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D17VTECPOWER threads consolidated - how a member should not behave
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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Re: Lightweight valve adjuster screws
So YOU'RE the tweaker that filed down all of his rocker arms.
Can't you just leave it alone? It was working great until you jacked with it.
Can't you just leave it alone? It was working great until you jacked with it.
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From: Las Vegas, NV
Rep Power: 511 Re: Lightweight valve adjuster screws
Quick google search, found a weights for a steel M6 fastener. At 2.5g each, its titanium counterpart (assuming Ti is 45% lighter) would weigh 1.375g each. A D17 has 16 valves, and thus, 16 nuts. Stock, assuming the weight is the same as the one I found online, would weigh a total of 40g. Ti nuts of the same size would theoretically weigh 22g, resulting in a differential of 18g saved.
To put that in freedom units, you'd save .04lb, or 0.6oz.
Another quick google search for a replacement fastener, and I assumed it's an M6x1.0 thread pitch -- and I didn't use eBay because if you're going to use this on engine internals, I wouldn't trust eBay -- took me to probolt-usa.com, where they sell titanium fasteners. Non anodized Ti M6x1.0 would run you $3.32 a piece.
*Josh adds 16 nuts to cart*
Cart subtotal: $53.12
Estimated shipping to Vegas: $6.99
Grand total: $60.11
So.. 60 bucks to save 18 grams and get maybe, if you're lucky, a hundredth or two of one horsepower. But you do get some style points for Ti under the valve cover. Extra kudos if you go anodized, where those suckers at $4.99/ea (and would bring the cart grand total to $86.83). Make sure you do a proper valve lash adjustment.
tl;dr: Stick to OEM. It's not worth it. Except the cool factor. Even then, unless you bleed money, then maybe.
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Rep Power: 118 Re: Lightweight valve adjuster screws
So YOU'RE the tweaker that filed down all of his rocker arms.
Can't you just leave it alone? It was working great until you jacked with it.
Can't you just leave it alone? It was working great until you jacked with it.
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Rep Power: 118 Re: Lightweight valve adjuster screws
More than a few grams, actually.
Quick google search, found a weights for a steel M6 fastener. At 2.5g each, its titanium counterpart (assuming Ti is 45% lighter) would weigh 1.375g each. A D17 has 16 valves, and thus, 16 nuts. Stock, assuming the weight is the same as the one I found online, would weigh a total of 40g. Ti nuts of the same size would theoretically weigh 22g, resulting in a differential of 18g saved.
To put that in freedom units, you'd save .04lb, or 0.6oz.
Another quick google search for a replacement fastener, and I assumed it's an M6x1.0 thread pitch -- and I didn't use eBay because if you're going to use this on engine internals, I wouldn't trust eBay -- took me to probolt-usa.com, where they sell titanium fasteners. Non anodized Ti M6x1.0 would run you $3.32 a piece.
*Josh adds 16 nuts to cart*
Cart subtotal: $53.12
Estimated shipping to Vegas: $6.99
Grand total: $60.11
So.. 60 bucks to save 18 grams and get maybe, if you're lucky, a hundredth or two of one horsepower. But you do get some style points for Ti under the valve cover. Extra kudos if you go anodized, where those suckers at $4.99/ea (and would bring the cart grand total to $86.83). Make sure you do a proper valve lash adjustment.
tl;dr: Stick to OEM. It's not worth it. Except the cool factor. Even then, unless you bleed money, then maybe.
Quick google search, found a weights for a steel M6 fastener. At 2.5g each, its titanium counterpart (assuming Ti is 45% lighter) would weigh 1.375g each. A D17 has 16 valves, and thus, 16 nuts. Stock, assuming the weight is the same as the one I found online, would weigh a total of 40g. Ti nuts of the same size would theoretically weigh 22g, resulting in a differential of 18g saved.
To put that in freedom units, you'd save .04lb, or 0.6oz.
Another quick google search for a replacement fastener, and I assumed it's an M6x1.0 thread pitch -- and I didn't use eBay because if you're going to use this on engine internals, I wouldn't trust eBay -- took me to probolt-usa.com, where they sell titanium fasteners. Non anodized Ti M6x1.0 would run you $3.32 a piece.
*Josh adds 16 nuts to cart*
Cart subtotal: $53.12
Estimated shipping to Vegas: $6.99
Grand total: $60.11
So.. 60 bucks to save 18 grams and get maybe, if you're lucky, a hundredth or two of one horsepower. But you do get some style points for Ti under the valve cover. Extra kudos if you go anodized, where those suckers at $4.99/ea (and would bring the cart grand total to $86.83). Make sure you do a proper valve lash adjustment.
tl;dr: Stick to OEM. It's not worth it. Except the cool factor. Even then, unless you bleed money, then maybe.
Last edited by D17VTECPOWER; Feb 6, 2018 at 07:13 AM.
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Rep Power: 118 Re: Lightweight valve adjuster screws
My engine struggles to hit the rev limiter at 7250 RPM, so if the engine would actually rev to the rev limiter, I could gain power. I won’t, but just out of curiosity, how would I disable the rev limiter without an aftermarket EMS? Thanks.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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Rep Power: 518 Re: Lightweight valve adjuster screws
Anything that would ALLOW higher RPM is of absolutely no benefit right now because the engine already can't breathe well enough to take advantage of it. Your torque (and HP) curve dropped off long before rev limit.
If it was still making/increasing power all the way to rev limit then you'd have a legit reason to find a way go higher.
Wannabe tweaker 
If it was still making/increasing power all the way to rev limit then you'd have a legit reason to find a way go higher.
Actually, I am not.
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Rep Power: 118 Running rich- Please help!
I recently put an oxygen sensor on my 2005 Civic LX with a D17A2 since the one that was on it failed. My problem is that now that’s the oxygen sensor is in, the STFT is between -15 and -25 depending on load. The rich condition gets worse under load. When I accelerate gently, the fuel trim is around -15, but if I accelerate harder, the fuel trim goes to around -25 or higher. Here is the list of engine mods that the car has: Custom 3 inch cold air intake, DC Sports 4-1 header, 2.25 inch straight pipe exhaust, D16Y8 intake manifold and D16Y8 fuel rail and injectors and Crower stage 1 cam. So far I tried checking for vacuum leaks, swapping the MAP sensor for a known good extra, checking TPS, IAT and MAP readings on my Scangauge and resetting the ECU several times. I think that I am going to check fuel pressure next. I can’t find anything wrong, but I am still having this problem. The engine seems to run great and have good power, but the gas mileage is unsurprisingly not very good. Do you have any suggestions on how to diagnose this problem? Thanks.
Last edited by D17VTECPOWER; Mar 30, 2018 at 01:34 PM.
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Rep Power: 118 Re: Lightweight valve adjuster screws
Why isn’t the engine breathing well? It has a 3 inch air intake, K&N air filter, Crower stage 1 cam, Y8 intake manifold, DC Sports 4-1 header, and a 2.25 inch straight pipe exhaust. What’s keeping it from breathing well?
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It has a 3 inch air intake, K&N air filter, Crower stage 1 cam, Y8 intake manifold, DC Sports 4-1 header, and a 2.25 inch straight pipe exhaust.
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Rep Power: 222 Re: Running rich- Please help!
Did you put in the correct sensor? What's the part number of the sensor you put in? Could be bad out of the box
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Then he might actually perform the K24 swap he's been contemplating.
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Rep Power: 118 Re: Running rich- Please help!
The sensor I installed is a Denso 234-9005. Also, I don’t believe that it’s defective, because the old sensor was showing the same readings before it died. Fuel pressure being too high keeps coming to mind, so I may rent a gauge and test it.
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Rep Power: 118 Re: Running rich- Please help!
No. The D17 injectors are 270cc, so 30 more cc. The D16 injectors also run at a bit lower pressure, so the flow rate should be similar. The injectors being too small would cause a lean condition anyway, so positive fuel trim. Great thought though!
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Rep Power: 118 Re: Running rich- Please help!
Using the stock ECU is my only option since I don’t have $1-1.5K for an aftermarket ECU. The stock ECU isn’t the problem anyway though.
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"Marge, anyone could miss Canada! All tucked away down there."
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Rep Power: 511 Re: Lightweight valve adjuster screws
Look at this link- http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2015...rain-on-track/ There actually IS a benefit to a lighter valvetrain. According to this link, you can rev 35-40 RPM higher for every gram you reduce. So 35 more RPM per gram reduced X 18 grams would mean that the engine could rev 630 RPM higher. HP = Torque X RPM / 5252, so more RPM means more power with all else being equal. I’m not going to try to estimate how much power you could gain by doing this because I don’t have any information to go off of, but you would theoretically gain power. Now would you be able to feel the gain? Not likely. Would it be worth the time and money? Again, not likely. But there ARE gains to be had. How much is the question.
"I can run faster if I get lighter running shoes, so I'm gonna spend $100 on a pair of toenail clippers"
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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Rep Power: 518 Re: Lightweight valve adjuster screws
"I can run faster if I get lighter running shoes, so I'm gonna spend $100 on a pair of toenail clippers"
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Here's used stock: https://www.ebay.com/b/Engine-Comput...596/bn_1397282
A chipped aftermarket basemap would only be around $300
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Where did you get $1k ?
Here's used stock: https://www.ebay.com/b/Engine-Comput...596/bn_1397282
A chipped aftermarket basemap would only be around $300
Here's used stock: https://www.ebay.com/b/Engine-Comput...596/bn_1397282
A chipped aftermarket basemap would only be around $300
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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