Full Review on Hayame Coilovers
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thanks boilermaker, that seems like a pretty detailed diy...i just wasn't sure if the install process would be the same for the hayame's.
me, evol, and maybe zzyzx are gonna try and install it as soon as Rob ships it and gets it to my house.
VNlilMAN, were there any unexpected snags you ran into when you were installing it?
me, evol, and maybe zzyzx are gonna try and install it as soon as Rob ships it and gets it to my house.
VNlilMAN, were there any unexpected snags you ran into when you were installing it?
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The Standard One
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From: City of Angels, California, US
Rep Power: 416 only minor little thing was they didnt include a nut for the brake like(since its attached to the stock strut). All i did was use zip ties.
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From: Washington DC
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^^^ just reuse the stock hardware. Thats what I did.
If you need new bolts, the stock one for the brake line is an M7x1, 16mm long
The ABS line is an M6x1, 12mm long.
If you need new bolts, the stock one for the brake line is an M7x1, 16mm long
The ABS line is an M6x1, 12mm long.
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The Standard One
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From: City of Angels, California, US
Rep Power: 416 My badd, i meant nut. The nut was welded onto the stock strut and hayame didnt include one. that was the only minor set back. wasnt really a big deal and didnt feel like going to the store just for 2 nuts so ya i just used zip ties
Originally posted by VNlilMAN
My badd, i meant nut. The nut was welded onto the stock strut and hayame didnt include one. that was the only minor set back. wasnt really a big deal and didnt feel like going to the store just for 2 nuts so ya i just used zip ties
My badd, i meant nut. The nut was welded onto the stock strut and hayame didnt include one. that was the only minor set back. wasnt really a big deal and didnt feel like going to the store just for 2 nuts so ya i just used zip ties
I also used zip ties, but the second day I went to AutoZone and bought two nuts.
Got mine today.
VNlilMAN, feel free to use these pics in this thread if you need to better explain them. You can add text to them to make your descriptions clearer if you want. If you'd like for me to take pics of them in certain areas, let me know while they're off my car.
VNlilMAN, feel free to use these pics in this thread if you need to better explain them. You can add text to them to make your descriptions clearer if you want. If you'd like for me to take pics of them in certain areas, let me know while they're off my car.
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From: NEW JERSEY, USA
Rep Power: 0 did you get yours from http://www.urbanimport.com/? I was just wondering if they were in stock and if you used that discount code?
Originally posted by jays2002ex
did you get yours from http://www.urbanimport.com/? I was just wondering if they were in stock and if you used that discount code?
did you get yours from http://www.urbanimport.com/? I was just wondering if they were in stock and if you used that discount code?
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Rep Power: 0 How much load should i put on the springs by screwing the 1st and 2nd lock nut up. I mean i want a better handling and a stiffer ride but i dont want it to ride like a tank. Also how can i tell how much load is on it, when the car is jacked up should you be able to twist the spring or not. If i put to much load on the springs will it make the car have more squeaks and rattles because its to stiff or what. The reason i am asking is that i have a bunch of clunks and rattles since i put the springs on and am trying to figure out what it might be. Who can help?
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The Standard One
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From: City of Angels, California, US
Rep Power: 416 what kind of clunks and what kind of rattles?
If you get a popping when you turn the wheel at slow speeds, check the 3rd lock nut. i found out it makes that noise when its loose. Also loosen the preload on the front. I have my preload just enough so that the spring doesnt move up and down but ya its really loose still. I found that puts less stress on the 3rd locknut.
If you get a popping when you turn the wheel at slow speeds, check the 3rd lock nut. i found out it makes that noise when its loose. Also loosen the preload on the front. I have my preload just enough so that the spring doesnt move up and down but ya its really loose still. I found that puts less stress on the 3rd locknut.
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Rep Power: 0 The front makes a clunky sqweak when i hit small bumps or holes at slow speeds and the back makes a high pitch rattle and clank noise when i go over rough roads or bumpy roads at slow speeds like when driving thru parking lots, but at high speeds i dont really have any bad sounds i just cant figure it out
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From: Washington DC
Rep Power: 424 Something is loose. Go recheck all your torques. You can preload the springs as much as you jolly well please, if they're tight, then they shouldn't be rattling. Ideally, pay the money to get them cornerweighted so the car is balanced. Either make sure the perch is tight to the locknut or maybe you have a bolt loose. If you only torqued it all down when you first installed them, chances are something has settled since then and is loose.
VNlilMAN how is your ride? Can you tell me how much preload should I put on the front and rear, for the smoothest ride possible. Don't care about performance that, much, I want a nice ride, and right now its really bumpy. Thanks.
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From: Washington DC
Rep Power: 424 Originally posted by tripledoublegs
VNlilMAN how is your ride? Can you tell me how much preload should I put on the front and rear, for the smoothest ride possible. Don't care about performance that, much, I want a nice ride, and right now its really bumpy. Thanks.
VNlilMAN how is your ride? Can you tell me how much preload should I put on the front and rear, for the smoothest ride possible. Don't care about performance that, much, I want a nice ride, and right now its really bumpy. Thanks.
Assuming they're linear springs, which they should be. So the best ride will be at 0 preload, the locking perch is just holding the spring in place.
Originally posted by Boilermaker1
More preload=more spring rate=firmer ride
Assuming they're linear springs, which they should be. So the best ride will be at 0 preload, the locking perch is just holding the spring in place.
More preload=more spring rate=firmer ride
Assuming they're linear springs, which they should be. So the best ride will be at 0 preload, the locking perch is just holding the spring in place.
How is your ride with JIC's??
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From: Washington DC
Rep Power: 424 Its firm, but not jarring. I can feel big bumps but the little ones aren't really intrusive. Being able to adjust the shocks is a definite plus.
