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well clint, im afraid skipbarber is right, this is gonna be no small process, i do not envy you, well i do, cuz ur turbo, but this is not gonna be fun, sorry bro

 
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ok well i had a five hour drive today i started thinking about your car speedfoos, sad i know, and i had a thought about your oil. I remember that you said you run 5w-30 oil in your car. I also remember reading that if you use a heavy oil that the honda oil pumps , i believe it was on d-series i found this, that the stock oil pump can have troubles keeping up the pressure. So i thought that mixed with the oil leak that Andyman was talking about could have caused your problem with lack of "lube." it might be kind of a long shot but i thought i might through it out there.

also any word on the carrillo rods? do you know if they are only FI? maybe a possible NA? thanks man

 
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No biggie then. Tranny will come out tonight! Wish I had taken better pics when I had it out the other weekend. I can only make out B....B on it!

Yeah but 5W30 isn't that heavy and I'm pretty sure 98% of the turbo guys have been running that weight since Tom Cruise created turbos with his witchcraft. The D17 and D16 oil pumps are different from what I understand and the D17s don't have that same weakness, requiring shimming. I never had a pressure drop.

No word on the Carillos still. I just ended buying Bob's used Crowers. Carillos were designed for FI though. No reason you couldn't use them for NA, they'll just be heavier, but still strong enough to handle high-comp pistons.

 
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I run 10-30, I'd never run a boosted car with anything lighter...

 
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Yeah, she gets thicker dino pee on this next go-round, that's for sure. Blech. Really don't feel like pulling the tranny tonight. Gonna have to wait till after open court volleyball. At least I know none of my tranny bolts will be seized and that I can pull it out from the top once the water neck comes off (thanks again Rufus!).

 
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Here's a dumb question.

OK, so once I pop my tranny off tomorrow (too tired and too many beers tonight), I get the codes to determine which bearings I should need. I order the 12 crank bearings (2 extra for my temp fix) as per the chart, plus the appropriate plastigage. Now when installing the new bearings, there's a good possibility that I may need to use some different sized bearings depending on the wear I've put on the crank, right after checking the clearance with the plastigage? Theoretically, none of the stock-sized bearings could fit anymore and I may need to mix and match sizes to get the proper clearance right?

So instead of ordering 12 bearings, I might need to order a whole ****load more in case I need to cover a different size range right?

Or am I just being paranoid?

 
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that makes sense and is a great question. i do not know the answer but i will look around elsewhere to find out.

 
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Normally you would measure the crankshaft on each journal and record each journal's size to determine any out of roundness and if it is at all under sized. I suggest that after you polish the journal to get the brass scoring off, you measure it. I don't know in what increments new bearing are available. I suspect that you will need only a set of stock bearing for that one journal. I would hold off on buying the other until you tear down the engine and measure all the crank journals

 
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you can't mix and match bearings, the upper and lower halves of the bearings must be the same.

 
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Buh bye.

 
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the block and crank i used had 16k on it. the bearings it called for were almost too tight. my other block and crank on the other hand, would probably need undersized bearings because id need to have the crank turned..

 
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Oversized is what you meant, right? Since you would have had to have the crank turned (taking material off) which would result in needing a bigger bearing to take up that slack. Hmm, OK. I'll just order stockers and size up when tomorrow then.

I rolled the other half of the main bearing out this morning and it's just as dorked up. I'm going to polish the brass marks off the crank with some 800 grit tomorrow and pull the tranny. The only thing I did on it this morning was get the other bearing half out and break loose the axle spindle nuts. I had to help my buddy fix his wife's truck today.

 
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so whats the update clint, any pics of the journals?? or other bearings?? im curious to see the damage

 
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Damn, sorry Clint....I had to go outta town for a day....looks like all your questions have been answered.........I can get you the part numbers but like everyone has stated before. You need a measurement to know which you need. Sounds like you got it down now.

I wouldn't worry about a temp fix now. There is no temp fix. If that bearing is damaged I worry about that crank being damaged. I wouldn't drive it period. Take her back to the states and do it properly. Then you'll have a completely built 300+WHP SOHC civic done the right way. Plus you haven't done any permanent damage to the block or head. You temp fix it, drive it,. and you're gonna have some expensive paper weights

Just my 2 cents man! Just remember now matter how frustrated you get....It's just nuts & bolts man!!

 
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they call thicker bearings undersized.

 
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Buh bye.

 
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well that to me... just my opinion sounds like a good plan clint!

 
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http://www.aftermarketnews.com/defau...Text&item=6162

 
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OK, now that makes more sense after reading that article. Bookmarked and rep for you Edwin!

 
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Tranny is ready to come out - but as usual, my help didn't show up. It gets old doing this **** by myself all the time.

 
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Buh bye.

 
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WOW... lol like they say you learn something new everyday clint!

 
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I was expecting your gremlins to be laughing back.

 
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Just got caught up on this thread...back from before Christmas.

Clint, it sounds like you don't have the factory manual. Check your PM for a burnt offering.

There are options regarding the oil pump and increasing it's pressure. Maybe I'll post up another thread if there's some interest...

 
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Buh bye.

 
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Not to kick you in the nuts but when you use the grinder to do that, I'm pretty sure you are supposed to keep the wheel flat on the steel surface to keep from having high and low spots. The idea is to keep it as flat as possible to get as much contact as you can with the disk. It will prolly be fine but if it slips you'll know why, hehe.

 
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Oh man, I need some tips to get the lady wrenching on my car with me.

 
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Eh last time a lady "helped" me I ended up with this:

 
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Well, from a performance aspect, isn't that the best way to run the piping? That would result in the coolest air charge into the engine, right?

Lol, Just playing.

 
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Well, I didn't marry my wife for her brains but she did all right! Looks like you made a similar choice Rufus. Hope she was hot!

Yeah Gerry, I'm not too worried if the clutch starts slipping as I'll soon be past the torque rating of the pressure plate and will need a new one anyway. This was just to make sure that my squeak goes away once I replace that main bearing.