Full Review on Hayame Coilovers
Why is my vagina bleeding?
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UrbanImport, do you have the kit available for the front and rear in inventory. Is their a waiting list?
Many guys on the forum complaining about the time its taking to receive the kit.
If I order today when when could I get my kit?
Many guys on the forum complaining about the time its taking to receive the kit.
If I order today when when could I get my kit?
Originally posted by UrbanImport
The springs are in the next container (middle of this month) and the coilovers are either in that container or the next (by the end of the month I have been told). As soon as I hear anything new/get something firm I'll post it up.
The springs are in the next container (middle of this month) and the coilovers are either in that container or the next (by the end of the month I have been told). As soon as I hear anything new/get something firm I'll post it up.
Why is my vagina bleeding?
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From: Montreal
Rep Power: 304 Cool, I'm the same guy that sent you an email asking about the rush order and all from Montreal(Amninder).
So let me know when you get a supply and I'll give you my payment information.
Thanks
So let me know when you get a supply and I'll give you my payment information.
Thanks
Originally posted by SlammedBlueEM2
Did Hayame say these new springs would fix the issue? Because if it doesn't then I'm just going to go back to stock.
Did Hayame say these new springs would fix the issue? Because if it doesn't then I'm just going to go back to stock.
Originally posted by nindoo
SlammedBlueEM2 what happened to your kit? Is it defective?
SlammedBlueEM2 what happened to your kit? Is it defective?
Why is my vagina bleeding?
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From: Montreal
Rep Power: 304 Originally posted by VNlilMAN
i doubt anything will change in 2 days... just look for his posts.. i'm sure he'll post as soon as they arrive.
i doubt anything will change in 2 days... just look for his posts.. i'm sure he'll post as soon as they arrive.
Will it be easier to bend/dent a rim with full coilovers? I would think so since the car would generally be lower to the ground and also due to the higher spring rates. Is this true??
Thread Starter
The Standard One
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Rep Power: 417 Not really... I suppose the stiffer spring rates can have some sort of effect but chances are if your going to bend a rim with a lowered car, you would have bent it either way even if it was stock.
My friend bent his when his car was all stock(with the exception of his rims of course)
As for it bending because its lower to the ground, that doesnt really make sense. But ya bending a rim BECAUSE of using coilovers is the last thing you should worry about.
My friend bent his when his car was all stock(with the exception of his rims of course)
As for it bending because its lower to the ground, that doesnt really make sense. But ya bending a rim BECAUSE of using coilovers is the last thing you should worry about.
Ok thanks. The reason why i ask is because i'm currently on stock suspension besides rims and the other day i randomly saw one of my rims was slightly bent. But i guess i will not worry about it. Thanks again.
Registered!!
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From: North York, Ontario, Canada
Rep Power: 0 Whoa - I can't believe this thread is on it's 710th post.
I finally completed my install of the Hayames over the weekend in Montreal. I'm not sure why, but both my rear strut bolts (the ones that hold the bottom of the strut to the lower control arm) were completely and utterly seized. I tried an impact gun. I tried a prybar with >150lbf of torque. So, I cut them off in 2 places using a reciprocating saw and got replacements from my Honda dealer.
I'm sure it's been said before - but the ride quality and handling improvement is absolutely freaking insane. I also added 17"s (thanks Telly) - the combo has resulted in go-kart like handling. Well, not quite but close enough. There's an off-ramp I take getting home from work everyday - really nice, even 270° turn. I used to squeel my tires/start to lose grip going 80km/h. I took it at 110km/h today, probably could have gone faster but I'm still not used to the setup.
Right now I'm at a modest 1" drop all-round. I'm going to adjust it down another inch, and increase the pre-load a bit more on rear this weekend. Overall, this is by far the best $625 I've ever spent on my car!!! I wish engine mods were this cheap and this drastic in performance improvement!
I finally completed my install of the Hayames over the weekend in Montreal. I'm not sure why, but both my rear strut bolts (the ones that hold the bottom of the strut to the lower control arm) were completely and utterly seized. I tried an impact gun. I tried a prybar with >150lbf of torque. So, I cut them off in 2 places using a reciprocating saw and got replacements from my Honda dealer.
I'm sure it's been said before - but the ride quality and handling improvement is absolutely freaking insane. I also added 17"s (thanks Telly) - the combo has resulted in go-kart like handling. Well, not quite but close enough. There's an off-ramp I take getting home from work everyday - really nice, even 270° turn. I used to squeel my tires/start to lose grip going 80km/h. I took it at 110km/h today, probably could have gone faster but I'm still not used to the setup.
Right now I'm at a modest 1" drop all-round. I'm going to adjust it down another inch, and increase the pre-load a bit more on rear this weekend. Overall, this is by far the best $625 I've ever spent on my car!!! I wish engine mods were this cheap and this drastic in performance improvement!
Why is my vagina bleeding?
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From: Montreal
Rep Power: 304 Originally posted by ELaudio
Whoa - I can't believe this thread is on it's 710th post.
I finally completed my install of the Hayames over the weekend in Montreal. I'm not sure why, but both my rear strut bolts (the ones that hold the bottom of the strut to the lower control arm) were completely and utterly seized. I tried an impact gun. I tried a prybar with >150lbf of torque. So, I cut them off in 2 places using a reciprocating saw and got replacements from my Honda dealer.
I'm sure it's been said before - but the ride quality and handling improvement is absolutely freaking insane. I also added 17"s (thanks Telly) - the combo has resulted in go-kart like handling. Well, not quite but close enough. There's an off-ramp I take getting home from work everyday - really nice, even 270° turn. I used to squeel my tires/start to lose grip going 80km/h. I took it at 110km/h today, probably could have gone faster but I'm still not used to the setup.
Right now I'm at a modest 1" drop all-round. I'm going to adjust it down another inch, and increase the pre-load a bit more on rear this weekend. Overall, this is by far the best $625 I've ever spent on my car!!! I wish engine mods were this cheap and this drastic in performance improvement!
Whoa - I can't believe this thread is on it's 710th post.
I finally completed my install of the Hayames over the weekend in Montreal. I'm not sure why, but both my rear strut bolts (the ones that hold the bottom of the strut to the lower control arm) were completely and utterly seized. I tried an impact gun. I tried a prybar with >150lbf of torque. So, I cut them off in 2 places using a reciprocating saw and got replacements from my Honda dealer.
I'm sure it's been said before - but the ride quality and handling improvement is absolutely freaking insane. I also added 17"s (thanks Telly) - the combo has resulted in go-kart like handling. Well, not quite but close enough. There's an off-ramp I take getting home from work everyday - really nice, even 270° turn. I used to squeel my tires/start to lose grip going 80km/h. I took it at 110km/h today, probably could have gone faster but I'm still not used to the setup.
Right now I'm at a modest 1" drop all-round. I'm going to adjust it down another inch, and increase the pre-load a bit more on rear this weekend. Overall, this is by far the best $625 I've ever spent on my car!!! I wish engine mods were this cheap and this drastic in performance improvement!
Where did you buy yours from?
Alright, I have a question.
Apparently some of us have mismatched rear springs... which might explain why my car oversteers a bit, but anyways...
What car do they belong to? I never got that answer clear to me because we've just assumed they're RSX springs. I just might be interested in the front springs that match it.
Apparently some of us have mismatched rear springs... which might explain why my car oversteers a bit, but anyways...
What car do they belong to? I never got that answer clear to me because we've just assumed they're RSX springs. I just might be interested in the front springs that match it.
Don't get me wrong. I want nothing more than my car being slammed. But I figure since I'll have an extra set of springs, I'm kinda curious how the car would be with stiffer springs - in the rear AND in the front... cuz I think my car has been oversteering due to the rear springs.
Last edited by SlammedBlueEM2; Apr 15, 2004 at 08:47 PM.
7thgen Power Maker
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No, the sets haven't arrived yet. I was told by my rep, Rawburt that they will be in the last week this month.
I can't believe this thread got to almost 50 pages. :wow:
I can't believe this thread got to almost 50 pages. :wow:
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From: 20916, CA
Rep Power: 304 i got my hayames in this morning. and they're, by far, much nicer than my previous set-up(racer design sleeved coilovers and stock shocks)
for those that have a two finger gap or less in the rears...did you have to sacrafice preload to go lower? when i was turning the strut downward, there was a point where strut stopped turning and then only the first(highest) locknut turned.
is 0 preload considered the first point where you cannot move the spring up or down?
any help would be appreciated. thanks guys.
for those that have a two finger gap or less in the rears...did you have to sacrafice preload to go lower? when i was turning the strut downward, there was a point where strut stopped turning and then only the first(highest) locknut turned.
is 0 preload considered the first point where you cannot move the spring up or down?
any help would be appreciated. thanks guys.
If the strut turns down to the point where you can't turn anymore then you're at the lowest point of your ride height.
"0" preload is considered having the spring secured (technically there is preload) but just enough so that the spring does not move around loosely on top of the perch.
"0" preload is considered having the spring secured (technically there is preload) but just enough so that the spring does not move around loosely on top of the perch.
Registered!!
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From: North York, Ontario, Canada
Rep Power: 0 nindoo -
It took me a VERY long time to install them, primarily because I'd never done a suspension install before. Also, several bolts were badly seized so I had to cut them off with a reciprocating saw and replace them.
I bought mine online from UrbanImport. Like I said in my post, my car's handling is now UNREAL. I never thought installing coil-overs and a rear sway bar (RSX Type-S, 19mm) could make such a big difference. Right now my trunk is full of tools and junk, so I haven't really pushed it. But I'm setting the ride height to what I want (2" drop) and cleaning out my car. Can't wait to REALLY test them out and see just how far I can push my car.
If you do plan on doing the install yourself, I recommend getting:
1) Two new tie-rod boots. If you're using a fork-type tie-rod seperator, chances are you'll damage the boot (I did!). These are like 4 bucks CDN each from a Honda dealer. You should use Molybdenum (sp?) grease when repacking them.
2) Rear lower strut bolts, 2 of them and access to a reciprocating saw (aka Saws-all). I tried using an impact gun, 3 foot pry bar and a propane torch to loosen these. No luck! So I cut them on either side of the stock strut and turned out the rest of the thread with visegrips.
It took me a VERY long time to install them, primarily because I'd never done a suspension install before. Also, several bolts were badly seized so I had to cut them off with a reciprocating saw and replace them.
I bought mine online from UrbanImport. Like I said in my post, my car's handling is now UNREAL. I never thought installing coil-overs and a rear sway bar (RSX Type-S, 19mm) could make such a big difference. Right now my trunk is full of tools and junk, so I haven't really pushed it. But I'm setting the ride height to what I want (2" drop) and cleaning out my car. Can't wait to REALLY test them out and see just how far I can push my car.
If you do plan on doing the install yourself, I recommend getting:
1) Two new tie-rod boots. If you're using a fork-type tie-rod seperator, chances are you'll damage the boot (I did!). These are like 4 bucks CDN each from a Honda dealer. You should use Molybdenum (sp?) grease when repacking them.
2) Rear lower strut bolts, 2 of them and access to a reciprocating saw (aka Saws-all). I tried using an impact gun, 3 foot pry bar and a propane torch to loosen these. No luck! So I cut them on either side of the stock strut and turned out the rest of the thread with visegrips.
Energy Suspension makes better tie rod boots - and they're almost just as cheap.
You couldn't get the rear lower strut bolts off? Have you tried using a breaker bar/ratchet and a simple pipe to loosen it? I know it's torqued on the car supertight but you make it sound as if it's unhuman to take it off. Oh well, I guess everyone's car is different and goes through different conditions that could cause **** like that to happen. Wow...
You couldn't get the rear lower strut bolts off? Have you tried using a breaker bar/ratchet and a simple pipe to loosen it? I know it's torqued on the car supertight but you make it sound as if it's unhuman to take it off. Oh well, I guess everyone's car is different and goes through different conditions that could cause **** like that to happen. Wow...
