Full Review on Hayame Coilovers
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The Standard One
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Over badd road it rides pretty nice. Keep in mind I have 40s so i still feel cracks but the car doesnt bounce around as much.
Not sure what its set at from factory cause I started to mess around with the settings as soon as i got them
. But what I have now...
-On both front/rear I adjusted the perch as high as I could untill it got tight(well not too tight) to keep a preload on the springs(so the springs cant move around).
-Front: looking at the bottom of the casing I probably have the shock .5-1" away from the end of the casing(when you see the hayames you'll probably know what i'm talking about).
-Rear: On the bottom mount there are these holes that give you an idea of where the thread is. I adjusted it so that the threads barely cover the hole.
-I probably have about 1/2 a finger gap all around right now with this setup on my 215-40-18s
Ok you know how I said the rear kinda felt a little soft. That was when i barely had the rear springs preloaded. I put the perch even higher to put more preload on the springs and it feels stiffer. I cant comfirm this because only drive around the block but i'm pretty sure it did. I'll let you guys know for sure tomorrow.
Not sure what its set at from factory cause I started to mess around with the settings as soon as i got them
. But what I have now...-On both front/rear I adjusted the perch as high as I could untill it got tight(well not too tight) to keep a preload on the springs(so the springs cant move around).
-Front: looking at the bottom of the casing I probably have the shock .5-1" away from the end of the casing(when you see the hayames you'll probably know what i'm talking about).
-Rear: On the bottom mount there are these holes that give you an idea of where the thread is. I adjusted it so that the threads barely cover the hole.
-I probably have about 1/2 a finger gap all around right now with this setup on my 215-40-18s
Ok you know how I said the rear kinda felt a little soft. That was when i barely had the rear springs preloaded. I put the perch even higher to put more preload on the springs and it feels stiffer. I cant comfirm this because only drive around the block but i'm pretty sure it did. I'll let you guys know for sure tomorrow.
Originally posted by PunkingCivic
Nice
check the group buy section for the deal from Dezod.
he is doing a on the down low group buy deal.
6 for $575
10 for $545
Nice
check the group buy section for the deal from Dezod.
he is doing a on the down low group buy deal.
6 for $575
10 for $545
1) Hayame was backorderd on the 01 Civic application from August to November. I checked with all the Hayame distributors trying to find this application during that time and everybody was sold out. In November Hayame got ~20 sets of the 01 Civic in. We bought 15 of those. Since then we have also had 2 sets shipped to customers directly from Hayame. I talked to them this afternoon and they have 1 set left. This means there have only been 2 sets bought by other distributors unless they still have some left over from before August which I doubt but I guess it is possible. I think we have 6 sets in stock right now. Hayame doesn't know when they will be getting more 01 Civic in but they aren't back in production so saying they started making them tomorrow it would take 2 weeks to manufacture and prepare to ship then another 3-5 weeks to ship from the factory.
2) Our rep could find no record showing that Dezdod buys from them or that they are an authorized Hayame dealer which means the 1 yr warranty we offer on our kits is not valid will not be honored if purchased through someone who is not an authorized dealer.
We have the coilovers in stock, they ship out the same day your order is placed, no group buy needed and have a warranty.
Thread Starter
The Standard One
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Ya I can vouch for www.urbanimport.com They worked with me and got them to me 2 days after they received my payment.
Just to clear things up, these DONT come with a camber plate but they do come with a an extended hole for the top bolt so that you can adjust the camber. Its at the exact same spot a spc or ingalls camber kit would be. If you have a front camber kit already I suggest you keep it off(your going to take it out when you install regardless) but you can still use it if you want to(which is pointless tho because you really dont need it).
Obviously you would still need a camber kit for the rear tho.
I'll try to take pictures tomorrow. Sorry but it'll only be through the wheel wells tho. Too lazy to take off the rims.
Just to clear things up, these DONT come with a camber plate but they do come with a an extended hole for the top bolt so that you can adjust the camber. Its at the exact same spot a spc or ingalls camber kit would be. If you have a front camber kit already I suggest you keep it off(your going to take it out when you install regardless) but you can still use it if you want to(which is pointless tho because you really dont need it).
Obviously you would still need a camber kit for the rear tho.
I'll try to take pictures tomorrow. Sorry but it'll only be through the wheel wells tho. Too lazy to take off the rims.
I need TP for my bunghole
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I just posted it so I don't know dezod's dealing with hayame.
I could go through SPW ( http://www.spwindustries.com/ ) in oxnard but they would probibly try to sell them to me for more.
I could go through SPW ( http://www.spwindustries.com/ ) in oxnard but they would probibly try to sell them to me for more.
Registered!!
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Originally posted by UrbanImport
Hayame doesn't know when they will be getting more 01 Civic in but they aren't back in production
Hayame doesn't know when they will be getting more 01 Civic in but they aren't back in production
So Hayame isnt making these anymore now? Thats kinda discouraging...
Hey everyone. I just got my Hayame coilovers. Mike at urban import is real cool and very prompt for shipping. I had mine overnighted and man is it worth it. I just pulled them out of the box and tommorow me and a bud are putting the car on the lift and will install the kit.
Anyways I have a question. I am not too familiar with full sleeved coil overs but can someone explain to me how that bottom piece works ( i mean that thing that screws on and that ring you can adjust). The part that holds the knuckle in place can spin all the way around up and down the thread. so how are these really supposed to be set up. I turned the front piece all the way up to the of the spring and it exposes the strut and threads.
Anyways I have a question. I am not too familiar with full sleeved coil overs but can someone explain to me how that bottom piece works ( i mean that thing that screws on and that ring you can adjust). The part that holds the knuckle in place can spin all the way around up and down the thread. so how are these really supposed to be set up. I turned the front piece all the way up to the of the spring and it exposes the strut and threads.
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The Standard One
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ok there's 3 locknuts right... from top to bottom we'll label them 1, 2 and 3...
1 and 2 is the spring perch(what the spring sits on). you want to adjust 1 so that the spring doesnt move around freely(this is called preload). now you want to move 2 up to 1 so that it doesnt spin easily. Use the tools they provide you to lock them tight. you shouldnt be able to move 1 or 2 without that tool now...
locknut 3, this is what your mainly going to use to adjust the ride height. loosen it up and keep it near 2 or something. now since its off the car you can just simply spin the bottom mounts to where you want it. now when you found the length you want it at(see one of my posts above that says where i set it at), bring back 3 and lock it tight to the bottom mount using the tool so that your not able to spin the bottom mount anymore.
if you need help, just look at the picture, it'll show how the 3 locknuts should go. they should all be tight when they go on the car tho.
As for adjusting them when they're on the car.. leave 1 and 2 alone. there should already be enough preload so that its hard to spin the spring...
loosen 3 and then just spin the entire spring/shock till your desire height. than tighten 3 again.
1 and 2 is the spring perch(what the spring sits on). you want to adjust 1 so that the spring doesnt move around freely(this is called preload). now you want to move 2 up to 1 so that it doesnt spin easily. Use the tools they provide you to lock them tight. you shouldnt be able to move 1 or 2 without that tool now...
locknut 3, this is what your mainly going to use to adjust the ride height. loosen it up and keep it near 2 or something. now since its off the car you can just simply spin the bottom mounts to where you want it. now when you found the length you want it at(see one of my posts above that says where i set it at), bring back 3 and lock it tight to the bottom mount using the tool so that your not able to spin the bottom mount anymore.
if you need help, just look at the picture, it'll show how the 3 locknuts should go. they should all be tight when they go on the car tho.
As for adjusting them when they're on the car.. leave 1 and 2 alone. there should already be enough preload so that its hard to spin the spring...
loosen 3 and then just spin the entire spring/shock till your desire height. than tighten 3 again.
vnlil.. i gotta question for you... when you jack your car up, if you've done that yet, does a gap form between the upper mount and the spring? ie you can easily spin and move the spring? should this happen?
Thread Starter
The Standard One
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no it shouldnt.. thats why i say keep a preload on the springs so that they springs dont come loose and fall out when you jack the car up. thats one advantage of the hayames. teins or any sleeved coilover will do this(b&gs use a helper springs for this)
just jack the car up and adjust the perch so that it doesnt fall out. since this will cause the height to be higher, use the 3rd locknut to lower the car back down
just jack the car up and adjust the perch so that it doesnt fall out. since this will cause the height to be higher, use the 3rd locknut to lower the car back down
Originally posted by VNlilMAN
Now with hayames, since your adjusting the shock length your not compressing the shock 3" just shortening it 3". This way you still keep full stroke and have that 4" of shock travel(not an exact figure) rather than the 1" with ground controls. Thus there is no bottoming out.
Now with hayames, since your adjusting the shock length your not compressing the shock 3" just shortening it 3". This way you still keep full stroke and have that 4" of shock travel(not an exact figure) rather than the 1" with ground controls. Thus there is no bottoming out.
VNlilMAN you said look at the pic. What pic?
Also I know there is some way to measure from the 3rd locknut and to the second lock nut to determine ride height. Is this possiable or is there is any mathamatical way to do this?
Also I know there is some way to measure from the 3rd locknut and to the second lock nut to determine ride height. Is this possiable or is there is any mathamatical way to do this?
Thread Starter
The Standard One
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Yes they will work on the sedan.
when you order put in the coupon code 'hayamegb'
go alot faster than 5mph when hitting speedbumps??? what kind of speedbumps do you have there? i barely remember hitting speedbumps at 5mph with stock suspension. have to remember your car is lowered, going over speed bumps fast is going to cause your car to crash down and hit the speedbump. thats why people take them at an angle most of the time.
I'm sure there is some sort of mathematical way but its too hard for my brain. Measuring the distance from 2 to 3 would work BUT it also depends on how much preload there is... if you really want pm me with your number and i'll call with step by step instructions
when you order put in the coupon code 'hayamegb'
go alot faster than 5mph when hitting speedbumps??? what kind of speedbumps do you have there? i barely remember hitting speedbumps at 5mph with stock suspension. have to remember your car is lowered, going over speed bumps fast is going to cause your car to crash down and hit the speedbump. thats why people take them at an angle most of the time.
I'm sure there is some sort of mathematical way but its too hard for my brain. Measuring the distance from 2 to 3 would work BUT it also depends on how much preload there is... if you really want pm me with your number and i'll call with step by step instructions


