View Poll Results: Will polishing the inside of an intake manifold improve performance?
Yes, it will improve performance
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No, it won’t do anything at all
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No, it will reduce performance
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Voters: 3. You may not vote on this poll
D17VTECPOWER threads consolidated - how a member should not behave
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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Re: Ideal oil temp?
IMHO an ideal temp for synthetic is the same ideal temp as conventional....just the syn will supposedly tolerate higher working temps before breakdown.
Ideal temp is hot enough---and stay at that temp for sufficient length of time--- to steam off or boil off contaminants-- condensation of water and fuel. It does not need to get any hotter than that, IMO there is no benefit beyond that point.
Oil temp typically rises much slower than say cooling system temperature.
Todays oils are light years ahead of what they were 25-30 years ago. I don't think you have much to worry about there if you use something from a reputable company in the recommended viscosity (5w20).
FWIW the 5w20 we use for plain everyday oil changes at my dealer is semi-synthetic and the 0w20 is full synthetic.
I've read that average typical ATF breakdown increases exponentially as it goes above about 200F, and you seem to have plenty of cooling for that fluid.
The majority of the heat is at the pistons themselves, not bearings.
The EX/VTEC engines have oil squirters that spray the bottom of the pistons to help cool them.
If your oil pan says 180 I think that's a fine temp.
The majority of the heat for the cooling system is in the cylinder head, and to a lesser extent in the water jacket surrounding the cylinder bores.
The engines heat originates in the combustion chambers and areas where the gasoline is burned. Therefore the hottest areas of the engine are immediately surrounding the combustion areas. (ignoring the exhaust system)
Ideal temp is hot enough---and stay at that temp for sufficient length of time--- to steam off or boil off contaminants-- condensation of water and fuel. It does not need to get any hotter than that, IMO there is no benefit beyond that point.
Oil temp typically rises much slower than say cooling system temperature.
Todays oils are light years ahead of what they were 25-30 years ago. I don't think you have much to worry about there if you use something from a reputable company in the recommended viscosity (5w20).
FWIW the 5w20 we use for plain everyday oil changes at my dealer is semi-synthetic and the 0w20 is full synthetic.
I've read that average typical ATF breakdown increases exponentially as it goes above about 200F, and you seem to have plenty of cooling for that fluid.
the bearings........ etc. would have to be MUCH hotter.
The EX/VTEC engines have oil squirters that spray the bottom of the pistons to help cool them.
If your oil pan says 180 I think that's a fine temp.
The majority of the heat for the cooling system is in the cylinder head, and to a lesser extent in the water jacket surrounding the cylinder bores.
The engines heat originates in the combustion chambers and areas where the gasoline is burned. Therefore the hottest areas of the engine are immediately surrounding the combustion areas. (ignoring the exhaust system)
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Rep Power: 119 Re: Ideal oil temp?
have you been in the miatanet?
we were recently discussing that...
If the engine parts are all working correctly, it should be around 180.
but during a heavy traffic, stop-and-go i was while crossing Atlanta, it crept up to 220.
several years ago, engine is still good.
Pressure and temp gauges on my civic. What worries for real is loss of pressure.
we were recently discussing that...
If the engine parts are all working correctly, it should be around 180.
but during a heavy traffic, stop-and-go i was while crossing Atlanta, it crept up to 220.
several years ago, engine is still good.
Pressure and temp gauges on my civic. What worries for real is loss of pressure.
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Rep Power: 119 Re: Ideal oil temp?
IMHO an ideal temp for synthetic is the same ideal temp as conventional....just the syn will supposedly tolerate higher working temps before breakdown.
Ideal temp is hot enough---and stay at that temp for sufficient length of time--- to steam off or boil off contaminants-- condensation of water and fuel. It does not need to get any hotter than that, IMO there is no benefit beyond that point.
Oil temp typically rises much slower than say cooling system temperature.
Todays oils are light years ahead of what they were 25-30 years ago. I don't think you have much to worry about there if you use something from a reputable company in the recommended viscosity (5w20).
FWIW the 5w20 we use for plain everyday oil changes at my dealer is semi-synthetic and the 0w20 is full synthetic.
I've read that average typical ATF breakdown increases exponentially as it goes above about 200F, and you seem to have plenty of cooling for that fluid.
The majority of the heat is at the pistons themselves, not bearings.
The EX/VTEC engines have oil squirters that spray the bottom of the pistons to help cool them.
If your oil pan says 180 I think that's a fine temp.
The majority of the heat for the cooling system is in the cylinder head, and to a lesser extent in the water jacket surrounding the cylinder bores.
The engines heat originates in the combustion chambers and areas where the gasoline is burned. Therefore the hottest areas of the engine are immediately surrounding the combustion areas. (ignoring the exhaust system)
Ideal temp is hot enough---and stay at that temp for sufficient length of time--- to steam off or boil off contaminants-- condensation of water and fuel. It does not need to get any hotter than that, IMO there is no benefit beyond that point.
Oil temp typically rises much slower than say cooling system temperature.
Todays oils are light years ahead of what they were 25-30 years ago. I don't think you have much to worry about there if you use something from a reputable company in the recommended viscosity (5w20).
FWIW the 5w20 we use for plain everyday oil changes at my dealer is semi-synthetic and the 0w20 is full synthetic.
I've read that average typical ATF breakdown increases exponentially as it goes above about 200F, and you seem to have plenty of cooling for that fluid.
The majority of the heat is at the pistons themselves, not bearings.
The EX/VTEC engines have oil squirters that spray the bottom of the pistons to help cool them.
If your oil pan says 180 I think that's a fine temp.
The majority of the heat for the cooling system is in the cylinder head, and to a lesser extent in the water jacket surrounding the cylinder bores.
The engines heat originates in the combustion chambers and areas where the gasoline is burned. Therefore the hottest areas of the engine are immediately surrounding the combustion areas. (ignoring the exhaust system)
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Rep Power: 119 Re: Did I tow too much?
TCC unlocks with changes in load.
Correct. Fluid coupling.
The TCC IS a clutch.
Fluid coupling plus mechanical lock. Best of both worlds.
But it is not indestructible. Nothing in the trans is overbuilt, it was only intended to pull around the car it was installed in, not a whole extra car LOL.
Slip-lock: slow regulated engagement and/or partial engagement of the TCC.
I'd say mostly to minimize the drivetrain and driver shock of TCC apply, plus probably more reasons I don't care about.
That's how the engineers designed it.
Just know that it is something they designed it to do.
If you know what you are looking for, you might see it happen on the tach. IDK if it's real obvious on the Civic but I know I can watch it happen on some of the other cars/vans.
If you ever got to drive.... say some older GM cars from the mid 80s to early-mid 90s pops into my mind, their TCC apply was like an ON/OFF switch.....it was sudden and sometimes you definitely KNEW when it engaged. My old 1990 Park Avenue would engage it at exactly 48 MPH if you weren't deep in the gas pedal, and unlock it as vehicle speed dropped below 46.
Correct. Fluid coupling.
The TCC IS a clutch.
Fluid coupling plus mechanical lock. Best of both worlds.
But it is not indestructible. Nothing in the trans is overbuilt, it was only intended to pull around the car it was installed in, not a whole extra car LOL.
Slip-lock: slow regulated engagement and/or partial engagement of the TCC.
I'd say mostly to minimize the drivetrain and driver shock of TCC apply, plus probably more reasons I don't care about.
That's how the engineers designed it.
Just know that it is something they designed it to do.
If you know what you are looking for, you might see it happen on the tach. IDK if it's real obvious on the Civic but I know I can watch it happen on some of the other cars/vans.
If you ever got to drive.... say some older GM cars from the mid 80s to early-mid 90s pops into my mind, their TCC apply was like an ON/OFF switch.....it was sudden and sometimes you definitely KNEW when it engaged. My old 1990 Park Avenue would engage it at exactly 48 MPH if you weren't deep in the gas pedal, and unlock it as vehicle speed dropped below 46.
Joined: Dec 2008
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From: TN
Rep Power: 368 Re: Ideal oil temp?
thinking too much about it unless it goes too hot
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 519 Re: Ideal oil temp?
If you run it hard enough long enough the header can glow too.
Many GMs ran that high as normal operating temp.....The radiator fan kicked on around 223-225F. (Not sure if they still run them that high or not). Running that hot helps increase fuel efficiency, but I'm sure there are trade offs.
I was going by what Sdaidoji said about the piston squirters. ...but I can't find factory service info to confirm that and I can't remember those minor details about the few D17 blocks I've had open in the past.
Forget I said anything about it. Maybe sdaidoji will drop back in and confirm or deny.
So without piston oil squirters, how does oil get to the pistons?
I presume that the cooler the oil is (to a point), the more the pistons will be cooled, and therefore the less likely detonation is? Not sure about that.
I don't think oil temp has much to do with controlling detonation even if it had conventional ignition. Coolant temp and compression ratios would probably have greater influence on that IMO.
The engines never seemed to have issues with real detonation. I've really never noticed spark rattle (preignition) either.
And as for the viscosity, I use 0w20. Is that OK? Thanks.
ALL 0w20 oil is semi-synthetic or better.
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From: Memphis, TN
Rep Power: 119 Re: Ideal oil temp?
It may run that high at times, especially if you keep a huge load on it.
If you run it hard enough long enough the header can glow too.
Many GMs ran that high as normal operating temp.....The radiator fan kicked on around 223-225F. (Not sure if they still run them that high or not). Running that hot helps increase fuel efficiency, but I'm sure there are trade offs.
LX didn't come with D17A2/VTEC.
I was going by what Sdaidoji said about the piston squirters. ...but I can't find factory service info to confirm that and I can't remember those minor details about the few D17 blocks I've had open in the past.
Forget I said anything about it. Maybe sdaidoji will drop back in and confirm or deny.
Splash. They all run knock sensor ignition, so it should be a non-issue.
I don't think oil temp has much to do with controlling detonation even if it had conventional ignition. Coolant temp and compression ratios would probably have greater influence on that IMO.
The engines never seemed to have issues with real detonation. I've really never noticed spark rattle (preignition) either.
It's use is approved by Honda for that engine, so "sure".
ALL 0w20 oil is semi-synthetic or better.
If you run it hard enough long enough the header can glow too.
Many GMs ran that high as normal operating temp.....The radiator fan kicked on around 223-225F. (Not sure if they still run them that high or not). Running that hot helps increase fuel efficiency, but I'm sure there are trade offs.
LX didn't come with D17A2/VTEC.
I was going by what Sdaidoji said about the piston squirters. ...but I can't find factory service info to confirm that and I can't remember those minor details about the few D17 blocks I've had open in the past.
Forget I said anything about it. Maybe sdaidoji will drop back in and confirm or deny.
Splash. They all run knock sensor ignition, so it should be a non-issue.
I don't think oil temp has much to do with controlling detonation even if it had conventional ignition. Coolant temp and compression ratios would probably have greater influence on that IMO.
The engines never seemed to have issues with real detonation. I've really never noticed spark rattle (preignition) either.
It's use is approved by Honda for that engine, so "sure".
ALL 0w20 oil is semi-synthetic or better.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 519 Re: Did I tow too much?
Must rev high for more power.
Downshift happens when power is needed.
Converter unlocks with small changes of throttle.
I think TCC is off during shifts (did not check).
A torque converter can multiply applied torque, but that is greatest at stall speed (max RPM difference between input RPM and zero output RPM). There is very little of this advantage when RPM difference is similar, and zero torque advantage when TCC is in lockup.
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Rep Power: 119 Re: Did I tow too much?
Small engine makes little power at low RPM.
Must rev high for more power.
Downshift happens when power is needed.
Converter unlocks with small changes of throttle.
I think TCC is off during shifts (did not check).
A torque converter can multiply applied torque, but that is greatest at stall speed (max RPM difference between input RPM and zero output RPM). There is very little of this advantage when RPM difference is similar, and zero torque advantage when TCC is in lockup.
Must rev high for more power.
Downshift happens when power is needed.
Converter unlocks with small changes of throttle.
I think TCC is off during shifts (did not check).
A torque converter can multiply applied torque, but that is greatest at stall speed (max RPM difference between input RPM and zero output RPM). There is very little of this advantage when RPM difference is similar, and zero torque advantage when TCC is in lockup.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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From: Memphis, TN
Rep Power: 119 Re: Did I tow too much?
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Rep Power: 119 What effect does open header have on HP?
My 2005 Civic VTEC has a D16Y8 intake manifold, 3 inch custom air intake, DC Sport 4-1 header and 2.25 inch straight pipe exhaust. I recently took the entire exhaust system off to do some work, and the car has no exhaust besides the DC Sport 4-1 header. What effect does an open header have on power? The engine runs fine with or without the exhaust, I don’t think that it runs much different either way. With the stock non-VTEC exhaust, the engine was definately much stronger with no exhaust, but the non VTEC exhaust is stupid small for the modded D17A2, so that is to be expected. So is the engine stronger with or without an exhaust system? Like I said, I really can’t tell much difference in the way the engine runs since I took the exhaust off, but I’m curious about if the power is better or worse. Thanks.
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Rep Power: 119 Stage 1 cam?
How much power would I gain on my 2005 Civic with intake, header, Y8 intake manifold and 2.25 inch straight pipe exhaust if I upgrade to a Crower Stage 1 cam? I have heard mixed results ranging from the difference would be barely noticeable to it is the single best performance mod you can do to a D17 for the money, and the difference is night and day. What do you think?
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Rep Power: 119 DIY cylinder head porting on exhaust port?
The exhaust port looks incredibly small on the D17 head compared to the exhaust header IMO, so I was thinking of doing a port and polish by hand to try to get better flow. My question is would this be a good or bad idea? I was thinking pull exhaust header, crank engine to TDC on that cylinder to close valves, use a Dremel to enlarge the port a little bit, use a ball hone to smooth it out, blow debris out of port with air compressor and brake cleaner, repeat for other cylinders. What do you think? I think I could gain at least 8-10 HP from doing this. After all, CNC machines weren’t around forever
. Performance enthusiasts have been doing this for years, so why not?
. Performance enthusiasts have been doing this for years, so why not? 
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From: Las Vegas, NV
Rep Power: 512 Re: Stage 1 cam?
It was definitely noticeable. Not a lot, but enough to notice over stock
My setup was Crower stage 1, AEM V2 intake, Kamikaze ceramic coated header, Random Technology high flow cat (2.25" piping), A'PEXi WS2 cat-back (60mm/2.36" piping)
My setup was Crower stage 1, AEM V2 intake, Kamikaze ceramic coated header, Random Technology high flow cat (2.25" piping), A'PEXi WS2 cat-back (60mm/2.36" piping)
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Rep Power: 119 Re: Stage 1 cam?
Cool, thanks. So if someone changed your cam overnight and didn’t tell you, you’d notice?
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Rep Power: 368 Re: Ideal oil temp?
yep, EX have oil squirters on the under pistons. Also, slightly higher compression
that's what have been placed several years ago about the differences in the block
that's what have been placed several years ago about the differences in the block
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Rep Power: 368 Re: Stage 1 cam?
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/7...ge-1-cams.html
it would be noticed, yes.
estimates are with I/H/E to get about 35HP - the most these engines coukd get.
note: due to Photobucket policy change, a lot of pictures were lost in the link
it would be noticed, yes.
estimates are with I/H/E to get about 35HP - the most these engines coukd get.
note: due to Photobucket policy change, a lot of pictures were lost in the link
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From: TN
Rep Power: 368 Re: What effect does open header have on HP?
the power of the law will quickly catch you from a mile away if you run with only header. Too loud, like a truck. but louder.
you will lose low RPM torque, which is the most important for daily driving. Basic engine theory.
you will lose low RPM torque, which is the most important for daily driving. Basic engine theory.
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Rep Power: 119 Re: Stage 1 cam?
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/7...ge-1-cams.html
it would be noticed, yes.
estimates are with I/H/E to get about 35HP - the most these engines coukd get.
note: due to Photobucket policy change, a lot of pictures were lost in the link
it would be noticed, yes.
estimates are with I/H/E to get about 35HP - the most these engines coukd get.
note: due to Photobucket policy change, a lot of pictures were lost in the link
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Rep Power: 119 Re: Ideal oil temp?
? It did have higher compression though. Thread Starter
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Rep Power: 119 Re: What effect does open header have on HP?
Good point about noise. I plan to put the exhaust back on this weekend. What happens to top end power with no exhaust though?
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From: Las Vegas, NV
Rep Power: 512 Re: What effect does open header have on HP?
No matter what, it'll be offset by the severe lack of low end torque. When I first installed my header way back when, it got offset by a half inch. Car sounded like a Harley and couldn't get up a driveway. Car needs backpressure
