Rep Power: 812

yeah i put rust dissolver, then primer, then paint, but rust always comes back either in the same places or different ones. i thinks it starts from the inside or something, and it doesnt help they salt the roads all the time. im waiting for the exhaust to crumble into pieces any day now.

 
Rep Power: 188

i hate seeing nice oem alloys put through the rattle can torture. idk why but everyone around here likes painting fat fives blue and red, and doing a horrible job.
im saving up money for a set of oem hfp rims. i believe their ss7's? they look pretty close to the same as yours.

 
Rep Power: 0

i put on a new muffler,out with the old in with the new shiny one

 
Rep Power: 0

The guy that sold me the car said they are original hfp 16's. When I was cleaning the paint off of it, it said made in thailand in the rear. I have to google one day and see if where the honda hfp wheels are made. It has that JWL looking symbol on them so, i am pretty sure they are honda factory wheels. But anyways, I am going to do another rim tomorrow since its nice out. All this so my rims would look good for the winter. I am trying to get either the xxr 522 or rota grid for this car this summer with summer tires. I wanted to sell them originally and get the 00 si rims for winter since its a smaller rim I am starting to like these.

 
Rep Power: 812

the JWL symbol ive seen on many aftermarket rims as well, fyi. unless honda started really cheaping out, ive never heard of their parts being made in countries other than japan or usa. usually there is no problem using non oem rims anyway so it doesnt matter.

 
Rep Power: 0

I believe that the JWL symbol was a sign of approval from the manufacturer and not meaning its jdm or made in japan. But I could be wrong. But there is nothing wrong with the rims I have. I just want a gold set or bronze set or rims for my car.

 
Rep Power: 518

Googled: http://www.jwtc.jp/open/html/e/situmon1.html

 
Rep Power: 812

basically one of those useless designations like DOT that means nothing. my old konigs had that symbol too and they were made in china. i've seen more expensive rims with the symbol that have cracked before too. so doesnt seem to be any type of reliable quality rating.

 
Rep Power: 0

Finished the head swap today and started it up. Check engine came on steady, but it sounded ok so I did some rev cycles from ~2800 to 3500rpms. Then after 5 minutes it started to miss and the revs drop at 50% throttle no clue whats wrong. Ice replaced the spark plugs, and rebuilt the head completely and itll run smooth at idle or high rev, but anywhere from 1500-3000 it sounds like a dead cylinder.

I am going to remove the "i heart my honda" sticker now...

 
Rep Power: 174

Not the first time I've heard that one lol

Not today, but last night I practically rebuilt my car from the cat converter up. That was a long day! Got to love when it takes longer than expected. Hey least the car runs perfectly, and the clutch grabs sharply too

 
Rep Power: 229

i used steel whool. it worked like a boss. still took a heller long time, almost 12 hours to stripe and paint the four rims.

 
Rep Power: 229

actually a lot of 7th gen civics including all of the 2002 veloz, special edition civics are made in Mexico. veloz translating to "fast or speed".

http://www.autoblog.com/2011/08/12/h...ars-for-north/

 
Rep Power: 188

lol Roxie's sig cracks me up everytime i see it.

anyways took the back seats and side panel out today to try to pop that huge dent outta my rear quarter...worked...kinda. the rest imma sand and bondo and try to make it look decent. then paint

also anyone know what the orange plugs under the rear seats in a 6th gen are for? their just sitting under the seat not plugged into anything one on each side. 2 wires on both.

 
Rep Power: 0

Did a full oil change, changed the spark plugs and wires (NGK), cleaned her up & took her for a cruise.

 
Rep Power: 0

Got it running a bit smoother and cleared the codes. Not sure how to post a youtube link yet, but check my channel(ragalyisp) sorry for the crappy vid. Will post some better ones this week to my channel.

 
Rep Power: 174

Good! Hahahaha, make sure you click the link if you haven't. Shows that there's someone out there who actually knows the difference

Last night, got my em2 into it's first drag race with her new parts. She sounds, and runs, much better now. I wonder if the clogged air filter, half worn clutch, bad (front) motor mount, and nasty trans fluid was the culprit of me having some bad performance?... Not saying it's drastic, but noticeable since I drive that thing way too much

Today, hopefully going to have the energy to detail the interior, and get the badges back on. Doing a lighter blue backing to the emblem, instead of what everyone else does (the red or dark blue). Little words of wisdom, doing the colored background to the "Civic" badge doesn't look as good as youd think

 
Rep Power: 188

lol some answers on yahoo are hilarious.

+1 on the blue background. i hate seeing the red emblems on dx or lx models...people spend the time to put a red emblem on but dont take the submodel emblem off so it at least looks like a type r and not blatently rice.

and btw youd be suprised how badly a clogged air filter affects performance and throttle response.

anyways today i scraped a little more of the adhesive off the trunk from the ex badge when i pulled it off. it seems to only want to come off when its raining outside. and aparently one of my foglight bulbs went out already...

 
Rep Power: 518

Probably for ABS but your car doesn't have it. ABS usually uses orange connectors.

 
Rep Power: 188

ahh

not that it was important, but i was curious lol.

 
Rep Power: 229

^ohhh ya ABS makes sense, i was thinking maybe optional rear airbags.

 
Rep Power: 174

I love that answer lol. It'll look completely riced later on, but I will have the engine beyond expectations at that point. Performance first, visuals second. That way, people underestimate what you have under the hood. Reverse psychology... only works for some though lol. And I remember the air filter on my Jeep when it was nasty, didn't help at all lol. I amd just overall surprised. Meh, just me lol.

 
Rep Power: 174

Popped off the front bumper so I could do the blue background on the front emblem. Me and my blonde *** forgot that the emblems on the frnot and back aren't the same size... so I had to paint a new sheet of plastic. Waiting for paint to dry, then should have it back on in about an hour. My only downside is that I'm using some left over, artist spray paint. MTN colors is nice... but takes forever to dry. Hey, at least it's a glossy finish, the color doesn't look bad, and this stuff is made to last in the elements (original intent was for graffiti artists lol).

Wish I had gone with a different paint, being that mine is xylene based, but meh. I'm no fan of rusto, krylon, or any other common brands since they're too watery for my taste. I pay a premium for a can of regular aerosol for a reason haha

 
Rep Power: 174

Brought my car in for an alignment since I just had the subframe off. Turns out the wheel bearing is toast on the front passenger hub. Don't know about the rest, but I'm seriously NOT happy. I just spent about $1,200 and now I need more parts. I'm starting to think this thing is just going to end up being sold... haven't caught a break in the last few months on any sort of real reliability. Wtf mate?

 
Rep Power: 0

Finished up the paint job as well as tinting the tails.

 
Rep Power: 198

Last fall I mentioned that I stripped a wheel stud on each wheel. The mechanic fixed the rear 2 on the spot, but said the front 2 would need to be fixed using a press, and I'd need to come back another day. His estimate: $500. Today, on this gorgeous Quebec spring day, I finally got around to trying to fix the problem. My dad picked up a nifty little tool to do the job (cost $7).

20 minutes and a little WD40 later, it's done. The two threads are better than new.



And this is how I felt:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...1z4iFc9o#t=31s

 
Rep Power: 812

does it just recut the threads?

 
Rep Power: 198

Pretty much. Using a socket wrench it was very easy to rethread. The damage wasn't too bad in the first place (I used on M12x1.25 wheel locks by mistake) so there was some cross threading. I couldn't get any lug nuts on. It took about 5 mins on each side and there were quite a bit of metal shavings left over on the ground.

 
Rep Power: 193

Today i did some 0-60 times.....11.5 seconds....i knew it was slow but those are minivan numbers

 
Rep Power: 294

Old school fix, I love it. Just as long as the damage didn't go past 3 or 4 threads, you should be good. Re threading bolts does compromise the integrity a bit, it's more along the lines of reshaping the broken threads into a single pitch again, so the nut/lug will fit but will never be as strong as before. This typically isn't done on high load areas like wheel studs, but whatever works. Haha.

 
Rep Power: 294

Do you have an automatic? Wow!