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I thought about what a Civic would be like with a 1.5 turbo engine from a new Civic Si, and then I wondered how hard the swap would be compared to a K swap. I see no reason why it wouldn't be possible, although I am sure it would take some work lol. I also don't see why someone would want to put a 1.5 turbo engine in, which is probably why it has never been done, but how hard would it be and how much would it cost? Thanks.

 
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Be the pioneer and do a complete write-up on it.

 
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It would be quite unique. I don't really see a reason to not go with a K series though. A K20 or K24 would make just as much power, with the potential to make way more than the 1.5.

 
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Did you upgrade the suspension, wider rims/tires yet?

 
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electronics are the biggest obstacles, usually.

you would need to talk with hondata for ecu, ryan for wiring harness, etc.

 
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I just installed new front struts, outer tie rod ends and lowering springs. I will lower the back too when I replace the back struts, which will be very soon. I also installed Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings for the front control arms, as well as for the front and back sway bars. I also have new strut mounts for the front and rear struts, but it's been too cold to install them since I don't have a garage.): I also need to figure out how to get the stuck ball joints out to replace them before they fall apart. As for wheels and tires, I have 7 inch alloy rims, but I still have 15 inch 195 wide tires. Next time I get tires, I'll get wider ones.

 
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Wiring would be a challenge, but wouldn't a stock ECU run the engine?

 
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The stock ECM that is made to run the 1.5T engine will probably run the 1.5T engine.....but that ECM probably isn't going to be very happy without a whole bunch of other 2016+ systems it expects to see connected to its communication networks.
See, wiring isn't the only challenge......Everything is so integrated these days it isn't even funny.


On the fitfreak forum someone ambitious has plans for swapping a 1.5T into a Fit....
Someone else managed to swap a Honda V6 into a Fit too

 
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the ECU gets a lot of the stuff from the rest of the car, as ezone mentioned.

https://www.rywire.com/

 
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What are examples of what it might want from the rest of the car? Thanks.

 
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You've got a good start...traction first, power second.

 
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I totally agree. Also, I believe that the car should be reliable and in good condition mechanically before upgrading parts.

 
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visit the link, call them and ask, they are the experts.

or call Honda. or Hondata. Why would a normal forum user would know that on an engine that was just released this year?

 
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I'm not really positive the ECM can't function without other systems intact, but I am sure other systems can't function without the ECM communicating on the networks. This may take some experimenting and I ain't got time fo dat.



For example the ABS/TCS/VSA will set numerous codes if it cannot "talk" to the ECM, but I'm not sure if the ECM would set similar codes if the VSA group is missing from the network.

Other stuff that relies on the ECM simply wouldn't work unless they match the communication protocols used by the ECM, a readily apparent one would be the gauges in front of the driver. You'd probably have to rob the donor car of its gauges and that may lead to a host of other stuff needed.

BCM, GCM, TCM, CAN gateway, EPS, VSA, camera and radar, SRS, HVAC audio/navigation and the rest, just about every module in the cars are attached to and relying on any of several different communication networks because they all share data one way or another.

Again, I don't have time to experiment to come up with all the answers as to whether or not the proposal is feasible (others are doing that already)....It's hard enough trying to fix what the engineers designed and what the drivers break to keep my customers mobile and put 2-name-bologna on my own table and a cardboard roof over my head at night.

 
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in other words, feel free to test, try, figure it out and report back

 
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Having personally seen both engine bays, I think it might be more of a headache than other available swaps. Complete rewiring, conversion to drive by wire, routing plumbing would be a nightmare since there's really no room in the EM2 to route a lot of the OE turbo/IC plumbing the L15B7 offers. The L15 itself is a bit bigger than the D17, and like ezone mentioned, the amount of integrated electronics into the engine, as well. Seriously, the first time I peeped under the hood of a FC2/FK7, the first thing I said to the dealer was, "damn, they did not make this engine easy to work on for driveway gearheads like me, did they?"

 
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^^^^ Should be plug & pray... What could go wrong ??

Reliability sure...if you leave them both alone.

Take a good look under the hood of the Si....nothing to the swap yea.

 
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Man you're lucky..my roof is thatched from leaky palm fronds.

 
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I can't hear you over the roar of my garbage barrel fire.

 
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Yea, there really isn't much you can do to the 1.5 turbo to dramatically improve it's power as far as I know. It's so finely tuned that it's reliable power basically maxes out where a K20's starts.

 
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In 30 years driving Japanese autos, Never did (or needed) a single mod.

140 HP R18 @ 5AT... a perfect combination.

Never broken down, or stranded..... ever.

 
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LOL.
Heat? that's easy to produce. Here in Florida during the summer, I'm so poor (cheap) I have to stand in front of a refrigerated dairy case at a local supermarket to get a temporary reprieve of swamp nuts.

 
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Psh, you don't get nearly the same relief as a walk-in beer fridge at the local supermarket/liquor store

 
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I am going to be changing the brake drums and shoes on my 2005 Civic for the first time in 231K miles, but I am a little confused on how to adjust them. I know how to adjust them, but I am not sure what the 'proper' adjustment is. Am I correct in presuming that I should adjust the brakes so the shoes are as close to the drum as I can get them without the brakes dragging? Thanks, I haven't changed drum brakes before, so I am unsure of how to know when the brakes are properly adjusted.

 
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what happens when you search by the part #
what price does it show ?

 
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I *think* they were automatic adjustments.
I personally only opened them once to find the shoes were as new as the new ones i had to go in, so never disassembled them.

just don't let them be too collapsed, or the cylinders could pop out when you step on pedal first time. (all that holds them is the shoes against the drum)

 
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They are self adjusting, but you still have to set up the initial adjustment correctly during assembly.


Megalodong? Mikey?

 
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I concur.

I'm not sure if I did it right but it came down to taking the rim/tire off, adjust start wheel, put tire back on, spin tire, brake: my mom would alternately (on my signal) would either use the foot brake or hand brake. Took about four cycles of tire off/on, adjust star wheel, spin tire, hand/foot brake to find a balance between the tire spinning freely when no brakes applied and tire stopping well when either the hand or foot brake applied.

Ezone (as a follow-up to a PM)...my mom's car's brake pedal feels solid and isn't mushy so, I assume it's adjusted correctly. The hand brake function is much better than it was prior to star wheel adjustment on the passenger side rear. I still feel the hand brake should engage sooner so I may adjust tension under the center console. Will tension one click at a time.

 
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Do ONE SIDE AT A TIME, so you can look at the unmolested side to see how it's supposed to be assembled. NEVER take apart both sides at once (this rule applies to me too!)

Initial adjustment:

Drum off, shoes/springs/linkage correctly assembled, handbrake fully released, cables slack, mechanisms in drums all the way back (no sticking cables)

Crank up the adjuster to widen the link
periodically check if the drum fits over the shoes or not
As soon as the drum won't go on, back off the adjuster about 4 clicks and retry, repeat until drum will slip on

To back off the adjuster you must first release (pull out) the self adjuster lever away from the toothed portion of the star wheel, as it is designed to only work one direction. You can spin the wheel one way and the teeth ratchet past the lever but it tries to lock when you turn it the opposite direction.

You want to make it so the drum slips on without binding on the shoes and will turn without binding on the shoes. A small amount of drag as it spins is ok but it has to be free enough to turn the bare drum by hand.

If shoe adjustment is too loose, the pedal will feel low and the handbrake will be high.

If adjustment is too tight, you will have a helluva time getting the drum off to readjust, and the brake will drag and overheat.
It's a huge PITA to back the adjuster off if the drum is stuck, so don't get it stuck.

 
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I know that disc brakes can be used more without fading, but when cold, do they actually stop better? For example: Imagine that traction is not a limiting factor, and I had a car with disc brakes in the front and drum brakes in the back. Imagine that I was going 60 MPH and I have to quickly stop, so I slam on the brakes. Then, imagine that I convert to 4 wheel disc brakes and do the same thing again. With all else being equal, would the car stop any quicker with disc brakes, and why? Thanks.