Rep Power: 119

I don’t think that coasting down a hill in fuel cutoff will heat it up much either. I agree that idling won’t heat the engine up very much, and I think idling a cold engine does much more harm than good because it causes cylinder wash, carbon buildup, fuel in oil etc. So you think I am doing the right thing?

 
Rep Power: 211

Your car..do want you want.
My dad drove his car for a few years with tape over the CEL light. I don't even know if he ever had the codes read. I ended up selling that car (1999 Lexus) after he passed five years ago. I wouldn't be surprised if it's still running.

 
Rep Power: 211

For $70 I wouldn't expect much in quality. Ever consider going back to stock manifold since header isn't providing power gains anyway?

 
Rep Power: 368

sounds right.

 
Rep Power: 368

O2 sensor location is only for one cylinder.
they don't show where the 4 tubes merge - that's apart of what defines a good header or not.
find one in a scrap yard - they easy to pull off, aside from frozen bolts (take PB blast with you)
car-part.com

 
Rep Power: 368

when a new (more dangerous code) comes up, you will know instantly.

PS: I have the seat belt SRS lightning up, but a previous SRS was actually the Siemens Computer controlling the SRS, so i was completely on my own if something happened.

 
Rep Power: 119

I have a Scanguage, so I scan for codes when I get gas. It's as easy as pressing a button.

 
Rep Power: 119

That's OK, my downpipe has an o2 sensor hole anyway.

 
Rep Power: 519

This literally does nothing good. If you think it does, then it's all in your head.
Worst point: a blocked off radiator can easily lead to overheating, even in the winter.




Thermostat: What is it good for?




For quickest warmup time, I'd agree with the above with the exception of letting it run 30-60.


To generate HEAT, the engine has to BURN FUEL. The more fuel it burns, the more heat it makes. If you make it work while burning that fuel, you increase efficiency first by actually going places while it's warming up instead of sitting still just burning (wasting) that fuel, and second by shortening the time needed to reach operating temperature (and most efficient operation).

I usually just slap my car in gear and start driving just as soon as it's running.
(OTOH my old truck has a carb with no choke, I can't just jump in and drive, I HAVE to run it a little while before it will stay running on its own at all)


I know this absolutely murders my fuel economy.........but when it's bitter cold (usually only 10*F or less when it's just me) I may remote start my car and let it run 10-15 minutes while I get ready to leave in the mornings.....just to take the edge off.

It's nowhere near fully warmed up in that time either, but there's at least a little heat pumping out the heater vents by that time.


I don't worry about my oil. The oil I use is good enough (Hondas full syn 0w20, same as what goes in most customer cars at the shop)

Hell my daily commute is short enough (5.6 miles each way) my engine never reaches full operating temp for weeks at a time in the winter....... unless I go out of town or something.
I still don't worry about oil dilution or engine wear.

I change oil in my Civic maybe once per year, I've been driving just about 5k or so per year.


The undercar sprayers help a lot IMO .

Wait....Y'all use salt down there?
If I guess right...I'm probably about 300-350 miles north of you and we've only been getting about one good snow per year anymore.

But.....Our road crews salt the roads here as soon as temps dip in to the mid 30s...and we have that damn brine stuff here too. That crap seems way more corrosive than plain salt.

 
Rep Power: 519

Yep, you are.

I'm not worried, my car runs just fine. LOL

 
Rep Power: 211

And thanks to Ezone and others here my car runs fine too. For now, anyways..

 
Rep Power: 119

Yea, the CEL is almost never serious. Probably a bad cat or something.

 
Rep Power: 119

What would a “dangerous” CEL code be? P0325 or something? It’s not exactly like the CEL will save your engine by coming on if you let it run out of oil or something! I can’t really think of a time where I was thing to myself “I really wish my would have come on to warn me about this!” Well except when my cam plug popped out and killed my engine. RIP D17A1. Gone but will never be forgotten...

 
Rep Power: 368

you answered one of them yourself
misfires comes to mind too.

 
Rep Power: 119

The engine light won’t come on for low oil pressure. Also, a misfire would cause the to flash, and I would also feel a misfire. I don’t think a misfire would damage the engine anyway. I bought a 2000 Dodge Stratus that had a bad spark plug. The guy was such a cheap*** that he unplugged the fuel injector for that cylinder and ran it on 3 cylinders with the bad spark plug for 35K miles! It never did do any damage, but he probably paid more for extra fuel than he would have for a new spark plug

 
Rep Power: 368

OK

scangauge does help, i have mine too

but do prefer to have it off

 
Rep Power: 119

I have a 2005 Civic with a D17A2 engine. I am looking to upgrade my camshaft to get more power. I have heard of someone using a camshaft from another VTEC engine, I think a D series, but maybe a SOHC F series in the D17 and making more power. I can’t remember for the life of me which cam they used, I think maybe a D16Y8 or Z6 cam? Really not sure. I am wondering what camshaft upgrade options I have besides Crower. Thanks!

 
Rep Power: 119

I am wondering of I could have the camshaft for my D17A2 reground to the specs of a Crower Stage 1 so I could get the same performance benefit of upgrading to a Crower camshaft for a much lower cost. Would that be possible? Thanks.

 
Rep Power: 119

The more you grind it away the less there is to open the valves.

Then you need to get higher ratio rocker arms to gain back the lift..

Good luck finding high ratio rocker arms for less than just buying the correctly ground Crowley cam..

 
Rep Power: 244

Crower is it. It’s a D17 not a K series, won’t be many options for stuff. Another D series can might work, idk.
There was a company that would do custom grinds (would even do ones for none vtec engines) but I can’t remember the name of the company. If they are even still in business. It had a frog as a logo I think...

Found it; https://www.gude.com/Products/camlist.php#honda

I looked into it before and I think he regrinds an OEM one and it was the cost of a new one but if you have an Lx that’s your only option besides a head swap.

 
Rep Power: 119

I want to do a unique engine swap in my 2005 Civic. I thought about doing a B or H swap, but I can't because in the USA, the engine has to be the same year as the car to be legal. I think that a F22 swap with an engine from a S2000 would be cool, but I can think of several reasons why it wouldn't be practical. Not the least of which is that the S2000 is obviously RWD, so I'm not sure how I would get power to the front wheels. Has this been done before? I know that other people have done F2K swaps in Civics, but I couldn't find anyone who did this in a 7th gen, so any input would be appreciated. Thanks.

 
Rep Power: 519

According to everything I've ever read about EPA and federal emissions regulations, "technically" an engine (repower) is not supposed to be older than the car it's installed in.

You can chop out the floor all you want to install a rear wheel drive powertrain. Google V8 Civic LOL

 
Rep Power: 244

Google Civette I believe was its name.

Don’t think an F swap has been done in a 7th gen, B series yes and of course K. Can you fabricate things? Weld? Custom wire harness and possibly drive shafts?

It would be unique, go for it. Same year engine or newer.

 
Rep Power: 368

They can get more power from K.
S2k are notorious for not getting additional power easily. It was already highly tuned. Most modifications actually decreased torque power.

And what are you talking about moving power delivery from back to front?!?

Read more about engine swaps... mating engine to transmissions is part of the process...

 
Rep Power: 368

Ah, there's the cibaru too.

 
Rep Power: 119

Thank you. The other question I have is where will the power gain be in the RPM range? Will I lose low end torque, or gain power everywhere? What is the disadvantage to this cam over stock? There must be a disadvantage since it didn't come with a cam like this from the factory.

 
Rep Power: 368

I see you did not read the link....

there are dino charts in there, you know...

 
Rep Power: 119

I completely missed the dyno charts lol. They must not have displayed properly in my iPad. Thanks for pointing that out.

 
Rep Power: 512

I'll make it easy for you. Here's a direct link to the post with the dynos
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/7...ml#post4596256

Just to give you a frame of reference for OEM dynos:
D17A2 AT makes ~90whp
D17A2 MT makes ~110whp
D17A2 is rated at 127BHP (horsepower at the crankshaft, disregarding losses at the transmission or wheels)

Don't ask me for a source on those. Just numbers I've seen from being on this forum for... 14+ years

Numbers posted if you don't wanna see the dyno charts (in posted order):
AT with intake (unsure of transmission): 116.9whp
MT with I/H/E (elevation of 6500'): 118.68whp
MT with I/H/E: 124.5whp
MT with laundry list of mods: 128.11whp

 
Rep Power: 119

I just ordered a Crower Stage 1 camshaft, P/N 63461 for my D17A2. I have a couple questions. I know how to install it, but I have never replaced a camshaft with a new one before, so I have a couple questions.
1. What procedure do I follow after I lube and install the camshaft to break it in? I presume I just vary the RPMs frequently, don’t run it hard and check/adjust the valve lash after it breaks in, but I’m not sure.
2. I am due for an oil change. Do I change the oil and filter before or after I break in the cam?
3. Will the performance benefits of the camshaft be immediate, or will the ECU need to adjust?

Thanks in advance for the help, and sorry for the stupid questions, I just want to make sure I don’t screw something up.