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Yes..the K24 will accelerate faster. 20 more ft/lbs at almost half the rpms.
IMO the K24 will be more fun to drive..quicker acceleration without the need for high revs. Better for cornering, slaloming, off the line in short distances.
Last edited by Wankenstein; Jan 22, 2018 at 07:49 PM.
Yes..the K24 will accelerate faster. 20 more ft/lbs at almost half the rpms.
IMO the K24 will be more fun to drive..quicker acceleration without the need for high revs. Better for cornering, slaloming, off the line in short distances.
Ok thanks, that’s what I thought. The K24 CRV or Accord motor also is much easier to find in a junkyard than an RSX or SI K20 motor, and parts are probably cheaper. However, the engine is also probably larger, so it would be harder to work on. Fuel consumption would probably also be higher on the K24, so I am not sure which one would be better.
Last edited by D17VTECPOWER; Jan 23, 2018 at 08:40 AM.
Moog are effectively OEM replacements. EDIT: I stand corrected. I guess the moog ones are a hair beefier than stock, but not as beefy as the ones pictured above.
I agree that they are not as beefy as the ones you had, but they look very solid to me. Here is a side by side comparison of the OEM sway bar link compared to the $25 Moog. If you know of better ones, especially for less than $25 each, please let me know.
So I am just wondering if you usually solder wires together or use crimp connectors. I always solder wires on other people’s cars, but sometimes I use crimp connectors on my cars. In my opinion, soldering wires together is far superior to crimp connections, both in reliability and performance. I believe that a soldered connection will have less voltage drop and will be more reliable. However, I sometimes use crimp connectors on my cars as a temporary fix, but I solder the wires when I have time. What do you do?
I am going to be changing my 2005 Civic transmission with a JDM SLXA transmission, so I won’t need the BMXA. It is perfectly functional, and it has always had its fluid changed on time. It has never been rebuilt and all the parts are original. The transmission will include the torque converter, starter and all sensors and solenoids. The transmission has 231K miles on it, but I am only changing it as a preventative measure because the mileage is so high, but it works perfectly fine and has never gave me any trouble. I am listing it for $225, but I may lower the price if it doesn’t sell or if shipping costs are high. I am located around Memphis, so if you are this area, you can come over and see it working while it is still in the car if you would like. Let me know if you are interested!
Last edited by D17VTECPOWER; Jan 25, 2018 at 10:59 AM.
"Marge, anyone could miss Canada! All tucked away down there."
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Re: 2001-2005 Civic BMXA automatic transmission
I'll let this stay for now but:
Originally Posted by MindBomber
Welcome to the CivicForums.com Market Place Buy, Sell & Trade Forums!! To ensure this forum continues to be a useful and enjoyable area for all members there are a few rules strictly enforced by the mod staff. If for any reason you have a question or need clarification on these rules please message the moderators: MindBomber or tbohar. Exceptions may be made to some rules if prior permission is obtained.
All threads must include a price! Whether you’re looking to buy, sell or trade an item, a price must be listed. If you need a part, post a price range your willing to spend; If you’re selling a part, you must post a price. OBO (or best offer) is acceptable. For trades, include what you’re willing to trade for.
Pictures are Required! Very few people are willing to buy an item from a stranger off the internet without seeing a picture of it first, so to save people having to ask for pictures, one must be included in the first post of the thread. For your sales benefit: include in the picture a piece of paper with your username, the date and civicforums written on it.
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I understand it's still in the car but you could get a couple pictures from above and below and maybe a dipstick shot?
And throw in a zip code for shipping calculations
I understand it's still in the car but you could get a couple pictures from above and below and maybe a dipstick shot?
And throw in a zip code for shipping calculations
Good luck!
Sorry, I didn’t know the rules. This is my first time selling something here. Thanks for telling me. I’ll upload a few pictures when I get home.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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Re: Do you solder or use crimp connectors?
Depends®
I use either depending on the situation, and agree on 'western union splice' when possible. (sometimes I just don't have much wire length to work with LOL)
Recommend glue lined heat shrink tubing to seal it all up if it's outside the cabin
About 1 year ago, I replaced the engine in my Civic with a junkyard D17A2 that I rebuilt. I did not have a lot of money, so I bought this Evergreen rebuild kit:
I also bought an Evergreen oil pump. I had no problems with the rebuild kit yet. All the parts seemed high quality, and the gaskets don't leak. The oil pump, however, did have a minor flaw. The minor flaw with the oil pump is that it did not have a timing mark. This wasn't a problem for me, because I just set cylinder 1 to TDC and used a chisel to mark the oil pump where the timing mark on the crank sprocket pointed to. I have had no problems with this engine for 7,000 miles since I rebuilt it a year ago, and I used it to pull a 2500 pound trailer for over 500 miles when I moved. I have also floored it many times, taking the RPM almost to the rev limiter. Nothing blew up yet, and it doesn't burn oil. So I would recommend this rebuild kit to anyone who needs to rebuild their engine and doesn't have a lot of money to spend, or anyone who wants a quality rebuild kit for a great price. I can't speak for how well these parts would hold up under boost, but at least NA, this rebuild kit works great. If you have any questions, feel free to ask.
I am looking for a rear disc brake setup off of a 2002 or 2003 EP3 Civic SI. I am looking for a rear disc brake setup with the wheel hubs, brake calipers and rotors. I am in the Memphis area, and how much I can pay for the setup depends on how much shipping is and what condition the parts are in. Thanks!
I always solder (western union) and heat shrink. I like to follow the below guidelines when possible. I will splice though when soldering is not plausible.
I need to remove my cast aluminium oil pan to JB weld the crack because I ran over a coffee can on the highway and slightly cracked the side of it. So my question is if I should use Hondabond to make the gasket, or if I should use a gasket. IIRC, the aluminium oil pan uses Hondabond instead of a gasket from the factory, but please correct me if I am wrong. Thanks!
PS- Yes, I know Hondabond is overpriced, but I took advantage of an eBay pricing error and got 12 tubes of it for $0.97 each, so it's what I have.
I am just curious if you guys prefer steel or aluminum oil pans, and why. I personally prefer aluminum for oil pans because it is lighter and it dissipates heat better, but what do you prefer, and why?
I made my 2005 Civic a custom cold air intake when I put the Y8 intake manifold on it. I currently have the IAT about 1 inch from where the silicone connector attaches to the throttle body. I just cut a hole in the silicone adapter and sealed around the sensor with silicone. A friend pointed out that the sensor is being heated up by the throttle body, and that the IAT being hot causes the ECU to retard ignition timing and lean out the A/F ratio. He said that I should move the IAT sensor to the end of the intake pipe where the air filter connects so it reads the temp of the air instead of the throttle body. Does that make any sense? It makes sense to me, but I am not sure. What do you think?
Sometimes I coast in neutral when going down hills or when slowing down to save fuel. I have heard people say that coasting in neutral is harmful to the transmission, but some people say that coasting in neutral is okay as long as the engine is running. Who is correct? I know that coasting in neutral can be dangerous, but I only coast in neutral when doing so is safe. Thanks.
So I would recommend this rebuild kit to anyone who needs to rebuild their engine and doesn't have a lot of money to spend, or anyone who wants a quality rebuild kit for a great price. I can't speak for how well these parts would hold up under boost, but at least NA, this rebuild kit works great. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. 
