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I had to cut out the outer portion of the square D17 TB sensor clip to make it fit inside the round D16 TB sensor...nothing like making a square peg fit inside a round hole...
And just like that, one of my shifter cables broke.
I think my short shifter is the culprit behind the rubber/plastic housing breaking near the tranny.
So just like everything else on this car, i'm going to build my own.
I have a push/pull cable coming from Mcmaster-Carr along with some smaller hiem ends. I'll post up the fix this weekend.
The Cable is just a bit too long on the end.
I'll be making a metal mount this evening that will attached to the shifter selector arm and extend out to the new cable end. This mount will have either two bolt holes for the selector arm or be welded on to it.
I guess at the end of the day, i could have just cut off the end of the new cable threads and added some threads to allow everything to line up. It's hard not to break out the welder and have some fun... shifter tab welded on and extended.
The other day i shifted from 3rd trying to go to 4th...instead I went into 2nd.
This happened at about 19lbs of boost and 6800 rpms.
I sheared the key that held the harmonic balancer on, the crank bolt came off, and all 6 flywheel bolts came loose.
I have 180lbs of compression in all cylinders.
Pulled the engine, drained the oil, and dropped the pan.
No metal in oil!
Rods are all in place with some side play. I'll take a feeler gauge to it tonight. but all rod bearings seam to be in great shape!!!!
jesus.. I money shifted (same as yours, 3rd -> 2nd) my 2002 once, thankfully just bolt-ons with a stage 1 cam. RPMs peaked at about 9.5k. No damage luckily. Good thing your damage is (seemingly) minimal.
I need to take apart the transmission and make sure all the gears are still there....
While i'm there, i'm going to weld up the differential.
Before all the haters start hating, this cars main function is to go down a straight track. Yes, I know parking may have it's issues....but i'm not worried about that.
Building the catch pan thingy....
anyways, i'm not sure this will work without putting the engine back in the car.
I have a feeling that the oil pan sticks a bit further down than the mid frame.
The good news is that the outline is made so all i would have to build is the sides and raise/lower the pan area...
I plan on making this out of fiberglass.
Last edited by piano55man; Apr 19, 2019 at 12:51 PM.
Reason: need to finish sentence
After getting the engine installed last night....the damn axles wont fit.
I guess the welding expanded and then shrunk the differential metal.
Game plan is to check the different diameters. The axles seem to have a few different diameters...the grooved area, and two solid areas.
More than likely I will have to grind a bit out of the differential. If the grooved areas are off then this differential is crap.
Oh, ya I didn't think about that when you posted the pic of the diff.
If you have to do it again, perhaps grease the axles and leave them in the final drive gear, and use water to cool the material in between short welds.
(Had to do that for my intake manifold, because I warped the sh$$ out of the first one I tried)
Took the car around the block...with no power steering and a welded differential makes this car a bit hard to steer.....
Time to make this a track car only!
Good going, as usual!
