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Don’t you mean a K20 head on a K24 block? I have heard of a K20 head on a K24 block, but never a K24 head on a K20 block.

 
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Yeah. I had that backwards

Measurements were good. Mixed up respective blocks and heads

 
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I see, thanks for clarifying. What effect would putting a K20 head on a K24 have on reliability though?

 
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why would that cause reliability concerns?

 
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Crappy shade tree mekaniking

 
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I don't know. I know that upgrading the cams can though.

 
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?!? Why would upgrading the cams would reduce reliability?!?

 
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I have heard from several reputable tuners that upgrading the cams puts more stress on the already problematic timing chain and tensioner.

 
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my answer is , what you intend to use it for?

for a race car gaining stability os engine not moving and getting extra vibratiomaybe.. on top race team.... for everyday runner, unless u build a monster why do it?

what u going to gain besides vibrtion and stiffness a touch...
money spent elsewhere can get u more performance...

for me is always benefit vs $$$ , and what am trying to do..

 
Rep Power: 119

I bought a 21MM rear sway bar from a 2006 RSX-S, which obviously won't work with my 12MM bushings. My question is who makes good polyurethane rear sway bar bushings for an RSX-S? I searched for about 30 minutes, but I can't find any. I can only find 19MM bushings, but I need 21MM. Thanks!

 
Rep Power: 368

Did not know they were so difficult to have poly bushings..

try searching on RSX forums, maybe they have an answer.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-...-civic-ep3-32/

http://forums.clubrsx.com/

 
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Search this Holmes: http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com...r-bushings.asp

 
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I tried it, I don't see any poly bushings.

 
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Could I use universal bushings like these?

 
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general consensus is you need to get the universal 21mm ones, but there have been issues with them fitting in the OEM bracket. Most people have resorted to saying screw it and going with OEM rubber bushings

 
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These come with a bracket, so that shouldn't be an issue. I don't see why no one makes RSX-S poly sway bar bushings. Maybe I'll just try to widen the holes in my 12MM poly bushings from the old sway bar and use those. I refuse to use OEM rubber bushings!

 
Rep Power: 119

Yea, me neither. I don't get it. I am sure that people would buy them if they were available. I WILL NOT buy crappy rubber bushings though.

 
Rep Power: 512

OEM rubber bushings do their job well. If you're that gung-ho about going poly, make sure you stock up on some silicone grease

 
Rep Power: 119

I prefer poly because I never have to think about them again. They won't crack, sag, dry out or turn to mush if oil leaks onto them. Rubber bushings also flex, limiting the performance of the sway bar that I just spent $77 on. I have heard people complain about squeaking, but I have always used Energy Suspension bushings and lubed them up good with the included grease, and I never heard a single squeak. Even if they did squeak, I much prefer squeaks to decreased handling performance. Just a personal preference.

 
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Those amazon ones or these should work

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/9.5125

I doubt you would notice the difference between rubber and poly for a sway bar. Other bushings yes. Those other reasons are great for going the poly route though

 
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I guess what I was asking is if the K24 could accelerate the car any faster since it has more torque.

 
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Thank you very much. I also don't think that I would notice a difference between new poly and new rubber bushings, but I know that I felt a difference when I replaced my worn out OEM bushings with poly. So I use poly bushings for longevity and reliability over anything else.

 
Rep Power: 512

I had ES poly bushings on my 2002's front LCAs. Even greased up, those things squeaked like a **** after some time. Luckily I installed zerk fittings to lube them up, but silicone grease was thicker than ****. Sticky AF, too

 
Rep Power: 119

Did you use the black or red ones? I have the black ones. I believe that the black ones have graphite in them and the red ones don't, so maybe that's why mine don't squeak. Anyways, if mine squeak, I'll just install grease fittings too. That's a great idea, thanks. Also, did you notice any improvement in handling with the poly bushings? I noticed that the steering felt more precise and responsive than with the rubber bushings, and the ride quality didn't suffer. However, the rubber ones that the poly bushings replaced were cracked and worn out, so who knows if the improvement was from having poly bushings or new bushings.

 
Rep Power: 512

Black. I replaced bushings that were gone (bolt hole bit fell right out). I chalked the steering response improvement to having actual bushings instead of broke as hell ones

 
Rep Power: 119

I had a difficult time replacing my back struts and installing lowering springs this weekend. The first one, the bolt was seized to the metal sleeve inside the lower bushing, and it broke when I tried to break it loose. I took off the whole rear trailing arm and cut the bolt, and unscrewed it with vise grips. It only took me the whole day, but I got it done. However, the second strut didn’t go as well as the first one. The lower mounting bolt was so rusted to the lower trailing arm that the head broke off when I barely turned it. FML. So now the strut isn’t held in very well and it makes clunking noises when I hit bumps. So how do I get the bolt out now? I am thinking I will have to take the lower trailing arm to a machine shop, but any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks!

 
Rep Power: 223

Penetrating fluid and heat are your friends when working on Hondas.
You can try welding a nut to the broken bit. Apply lots of penetrating fluid and let it soak in. The heat from the welding may be enough, but you can apply some heat to where to bolt threads in, just don't heat up the strut body or it might explode or melt seals.
Could grab a used trailing arm from a junkyard. Call the machine shops and try and get a price first, machining cost may be more than another trailing arm.

 
Rep Power: 119

I soaked both strut bolts in penetrating oil, and I heated up the bolt on the passenger side, but it still broke. I didn’t try getting the nut on the drivers side because it was by the gas tank, but I soaked both bolts in penetrating oil a couple times a day for 3 days before trying to break them loose. It obviously didn’t do any good though. I will get prices on a junkyard trailing arm at my local junkyards, that would probably be my best bet.

 
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did you ask them or just read it somewhere?

 
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I heard several tuners say it, so I asked them to clarify, and they said it can. Here is one video talking about it: (Skip to around 13:15.)