with the damper installed correctly.

 
Rep Power: 182

Whoa... I didn't even know such a thing existed...
Does that offer the same benefits as solid motor mounts, or is it slightly different? One thing's for sure, it looks really cool!

 
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more or less yeah. having used the damper on its softest setting and now having just a front ES poly mount insert (not solid), i can say the damper does quite a bit while the insert does more than stock but not over the top. and after a month or two, the inserts will break in and you will basically be back to the stock feel with almost no extra vibration but still a sturdy mount. the damper was just too much and basically felt like the engine was directly bolted to the chassis. it was neat at first, but the effect wore off after a few weeks. i was actually able to get a chirp from the tires when taking off from a stop with my auto civic. so yeah you get a good amount more power to the wheels. i would say its mostly for race cars and not daily drivers. the advantage is you get a non stop vibrating massage chair lol.

 
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Well from what I understand form the instructions is that it's supposed to be the other way around in your pictures, but like you said its a shock so it shouldn't really matter which way its going I'd assume.

GB I do feel vibrations, and I can feel that it's doing its job quite well too. I just laugh inside at how much you guys think this shakes the car though. I can barely tell. Shifting has improved at least 50% cornering at least 50% better power to the wheels feels great too.

I only really notice it vibrating more inbetween shifts and sometimes at idle. Only time you can really tell when its bad is when I turn the A/C on.

Edit: I also put my damper on the opposite side of where you mounted yours on the engine mount bracket.

 
Rep Power: 812

the ingalls info was incorrect, and i guess they never changed it after they said they would. but yeah i imagine something with your modified install is helping. installed the way i had it, the car was almost not driveable and sounded like a v12 at idle.

 
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Mine might be done incorrectly, but vibrations are a insignificant problem now.

 
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What did I do today?

Stared at it wishing I had the answer to what ECU I need for a JDM d15B 3 Stage Vtec (obd2) going into a 99 ex

 
Rep Power: 189

u need a p08 and an obd2b to obd1 conversion harness...if you can find a p08 anyways.

another way people make the 3 stage work is a vtec ecu with an rpm activated switch (msd makes good ones) for the vtec-e solenoid. then you would need a tune since the ecu wont work for the vtec-e because the stock fuel maps will be wrong. and you will run too rich in low rpm's.

 
Rep Power: 189

my bad i thought u said obd1. if the d15 is an obd2 engine u need a p2j ecu since you are obd2b though you will still need an obd2b to obd2a conversion, unless you used the d15b harness instead of your y8

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-96-98-Ci...ht_2586wt_1123

 
Rep Power: 182

Rolled my fenders today like a boss, using my friends prehistoric heat gun and a dead-blow mallet. All went well, but I may have accidentally put a small crease in the driver's side fender. Luckily after a few hours in the sun, it popped out. Otherwise... no more eating tires! No rubbing! Wooo!
I should've done this months ago...

 
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Finally had time to install the passenger side window on my '97 coupe. Some ________ broke into the car to steal an old GPS, that I barely use, which was in the glove compartment. Detailed the inside. By the way, I know that this is off topic but water is leaking into the trunk. Anyone have an idea of what may be causing this?

 
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m3gach33zy: please make your pics a little bigger next time; i had to get my magnifying glass out to see those..

j007bond: is your trunk lid seating all the way down and latching correctly? probably just the weather stripping..


tuned up and washed makes my civic and i happy

 
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Finally got around to replacing my shifter bushings. She drives so nice now!

 
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I had the same problem with my last civic. Water would roll into the back seats when I took turns or came to a stop too quickly. My problem was a weak seal along my taillights and trunk, water just drained right into the belly of the trunk when it rained.

 
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Thank you. I really appreciate it. Tired of all that water taking up trunk space.