02fpcivic

Foos if I'da known you needed a clutch tool I probably had a spare kicking around that I coulda sent with the manifold.

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

Thanks, I didn't know I needed it until a little while ago. Oh well, I can improvise.

I hear you guys about the ISB, but the noise would change it's tone/frequency/pitch etc.. when you're futzing with the clutch and the tranny. None of that business affects it. I'll check the clutch pedal play and see what's after I check the starter. I'll check the starter bolts for play first, if they're tight, it's coming off and then I'll warm up the car to see if the squeal comes back.

If it does then the tranny and pressure plate are coming out so i can have a look at the flywheel and both bearings to see if they are behaving.

Yeah I figured I was seriously degrading the life of the tranny, I just need the sumbitch to last until I get back to the states so I can go junkyard hoppin' to get new ones.

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

****ing POS Harbor Freight impact wrench.

Well it's officially not the starter. And I officially can't get the spindle nuts off with my aforementioned impact. So that means the axles don't come out and therefore neither does the tranny today. Looks like I'm going to do this in 7 hours or less at the hobby shop this week. Yay.

Gonna go put a drop on my buddy's CRV now. I hate cars.

CivicHatch9one

iTrader: (2)

lol ive learned the hard way:harbor freight. has cool cheap tools, and they are cheap for a reason.

that sucks clint. good luck yet again.

i know what you mean. nothing ever goes right.. sometimes i just wanna give up on cars but i love em too much.

dopes6070

iTrader: (25)

you actually dont have to remove the axles from the knuckles. Just loosen the lower ball joints and drop the subframe with the LCAs. Then use some really big zip ties to hold the axles up out of the way when you pull them outa the trans. Thats the way I usually do it just so I dont have to fight with the axle nuts. This only works on the manual trans cars tho. You need the extra room when dealing with the AT.

And the easiest way I've found to get the axle nuts off is putting the wheel on without the center cap and setting the car on the ground. Then go to town with a nice big breaker bar and a 32mm socket.

Hope this helps.

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

Ahhhhh, that's a really good ****in' Bob. I wish I had thought of that this morning. Although, my heart really wasn't in it today, to be honest.

We were able to put the drop on my buddy's CRV. KYB shocks dropped on Eibachs, 1.8 in the front, 1.5 in the rear, with new Moog ball joints and Ingall's front and rear camber kits. Went pretty smooth and we didn't break anything, I was really surprised. With the Progress endlinks and sway bars, it actually handles really nice now for late 90s big green lunch box. I also bribed the guy at the hobbyshop with the promise of breakfast if he opens it at 0800 on Wednesday to let me stay for the whole day to do this properly on a lift.

Yeah, I do get tired of wrenching on the Civic sometimes. But I played a little on the way. I haven't ever really dumped the clutch on the car since putting the turbo on. I did tonight and was really neat to just spin 1st through 2nd with barely any forward motion, a little side-to-side tracking without the e-brake on! Good times.

k20em2504

iTrader: (2)

looking good foos

all you need now is kpro and a driver mod lol

k20em2504

iTrader: (2)

once you get kpro and tune it youll be able to make 300+ horses

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

Well there's that minor detail of a built bottom end too! I want to hit 400 on pump gas just once on the dyno. It's ludicrous to be daily driven at that power level, but that's a notch in my belt that I'm looking to get.

k20em2504

iTrader: (2)

what do you call built? sleeves? or just pistons and rod?

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

Yeah, rods and pistons. No need to sleeve this block especially since I'm keeping the stock bore. The stock sleeves are stout enough to handle. I may run a block guard, but that's about it.

tfnaaf

iTrader: (2)

another way to break the axle nuts lose is to stick a screw driver in the vents of the rotor and rotate the screw driver against the brake caliper to keep it from turning and use a breaker bar. This is how i usually torq the axle nuts but it will work the same to remove them

ronaldo9

iTrader: (6)

LOL I reckon he could make 300whp after he installs the pistons and ups the boost but might need bigger injectors depending on what his duty cycle was. That GT30 is a monster. I feel like the more power he makes the more **** is going to keep breaking. Stay at 8 pounds and call it day lol.

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

Now where is the fun in staying at 8 pounds Ron? Think of it this way, **** should only break once and then it gets replaced with something better. I'll win this war of attrition with my car!

Considering that it's only 40 more hp to hit 300 (probably what, 3-4 psi?) that should be no problem. I'm not sure what my injector duty cycle is at on these 577cc jobbers. I won't know until I go k-pro so I'll wait until then to determine my next injector upgrade. Deatsch makes drop-in 750cc high-impedance injectors so those will probably fit the bill.

I had a pry bar wedged in there Tom, but didn't really want to get on it too much for fear of that sucker flying out. I'll have an extra set of hands to help me on Wednesday and some proper kit to do it right.

k20em2504

iTrader: (2)

i still say kpro and a good tune will get you 300 on 8 psi

260 is low considering you have a turbo cam and the head is pnp

you need to scrap the pcs xfc and get kpro

Rufus

iTrader: (17)

I'm driving on Kpro now. Woot!

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

Well, k-pro is on the list and will go in at some point this year. Once it goes in, the built block will be shortly after. I will have a couple tunes for it on dual stage boost controller. One for 8.7psi (Tial small Blue spring) for daily driving, and then a second stage for about 17 psi (doubled the WG spring, don't want to go any higher than that with a boost controller), with a label of "Fun Button". So we'll see what 8.7 psi and 17psi get me on this car.

7thgen_vic

iTrader: (3)

WOOOOOT! glad to see you on the dyno finally my friend =)

265, wow. thats friggen awesome bro!~!

7thgen_vic

iTrader: (3)

hey foos, check out my auction and look at the list if you hasnt seen it yet. depressing all the stuff i got done in her and finally tuned... very sad.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda...em290209089017


http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y95...EN/7THGENSALE/

andyman97

iTrader: (14)

You don't need two maps, brotha.

dopes6070

iTrader: (25)

Ya if you get it tuned for 17PSI then you can put the boost anywhere below there for daily driving on the same tune. I was running 14lbs on 91 octane and to go any higher I had to put in a bit of 100 octane.

7thgen_vic

iTrader: (3)

Ok, due to so many people asking for pictures, i have uploaded most of what i got (still a few more if i keep digging through hard drives) to photobucket. Check out the subfolders.

I have also uploaded a few videos me and my friend took yesterday (sunday 2.34.08) of the car and a few pulls on the interstate, etc... to show the car is fine. I believe due to the back being a little messed up it was affecting the top end after 100mph, i remmebered it being a little quicker from 80 to 135... feel free to email me with questions. thanks!


http://s252.photobucket.com/albums/hh33/7thgen_vic/

http://www.youtube.com/nickbme06

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

Buh bye.

DaGriz

"So yeah, I'm about out of ideas after I pull the pan and look at it. Noise is the same as ever and didn't start until the car was completely warmed up, sitting at idle"

Okay, by using process of elimination and some logical deduction I would suspect that it could be : 1.) Half spun rod bearing or 2.) half spun main bearing or 3.) oil pump. As you said, it starts AFTER engine is warm, which means the oil is thinned out somewhat from being warm When you first start it crankcase oil is thicker do to being cold. That alone points toward the oil pump. If the noise does not get any higher in pitch or tone when you increase the RPM's; it is probably not a rod or main bearing

BUT....these are just the thoughts of an old man without hearing the noise first hand!!

andyman97

iTrader: (14)

I doubt its a bearing, he'd be hearing knock, if anything. Probably a bearing in your water pump.....

tfnaaf

iTrader: (2)

thats sounds very likely

FoSho

Well water pump, tensioner pulley, oil pump....etc.....are all very well your issue. But I thought you said you isolated it to the opposite side of your engine? I have seen cars transfer noise in strange ways but that noise sounds pretty loud....I would think it would be hard to miss. I believe Clint even took all the belts off, isolating any issues.....

Clint, by the time your done with your car you should come work for me...you're gonna be a master tech! Good diagnosin man! Shame on the transmission. Glade someone else is having just as much fun as I am! ahah!

One note? Did you try turning the diff/final drive(axle input area?) anything abnormal?

P.S. > I have seen a **** load of water pumps fail on cars....they usually growl...never heard one squeal especially like that. I have never ever ever ever seen an oil pump fail let alone make noise on toyotas or hondas! Oil pumps are made at a very high stress level! Just my 2 cents!

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

Buh bye.

FoSho

No way it's lower engine....no way.......one way to rule it out. Drop that pan....you'll see the hot spots if there is any issues.....it will be apparently darker than any other areas...almost stained dark if you will.

andyman97

iTrader: (14)

Have your flywheel and pressure plate resurfaced....