First post! And.. issue. My 1995 Honda Civic..
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Re: First post! And.. issue. My 1995 Honda Civic..
Chicken. 
See what sort of feedback you can get from there....See if anyone has a legit reason to NOT try this.
Did you google it?
Rope is a technique some consider old school all the way. Hell, I didn't think of it til this afternoon. It's simple and effective ......and I've never had to do it.
It used to be a common method for stopping valves from dropping into a cylinder while the springs were removed.
If you try to hold the pulley with chain or anything, then using the rope is probably pointless.
You are using the rope to stop the crank from turning, so there is no need to hold the pulley in any way.
Besides, I'm afraid you are gonna ruin the pulley by trying to chain it down.
I don't know. Hopefully just the bolt, not tools or anything important inside the engine (aluminum piston, connecting rod, valves).
Like I said, I've never done it.
I'm still waiting to see if anyone else objects to trying this.
See what sort of feedback you can get from there....See if anyone has a legit reason to NOT try this.
Did you google it?
Rope is a technique some consider old school all the way. Hell, I didn't think of it til this afternoon. It's simple and effective ......and I've never had to do it.
It used to be a common method for stopping valves from dropping into a cylinder while the springs were removed.
If you try to hold the pulley with chain or anything, then using the rope is probably pointless.
You are using the rope to stop the crank from turning, so there is no need to hold the pulley in any way.
Besides, I'm afraid you are gonna ruin the pulley by trying to chain it down.
I don't know. Hopefully just the bolt, not tools or anything important inside the engine (aluminum piston, connecting rod, valves).
Like I said, I've never done it.
I'm still waiting to see if anyone else objects to trying this.
I also saw a wrench that I could instead use as a breaker bar instead of the HUGE pipe I bought. Cost $8 less, too.
But yeah.. I think today will be the day I adjust the timing THEN rope it like you said.
This head needs to come off, and an Ingersoll-Rand W7150 costs as much as a D16Z6.. Remember, for some reason, my car was DOWNgraded to a D15Z1. Started life as an EX...
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Re: First post! And.. issue. My 1995 Honda Civic..
think today will be the day I adjust the timing
Besides, can't I putrope in the TWO UP cylinders?
And you can't use multiple cylinders because they will have valves trying to open or close because other cylinders are at different points in their 4-stroke cycles.
Once you try to squeeze the cylinder full of rope it may bend valves if they are open or try to open.
Follow the instructions I wrote.
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/2...ml#post4688889
Do NOT do this unless and until you understand the directions.
And it would help if you understand the reasoning behind WHY I wrote the directions the way I did....you may need to visualize what's happening inside the engine at any point in a crankshaft revolution though.
And, hey.. Don't you mean 9'clock, not 3 o'clock?
I said 3 o'clock, I meant 3 o'clock.
Turn the crank a half turn, the cam goes a quarter turn. 2:1 ratio.
Where I said turn the crank clockwise 180* (timing mark pointing to the ground), I meant exactly that. Cam turns 90* clockwise at that time so the word UP moves to 3 o'clock.
You have to break the bolt loose by turning it counterclockwise and I want the valves closed and piston coming up on the compression stroke so the valves stay shut. This is how you get it to happen.
YOu have the valve cover off you should watch what the valves are doing on #1 as you turn the crank, they should not move on #1 during my instructions.
I'm still waiting to see if anyone else objects to this method.
And HT is on their permanent menstrual cycle, I think. I'm gonna leave them alone.
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Did you have the timing belt removed already?
No because you have to fill the cylinder (stuff lots of rope in) while the piston is at the bottom.
And you can't use multiple cylinders because they will have valves trying to open or close because other cylinders are at different points in their 4-stroke cycles.
Once you try to squeeze the cylinder full of rope it may bend valves if they are open or try to open.
Follow the instructions I wrote.
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/2...ml#post4688889
Do NOT do this unless and until you understand the directions.
And it would help if you understand the reasoning behind WHY I wrote the directions the way I did....you may need to visualize what's happening inside the engine at any point in a crankshaft revolution though.
No.
I said 3 o'clock, I meant 3 o'clock.
Turn the crank a half turn, the cam goes a quarter turn. 2:1 ratio.
Where I said turn the crank clockwise 180* (timing mark pointing to the ground), I meant exactly that. Cam turns 90* clockwise at that time so the word UP moves to 3 o'clock.
You have to break the bolt loose by turning it counterclockwise and I want the valves closed and piston coming up on the compression stroke so the valves stay shut. This is how you get it to happen.
YOu have the valve cover off you should watch what the valves are doing on #1 as you turn the crank, they should not move on #1 during my instructions.
I'm still waiting to see if anyone else objects to this method.
Got a link? LOL
No because you have to fill the cylinder (stuff lots of rope in) while the piston is at the bottom.
And you can't use multiple cylinders because they will have valves trying to open or close because other cylinders are at different points in their 4-stroke cycles.
Once you try to squeeze the cylinder full of rope it may bend valves if they are open or try to open.
Follow the instructions I wrote.
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/2...ml#post4688889
Do NOT do this unless and until you understand the directions.
And it would help if you understand the reasoning behind WHY I wrote the directions the way I did....you may need to visualize what's happening inside the engine at any point in a crankshaft revolution though.
No.
I said 3 o'clock, I meant 3 o'clock.
Turn the crank a half turn, the cam goes a quarter turn. 2:1 ratio.
Where I said turn the crank clockwise 180* (timing mark pointing to the ground), I meant exactly that. Cam turns 90* clockwise at that time so the word UP moves to 3 o'clock.
You have to break the bolt loose by turning it counterclockwise and I want the valves closed and piston coming up on the compression stroke so the valves stay shut. This is how you get it to happen.
YOu have the valve cover off you should watch what the valves are doing on #1 as you turn the crank, they should not move on #1 during my instructions.
I'm still waiting to see if anyone else objects to this method.
Got a link? LOL
Let me go try this again.
And Cyl #1 is closest to the belt...
This is from before...
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Use a long screwdriver or something to pack rope into the cylinder as full as you can get it.
You are gonna pack it as full as you can then when you go to break the bolt loose the piston is gonna try to squeeze all that rope into a 36cc space and there has to be a whole lot more than 36cc of rope volume to stop the piston from completing its upward stroke.
And, uhhh I can't tell where your UP word is in the pic, all I see is one line.
You are gonna pack it as full as you can then when you go to break the bolt loose the piston is gonna try to squeeze all that rope into a 36cc space and there has to be a whole lot more than 36cc of rope volume to stop the piston from completing its upward stroke.
And, uhhh I can't tell where your UP word is in the pic, all I see is one line.
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Use a long screwdriver or something to pack rope into the cylinder as full as you can get it.
You are gonna pack it as full as you can then when you go to break the bolt loose the piston is gonna try to squeeze all that rope into a 36cc space and there has to be a whole lot more than 36cc of rope volume to stop the piston from completing its upward stroke.
And, uhhh I can't tell where your UP word is in the pic, all I see is one line.
You are gonna pack it as full as you can then when you go to break the bolt loose the piston is gonna try to squeeze all that rope into a 36cc space and there has to be a whole lot more than 36cc of rope volume to stop the piston from completing its upward stroke.
And, uhhh I can't tell where your UP word is in the pic, all I see is one line.
Im a little worried.. Engine still wanted to turn? Maybe I didn't have enough rope in there..
Or I need a bigger and more rope.
Maybe I should go get that now since it seems like what I have is not gonna do it..
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If this was true then #1 cylinder would be at the top, not the bottom.
I told you you would be able to turn it some no matter how much rope you pack in. There will still be space to compress the rope, you just have to get more stuffed in than the space it will try to be squeezed into.
Im a little worried.. Engine still wanted to turn? Maybe I didn't have enough rope in there..
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If this was true then #1 cylinder would be at the top, not the bottom.
I told you you would be able to turn it some no matter how much rope you pack in. There will still be space to compress the rope, you just have to get more stuffed in than the space it will try to be squeezed into.
I told you you would be able to turn it some no matter how much rope you pack in. There will still be space to compress the rope, you just have to get more stuffed in than the space it will try to be squeezed into.
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Where I said turn the crank clockwise 180* (timing mark pointing to the ground), I meant exactly that. Cam turns 90* clockwise at that time so the word UP moves to 3 o'clock.
You have to break the bolt loose by turning it counterclockwise and I want the valves closed and piston coming up on the compression stroke so the valves stay shut. This is how you get it to happen.
YOu have the valve cover off you should watch what the valves are doing on #1 as you turn the crank, they should not move on #1 during my instructions.
You have to break the bolt loose by turning it counterclockwise and I want the valves closed and piston coming up on the compression stroke so the valves stay shut. This is how you get it to happen.
YOu have the valve cover off you should watch what the valves are doing on #1 as you turn the crank, they should not move on #1 during my instructions.
I just bought 50 feet of rope.
I am gonna turn the word UP to the DOWN position...
(re-reading) ...
Ok.. THEN turn UP to 3 o'clock and STUFF IN A LOT OF ROPE!
Did I get that right...
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Damn give me 30 SECONDS!
But, still though.. I love you, man.
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You need to turn the crank pulley clockwise a little bit so you can get the rope out now?
(might not matter, you can get it out after the head is lifted up?)
Hopefully you can locate or build a tool to hold the crank pulley before it comes time to tighten the bolt to spec.
Do not lose or misplace the key for the crank pulleys. It's important.
Keep track of which way the beveled plates face.
(might not matter, you can get it out after the head is lifted up?)
Hopefully you can locate or build a tool to hold the crank pulley before it comes time to tighten the bolt to spec.
Do not lose or misplace the key for the crank pulleys. It's important.
Keep track of which way the beveled plates face.
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Video #2, 12 seconds, THose are cam journal bolts, not head bolts. Get your service manual out.
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Vid#1 instead of prying the timing belt, you shoulda removed the lower timing cover to access the tensioner pulley to take tension off the timing belt.
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You are gonna make a mess of rocker shafts and springs and spacers. None of that needs to come out to get the head bolts out.
Vid#1 instead of prying the timing belt, you shoulda removed the lower timing cover to access the tensioner pulley to take tension off the timing belt.
Vid#1 instead of prying the timing belt, you shoulda removed the lower timing cover to access the tensioner pulley to take tension off the timing belt.
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Put them all back in but only finger tight so nothing can move.
BRB lookin for a spec
BRB lookin for a spec
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Yeah but....What are you calling head bolts this time?
I'm havin computer issues here at the moment...
I'm havin computer issues here at the moment...
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Been lookin for torque specs and I'm havin issues gettin the right year info from the site I use.
Looking at a newer 1.7 engine, the rocker shaft bolts that take a 12mm socket (8mm shaft dia.) are listed 14 ft lb, and the bolts that took a 10mm socket (6mm shaft dia.) tighten to 8.7 ft lb..... Yours should be very similar.
I sure hope you have a 1/4 and 3/8 inch drive torque wrenches that will be accurate at those low values.
Looking at a newer 1.7 engine, the rocker shaft bolts that take a 12mm socket (8mm shaft dia.) are listed 14 ft lb, and the bolts that took a 10mm socket (6mm shaft dia.) tighten to 8.7 ft lb..... Yours should be very similar.
I sure hope you have a 1/4 and 3/8 inch drive torque wrenches that will be accurate at those low values.
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Been lookin for torque specs and I'm havin issues gettin the right year info from the site I use.
Looking at a newer 1.7 engine, the rocker shaft bolts that take a 12mm socket (8mm shaft dia.) are listed 14 ft lb, and the bolts that took a 10mm socket (6mm shaft dia.) tighten to 8.7 ft lb..... Yours should be very similar.
I sure hope you have a 1/4 and 3/8 inch drive torque wrenches that will be accurate at those low values.
Looking at a newer 1.7 engine, the rocker shaft bolts that take a 12mm socket (8mm shaft dia.) are listed 14 ft lb, and the bolts that took a 10mm socket (6mm shaft dia.) tighten to 8.7 ft lb..... Yours should be very similar.
I sure hope you have a 1/4 and 3/8 inch drive torque wrenches that will be accurate at those low values.
I had 12mm bolts.
