Full Review on Hayame Coilovers
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From: pHiLLy
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i have a question..i just installed my Hayames today..took me and my boys a good 4 hours..ran into problems..but anyways..i have it the hieght i want it..but wen it ride every BUMP i hit.. it bounces like a mother fuccer..how do i stiffing the strut ? do i have to take it all out again and do it all over?
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The Standard One
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Rep Power: 416 Try putting a lot of preload on the rear and none on the front
i still have to play with it a little more tho but thats the best setting i found so far
no you dont have to take it apart.
I posted instructions a couple times before
Basically the rear, tighten the perch(1st and 2nd locknut) as high as you can. I found out when it gets tight, turning the spring helps raise it.
The front, just tighten the perch so that the spring doesnt move around freely
i still have to play with it a little more tho but thats the best setting i found so far
no you dont have to take it apart.
I posted instructions a couple times before
Basically the rear, tighten the perch(1st and 2nd locknut) as high as you can. I found out when it gets tight, turning the spring helps raise it.
The front, just tighten the perch so that the spring doesnt move around freely
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The Standard One
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From: City of Angels, California, US
Rep Power: 416 the 3rd locknut is to adjust the height of the car
the 1st and 2nd is to adjust the preload
yes adjust the 1st and 2nd(the ones right below the spring) on the rear as high as you can without having to use too much force
the front, just adjust it so the spring doesnt move around
after than use the 3rd locknut to adjust it to your desire height.
the 1st and 2nd is to adjust the preload
yes adjust the 1st and 2nd(the ones right below the spring) on the rear as high as you can without having to use too much force
the front, just adjust it so the spring doesnt move around
after than use the 3rd locknut to adjust it to your desire height.
Originally posted by VNlilMAN
Try putting a lot of preload on the rear and none on the front
i still have to play with it a little more tho but thats the best setting i found so far
no you dont have to take it apart.
I posted instructions a couple times before
Basically the rear, tighten the perch(1st and 2nd locknut) as high as you can. I found out when it gets tight, turning the spring helps raise it.
The front, just tighten the perch so that the spring doesnt move around freely
Try putting a lot of preload on the rear and none on the front
i still have to play with it a little more tho but thats the best setting i found so far
no you dont have to take it apart.
I posted instructions a couple times before
Basically the rear, tighten the perch(1st and 2nd locknut) as high as you can. I found out when it gets tight, turning the spring helps raise it.
The front, just tighten the perch so that the spring doesnt move around freely
VNlilMAN... I got my alignment done about a week ago. If I adjust the suspension again, do I have to get it done again or what?
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Rep Power: 0 Did anyone else get one from Mike that the rear base is all the way up and stuck that way? I went to get an alignment and they said that I was too low and etc without rolling the fenders and my toe and camber was off quite a bit. I had to get a camber kit and tune it up some more including bringing it up a inch or so. The bad thing was my rear bases were all the way up and I couldn't get them to come down for the life of me so I just had to preload the springs quite a bit to bring the back up. Not only that I realized there was a lobed nut back behind the lower control arm that controls the toe in the rear. Pretty cool. just have to give an update- Laters
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Originally posted by tripledoublegs
^^ I got the same problem.
^^ I got the same problem.
Mine kinda *clumks* harder than normal now too, but I just figured it was the heigher spring rate or I left a perch a lil loose. I cheked it though. we'll see tomorrow when I ride it at a higher height. Still welded my exhaust flange downward and I used to hit it a bit more than I like-but I didn't expect to get this low this fast, I actually think these spring rates and such are too low for me. I want to be low and fast, now I just worry about hitting things or going to shops where they can suit the lowered thing....
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From: pHiLLy
Rep Power: 0 i duno but my back is kinda high 2..higher than be4 i think itz like 1 inch drop or maybe stock..duno **** confuse to mess with..dont get the 3 nut shiet..need help how to lower and preload for a good ride.
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From: Littleton, Co
Rep Power: 314 OK...I recently purchased a set of Neuspeed Race springs and kept the stock struts/shocks. BAD IDEA!!! I was hoping they would last until X-mas...but alas...my luck the rear shox are GONE!!! BAD NOISES and POOR RIDE from the rear. (Another tell-tale sign is that THERE IS NO WHEEL GAP ANYMORE!!! Used to be 2 fingers).
My purpose is AUTO CROSS racing. I WAS going to get the TEIN SS setup, but ... after reading all 23 pages of posts...I will prolly go with these.
My Question(s):
1) Does ANYONE auto-x with these? Are they of good enough quality to race? (JIC's are WAY out of the price range!)
2) I read a few pages back that the RSX spring rates are higher than for the Civic....hmmm...this seems beneficial for racing, hence, if I order the RSX set, what modification will I need to do to get them to fit?
3) How soon do you expect the shox to blow? $100 for replacment shox is a GREAT deal, but will they still be available in two years or later? Should I buy two or three extra shox NOW...I'll be pretty hard on them as the CO roads SUCK, and racing is HARD on suspension...so is buying a couple of extras a good idea?
Thanks in advance...(MAN I feel like an idiot for trying to save money and dropping it the cheap way) lol
My purpose is AUTO CROSS racing. I WAS going to get the TEIN SS setup, but ... after reading all 23 pages of posts...I will prolly go with these.
My Question(s):
1) Does ANYONE auto-x with these? Are they of good enough quality to race? (JIC's are WAY out of the price range!)
2) I read a few pages back that the RSX spring rates are higher than for the Civic....hmmm...this seems beneficial for racing, hence, if I order the RSX set, what modification will I need to do to get them to fit?
3) How soon do you expect the shox to blow? $100 for replacment shox is a GREAT deal, but will they still be available in two years or later? Should I buy two or three extra shox NOW...I'll be pretty hard on them as the CO roads SUCK, and racing is HARD on suspension...so is buying a couple of extras a good idea?
Thanks in advance...(MAN I feel like an idiot for trying to save money and dropping it the cheap way) lol
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The Standard One
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From: City of Angels, California, US
Rep Power: 416 " yoo i just made the spring and the 2 nuts tight..so the ride would be better right? and for the 3 nut(hieght ride) wat do i do? just turn it lose or tight? which way is high - low?"
Well it depends on what is better. What i said to do helped stiffen up the rear and reduce bouncing for me. I havnt tried stiffening it more or stiffening the front yet. Just play around with it and find what you like best. the 3rd locknut is what you should use to adjust the height. It locks the bottom mount and keeps it in place.
Crackhead79, the base was stuck that way? how are you adjusting it? your loosening the 3rd locknut and trying to loosen it right? also does it clunk when going over badd road or does it pop when you turn the steering wheel. if it clunks than ya you might want to put more preload on it. if it pops make sure the 3rd locknut is tight. If you feel the ride is too soft right now, just put more preload
FattyMcJ, i dont autocross so i cant really say which is better. one feature it does lack for autocrossing is the damper adjustability. to my understanding its pretty important. Although you can adjust the preload and play with soft/stiff settings that way, dont know if its autocross worth with just that feature.
2) yes the rsx ones would definitely would be benificial for autocrossing as the civic spring rates are more for a street application(keep in mind spring rates are the same as teins which are also a street application). Only modifications you may have to do is enlarging the front bolt up front(well to my understanding it varies as 01-02 uses 14mm and 03-04 uses 16mm. The rsx also has both versions out there so it depends on what size the hayames come with). You also need rsx tie rod ends for proper alignment(our stock ones are too short). You also need to shave 1-2mm off the rear lower bracket. other than that i think thats it.
3)unless if you drive like an idiot its not going to blow that fast. keep in mind even stock shocks with neuspeed sports last quite awhile. Full coilovers have shocks that are designed to match their spring rates. Also the fact that you adjust the shcok length and not the compression on it should put less stress on the shocks. so ya in other words, they should last quite a long time. Hayame hasnt been in the market too long but looking at their products, it looks like they're here to stay.
Seeing how everyone isnt used to having 3 locknut i think i should write up a DIY. Only if they werent on my car it'd be easier to show you guys. I'll try to work something out tho...
Well it depends on what is better. What i said to do helped stiffen up the rear and reduce bouncing for me. I havnt tried stiffening it more or stiffening the front yet. Just play around with it and find what you like best. the 3rd locknut is what you should use to adjust the height. It locks the bottom mount and keeps it in place.
Crackhead79, the base was stuck that way? how are you adjusting it? your loosening the 3rd locknut and trying to loosen it right? also does it clunk when going over badd road or does it pop when you turn the steering wheel. if it clunks than ya you might want to put more preload on it. if it pops make sure the 3rd locknut is tight. If you feel the ride is too soft right now, just put more preload
FattyMcJ, i dont autocross so i cant really say which is better. one feature it does lack for autocrossing is the damper adjustability. to my understanding its pretty important. Although you can adjust the preload and play with soft/stiff settings that way, dont know if its autocross worth with just that feature.
2) yes the rsx ones would definitely would be benificial for autocrossing as the civic spring rates are more for a street application(keep in mind spring rates are the same as teins which are also a street application). Only modifications you may have to do is enlarging the front bolt up front(well to my understanding it varies as 01-02 uses 14mm and 03-04 uses 16mm. The rsx also has both versions out there so it depends on what size the hayames come with). You also need rsx tie rod ends for proper alignment(our stock ones are too short). You also need to shave 1-2mm off the rear lower bracket. other than that i think thats it.
3)unless if you drive like an idiot its not going to blow that fast. keep in mind even stock shocks with neuspeed sports last quite awhile. Full coilovers have shocks that are designed to match their spring rates. Also the fact that you adjust the shcok length and not the compression on it should put less stress on the shocks. so ya in other words, they should last quite a long time. Hayame hasnt been in the market too long but looking at their products, it looks like they're here to stay.
Seeing how everyone isnt used to having 3 locknut i think i should write up a DIY. Only if they werent on my car it'd be easier to show you guys. I'll try to work something out tho...
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From: Littleton, Co
Rep Power: 314 I see....well ANYTHING is better than stock, lol. And this HAS to be better than blown shox with springs! lol
Again, I wasn't prepaired for this, so I think this is my best bet for the limited funds available right now.
THANKS FOR THE INPUT!!!
Again, I wasn't prepaired for this, so I think this is my best bet for the limited funds available right now.
THANKS FOR THE INPUT!!!
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From: Washington DC
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Seeing how everyone isnt used to having 3 locknut i think i should write up a DIY. Only if they werent on my car it'd be easier to show you guys. I'll try to work something out tho...
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The Standard One
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From: City of Angels, California, US
Rep Power: 416 are you sure tein basics fit without any mods? cause from my understanding em2s use a 14mm bolt(well atleast 01-02) while the ep3s use a 16mm.
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From: Washington DC
Rep Power: 424 Guys... this seriously is not hard. Look:
To Lower... tighten B1 and B2 until they're together and locked. Loosen A. Put the spanner wrench on B1 and turn clockwise. Re-lock A at the new height.
To Raise... Tighten B1 and B2 until they're together and locked. Loosen A, put the spanner on B2 and turn counter clockwise. Re-lock A.
To preload, loosen B1 from B2. Turn counter clockwise on B1 until the spring reaches desired pre-load, tighten with B2. This really should be done by cornerweighting if you really want to get the most out of it and have the car balanced.
I'll scan the actual JIC instruction sheet tomorrow. It has to be the same as these.
To Lower... tighten B1 and B2 until they're together and locked. Loosen A. Put the spanner wrench on B1 and turn clockwise. Re-lock A at the new height.
To Raise... Tighten B1 and B2 until they're together and locked. Loosen A, put the spanner on B2 and turn counter clockwise. Re-lock A.
To preload, loosen B1 from B2. Turn counter clockwise on B1 until the spring reaches desired pre-load, tighten with B2. This really should be done by cornerweighting if you really want to get the most out of it and have the car balanced.
I'll scan the actual JIC instruction sheet tomorrow. It has to be the same as these.
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The Standard One
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From: City of Angels, California, US
Rep Power: 416 i think boiler pretty much covered everything. its really not that hard to adjust. if you have any questions on adjusting it ask and i'll try to describe a way to solve it as best as i can.
