First post! And.. issue. My 1995 Honda Civic..
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Re: First post! And.. issue. My 1995 Honda Civic..
Just quit with the compression tests for now.
You will not get the car running by doing this.
Maybe they can PM you some wiring diagrams instead.
THAT would be useful.
No.
Backprobing means sticking the test probe in the wire side of the connector so you can make contact with the exposed metal of the crimped terminal.
If the test probe is too fat to fit then use a paper clip to make contact.
You have to reconnect the main relay to do the tests.
The main relay has 7 wires to test, but first we need to know if it is trying to operate the fuel pump so check what I said on the previous reply first.
You will not get the car running by doing this.
I have been advised to
THAT would be useful.
Do I have to pierce the wire to check?
Backprobing means sticking the test probe in the wire side of the connector so you can make contact with the exposed metal of the crimped terminal.
If the test probe is too fat to fit then use a paper clip to make contact.
You have to reconnect the main relay to do the tests.
The main relay has 7 wires to test, but first we need to know if it is trying to operate the fuel pump so check what I said on the previous reply first.
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Re: First post! And.. issue. My 1995 Honda Civic..
^^ Oh man. God bless you! 
I agree.. fuel will likely make her start right up. We first verify power to the pump (*a problem the car had previously) before we get to the pump itself, if it is able to produce fuel when power is there.. yes?
I agree.. fuel will likely make her start right up. We first verify power to the pump (*a problem the car had previously) before we get to the pump itself, if it is able to produce fuel when power is there.. yes?
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The fuel pump is a simple electric motor. It needs 12v power and ground to operate.
From the main relay connector I can check if the pump is receiving power through the relay as designed,
I can check resistance of the circuit between the pump motor and ground,
and I can manually supply the pump with power (+12v) to verify that it will run and pump fuel.
From the main relay connector I can check if the pump is receiving power through the relay as designed,
I can check resistance of the circuit between the pump motor and ground,
and I can manually supply the pump with power (+12v) to verify that it will run and pump fuel.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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If you had a wiring diagram, you might better understand why some wires are powered and some are not.
Read this again, carefully:
That means stick the test light on the specified wire, THEN CRANK THE ENGINE.
Does it light up WHILE CRANKING?
Read this again, carefully:
Backprobe the socket to see if it is supplying +12v power to the pump circuit (yellow/green wire) while cranking the engine.
Does it light up WHILE CRANKING?
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Now to reconnect all ignition and fuses so it doesn't sound like that when it turns (from compression test adventure.)
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Your test light came on at the wrong time.
At least with these videos I can see what you did wrong here.
No, look closer at the terminals in your picture.
In your picture, #7 is on the side with four terminals.
No again.
Yellow/green is different from green/yellow.
"Yellow wire with a green stripe" is different from a "green wire with a yellow stripe".
Start over.
Leave your book in the house this time.
Follow this instruction:
Put the test light on the Yellow wire with a green stripe.
Then crank it.
Believe me, it's just as frustrating for me to try to explain it as it is for you to try to figure out what the tests are.
At least with these videos I can see what you did wrong here.
"the side with three, fuel pump"
In your picture, #7 is on the side with four terminals.
"green-yellow"
Yellow/green is different from green/yellow.
"Yellow wire with a green stripe" is different from a "green wire with a yellow stripe".
Start over.
Leave your book in the house this time.
Follow this instruction:
Put the test light on the Yellow wire with a green stripe.
Then crank it.
Believe me, it's just as frustrating for me to try to explain it as it is for you to try to figure out what the tests are.
Last edited by ezone; May 26, 2015 at 10:29 PM. Reason: "x", "x" added quote marks
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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Still on the wrong wire.
EDIT: You're calling out the wrong wire in your videos.
I have to verify wire colors in order to do any tests.
I cannot go by the terminal numbers you have as my wiring diagram does not have the main relay labeled that way, it's got the connector labeled and it's not the same scheme.
EDIT: You're calling out the wrong wire in your videos.
I have to verify wire colors in order to do any tests.
I cannot go by the terminal numbers you have as my wiring diagram does not have the main relay labeled that way, it's got the connector labeled and it's not the same scheme.
Last edited by ezone; May 26, 2015 at 11:00 PM.
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Your test light came on at the wrong time.
At least with these videos I can see what you did wrong here.
No, look closer at the terminals in your picture.
In your picture, #7 is on the side with four terminals.
No again.
Yellow/green is different from green/yellow.
"Yellow wire with a green stripe" is different from a "green wire with a yellow stripe".
Start over.
Leave your book in the house this time.
Follow this instruction:
Put the test light on the Yellow wire with a green stripe.
Then crank it.
Believe me, it's just as frustrating for me to try to explain it as it is for you to try to figure out what the tests are.
At least with these videos I can see what you did wrong here.
No, look closer at the terminals in your picture.
In your picture, #7 is on the side with four terminals.
No again.
Yellow/green is different from green/yellow.
"Yellow wire with a green stripe" is different from a "green wire with a yellow stripe".
Start over.
Leave your book in the house this time.
Follow this instruction:
Put the test light on the Yellow wire with a green stripe.
Then crank it.
Believe me, it's just as frustrating for me to try to explain it as it is for you to try to figure out what the tests are.
Let me go and check it out..
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Still on the wrong wire.
EDIT: You're calling out the wrong wire in your videos.
I have to verify wire colors in order to do any tests.
I cannot go by the terminal numbers you have as my wiring diagram does not have the main relay labeled that way, it's got the connector labeled and it's not the same scheme.
EDIT: You're calling out the wrong wire in your videos.
I have to verify wire colors in order to do any tests.
I cannot go by the terminal numbers you have as my wiring diagram does not have the main relay labeled that way, it's got the connector labeled and it's not the same scheme.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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You did not get it to run before taking it all apart?
Isn't that gonna complicate things later?
Isn't that gonna complicate things later?
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Because I know the Head Gasket was at issue, and when it gets all back together, THEN I resume the Main Relay testing (I accept I was confusing things by wrong wire, etc) because the Water Pump is also bad, so..
This car will be getting NEW:
- MLS Head Gasket (and other gaskets)
- Water Pump, and, therefore, TIMING BELT
- We go from there from Fuel Pump and Relay AFTER..
- Tire.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 517 Re: First post! And.. issue. My 1995 Honda Civic..
No clue here, I tried to do the same a while ago and it didn't embed for me either. Oh well.
Rust is great! LOL Welcome to my world!
ATF+Acetone is supposed to be a great combo for a penetrating oil.
Heat can weaken the sockets, be careful.
Exhaust fasteners can rust away to almost nothing and still put up a huge fight. Sometimes you can't keep from breaking stuff like that.
Rust is great! LOL Welcome to my world!
ATF+Acetone is supposed to be a great combo for a penetrating oil.
Heat can weaken the sockets, be careful.
Exhaust fasteners can rust away to almost nothing and still put up a huge fight. Sometimes you can't keep from breaking stuff like that.
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No clue here, I tried to do the same a while ago and it didn't embed for me either. Oh well.
Rust is great! LOL Welcome to my world!
ATF+Acetone is supposed to be a great combo for a penetrating oil.
Heat can weaken the sockets, be careful.
Exhaust fasteners can rust away to almost nothing and still put up a huge fight. Sometimes you can't keep from breaking stuff like that.
Rust is great! LOL Welcome to my world!
ATF+Acetone is supposed to be a great combo for a penetrating oil.
Heat can weaken the sockets, be careful.
Exhaust fasteners can rust away to almost nothing and still put up a huge fight. Sometimes you can't keep from breaking stuff like that.
I got the exhaust manifold shield off!
. Am stuck on ONE bolt.. it almost seems larger than 12mm. It is weird. I will go at it in a little while. It has become ht and humid (one week AFTER my Birthday this year, thankfully) and it will be a stupid, stupid hot summer at this pace. (The last few years have had blazing hit summer and kinda iffy winters.. one year winter almost didn't happen then we had two wild ones.) 
Ok, so.. Ordered up a new fuel pump, since that likely is the issue also. I remember how it was at about 1/4 tank, and I gassed it up to full. These problems started 5 minutes after that. So, replacing the pump as a precaution. I also have some help to check for the power. I left the test light on the relay.
Then I can continue with my plan to do the timing belt and water pump and head gasket - again, with some help - and have a great running car. Full flush and etc.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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I gassed it up to full. These problems started 5 minutes after that
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Still, though, you bring up an interesting point. I know that DOES happen. and I never get gas there. What if the one time I did.. Hmmmm.
And. Updates:
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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Blazer video: You disconnected the wrong wire from the coil.
You really need to understand why you are supposed to disconnect the coil, and why the wire you removed is wrong.
Why: To disable spark and prevent accidental ignition of the gasoline.
What's wrong: Your coil will still work and you will have exposed lightning bolts if you try to crank it.
Disconnect the OTHER wiring from the coil so it is completely disabled. You could have an inferno if you don't.
Did that blazer crack the fuel line inside the manifold, or did it rupture the pressure regulator? I know they failed both ways sooner or later.
Second vid: The first 2 bolts you pulled out are for the cam journal cap. There is no reason to take the cam caps off right now. That's a lot of unnecessary work.
And the exhaust manifold should drop a ways then stop, suspended on the pipe hangers. I doubt it will fall far enough to hit the pavement below.
You really need to understand why you are supposed to disconnect the coil, and why the wire you removed is wrong.
Why: To disable spark and prevent accidental ignition of the gasoline.
What's wrong: Your coil will still work and you will have exposed lightning bolts if you try to crank it.
Disconnect the OTHER wiring from the coil so it is completely disabled. You could have an inferno if you don't.
Did that blazer crack the fuel line inside the manifold, or did it rupture the pressure regulator? I know they failed both ways sooner or later.
Second vid: The first 2 bolts you pulled out are for the cam journal cap. There is no reason to take the cam caps off right now. That's a lot of unnecessary work.
And the exhaust manifold should drop a ways then stop, suspended on the pipe hangers. I doubt it will fall far enough to hit the pavement below.
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Blazer video: You disconnected the wrong wire from the coil.
You really need to understand why you are supposed to disconnect the coil, and why the wire you removed is wrong.
Why: To disable spark and prevent accidental ignition of the gasoline.
What's wrong: Your coil will still work and you will have exposed lightning bolts if you try to crank it.
Disconnect the OTHER wiring from the coil so it is completely disabled. You could have an inferno if you don't.
Did that blazer crack the fuel line inside the manifold, or did it rupture the pressure regulator? I know they failed both ways sooner or later.
Second vid: The first 2 bolts you pulled out are for the cam journal cap. There is no reason to take the cam caps off right now. That's a lot of unnecessary work.
And the exhaust manifold should drop a ways then stop, suspended on the pipe hangers. I doubt it will fall far enough to hit the pavement below.
You really need to understand why you are supposed to disconnect the coil, and why the wire you removed is wrong.
Why: To disable spark and prevent accidental ignition of the gasoline.
What's wrong: Your coil will still work and you will have exposed lightning bolts if you try to crank it.
Disconnect the OTHER wiring from the coil so it is completely disabled. You could have an inferno if you don't.
Did that blazer crack the fuel line inside the manifold, or did it rupture the pressure regulator? I know they failed both ways sooner or later.
Second vid: The first 2 bolts you pulled out are for the cam journal cap. There is no reason to take the cam caps off right now. That's a lot of unnecessary work.
And the exhaust manifold should drop a ways then stop, suspended on the pipe hangers. I doubt it will fall far enough to hit the pavement below.
