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Why not a good thing?
My waste gate is set at 10lbs and the engine said "that's all she gots captain".
Should i be going faster?
Remember, the engine has 266,000 miles on it....lol

 
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I was more referring to the temp creeping up part

 
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lol, Couple possible causes...

1) The screamer pipe. It's located in the front and goes straight down possibly causing under the hood temps to increase.
2) I was floored running over 5k+ rpms over a long period of time...say 3 minutes.

Either way it was fun!!!

 
Rep Power: 154

Whats your radiator and fan setup?

 
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New, stock radiator, two slim fans.

 
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adding more fun.....
This is my A2 head.
I have the Crower stage 1 cam patiently waiting on my porting and polishing...

 
Rep Power: 154

Should be fine with that. Im running just a half size radiator with no AC. My temps never creep up. I am not boosted yet though.

As far as hood temps, try wrapping your manifold/downpipe in titanium exhaust wrap

 
Rep Power: 122

Ok...i want to explain something which i'm not sure has been thought out before or explained on this forum. If it has...sorry to play a broken record!

We all know the only real after market cams is for the A2.
But, did we all know that you can buy titanium vtec eliminator pins?
This allows all the intake valves to work at the same time as in an A1 without activating the vtec solenoid.
I assume (yes, i know *** out of u and me), I assume the A2 rocker arm mount assembly is the same bolt pattern as the A1.
With this assumption, we could theoretically run an aftermarket A2 cam using the A2 rocker arm assembly,and the vtec eliminator pins in the rocker arms all inside the A1 head.

Now before the haters hate and the flamers flame away...why would we do this?

If the engine setup is being used as a race setup and is spending 75% or more of the time above 4,000 rpms, then there is really no need to worry about the "lack of power" below 4,000 rpms.
That being said, i would also like to throw out there if your using a stand alone ECU this "lack of power" below 4,000 rpms could be dialed back in from a tune via timing, cam angle, and fuel management adjustments.

 
Rep Power: 140

Lol yes, this is valid. You never see valve control mechanisms employed in applications that don't require transient throttle response. Eventually it may be brought in to play as a method of fine tuning cam timing in case the cam isn't perfectly designed but usually, they're just designed well (in the high hp big money applications).

 
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finished with the polishing...

 
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ooh shiny

 
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Dyno Sheet

 
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break down process...

 
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up to this point everything was looking good...

 
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Then i came across the shavings in the oil pan...

Side to side comparison... most of the rod bearing melted to the rod end (pic on left)

 
Rep Power: 222

boo... at least a rod didnt saw through the block

 
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forged rods, oversized pistons, and a block guard all ordered!!!

 
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Rods and block guard delivered.
Wiseco 75.5 pistons ordered
I have what appear to be some surface cracks in the block, hopefully just casting marks. I have two more blocks if the machine shop says this one is bad.

 
Rep Power: 122

new gaskets, oil pump, water pump, and gates racing belt on their way to me as well.

 
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most everything has been delivered...pistons should be here this afternoon!

 
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Guess what just showed up??????

 
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quick question to anyone who may know...

I just dropped off everything to my machine shop and the owner said that this was the first time seeing a block guard. He obviously knew where it went, but the question he had was how far down is it supposed to go/pressed in? Are they supposed to be flush/just a bit below the top of the deck or quite a bit further down?

 
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So Matt over at HA Motorsports says to install block guard down 1/4"-1/2" below top of deck and THEN bore the cylinders out...

 
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While the engine is at the machine shop, i decided to pull the AC this weekend.
I'm thinking about pulling the power steering and making a closed system with the existing hoses...anyone have experience doing this?

 
Rep Power: 140

On most power racks, it makes steering much more difficult to close the circuit off with fluid inside. Racers will typically drain the rack and leave it empty/hoseless for manual steering if manual racks are not available from different cars or aftermarket.

 
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10-4
I'll try the fluid first...since its already in, then i'll try the no fluid version and report back.
Of course I need my engine back from the shop to do this....

 
Rep Power: 140

Lol Is the rack not installed? wouldn't it be easier to test steering feel without the engine in?

 
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one would think that this would be the route to go....i like doing crap the hard way!

 
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Machine shop called...the old crank can now be used as a paper weight...
Thank god for spare engines....pulled the crank from a spare engine and will deliver it to the shop today!

 
Rep Power: 140

Any good word from the shop?