First post! And.. issue. My 1995 Honda Civic..
05-19-2015
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First post! And.. issue. My 1995 Honda Civic..
Hello, all! 
Firstly, let me say that Honda-Tech are JERKS.. Especially.. well, all of them on there. Unhelpful, rude, JERKS.. I will probably not return. And, of course, my car having issues.. so, here I am! 
Ok. So.. my introduction! Happy to be here. You may call me Joseph, Wild Cranker, WC.. What you like.
My car is a 1995 Honda Civic. 2-door Canada model with sunroof.. EJ1, as the jerks at HT used to obsess over. Unknown head.. I heard "P2J" mentioned. I will post up some pics. Operating from my phone right now. I have a D15Z1 block. High miles, and messed with before I got it.
Issue is that it will "crank and not start." I have the distributor cap off right now, since it appears it will not start by itself. Full tank of gas. Today, it would start and die. Then it started and ran.. stalled in traffic after about a half hour. Then started up after about 15 minutes.. now it just cranks and wont start.
I changed spark plug wires; have it wired correct sequence I believe.
I have a test light and multimeter. I dont see any blown fuses. Main relay seems to be in its usual spot.
Car just turns turns turns and doesnt sound like it wants to catch at all. STARTING FLUID DID NOT APPEAR TO START IT so while I have fuel suspicions, I started the spark route.
I will post pics of my ride but im stuck, and have to get to work tomorrow night.. somehow.
My first post.. and I am happy to be here!
I will make a video of what it is doing...
Firstly, let me say that Honda-Tech are JERKS.. Especially.. well, all of them on there. Unhelpful, rude, JERKS.. I will probably not return. And, of course, my car having issues.. so, here I am! Ok.
So.. my introduction! Happy to be here. You may call me Joseph, Wild Cranker, WC.. What you like.My car is a 1995 Honda Civic. 2-door Canada model with sunroof.. EJ1, as the jerks at HT used to obsess over. Unknown head.. I heard "P2J" mentioned. I will post up some pics. Operating from my phone right now. I have a D15Z1 block. High miles, and messed with before I got it.
Issue is that it will "crank and not start." I have the distributor cap off right now, since it appears it will not start by itself. Full tank of gas. Today, it would start and die. Then it started and ran.. stalled in traffic after about a half hour. Then started up after about 15 minutes.. now it just cranks and wont start.
I changed spark plug wires; have it wired correct sequence I believe.
I have a test light and multimeter. I dont see any blown fuses. Main relay seems to be in its usual spot.
Car just turns turns turns and doesnt sound like it wants to catch at all. STARTING FLUID DID NOT APPEAR TO START IT so while I have fuel suspicions, I started the spark route.
I will post pics of my ride but im stuck, and have to get to work tomorrow night.. somehow.
My first post.. and I am happy to be here!
I will make a video of what it is doing...
05-19-2015
#3
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: First post! And.. issue. My 1995 Honda Civic..
Hi and welcome to the forum
As you probably already figured, it's tough to tell what's wrong when everything works (or starts up in your case). It started, so IT'S FIXED!!! LOL
I know you said it's a swap and I saw junkyard yellow paint on the valve cover..., I assume it has been running OK like this for a while?
More observation while it's not starting would help. Does the check engine light come on? (clue the computer is getting powered up, that's 1/2 of the main relay)
Does the fuel pump come on? At the time it will not start, is there a lot of fuel pressure in the rail or very little? (the pump is run by the other half of the main relay)
If the idiot lights on the dash don't stay on steady as you twist the ignition key, that might be a clue the ignition switch is losing its contacts.
I'd probably suspect the PGMFI main relay, it's a real common cause of random intermittent crank-but-no-start. Cracks solder joints on the board.
Can you solder? Take the relay out, take the lid off, resolder all the points on the circuit board, there's maybe 20 or so points to retouch with solder, takes me like 10 minutes and is a freebie fix if that is the problem.
The surge in the other videos..... Also tough to tell from here. Looks minor, as in it seems like it surges at a much lesser degree than others when people complain, theirs usually surges between 1200 and 2000 rpm.
I'd check for vacuum leaks...
Pull the intake snorkel off the throttle body and plug off the ports in the sides of the throttle body with your fingers, see if the idle becomes stable.
As you probably already figured, it's tough to tell what's wrong when everything works (or starts up in your case). It started, so IT'S FIXED!!! LOL
I know you said it's a swap and I saw junkyard yellow paint on the valve cover..., I assume it has been running OK like this for a while?
More observation while it's not starting would help. Does the check engine light come on? (clue the computer is getting powered up, that's 1/2 of the main relay)
Does the fuel pump come on? At the time it will not start, is there a lot of fuel pressure in the rail or very little? (the pump is run by the other half of the main relay)
If the idiot lights on the dash don't stay on steady as you twist the ignition key, that might be a clue the ignition switch is losing its contacts.
I'd probably suspect the PGMFI main relay, it's a real common cause of random intermittent crank-but-no-start. Cracks solder joints on the board.
Can you solder? Take the relay out, take the lid off, resolder all the points on the circuit board, there's maybe 20 or so points to retouch with solder, takes me like 10 minutes and is a freebie fix if that is the problem.
The surge in the other videos..... Also tough to tell from here. Looks minor, as in it seems like it surges at a much lesser degree than others when people complain, theirs usually surges between 1200 and 2000 rpm.
I'd check for vacuum leaks...
Pull the intake snorkel off the throttle body and plug off the ports in the sides of the throttle body with your fingers, see if the idle becomes stable.
05-19-2015
#4
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Hi and welcome to the forum
As you probably already figured, it's tough to tell what's wrong when everything works (or starts up in your case). It started, so IT'S FIXED!!! LOL
I know you said it's a swap and I saw junkyard yellow paint on the valve cover..., I assume it has been running OK like this for a while?
More observation while it's not starting would help. Does the check engine light come on? (clue the computer is getting powered up, that's 1/2 of the main relay)
Does the fuel pump come on? At the time it will not start, is there a lot of fuel pressure in the rail or very little? (the pump is run by the other half of the main relay)
If the idiot lights on the dash don't stay on steady as you twist the ignition key, that might be a clue the ignition switch is losing its contacts.
I'd probably suspect the PGMFI main relay, it's a real common cause of random intermittent crank-but-no-start. Cracks solder joints on the board.
Can you solder? Take the relay out, take the lid off, resolder all the points on the circuit board, there's maybe 20 or so points to retouch with solder, takes me like 10 minutes and is a freebie fix if that is the problem.
The surge in the other videos..... Also tough to tell from here. Looks minor, as in it seems like it surges at a much lesser degree than others when people complain, theirs usually surges between 1200 and 2000 rpm.
I'd check for vacuum leaks...
Pull the intake snorkel off the throttle body and plug off the ports in the sides of the throttle body with your fingers, see if the idle becomes stable.
As you probably already figured, it's tough to tell what's wrong when everything works (or starts up in your case). It started, so IT'S FIXED!!! LOL
I know you said it's a swap and I saw junkyard yellow paint on the valve cover..., I assume it has been running OK like this for a while?
More observation while it's not starting would help. Does the check engine light come on? (clue the computer is getting powered up, that's 1/2 of the main relay)
Does the fuel pump come on? At the time it will not start, is there a lot of fuel pressure in the rail or very little? (the pump is run by the other half of the main relay)
If the idiot lights on the dash don't stay on steady as you twist the ignition key, that might be a clue the ignition switch is losing its contacts.
I'd probably suspect the PGMFI main relay, it's a real common cause of random intermittent crank-but-no-start. Cracks solder joints on the board.
Can you solder? Take the relay out, take the lid off, resolder all the points on the circuit board, there's maybe 20 or so points to retouch with solder, takes me like 10 minutes and is a freebie fix if that is the problem.
The surge in the other videos..... Also tough to tell from here. Looks minor, as in it seems like it surges at a much lesser degree than others when people complain, theirs usually surges between 1200 and 2000 rpm.
I'd check for vacuum leaks...
Pull the intake snorkel off the throttle body and plug off the ports in the sides of the throttle body with your fingers, see if the idle becomes stable.
. I will answer your most excellent questions, shortly. (Even though I got a Samsung Galaxy Mega, I need laptop again.)
05-20-2015
#5
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Hi and welcome to the forum
As you probably already figured, it's tough to tell what's wrong when everything works (or starts up in your case). It started, so IT'S FIXED!!! LOL
I know you said it's a swap and I saw junkyard yellow paint on the valve cover..., I assume it has been running OK like this for a while?
More observation while it's not starting would help. Does the check engine light come on? (clue the computer is getting powered up, that's 1/2 of the main relay)
Does the fuel pump come on? At the time it will not start, is there a lot of fuel pressure in the rail or very little? (the pump is run by the other half of the main relay)
If the idiot lights on the dash don't stay on steady as you twist the ignition key, that might be a clue the ignition switch is losing its contacts.
I'd probably suspect the PGMFI main relay, it's a real common cause of random intermittent crank-but-no-start. Cracks solder joints on the board.
Can you solder? Take the relay out, take the lid off, resolder all the points on the circuit board, there's maybe 20 or so points to retouch with solder, takes me like 10 minutes and is a freebie fix if that is the problem.
The surge in the other videos..... Also tough to tell from here. Looks minor, as in it seems like it surges at a much lesser degree than others when people complain, theirs usually surges between 1200 and 2000 rpm.
I'd check for vacuum leaks...
Pull the intake snorkel off the throttle body and plug off the ports in the sides of the throttle body with your fingers, see if the idle becomes stable.
As you probably already figured, it's tough to tell what's wrong when everything works (or starts up in your case). It started, so IT'S FIXED!!! LOL
I know you said it's a swap and I saw junkyard yellow paint on the valve cover..., I assume it has been running OK like this for a while?
More observation while it's not starting would help. Does the check engine light come on? (clue the computer is getting powered up, that's 1/2 of the main relay)
Does the fuel pump come on? At the time it will not start, is there a lot of fuel pressure in the rail or very little? (the pump is run by the other half of the main relay)
If the idiot lights on the dash don't stay on steady as you twist the ignition key, that might be a clue the ignition switch is losing its contacts.
I'd probably suspect the PGMFI main relay, it's a real common cause of random intermittent crank-but-no-start. Cracks solder joints on the board.
Can you solder? Take the relay out, take the lid off, resolder all the points on the circuit board, there's maybe 20 or so points to retouch with solder, takes me like 10 minutes and is a freebie fix if that is the problem.
The surge in the other videos..... Also tough to tell from here. Looks minor, as in it seems like it surges at a much lesser degree than others when people complain, theirs usually surges between 1200 and 2000 rpm.
I'd check for vacuum leaks...
Pull the intake snorkel off the throttle body and plug off the ports in the sides of the throttle body with your fingers, see if the idle becomes stable.
Car has been running pretty well since I got it and has even road-tripped to Massachusetts but it got pretty beat up over the winter. (Got stolen)
I have had the SRS and ABS light on since I bought the car. Going to go to YouTube to see how to check those.. Sometimes, the yellow ABS light comes on when the car goes like 10MPH or so, IF it is off when car starts.
I had a dream I tried EricTheCarGuy's Fuel Pressure test. Link to that is below..
Solder iron today..
It surges more on start-up, im afraid to let it idle..
Also, what to make of THIS??...
Vac hoses? .. if I can get charged less than $21 a hose like the heater core hoses, like NAPA. NAPA is too high for me.. but I get stuff from them if I have tk. Its good stuff.
Will check back soon!
05-20-2015
#6
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: First post! And.. issue. My 1995 Honda Civic..
Also, what to make of THIS??...
ROFL Hell no it ain't.
You got the plug wire off, it's only runnin on 3 cylinders.
Plug that spark plug wire back in. Let it surge until you figure out what's wrong.
Vacuum leaks? Figure out if there is actually a leak before you go trying to replace stuff.
EricTheCarGuy's Fuel Pressure test.
I do it too, there's a time and place for it.
05-21-2015
#7
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Coolant direction must be to return it to engine through lower hose then..
I will bleed the air
Pull the codes (?)
and run it today.
Yup.. on 4 cyls.
I will bleed the air
Pull the codes (?)
and run it today.
Yup.. on 4 cyls.
05-21-2015
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Welp! DEFINITELY needs a Water Pump. Peeing from behind the pulley under pressure.
My concerns about the integrity of the head gasket and Cyl #1 are separate.
Let me plan the next move..
My concerns about the integrity of the head gasket and Cyl #1 are separate.
Let me plan the next move..
05-21-2015
#10
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: First post! And.. issue. My 1995 Honda Civic..
STARTING FLUID DID NOT APPEAR TO START IT so while I have fuel suspicions, I started the spark route.
Coolant direction must be to return it to engine through lower hose then..
Welp! DEFINITELY needs a Water Pump. Peeing from behind the pulley under pressure.
My concerns about the integrity of the head gasket and Cyl #1 are separate.
My concerns about the integrity of the head gasket and Cyl #1 are separate.
Figure out if it needs the head gasket job, and do it all at the same time since the timing belt has to come partway off to do it anyway.
Also....Makes me wonder if low coolant level might be causing your surge at idle?
Codes.
ABS: 48
ABS: 48
SRS: 11
Clues:
Does the horn work?
Does the cruise work?
05-22-2015
#17
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Re: First post! And.. issue. My 1995 Honda Civic..
Well...at least you have good taste in soldering irons.
Solder takes about 1 second to 'dry'
Solder takes about 1 second to 'dry'
05-22-2015
#18
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: First post! And.. issue. My 1995 Honda Civic..
I use a butane soldering iron 99% of the time.
Solder does not dry LOL, it cools and hardens.
It's ready to run as soon as you can touch it with bare skin.
Good luck!
Solder does not dry LOL, it cools and hardens.
It's ready to run as soon as you can touch it with bare skin.
Good luck!
05-23-2015
#20
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: First post! And.. issue. My 1995 Honda Civic..
I was thinking put the damn camera down and use both hands.
1/4 turn would never apply to reinstalling a used plug.
Start by running the engine to operating temp.
Then remove all spark plugs, and disable the ignition (so you don't roach the coil).
Then do your compression tests.
Wet plug, water in the tube? engine was powerwashed? Check for carbon tracking on the exposed porcelain plug shell. If there are, replace plugs AND wires.
Battery dying during test is not good, put a charger on it.
Your 180+ compression is what I expect to see on all cylinders.
LOL@Mom, etc.
Did the resolder job work on the main relay? Does it run reliably now?
1/4 turn would never apply to reinstalling a used plug.
Start by running the engine to operating temp.
Then remove all spark plugs, and disable the ignition (so you don't roach the coil).
Then do your compression tests.
Wet plug, water in the tube? engine was powerwashed? Check for carbon tracking on the exposed porcelain plug shell. If there are, replace plugs AND wires.
Battery dying during test is not good, put a charger on it.
Your 180+ compression is what I expect to see on all cylinders.
LOL@Mom, etc.
Did the resolder job work on the main relay? Does it run reliably now?
05-23-2015
#21
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I was thinking put the damn camera down and use both hands.
1/4 turn would never apply to reinstalling a used plug.
Start by running the engine to operating temp.
Then remove all spark plugs, and disable the ignition (so you don't roach the coil).
Then do your compression tests.
Wet plug, water in the tube? engine was powerwashed? Check for carbon tracking on the exposed porcelain plug shell. If there are, replace plugs AND wires.
Battery dying during test is not good, put a charger on it.
Your 180+ compression is what I expect to see on all cylinders.
LOL@Mom, etc.
Did the resolder job work on the main relay? Does it run reliably now?
1/4 turn would never apply to reinstalling a used plug.
Start by running the engine to operating temp.
Then remove all spark plugs, and disable the ignition (so you don't roach the coil).
Then do your compression tests.
Wet plug, water in the tube? engine was powerwashed? Check for carbon tracking on the exposed porcelain plug shell. If there are, replace plugs AND wires.
Battery dying during test is not good, put a charger on it.
Your 180+ compression is what I expect to see on all cylinders.
LOL@Mom, etc.
Did the resolder job work on the main relay? Does it run reliably now?
Going out to get a new.. will check back and re-read last night's action plan and new posts when I get back.
Going out to get a new.. will check back and re-read last night's action plan and new posts when I get back.
If it runs after and stays running I do it again..
05-23-2015
#23
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: First post! And.. issue. My 1995 Honda Civic..
No start. Damn.
OK go back to this step and see if this still makes it run for a few seconds and make sure it's still a fuel problem:
Crack that bolt loose on the filter again and make sure the pump is really not working.
Assuming it does not run the pump, let's try to figure out why....
Do you have a voltmeter or test light, and know how to use it?
Got a wiring diagram for the car?
Checked fuses yet?
I would not worry about compression testing right now. Fuel delivery seems to be the immediate problem.
OK go back to this step and see if this still makes it run for a few seconds and make sure it's still a fuel problem:
Assuming it does not run the pump, let's try to figure out why....
Do you have a voltmeter or test light, and know how to use it?
Got a wiring diagram for the car?
Checked fuses yet?
I would not worry about compression testing right now. Fuel delivery seems to be the immediate problem.
05-23-2015
#24
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No start. Damn.
OK go back to this step and see if this still makes it run for a few seconds and make sure it's still a fuel problem:
Crack that bolt loose on the filter again and make sure the pump is really not working.
Assuming it does not run the pump, let's try to figure out why....
Do you have a voltmeter or test light, and know how to use it?
Got a wiring diagram for the car?
Checked fuses yet?
I would not worry about compression testing right now. Fuel delivery seems to be the immediate problem.
OK go back to this step and see if this still makes it run for a few seconds and make sure it's still a fuel problem:
Crack that bolt loose on the filter again and make sure the pump is really not working.
Assuming it does not run the pump, let's try to figure out why....
Do you have a voltmeter or test light, and know how to use it?
Got a wiring diagram for the car?
Checked fuses yet?
I would not worry about compression testing right now. Fuel delivery seems to be the immediate problem.
I need to figure out if I am hallucinating, but I THOUGHT i FAINTLY smelled fuel while cranking.
I also re-did fuel pressure test at the end and.. got nothin. ...
^^ Re-did test. Am halfway through..
Cyl #1 (closest timing belt, closest driver's side)
DRY: 152psi
WET: 170psi
Cyl #2
DRY: 160psi
WET: 180psi
Cyl #3
DRY: 175psi
WET: 185psi
Cyl #4
DRY: 195psi
WET: 1st time: 270psi (!!)
2nd time: 250psi (??)
Faint fuel smell mid-way through when cranking.
Video coming..
05-23-2015
#25
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: First post! And.. issue. My 1995 Honda Civic..
Forget the compression testing until after the engine is able to run.
Right now you cannot get accurate results.
Do you have a voltmeter or test light, and know how to use it?
Got a wiring diagram for the car?
Checked fuses yet?
Right now you cannot get accurate results.
Do you have a voltmeter or test light, and know how to use it?
Got a wiring diagram for the car?
Checked fuses yet?
05-24-2015
#27
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Wiring diagram? .. No.. Where would I find?
And yes, I have replaced each and every fuse with "Easy ID" fuses that light up in the middle when blown.
05-24-2015
#28
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Re: First post! And.. issue. My 1995 Honda Civic..
A test light should have a wire with a clip put it on ground and touch a live wire with the other end.... the light will light up. Same idea with multimeter... set it to V for volts. Black lead to ground, red lead to power and it should tell you how many volts in the circuit. If you're trying to determine if the fuel pump is getting power then un clip the connector at the pump and test for voltage... this is where the wiring diagram comes in. Look for a FSM (factory Service Manual) online. Search by your model eg. mine's a ej6...so search for ej6 fsm.
05-24-2015
#29
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: First post! And.. issue. My 1995 Honda Civic..
I would not pull the back seat out to check at the pump yet.
I'd do first electrical tests at the pgmfi main relay socket because it's already hanging out from under the dash.
Backprobe the socket to see if it is supplying +12v power to the pump circuit (yellow/green wire) while cranking the engine.
How many times have you put oil in the cylinders for a wet test?
I'd do first electrical tests at the pgmfi main relay socket because it's already hanging out from under the dash.
Backprobe the socket to see if it is supplying +12v power to the pump circuit (yellow/green wire) while cranking the engine.
How many times have you put oil in the cylinders for a wet test?
05-24-2015
#30
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I would not pull the back seat out to check at the pump yet.
I'd do first electrical tests at the pgmfi main relay socket because it's already hanging out from under the dash.
Backprobe the socket to see if it is supplying +12v power to the pump circuit (yellow/green wire) while cranking the engine.
How many times have you put oil in the cylinders for a wet test?
I'd do first electrical tests at the pgmfi main relay socket because it's already hanging out from under the dash.
Backprobe the socket to see if it is supplying +12v power to the pump circuit (yellow/green wire) while cranking the engine.
How many times have you put oil in the cylinders for a wet test?
I have been advised to re-do while having fuse #24 pulled (and I assume the Main Relay?)
I also agree with you to check for fuel.. Power first seems smart. Do I have to pierce the wire to check?
