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Belt shown @1:14 is aftermarket. Looks like a "gatorback".

Crank:cam drive ratio is 2:1, meaning it requires two complete turns of the crank to rotate the camshaft one turn.
Your cam pulley was upside down, the crank needed to turn one more time to get the cam correct (refer to your service manual for images of aligning the correct timing marks on the cam gear for your particular engine). THEN set crank on TDC mark.

Piston #1 reaches the top upon each revolution of the crank, but #1 TDC only occurs when the valves are closed for the compression stroke,
This only occurs every other revolution of the crank.
The cam marks have to be in the right places to verify this is actually happening if you can't actually watch the valves in action or feel positive air displacement.
This is what the guy was feeling for in the video you were watching, air coming out of the spark plug hole during the compression stroke.


If your cam gear is upside down, you found TDC for #4 cylinder instead of #1.
If your cam gear has the word UP stamped into it, it needs to be near the top.

Not a big deal in reality because you are pulling the head off, you can put the cam anywhere you need it to go later on.







This TDC (or zero degrees) mark on the crank pulley is all that's necessary, you don't really need to stick the screwdriver in the hole.
If you can remove this pulley without moving the crank, the timing belt drive gear behind it will also be aligned with its own timing mark.

 
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The latest:



Based on:

 
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I was gonna post that second pic but I didn't remember which engine you had.

 
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D15Z1 sir.

Not sure it is even possible to get it closer to perfect.. I got it pretty good. Will every tiny bit matter? Or do I have it good right now?

I am fighting with lower timing cover at the moment..

 
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You know I'm not gonna remember that later on LOL.

You can only get so close due to the the teeth on the belt. If you aren't off by the width of a whole tooth it's good enough.

You are taking it apart anyway. All this stuff can and will move later.

 
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That last 10mm bolt on the lower timing cover is being a real beach.

 
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About ready to just cut this belt off with a saw. Why didn't I think of thaT?

 
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Why? You sure can't install a new timing belt the same way!



It will slide off quite easily once the tensioner pulley has been moved.

 
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I might be able to follow off of this: (Tell me what you think!)

 
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6:24 he shows the tensioner pulley
Didn't watch any more than that.

Loosen the tensioner bolt (a half turn or so, enough to let it move), push the tensioner down, snug the bolt to hold it in the released position. Slip the belt off the pulley and remove belt.

 
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This is where I am at right now....

 
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Oh hell, I thought you already had the crank pulley bolt taken care of.

Do not loosen or remove the timing belt until you have the crank pulley bolt taken care of.....unless you are going to remove the head as-is.

 
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Almost got it.

 
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^^ WOW, is it on there....

 
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I need more leverage on this @#$%^# bar.
(**uh.. Let me re-phrase: This is not a big nor heavy enough bar. I need "more bar." More leverage...)



And this thing isn't budging it...



It came in a metal box, I thought it would be a cinch.

Nope...

 
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You'll probably need about 600-800 foot pounds of leverage (force) to bust it loose then it will spin out with your fingers.


Maaaybe 150-180 to put it back together.

Google honda crank pulley holder of see if DangerZone will rent you one?

 
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Will that fit on mine? I keep hearing "1996 and later."

I dont see space to get that over, I don't see a squared-off part. Just a nut and a pulley. 1996 and later looks like this:

 
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Sorry I keep forgetting how different the older cars can be.
Your crank pulley must have a bunch of round holes?
You may have to get creative and fabricate a spanner that fits the holes and will hold the pulley securely without damage.
Or borrow the right tool
Bolt spec 134 ft-lb?

 
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I got it chained up in one of those holes with a hook and same on the other end to an engine mount, with the weight of the car pressing it against bricks.

The latest: I been spraying some ATF/Acetone on it, as much as will "get on the threads," with its vertical orientation.

I will heat it up, and try the torque tomorrow. Gonna hit it again before I go to sleep and the rain stops.

Would be something if it comes off with that.

 
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Holy poop, don't bend or ruin the pulley.

That 134 is tightening spec when you assemble it later.
It's gonna take a lot more to break it loose.

 
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If this thing runs at all when I put it back together I'm gonna be happy. I have heated it quite a bit.

I think I am gonna try to rent this. This needs to come OFF, this car is just sitting here, it will be here absolutely forever at this rate. I gotta buck up and DO THIS ****.

Rent:

http://www6.homedepot.com/tool-truck...T01/index.html

 
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And How do you ruin a pulley?

 
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Amazing they don't describe that gun better. 1420 inch-pounds??? That gun is tiny. You need big. You need real torque.

See if you can get a 1/2 inch drive impact gun.

Wrong tools and procedures?

 
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I have to post up a pic of mine, something about "where the belt goes" there is like a small piece of metal missing.. was like that when I started..

In other news, I want that W7150 NOW. I been using a chain to stop it from moving and it snapped in this vid.

 
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^^ oh, wait. I was checking on Jade Helm again.

HERE is that video!

 
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The last thing you say is you think you got it and give a thumbs up. Did you get it loose?


I kinda want the IR cordless guns but I spent a lot of loot on air guns and I want to wear those out first.

Read up on Project Blue Beam yet?

 
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Thought I did.. but just snapped the chain holding my pulley.

If that chain didn't give, I'd have got it. But I was too strong for the chain.

Makes me kinda want to get a bigger chain today. That pipe cost $18 bucks..



[quote
I kinda w]ant the IR cordless guns but I spent a lot of loot on air guns and I want to wear those out first.
[/quote]

If there was ever anything in the history of the world I would RENT it would be this. This thing has been up for.. two weeks? three? Two months?? ... and NO NUT OFF. This thing would "Brrrr" and pop it off like a lug nut. 5 seconds.

But they don't have the IR W7150. They have ****..

Well, Jade Helm is freakishly like Skynet from Terminator.. but I gotta check that one out. I'm still on the revamped H.A.A.R.P. and how the manifestation of the MK Ultra programs are really coming to fruition.

I think Sandy Hook was a hoax. Boston Bombing probably went down as they say... still a little "could go either way" on 9-11 (both sides have GREAT points,) but Sandy Hook was some bullshit. They never looked for the purple minivan with occupants dressed as nuns, there were at least 7 suspects and we only see and hear the one, and "camo guy"...

 
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Idea. Kinda last resort idea, but it's cheap and might be dangerous.

Look up 'stuffing a bunch of rope into a cylinder to keep the crankshaft from turning'.


You'd need a long length of soft rope that can fit through a spark plug hole, fill the cylinder with it as much as you can stuff into it, then try to bust the bolt loose.

But you gotta set the cylinder up so the valves won't try to open after you stuff rope in it and turn the crank to bust the bolt loose.

Gonna fill Cylinder #1 with rope.


Timing belt has not been removed? Good.

Spin the crank until the cam gear word UP is at the top.

Then turn crankshaft CLOCKWISE 180* (half turn) so the piston #1 is at the bottom of its stroke.
Camshaft gear word UP should be located about 3:00 position now.


Stuff rope into cylinder #1. As much as you can stuff.

Now try to turn the crank bolt counterclockwise.
There will be some give to it as the piston tries to squeeze all that rope in the cylinder, but it won't be able to complete its full stroke.
Give it hell with the breaker bar and pipe.

If anyone thinks this is a bad idea, now is the time to speak up!!

 
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man, if I post this on HT, all the trolls and moderators are gonna call me "King Troll" and ban me for life.

But you provide information that I can USE, not lecturing on what I legitimately have difficulty doing.

I am gonna go shop for some rope AND CHAIN UP THE PULLEY TOO... because the next time? ITS COMIN OFF...

No chance the torque on the nut can have such force that I snap something, is there?

 
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Chicken.

See what sort of feedback you can get from there....See if anyone has a legit reason to NOT try this.
Did you google it?

Rope is a technique some consider old school all the way. Hell, I didn't think of it til this afternoon. It's simple and effective ......and I've never had to do it.

It used to be a common method for stopping valves from dropping into a cylinder while the springs were removed.


If you try to hold the pulley with chain or anything, then using the rope is probably pointless.

You are using the rope to stop the crank from turning, so there is no need to hold the pulley in any way.

Besides, I'm afraid you are gonna ruin the pulley by trying to chain it down.

I don't know. Hopefully just the bolt, not tools or anything important inside the engine (aluminum piston, connecting rod, valves).
Like I said, I've never done it.


I'm still waiting to see if anyone else objects to trying this.