Here: http://www.7thgenhonda.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=125921

Here: https://www.google.com/search?num=50....0.oSAL4jnxbKw

What are the gear ratios?

Damn dude..you want me to hold your pee-pee too while you go wee-wee?
You can Google search just as well as I can.

Ohh. didn,t know this was a full service forum...

I tried searching and couldn't find anything.

USDM: Reply #4 in this thread: https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...ar-ratios.html
JDM: Call or email this company and ask for gear ratios: https://www.jspecauto.com/jdm-engine...-Transmissions

I emailed them and asked. I will reply with what they say. Thank you for your help.

They responded. Here is what they said:
"Hi Avery,


Thank you for contacting us. I regret, we do not have that info. We sell JDM transmissions and apparently they don't have the over drive gear. So, it will rev a few hundred higher rpm than your current one.

Thanks
Sam"

Any other ideas?

This is something that I have searched for for hours and I couldn't find a general opinion on polyurethane bushings except that they last forever. I have heard opinions varying from they are terrible and will cause problems to people saying that they are a great upgrade for the money. What is true? My experience with polyurethane bushings is I installed polyurethane motor mount inserts, which I like a lot. The engine moves a lot less and I feel that torque steer and throttle response is better. However, to be fair, the factory mounts were worn out. I also installed polyurethane sway bar bushings in the front and back. I didn't notice much improvement, but, to be fair, the factory bushings were in reasonably good shape. The other bushings I changed are the front control arm bushings. The front control arm bushings needed to be changed anyway, so I used polyurethane ones. I noticed that the car quit clunking and squeaking over bumps, and the steering felt more precise and responsive. I am not sure if the handling improvement was from the bushings being new, or if it was from installing polyurethane bushings.I am considering converting the bushings on my back suspension to polyurethane too, but I won't convert to polyurethane until I need to change the bushings if it would be a waste of time and money. So what do you think of polyurethane bushings?

Consider doing an auto to manual swap...but that can get pricey.

JDM sellers claim they import low mileage engines/transmission but there's no way to confirm either. Much debate about it online. Ultimately, it's your call and it's a tough one because it's hard to find a low mileage USDM transmission on a 13+ year old car so, obviously the fear of used replacement part is inherent.

I have a SLXA transmission sitting in the corner waiting to go in. I will lock the transmission in gears 2, 3 and 4 and see what the MPH reads at 5000 RPM in each gear with the car on jack stands to eliminate torque converter slip as a variable before and after swapping and post the results for anyone else wondering. That won't give me the exact gear ratios, but it will give me an idea of how different they are between the 2 transmissions.

BUSHINGS:
From what I've read (haven't owned any poly's) with poly bushings it seems that most complaints are about squeaking..which can usually be solved with lithium or graphite grease. They are supposed to last a (car's) lifetime where rubber wears. As far performance when poly and rubber is new it's probably negligible

MOTOR MOUNTS:
Increased Durometer equals increased NVH. I've installed a 70 durometer poly transmission (nearest firewall) mount (only) on a manual transmission '07 Mazda 3 (2.3L) and it reduced wheel hop very noticeably. For the first three months the dash and steering wheel would vibrate harshly but, from the forth month on it wasn't an issue.

For me the one poly mount was enough and I think more poly mounts would have made it unbearable as far as vibration and noise.

Hope it goes well. Might as well change the rear main seal while it's out.

Thanks. I would change the rear main seal, but I just rebuilt the engine less than a year ago, so all the gaskets are already pretty new. Great advice though.

you will need to grease them once a year at the least so that they will not squeak. Some greases every 6 months because of that.

they get firmer, but remember that the ones where they need to rotate, they will rotate. no binding to the sleeve, so they will move freely.

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/2...fications.html

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...ios-26279.html

https://teamdelsol.com/honda-transmi...tios-d-series/

http://www.jbcarpages.com/honda/civic/2004/specs/

i did not look details, but you can find a lot of info in wikipedia as well.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_o..._transmissions

silicone grease or gtfo for poly

My 2005 Civic has had a stock fuel system until now. I recently upgraded the fuel system on my slightly modified D17A2. The upgrades that I did included upgrading the wiring going to the fuel pump, as well as running a 3/8 inch fuel line to replace the factory one. I tested the fuel pressure and fuel pump voltage at idle At idle with a new Denso fuel pump and filter, the fuel pressure was 46 PSI. The fuel pump voltage was 13.2 volts, about 1 volt lower than battery voltage. When I snapped the throttle, fuel pressure dropped to about 41 PSI for a split second, a 5 PSI drop. But at a steady 4000 RPM, the pressure went back to 46 PSI. But after I upgraded the fuel pump wiring to 12 gauge, the fuel pump voltage was 14.1 volts, 0.9 volts higher. Fuel pressure readings were still 46 PSI at a steady RPM, but fuel pressure stayed 1 PSI higher at 42 PSI when I snap the throttle wide open. Not a huge difference, but it wasn’t worse. I then upgraded the fuel line to 3/8 inch. The fuel pressure was still 46 PSI at idle and a steady 4000 RPM, but when I snap the throttle wide open, the pressure only momentarily drops to 45 PSI, 3 PSI higher. So after upgrading the fuel line and fuel pump wiring, the fuel pressure stays 4 PSI higher when I quickly snap the throttle wide open. I would say that I saw a pretty good improvement for just upgrading wires and the fuel line. After I drove the car after the upgrade, it unsurprisingly didn’t feel any faster. However, when I quickly floor it, it does seem to respond a little quicker. Let me repeat: It did NOT make more power. I suspect that the improvement that I saw in the fuel pressure was mostly because the larger line that I installed stores more fuel for a more steady supply, not because it flows better. I suspect that a heavily modified engine, like one with a turbo, would see a bigger improvement. I think that it’s important to do these 2 upgrades together for the maximum benefit. But anyways, pretty cool results that I thought were worth sharing.

Did you get the rebate on them? They have good rebates on tires right now

Well I'm sure anything above Barum will be an improvement! What suspension mods do you have on your civic or what mods will you be doing to it?

Everything I did to it is under “About Me” in my profile. Not sure what other suspension mods to do. Any ideas?

"but dyno"

Good work...thanks for sharing that.

I highly doubt that I would see any HP improvement, but like I said, the car seemed to respond slightly quicker to quickly flooring it. Not a huge difference, but noticeable. I didn’t notice any changes driving normally though.

BUTT with two "t"s

Kaleco Auto has it! <--linkyclick

god speed springs?

think on tokiko blues (HP) shocks. you might need them soon

I personally think the gen 7 civics with the d17's would make a great spec racing class...

1) cars are inexpensive
2) d17 are reliable
3) nothing really adds hp to the d17 other than a turbo, super charger, or nos...so outlaw that stuff
4) cams are easy to pull for tech
5) with evenly matched hp setups, the racing would come down to the driver....

What do you mean? These are the springs I used:

Really? My experiences with them would suggest otherwise.

I've had no issues with mine...(besides losing a rod bearing due to 10lbs of boost...)or the one i built for a friend.
OEM gaskets, correct torque specs, and tolerances go a long way.