View Poll Results: Will polishing the inside of an intake manifold improve performance?
Yes, it will improve performance
0
0%
No, it won’t do anything at all
3
100.00%
No, it will reduce performance
0
0%
Voters: 3. You may not vote on this poll
D17VTECPOWER threads consolidated - how a member should not behave
Re: What’s with the JDM obsession?
I consider some things that are Japanese to be of higher quality. Cars, knives, measurement instruments just to name a few.
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Re: What’s with the JDM obsession?
JDM obsession?
JDM isn't about just Hondas.
I think a lot of it is about all the (admittedly some cool) stuff they have over there (and other markets of the world) that we don't get over here in North America.
Models, engines, transmissions, options, equipment, features, etc.
LOL'd
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Rep Power: 511 Re: What’s with the JDM obsession?
Like golnat said, go to Japan and you'll see an inverse USDM craze compared to the JDM craze here. Its all about "I can't get this here"
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Rep Power: 210 Re: Bigger throttle body?
A stock D17 is not worth adding any performance mods to so why waste time contemplating a larger TB?
This question had been asked on other forums with other engines and the consensus a larger diameter bore TB will affect low end performance.
This question had been asked on other forums with other engines and the consensus a larger diameter bore TB will affect low end performance.
Last edited by Wankenstein; Feb 1, 2018 at 05:33 AM.
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Rep Power: 118 EASY tricks to fix stripped bolt holes!
I was changing my header gasket, and I stripped one of the bolt holes in the head. I didn’t put much torque on it, but it stripped. Not a good moment. But then I realized that there may be enough threads in the bolt hole to fix this. So I did. What I did is I got a longer bolt the same size as the stripped hole, and a nut. I put the nut over the bolt, and screwed the longer bolt into the stripped hole until it bottomed out. Once it bottomed out, I tightened the nut against the header. I didn’t tighten it super tight, but I put a reasonable amount of torque on the nut to hold the header against the head, and it held. This may not work in all situations, but it’s worth a try. I know that this is sort of hard to explain, so I’ll post a picture of it when I get home. Hopefully this helps someone who stripped a bolt and don’t know that to do. If you have any other tips to easily repair stripped bolt holes, please let us know. It may help me, or someone else who reads this post later. Have a great day!
Last edited by Wankenstein; Feb 1, 2018 at 10:32 PM.
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Rep Power: 118 Re: EASY trick to fix stripped bolt holes!
Other methods I know of for easily fixing stripped bolts, in no particular order, include:
1. Installing another bolt through the hole and using a nut on the other side, IF POSSIBLE. I use this trick when exhaust flange bolts strip or break.
2. Wrapping the bolt threads in aluminum foil or thin copper wire. Temporary fix only. This trick sounds stupid, but it just might get you out of a bind.
3. Drilling and tapping the bolt hole to a larger size. This is an easy fix in some situations.
4. JB weld a stud into the stripped hole and use a nut. I have done this before, and it works surprisingly well.
5. If the stripped bolt is on an oil pan, transmission pan or something similar, coat that part of the gasket in RTV silicone on both sides. This will usually fill in the gap and stop the leak.
6. Use a heli coil. This will allow you to use a bolt of the same size and length of the factory bolt.
I am sure that there are more tricks, but these are the ones that I use the most.
1. Installing another bolt through the hole and using a nut on the other side, IF POSSIBLE. I use this trick when exhaust flange bolts strip or break.
2. Wrapping the bolt threads in aluminum foil or thin copper wire. Temporary fix only. This trick sounds stupid, but it just might get you out of a bind.
3. Drilling and tapping the bolt hole to a larger size. This is an easy fix in some situations.
4. JB weld a stud into the stripped hole and use a nut. I have done this before, and it works surprisingly well.
5. If the stripped bolt is on an oil pan, transmission pan or something similar, coat that part of the gasket in RTV silicone on both sides. This will usually fill in the gap and stop the leak.
6. Use a heli coil. This will allow you to use a bolt of the same size and length of the factory bolt.
I am sure that there are more tricks, but these are the ones that I use the most.
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Rep Power: 118 Re: Is coasting in neutral bad for the transmission?
I frogot to mention that the car doesn’t seem to happy about idling in neutral while it’s moving. When it’s coasting in neutral, it won’t idle correctly. The engine surges between 1500 and 2500 RPM pretty quickly when traveling at higher speeds in neutral, and it idles at a much higher than normal RPM at lower speeds. As I slow down, the idle RPM drops down to a normal idle. The engine doesn’t ever have any idle issues unless the car is rolling in neutral. It idles great when sitting still in neutral, but for some reason it idles strangely when the car is moving. What does this mean?
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Rep Power: 118 Backyard rocker arm weight reduction. Yeah, someone actually did this.
I was reading on another forum a few days ago that someone took apart their D17’s valvetrain and filed down each rocker arm a little bit to make them lighter. I think he removed a few grams from each one, but I can’t remember for sure. He also smoothed out the surface of the rocker arms so less oil would stick to them. Their engine (supposedly) revved quicker and made more top end power. I am trying to find that thread, but I haven’t had any luck yet. To me, weakening the rocker arms by removing even a little material seems like a REALLY bad idea, and I would never weaken any internal engine components. However, the rocker arms do have a pretty rough finish IIRC, so smoothing out the surface of the rocker arms so less oil sticks to them seems like it couldn’t hurt. I wouldn’t waste my time on smoothing out the rocker arms unless I was very board and had nothing better to do though. What do you think about lighter weight rocker arms? Did you ever do something like this?
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Rep Power: 118 Re: Is my battery voltage too low?
Something's bad. I was sitting in traffic today with just my LED headlights, rear defroster, heater and windshield wipers on. The battery voltage at 12.4 volts, and dropping. The battery light was also flashed for a split second once. After about 2 minutes idling, the battery voltage dropped to 12.1, and probably would have continued dropping. The windshield wipers were going slower than normal unless I shut off the blower motor and/or rear defroster also. I checked for voltage drop (again) and had 0.01 volts on the negative side, and 0.03 volts on the positive side, which is obviously very good. Could the ELD be bad, or is the (almost new) alternator likely failing? Thanks, I appreciate your help.
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Rep Power: 518 Re: Is my battery voltage too low?
I checked for voltage drop (again) and had 0.01 volts on the negative side, and 0.03 volts on the positive side, which is obviously
You have to do volt drop testing on a fully loaded circuit. Checking while the engine is not running produces no usable results.
is the (almost new) alternator likely failing
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Rep Power: 118 Re: Is my battery voltage too low?
I checked the voltage drop with all accessories on and the engine running at 1,500 RPM. I just have a very low voltage drop because I installed a Big 3 upgrade, so all the wires are much thicker than stock.
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Rep Power: 118 Rubber vs. poly bushings- A durability experiment
I was curious about the durability and longevity of polyurethane vs. rubber bushings, so I came up with a couple of tests. Here are the "before test" pictures of each sway bar bushing after being used for 2-3 years. After cleaning both bushings off with soapy water, the poly bushing shows no signs of wear, but the rubber bushing shows slight signs of wear. It has a few cracks, but nothing too bad. The next test, however, will simulate an oil leak or spilled oil that drips onto the bushings. What I did is I sprayed both bushings with motor oil to see if either one deteriorates. I am re spraying every day for a week to see what happens. I'll post back in a week or so with the results
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Rep Power: 518 Re: Is my battery voltage too low?
Charging system voltage drop test:
Engine running (1500 was good) with all lights on, defogger, fans and AC on full blast, etc. to make alternator output as close to its its maximum as you can get (if you had a carbon pile resistor or VAT tester you could use it to load the charging system to max instead)
Neg side voltage drop test:
One meter lead on the alternator shell or housing, other meter lead on battery neg post in the center on the actual round post; read voltage on meter
Pos side: Same conditions:
One meter lead on the threaded stud of the alternators fat wire connection, other meter lead on the positive post, the round post of the battery; take reading on meter
Starter system voltage drop test is done in a similar fashion....and it can place even more load (amps) on the grounds because this starter can draw more current than the alternator produces.
I'd almost expect to see 0.2-0.5v on both the positive and negative sides during a voltage drop test even with no reported problems, that's why I thought your results of 0.01 and 0.03v looked very strange.
Also, check the meter was set on lowest volt range for the test?
Engine running (1500 was good) with all lights on, defogger, fans and AC on full blast, etc. to make alternator output as close to its its maximum as you can get (if you had a carbon pile resistor or VAT tester you could use it to load the charging system to max instead)
Neg side voltage drop test:
One meter lead on the alternator shell or housing, other meter lead on battery neg post in the center on the actual round post; read voltage on meter
Pos side: Same conditions:
One meter lead on the threaded stud of the alternators fat wire connection, other meter lead on the positive post, the round post of the battery; take reading on meter
Starter system voltage drop test is done in a similar fashion....and it can place even more load (amps) on the grounds because this starter can draw more current than the alternator produces.
I'd almost expect to see 0.2-0.5v on both the positive and negative sides during a voltage drop test even with no reported problems, that's why I thought your results of 0.01 and 0.03v looked very strange.
Also, check the meter was set on lowest volt range for the test?
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Rep Power: 118 Re: Is my battery voltage too low?
Charging system voltage drop test:
Engine running (1500 was good) with all lights on, defogger, fans and AC on full blast, etc. to make alternator output as close to its its maximum as you can get (if you had a carbon pile resistor or VAT tester you could use it to load the charging system to max instead)
Neg side voltage drop test:
One meter lead on the alternator shell or housing, other meter lead on battery neg post in the center on the actual round post; read voltage on meter
Pos side: Same conditions:
One meter lead on the threaded stud of the alternators fat wire connection, other meter lead on the positive post, the round post of the battery; take reading on meter
Starter system voltage drop test is done in a similar fashion....and it can place even more load (amps) on the grounds because this starter can draw more current than the alternator produces.
I'd almost expect to see 0.2-0.5v on both the positive and negative sides during a voltage drop test even with no reported problems, that's why I thought your results of 0.01 and 0.03v looked very strange.
Also, check the meter was set on lowest volt range for the test?
Engine running (1500 was good) with all lights on, defogger, fans and AC on full blast, etc. to make alternator output as close to its its maximum as you can get (if you had a carbon pile resistor or VAT tester you could use it to load the charging system to max instead)
Neg side voltage drop test:
One meter lead on the alternator shell or housing, other meter lead on battery neg post in the center on the actual round post; read voltage on meter
Pos side: Same conditions:
One meter lead on the threaded stud of the alternators fat wire connection, other meter lead on the positive post, the round post of the battery; take reading on meter
Starter system voltage drop test is done in a similar fashion....and it can place even more load (amps) on the grounds because this starter can draw more current than the alternator produces.
I'd almost expect to see 0.2-0.5v on both the positive and negative sides during a voltage drop test even with no reported problems, that's why I thought your results of 0.01 and 0.03v looked very strange.
Also, check the meter was set on lowest volt range for the test?
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Rep Power: 210 Re: Backyard rocker arm weight reduction. Yeah, someone actually did this.
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Rep Power: 210 Re: EASY tricks to fix stripped bolt holes!
What I did is I got a longer bolt the same size as the stripped hole, and a nut. I put the nut over the bolt, and screwed the longer bolt into the stripped hole until it bottomed out. Once it bottomed out, I tightened the nut against the header. I didn’t tighten it super tight, but I put a reasonable amount of torque on the nut to hold the header against the head, and it held.
Helicoil or timesert is a better option.
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Rep Power: 210 Re: EASY trick to fix stripped bolt holes!
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From: canada
Rep Power: 229 Re: Backyard rocker arm weight reduction. Yeah, someone actually did this.
There are better ways to increase RPM rate, imo.
-Light weight flywheel
-ac delete
-power steering delete, or conversion to electric PS
-light weight pulleys (but it's your risk if you want to replace the harmonic balancer)
-p&p
Titanium or aluminum connecting rods if you want to go all out (be careful with aluminum rods though since they are quite a bit different in size from cold to warm, wouldn't recommend them for anyone who wasn't prepared to replace them at any given moment).
ps: I'm run an 8 pound fly, P&p and ac delete, revs like a mother**cker. =D
-Light weight flywheel
-ac delete
-power steering delete, or conversion to electric PS
-light weight pulleys (but it's your risk if you want to replace the harmonic balancer)
-p&p
Titanium or aluminum connecting rods if you want to go all out (be careful with aluminum rods though since they are quite a bit different in size from cold to warm, wouldn't recommend them for anyone who wasn't prepared to replace them at any given moment).
ps: I'm run an 8 pound fly, P&p and ac delete, revs like a mother**cker. =D
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From: canada
Rep Power: 229 Re: Bigger throttle body?
The header port sizes are tiny. About 1" in diameter.
The flow from the throttle body is probably large enough, but...
There was a myth that there was no point in swapping headers because the port size of the head matched the port size of the header. After three years running 2.25 high flow cat. and cat. back with stock header, crower stage 1 and intake; I changed to an aftermarket header and gained a tone of gas mileage and a bit of torque.
So there is a possibility that the larger TB will help.
If you do it let us know.
The flow from the throttle body is probably large enough, but...
There was a myth that there was no point in swapping headers because the port size of the head matched the port size of the header. After three years running 2.25 high flow cat. and cat. back with stock header, crower stage 1 and intake; I changed to an aftermarket header and gained a tone of gas mileage and a bit of torque.
So there is a possibility that the larger TB will help.
If you do it let us know.
Dr Krieger of Modification
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From: canada
Rep Power: 229 Re: What’s with the JDM obsession?
It depends on what you're asking
If you mean why people think american cars are crap... that's because they are.
If you work long term in an automotive company you'll learn this for a fact. Especially for vehicles from 1990 to 2008ish.
-Dodge
-gm
-pontiac
-chevy
-saturn
-mazda's made by Ford
-I like most fords I work on though
Are absolute junk, things fail all the time, the materials used especially under the hood are crap (they're also unfinished and sharp, I cut my gloves and hands all the time on chevy/gm engine parts).
I often have customers come in, talking about their american cars, stating, ya she's falling apart but it is a 200,000km car... then I just think about the hondas and toyotas I work on sitting over 500,000km.
This is not so true for the trucks though Gm, Chev and Ford build great trucks, but they slack hard on cars.
...................
If you're asking why people like making their "japanese" cars look more jDM, that's just the culture, probably from Fast and the furious.
If you mean why people think american cars are crap... that's because they are.
If you work long term in an automotive company you'll learn this for a fact. Especially for vehicles from 1990 to 2008ish.
-Dodge
-gm
-pontiac
-chevy
-saturn
-mazda's made by Ford
-I like most fords I work on though
Are absolute junk, things fail all the time, the materials used especially under the hood are crap (they're also unfinished and sharp, I cut my gloves and hands all the time on chevy/gm engine parts).
I often have customers come in, talking about their american cars, stating, ya she's falling apart but it is a 200,000km car... then I just think about the hondas and toyotas I work on sitting over 500,000km.
This is not so true for the trucks though Gm, Chev and Ford build great trucks, but they slack hard on cars.
...................
If you're asking why people like making their "japanese" cars look more jDM, that's just the culture, probably from Fast and the furious.
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