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There is only "straight water" in it now. No antifreeze. I would LOVE if it was a little bit green.. I would know what it was then.

The words of the guy trying to game me by making **** up about the knock sensor upset me a little bit. He only said that because I had Code 43... mayve one time Code 42. But that is because I had twisted the dizzy while it was running. (Yes, I have the "Distributor Clamp Hold-Down Removal Tool.")

Sunday we can hopefully get justice. And people that are helping me have picked up on how he is not a REAL mechanic; rather, a parts-changer with poor diagnostic skills.

 
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SYMPTOM: Water sprays out of that cylinder. (*Will verify it is water, but it probably is... since it can't be gas. Gas is not hooked up FOR it to be gas, and is completely disconnected. And it's not oil spraying.)
PROBLEM: It's not supposed to.
OTHER INFO: Sat overnight/a day.
PURPOSE: To find out why it's doing that.
EDUCATED GUESSES PUT FORTH SO FAR: LIMG/Head Gasket (that side)

Took this before my morning jog/light breakfast after jog, when my body can use that stuff for fuel.

 
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Thoughts



You can't see the intake ports from the manifold, but you might be able to see them through the little holes where the injectors poke through. Strong small flashlight? roll the crank until the intake valve on the cylinder in question is closed, then let it sit. Come back later on and see if any fluid has collected in the port, sitting on top of the closed intake valve.

Problem is, after thinking about the design and checking a few pictures, it seems that the coolant passages are nowhere near the intake ports.


So I really don't think it can be an intake gasket-- yet.


For all the water I've been repeatedly seeing come out of the cylinders while cranking, I'd expect surely the radiator level has been slowly dropping.
(The water coming out had to come from somewhere, it does not grow on its own!)
I know I have mentioned this but I don't remember if you have ever given any answer about checking it yet.


Has that engine been overheated?
Is there any external water leak on the ends of either cylinder head?

 
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The Blazer is gonna get THE WORKS as it has sentimental value. Ordered new Nut Kit, ANOTHER spider (... gotta let that one go.....) and "new valve covers" because 1 is mis-matched. Now it willbe "Vortec" badged ON THE VALVE COVERS like the 1994 and 1995s had. (Funny.. before I knew what was what, I thought those were "headers." Now I know.)

So we gonna throw the Blazer back together - kind of literally - and see how it runs. And go from there.

My radiator is dry, so I have a general idea of what is happening. But that's my prize truck and it WILL be remedied.

The ones you put pic up of was nice.

And yeah, flashlight down injector holes did nada.

 
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Wrenching more on it today.

My ratchet goes to the 12mm bolt for a bracket on the driver side of the engine..

 
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Heh. Bolt might be slightly stripped..

 
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It wasn't stripped.


.. next bolt?

 
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So far looks good.

The purpose of the wing bolt is for adjusting the belt tension. I have a custom cut socket that fits over the wings to speed up my work.

Not sure why you said you were gonna send the head to Honda though. You would need a machine shop, not a dealer.

O Lawdy, get some metric tools LOL

 
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Oh snat.. I'm doing GOOD now!

.. I said I was gonna send the head to Honda ? .. IF I have the money, somebody can pressure test it. I see guys going DIY home versions of that.. now THAT I think would require more tooling than I can rig up (fish tanks and stuff, testing it like you test a tire for air leaks.. in the water.) Lol.

What bolt next? And I'm doing good?

Oh. The Youtube pro community has spoken: The Blazer has a blown HG, at that cylinder, on that side. The radiator is dry, so. Yeah... Next project. (It's down the manifold already, so. I'll keep going...)

 
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I heard it @2:46.



It would need checked for flatness first, this checks for warpage. The surfaces must be perfectly flat to ensure the head gasket will seal.

Most people don't have a precision straightedge laying around the house to check this.

IDK, it's your job there not mine LOL.

Except for the part where you got dirty. That's not supposed to happen.

Why the jaw drop anyway?
I was sorta hoping to get you to figure that on your own without just handing you the answer, but you weren't answering all the questions.

Yes it's blown the head gasket---- or possibly cracked the head if it was severely overheated. (I know some GM V8s of that era liked to crack heads if overheated.)

 
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If it is a cracked head on that side then I'll get another.

I know I can get a straightedge from Amazon for like 10 bucks. It looks cheap as hell but.. it is a straightedge. Is that an established reliable method for checking for flatness? Looking for light? That, and some feeler gauges? Are there instances where the valves won't let you test it that way? ...

I need to listen to the video, I honestly don't remember this.

And I dropped my jaw because I got a complement

So, I again have to figure out or get pointed where to next unbolt stuff.. the bracket is still not moving..

 
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Dude, dude, dude. I said "I need to get this head OFF the Honda, and then I get to go deal with that."

 
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And some specs.
$10?? Damn that might be too cheap.
I've heard what some people have found upon actually measuring Harbor Freight feeler gauges....ya takes your chances I guess.

Read the manual on checking the head for warpage.
On the Chebby head, no....because it's a pushrod engine all the valves will be closed as soon as you have those out.

The Civic head will have some valves open as the cam will still be installed. I still measure, I just don't lay the tooling on any open valves. I can rotate the cam to close most of the valves in my way IF necessary. If it's warped I can usually figure that out long before any valves are in my way.

LOL

I can't tell what in the video.
Which bracket and why? The head just has to have enough stuff disconnected so it can be extracted from the engine block.

If the steering pump bracket is only attached to the head, see if you can leave it on and it may come with. If it's bolted to both the head and block then yes it needs to come off, the PS pump bracket looked like only 3 bolts hold it on.


Oh, I thought it said off TO Honda. Crummy laptop.

 
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Actually.. $5.51.

Even though the machine place has to pressure-test it. Makes me wonder if I should even straight-edge check it.. hmmm.

Now I'm gonna nap again.

 
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I don't think that is a precision straight edge. That's a ruler with a straight edge for drawing straight lines, not for precision measurement of thousandths of an inch or hundredths of a millimeter



This is a precision straight edge: https://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=637117&group_ID=681606

"Precision working edge ground to within .0002" per 12" in length." That's pretty damn straight.

 
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It is. So that's different than.. this?

 
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Or.. here. It says "Precision ground to .001"

 
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Wow, that's some sloppy production tolerance for a precision device from (what used to be?) a reputable name brand.

If maximum allowable warpage for a head using a MLS gasket is 0.002" and their 'production slop' is 0.001", that's up to half of the allowable measurement you simply can't trust.
Your head could be within spec or it could be 50% beyond maximum spec and since you might not be able to measure it accurately you might reinstall a big problem.

You may be better off just letting the machine shop do the checks. JMHO.

 
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I re-read the Snap On and it actually said .0001" not .001" .. I think Im going with MLS gaskets on BOTH vehicles (yes I found one for the Blazer, at least the parts are inexpensive so maybe that won't be as bad as i thought.. just looks like a lot of stuff but we will see I guess.. HG and LIMG there) so I think I can see the benefit of a fancy $120 2-ft ruler.

And, Q: The machine shop checks for flatness the same way, with a person and with the machinist precision rule as I or anybody that uses that method would. Is that true or false?

 
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Well #1, a machinists' (precision) straightedge is never considered to be a ruler.

Found this right away, the head used in this video is severely warped, and I mean severely.
Shows pretty well how to use the straightedge with feeler gauges.



If you decide to check yours, the maximum allowable deviation from flat is 0.002" (or 0.05 mm) .
If I were building any engine and using MLS gaskets, I would prefer it absolutely perfectly flat, zero warpage.

If you found yours was warped you would be sending it to the machine shop to be either straightened or milled flat again.
They would measure it for themselves when you take it in, I'm sure. It's part of what they do.

If it's been overheated (either engine), chances are good that the head(s) will have some measurable warpage.

 
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Yes. Time to get these head(s) off. I need to quit worrying about NJ Unemployment. I should be good.. I think..

What do you think of this?
Also. Any tips on which bolts to remove next, to get that bracket off?

 
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Not something I would do, but others may.
I'd just pay to have it done right.

The finish of the sealing surface needs to be glass smooth, just like the factory made it.
IIRC spec is 15-30Ra. Are you gonna get that with sandpaper?
I can't see anything.

Wait. Shall I post the pic of the dude with the crystal ball? Yeah.


LOL

 
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OK! I got the bracket AND TIMING COVER OFF! I think I actually bent the breaker bar a little on the first use. Ha... I got the 24" one.

So, now, I have the timing belt looking at me.

Let me say the obvious: I will NOT re-use the old timing belt, and NOT re-use the old Head Gasket. I have seen both done...

Now, about this timing belt. There is a "proper" way to get it off ? And, if I make a "mark" of some kind, (with what? What am I looking at?) - I can have this head off TOMORROW.

There really isnt much of anything left to remove, except for the head bolts and belt... I think... I would post a pic but im trying to get ready for another phone. Turns out Megas look cool, but mess up...

 
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You are going to replace it, no need to mark the belt.
You need to use the timing marks provided by the factory.

Get the crank pulley bolt to break loose first, then reinstall it just tight enough so you can turn the crank with a ratchet and extension.

Rotate the crankshaft until all timing marks are correctly aligned (both cam marks and crank mark, as per the FSM), then remove the pulley, timing cover, and timing belt as per the service literature.
Don't lose the little rectangular key in the crank pulley!!!!

 
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I will have to push in that tire. I know I am not going UNDER the car; but I also know that it is not safe, as I have it.

Here is what I got so far:

**I DID NOT TURN ANYTHING YET I WAS GOING TO ASK YOU IF I HAVE TO. I believe you that it turns COUNTER-CLOCKWISE... I did nto turn it AT ALL yet, to err on side of caution. Are you saying that I should try turning it to get it back to that point? (and, dumb question: I see the marks on the sprocket, but where are the reference marks outside the sprocket? Or is it just that, "they are level" ?)

 
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No time to thoroughly read your posts right now.
What does your service manual say about performing the timing belt job?
cam gear is 180* out in the pics.

 
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It's weird becase I put the cylinder at TDC.. Are you saying my cam gear is in upside down?

 
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I know you know what you are saying but I don't quite get it. Please check out my video when you can.