First post! And.. issue. My 1995 Honda Civic..
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Re: First post! And.. issue. My 1995 Honda Civic..
Ok you got it to burn fuel and drive, cool beans. Yay.
It's still a noisy clattering SOB though.
I saw you messing with the valve adjusters in one video but never saw a single feeler gauge in use.
Do you need help with how to correctly adjust valve clearances?
It's still a noisy clattering SOB though.
I saw you messing with the valve adjusters in one video but never saw a single feeler gauge in use.
Do you need help with how to correctly adjust valve clearances?
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Re: First post! And.. issue. My 1995 Honda Civic..
The exhaust pipe broke in half, it was louder and, just like first car I had where exhaust pipe also broke in half, I had no power. Sounded like I had a custom exhaust. Which may be my next move, once I get cash. It's too noisy for where I live, that's for sure..
Also. I just ran into one of my former co-worker homies, and they:
1. (Seem to have) FIXED THE IDLE. IACV electrical connector was not plugged in...
2. Told me my "Distributor was too far advanced," told me how to adjust it, demonstrated by letting me hear a "pop" sound when revving, told me that I should adjust it soon because it can damage the motor.
Nice...
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Ok so study up on how to use feeler gauges.
If the exhaust pipe or manifold is broken, that alone sure can let pops and cackles happen so it may not he related.
If the distributor needs adjusted, get a timing light and do it the right way first, then see how it runs.
Did this head cause an increase in compression ratio? Lower it?
Is there detonation happening? Back off the timing a couple degrees if there is and retry. Repeat until no detonation.
If the exhaust pipe or manifold is broken, that alone sure can let pops and cackles happen so it may not he related.
If the distributor needs adjusted, get a timing light and do it the right way first, then see how it runs.
Did this head cause an increase in compression ratio? Lower it?
Is there detonation happening? Back off the timing a couple degrees if there is and retry. Repeat until no detonation.
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Ok so study up on how to use feeler gauges.
If the exhaust pipe or manifold is broken, that alone sure can let pops and cackles happen so it may not he related.
If the distributor needs adjusted, get a timing light and do it the right way first, then see how it runs.
Did this head cause an increase in compression ratio? Lower it?
Is there detonation happening? Back off the timing a couple degrees if there is and retry. Repeat until no detonation.
If the exhaust pipe or manifold is broken, that alone sure can let pops and cackles happen so it may not he related.
If the distributor needs adjusted, get a timing light and do it the right way first, then see how it runs.
Did this head cause an increase in compression ratio? Lower it?
Is there detonation happening? Back off the timing a couple degrees if there is and retry. Repeat until no detonation.
I also realized.. I have that connector shorted by the passenger footwell. If I un-short it, will the computer change the timing?
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You got a D15Z1 head now, but what is your engine block code? I forgot.
I also realized.. I have that connector shorted by the passenger footwell. If I un-short it, will the computer change the timing?
Then you remove the jumper so the computer can calculate and control ignition timing according to temperature, load, and RPM.
If the compression ratio is now significantly different from stock then ignition timing may need some experimenting.
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Just about ready for a cleaning run, full of flush and water.. with no thermostat.. before putting in a Stat.
I should leave that in a day or so. I wonder how cold it will get tonight.
I should leave that in a day or so. I wonder how cold it will get tonight.
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Been driving for the past hour. Stopped about 4 times ...
What it does:
1. Runs perfect
2. Tenperature gauge slowly but surely creeps up..
3. I pull over, leave car to "IGN" (Ignition/run position ??) To let fan come on and cool it down . (I also sometimes hear the fan when the car shuts off.)
4. Within 5 minutes, temperature is back normal. These past two times, it has bee within the past 2 minutes, and fan even shut off early.
What could be going on?
What it does:
1. Runs perfect
2. Tenperature gauge slowly but surely creeps up..
3. I pull over, leave car to "IGN" (Ignition/run position ??) To let fan come on and cool it down . (I also sometimes hear the fan when the car shuts off.)
4. Within 5 minutes, temperature is back normal. These past two times, it has bee within the past 2 minutes, and fan even shut off early.
What could be going on?
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Low coolant level and/or an air lock in the heater system ...and low coolant could explain the surging idle
Got heat?
Got heat?
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I will get a definite answer perhaps tomorrow on the heat. Today, I was focused on other aspects, changed Stat, etc (to a 180 degree) and I noticed this new behavior today. Car runs GREAT though.
My radiator, as I speculate on what it could be, based on what I know:
My radiator, as I speculate on what it could be, based on what I know:
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The core looks like the tiny tubes might be clogged to hell.
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Correct me if I am wrong, but this could keep the fan from coming on as it should?
And... am i, or do you feel, that I am doing anything wrong in my attempt to MEGA-FLUSH this thing, vs replacing.. the radiator?
My whole car seems to be running better after every flush. Not there yet, no. But I even have heat now...
And... am i, or do you feel, that I am doing anything wrong in my attempt to MEGA-FLUSH this thing, vs replacing.. the radiator?
My whole car seems to be running better after every flush. Not there yet, no. But I even have heat now...
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Price a radiator? Is it worth messing with----consider in warmer weather any inefficiency in the cooling system may rear its ugly head.
A bottle of C.L.R. might get some deposits out too.
A pulsating flush gun can do some good.
Yes it could stop the fan IF the fan switch is in the stat housing .
A bottle of C.L.R. might get some deposits out too.
A pulsating flush gun can do some good.
Yes it could stop the fan IF the fan switch is in the stat housing .
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Price a radiator? Is it worth messing with----consider in warmer weather any inefficiency in the cooling system may rear its ugly head.
A bottle of C.L.R. might get some deposits out too.
A pulsating flush gun can do some good.
Yes it could stop the fan IF the fan switch is in the stat housing .
A bottle of C.L.R. might get some deposits out too.
A pulsating flush gun can do some good.
Yes it could stop the fan IF the fan switch is in the stat housing .
I did use some C.L.R., it is helping. Fan runs when I turn the car back on; stays running after its started, is what I mean. It is almost as if flow is freeing up. And maybe even return to normal..
Of course, I have everyone urging me to replace the radiator.
The rest of the system was so dirty I like THE CLR idea. Some say it will kill things, I have heard it won't as long as I don't leave it in forever...
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A radiator is pretty cheap, I would not jack with trying to clean it.
OTOH a heater core is a PITA to replace so I would spend time trying to clean it.
Do thoroughly flush out CLR with plenty of fresh water.
OTOH a heater core is a PITA to replace so I would spend time trying to clean it.
Do thoroughly flush out CLR with plenty of fresh water.
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And my surging idle.. I still don't get why it does that.
Otherwise, the fans are coming on when driving now, just the radiator may be so clogged that that temp just slightly creeps up with use, and sometimes does and sometimes does not come down at a light.
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Did Civics have weak heat anyways?
And my surging idle.. I still don't get why it does that.
Do you want a technical explanation?
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If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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During periods when you take your foot off the gas pedal and are coasting, the computer can shut off the fuel injectors to conserve fuel.
When the RPM reaches about 1200 the injectors are turned on again so the engine doesn't stall as it tries to idle.
So...What YOU have at certain times is:
Engine somewhat warmed up,
throttle sensor voltage indicates closed position
RPM is above 2000: Fuel is shut off.
RPM reaches 1200: Fuel is turned on again.
Repeat ad nauseam.
Your idle speed is higher than it should be --for some reason-- during those times it is surging.
Many different things can cause the idle speed to be higher than it should be.
Vacuum leaks, either internal or external...
Take off the intake snorkel (if it's installed) and use your fingers to block the ports in the sides of the throttle body opening. Does that bring the idle RPM down to a reasonable level or is it still too high?
Coolant flow, low coolant level, poor or no flow through the IAC and FITV can cause those valves to be open much more than should be for a given temperature. IAC and FITV must have good coolant flow in order to control idle speed correctly.
If someone dumped radiator stop leak in it, guess where that stuff can end up......No, not there. Stop leak can also clog in the metal pipes those small hoses attach to.
Same with you trying to flush out the radiator and heater. That same garbage may be clogging the small tubes and hoses for this system.
During warm up while the engine is surging, FEEL the IAC valve and FITV valves (I assume it has a FITV? I can't see from here) with your hands and fingers. Is it hot 150-180* whatever the engine temp is, or is it just lukewarm to the touch?
EDIT: Ooo, that reads kinda random.
When the RPM reaches about 1200 the injectors are turned on again so the engine doesn't stall as it tries to idle.
So...What YOU have at certain times is:
Engine somewhat warmed up,
throttle sensor voltage indicates closed position
RPM is above 2000: Fuel is shut off.
RPM reaches 1200: Fuel is turned on again.
Repeat ad nauseam.
Your idle speed is higher than it should be --for some reason-- during those times it is surging.
Many different things can cause the idle speed to be higher than it should be.
Vacuum leaks, either internal or external...
Take off the intake snorkel (if it's installed) and use your fingers to block the ports in the sides of the throttle body opening. Does that bring the idle RPM down to a reasonable level or is it still too high?
Coolant flow, low coolant level, poor or no flow through the IAC and FITV can cause those valves to be open much more than should be for a given temperature. IAC and FITV must have good coolant flow in order to control idle speed correctly.
If someone dumped radiator stop leak in it, guess where that stuff can end up......No, not there. Stop leak can also clog in the metal pipes those small hoses attach to.
Same with you trying to flush out the radiator and heater. That same garbage may be clogging the small tubes and hoses for this system.
During warm up while the engine is surging, FEEL the IAC valve and FITV valves (I assume it has a FITV? I can't see from here) with your hands and fingers. Is it hot 150-180* whatever the engine temp is, or is it just lukewarm to the touch?
EDIT: Ooo, that reads kinda random.
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During periods when you take your foot off the gas pedal and are coasting, the computer can shut off the fuel injectors to conserve fuel.
When the RPM reaches about 1200 the injectors are turned on again so the engine doesn't stall as it tries to idle.
So...What YOU have at certain times is:
Engine somewhat warmed up,
throttle sensor voltage indicates closed position
RPM is above 2000: Fuel is shut off.
RPM reaches 1200: Fuel is turned on again.
Repeat ad nauseam.
Your idle speed is higher than it should be --for some reason-- during those times it is surging.
Many different things can cause the idle speed to be higher than it should be.
Vacuum leaks, either internal or external...
Take off the intake snorkel (if it's installed) and use your fingers to block the ports in the sides of the throttle body opening. Does that bring the idle RPM down to a reasonable level or is it still too high?
Coolant flow, low coolant level, poor or no flow through the IAC and FITV can cause those valves to be open much more than should be for a given temperature. IAC and FITV must have good coolant flow in order to control idle speed correctly.
If someone dumped radiator stop leak in it, guess where that stuff can end up......No, not there. Stop leak can also clog in the metal pipes those small hoses attach to.
Same with you trying to flush out the radiator and heater. That same garbage may be clogging the small tubes and hoses for this system.
During warm up while the engine is surging, FEEL the IAC valve and FITV valves (I assume it has a FITV? I can't see from here) with your hands and fingers. Is it hot 150-180* whatever the engine temp is, or is it just lukewarm to the touch?
EDIT: Ooo, that reads kinda random.
When the RPM reaches about 1200 the injectors are turned on again so the engine doesn't stall as it tries to idle.
So...What YOU have at certain times is:
Engine somewhat warmed up,
throttle sensor voltage indicates closed position
RPM is above 2000: Fuel is shut off.
RPM reaches 1200: Fuel is turned on again.
Repeat ad nauseam.
Your idle speed is higher than it should be --for some reason-- during those times it is surging.
Many different things can cause the idle speed to be higher than it should be.
Vacuum leaks, either internal or external...
Take off the intake snorkel (if it's installed) and use your fingers to block the ports in the sides of the throttle body opening. Does that bring the idle RPM down to a reasonable level or is it still too high?
Coolant flow, low coolant level, poor or no flow through the IAC and FITV can cause those valves to be open much more than should be for a given temperature. IAC and FITV must have good coolant flow in order to control idle speed correctly.
If someone dumped radiator stop leak in it, guess where that stuff can end up......No, not there. Stop leak can also clog in the metal pipes those small hoses attach to.
Same with you trying to flush out the radiator and heater. That same garbage may be clogging the small tubes and hoses for this system.
During warm up while the engine is surging, FEEL the IAC valve and FITV valves (I assume it has a FITV? I can't see from here) with your hands and fingers. Is it hot 150-180* whatever the engine temp is, or is it just lukewarm to the touch?
EDIT: Ooo, that reads kinda random.
https://youtu.be/4fvvAK-d978
Watch "I MADE THE HEATER CORE ACTUALLY FLOW! OMFG!" on YouTube
https://youtu.be/qpA3-RSiDKM
I hope it embeds right.
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During periods when you take your foot off the gas pedal and are coasting, the computer can shut off the fuel injectors to conserve fuel.
When the RPM reaches about 1200 the injectors are turned on again so the engine doesn't stall as it tries to idle.
So...What YOU have at certain times is:
Engine somewhat warmed up,
throttle sensor voltage indicates closed position
RPM is above 2000: Fuel is shut off.
RPM reaches 1200: Fuel is turned on again.
Repeat ad nauseam.
Your idle speed is higher than it should be --for some reason-- during those times it is surging.
Many different things can cause the idle speed to be higher than it should be.
Vacuum leaks, either internal or external...
Take off the intake snorkel (if it's installed) and use your fingers to block the ports in the sides of the throttle body opening. Does that bring the idle RPM down to a reasonable level or is it still too high?
Coolant flow, low coolant level, poor or no flow through the IAC and FITV can cause those valves to be open much more than should be for a given temperature. IAC and FITV must have good coolant flow in order to control idle speed correctly.
If someone dumped radiator stop leak in it, guess where that stuff can end up......No, not there. Stop leak can also clog in the metal pipes those small hoses attach to.
Same with you trying to flush out the radiator and heater. That same garbage may be clogging the small tubes and hoses for this system.
During warm up while the engine is surging, FEEL the IAC valve and FITV valves (I assume it has a FITV? I can't see from here) with your hands and fingers. Is it hot 150-180* whatever the engine temp is, or is it just lukewarm to the touch?
EDIT: Ooo, that reads kinda random.
When the RPM reaches about 1200 the injectors are turned on again so the engine doesn't stall as it tries to idle.
So...What YOU have at certain times is:
Engine somewhat warmed up,
throttle sensor voltage indicates closed position
RPM is above 2000: Fuel is shut off.
RPM reaches 1200: Fuel is turned on again.
Repeat ad nauseam.
Your idle speed is higher than it should be --for some reason-- during those times it is surging.
Many different things can cause the idle speed to be higher than it should be.
Vacuum leaks, either internal or external...
Take off the intake snorkel (if it's installed) and use your fingers to block the ports in the sides of the throttle body opening. Does that bring the idle RPM down to a reasonable level or is it still too high?
Coolant flow, low coolant level, poor or no flow through the IAC and FITV can cause those valves to be open much more than should be for a given temperature. IAC and FITV must have good coolant flow in order to control idle speed correctly.
If someone dumped radiator stop leak in it, guess where that stuff can end up......No, not there. Stop leak can also clog in the metal pipes those small hoses attach to.
Same with you trying to flush out the radiator and heater. That same garbage may be clogging the small tubes and hoses for this system.
During warm up while the engine is surging, FEEL the IAC valve and FITV valves (I assume it has a FITV? I can't see from here) with your hands and fingers. Is it hot 150-180* whatever the engine temp is, or is it just lukewarm to the touch?
EDIT: Ooo, that reads kinda random.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4fvvAK-d978
Watch "I MADE THE HEATER CORE ACTUALLY FLOW! OMFG!" on YouTube
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qpA3-RSiDKM
I hope it embeds right.
Did somebody turn off embedding or something?
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Congratulations. It runs! Now it just needs to run smoothly (as if any Hondas do, even when running right). I am honestly surprised that the larger bolt worked, that is pretty cool.
How much have you spent so far on parts and supplies for the head gasket replacement?
If you had to do it again, what would you do differently?
How much have you spent so far on parts and supplies for the head gasket replacement?
If you had to do it again, what would you do differently?
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 518 Re: First post! And.. issue. My 1995 Honda Civic..
DNWTFV.
Yeah, unplugging the IAC will cause the computer to stop the surge process....but it can't control the idle speed that way either.
Yeah, unplugging the IAC will cause the computer to stop the surge process....but it can't control the idle speed that way either.
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Congratulations. It runs! Now it just needs to run smoothly (as if any Hondas do, even when running right). I am honestly surprised that the larger bolt worked, that is pretty cool.
How much have you spent so far on parts and supplies for the head gasket replacement?
If you had to do it again, what would you do differently?
How much have you spent so far on parts and supplies for the head gasket replacement?
If you had to do it again, what would you do differently?
https://youtu.be/SUsw_qaPm1E
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 32,017
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 518 Re: First post! And.. issue. My 1995 Honda Civic..
That big screw ....before you wildly cranker......
Carefully turn it all the way in and count the number of turns as you do it....that way you can put it back where it started if necessary. It'll probably be like 1.75-2.25 turns or some such.
And the rest of the systems have to be right before trying to adjust the screw. No vacuum leaks, no stuck IAC or FITV, good coolant flow, engine can reach full operating temp, etc.
Carefully turn it all the way in and count the number of turns as you do it....that way you can put it back where it started if necessary. It'll probably be like 1.75-2.25 turns or some such.
And the rest of the systems have to be right before trying to adjust the screw. No vacuum leaks, no stuck IAC or FITV, good coolant flow, engine can reach full operating temp, etc.
