View Poll Results: Will polishing the inside of an intake manifold improve performance?
Yes, it will improve performance
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No, it won’t do anything at all
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No, it will reduce performance
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Voters: 3. You may not vote on this poll
D17VTECPOWER threads consolidated - how a member should not behave
"Marge, anyone could miss Canada! All tucked away down there."
Joined: Feb 2016
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From: Barrie, ON Canada
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Re: How much faster with a 5 speed?
The owners manual is flat out wrong. The car doesn't have a limited diff from the factory. I don't recall if 2006 SI had them the first year or not, but NO US market civics had it prior to the 06 generation of civics.
If you truly want limited slip google phrases such as "torsen limited slip" or "Quaife" which is a company that makes lifetime warranty torque biasing differentials. You do NOT have limited slip on a factory built 1.7 civic. Regardless of anything else you may or may not find on the internet the underlined sentence is a true statement.
Once again if you want a faster car that is also reliable buy the 2.0 SI that hasn't been molested and then leave it alone.
If you truly want limited slip google phrases such as "torsen limited slip" or "Quaife" which is a company that makes lifetime warranty torque biasing differentials. You do NOT have limited slip on a factory built 1.7 civic. Regardless of anything else you may or may not find on the internet the underlined sentence is a true statement.
Once again if you want a faster car that is also reliable buy the 2.0 SI that hasn't been molested and then leave it alone.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 519 Re: Alternator vs. no alternator MPG test
What was the point in all this?
You may have gained a smidgen by running without a charging system, but the battery now has to be recharged and that requires not only energy from somewhere, but extra additional effort.
Net=LOSS
You may have gained a smidgen by running without a charging system, but the battery now has to be recharged and that requires not only energy from somewhere, but extra additional effort.
Net=LOSS
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From: Memphis, TN
Rep Power: 119 Re: Alternator vs. no alternator MPG test
The point of this was just as a test to see how much of of a difference the alternator makes.
The legs in the public bathroom stall
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From: MURICA
Rep Power: 143 Re: Alternator vs. no alternator MPG test
So I now change my suggestion from you should find and buy a used 2006-2011 civic SI that has never been molested. I now suggest that if you want more HP, better acceleration, better brakes, better pretty much everything a car should do the answer is simple. Buy this https://automobiles.honda.com/tools/...tcolorcode=EXT
You will have to plug it in at night, but it sounds like you are already doing that with your civic anyways. If that doesn't tickle your fancy you can get the accord hybrid or insight hybrid instead. They both (but especially the accord) will absolutely walk all over the performance of the 1.7 civics.
You will have to plug it in at night, but it sounds like you are already doing that with your civic anyways. If that doesn't tickle your fancy you can get the accord hybrid or insight hybrid instead. They both (but especially the accord) will absolutely walk all over the performance of the 1.7 civics.
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From: Memphis, TN
Rep Power: 119 Re: Alternator vs. no alternator MPG test
So I now change my suggestion from you should find and buy a used 2006-2011 civic SI that has never been molested. I now suggest that if you want more HP, better acceleration, better brakes, better pretty much everything a car should do the answer is simple. Buy this https://automobiles.honda.com/tools/...tcolorcode=EXT
You will have to plug it in at night, but it sounds like you are already doing that with your civic anyways. If that doesn't tickle your fancy you can get the accord hybrid or insight hybrid instead. They both (but especially the accord) will absolutely walk all over the performance of the 1.7 civics.
You will have to plug it in at night, but it sounds like you are already doing that with your civic anyways. If that doesn't tickle your fancy you can get the accord hybrid or insight hybrid instead. They both (but especially the accord) will absolutely walk all over the performance of the 1.7 civics.
The legs in the public bathroom stall
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From: MURICA
Rep Power: 143 Re: Alternator vs. no alternator MPG test
If MPG is your goal you are very limited by your choice of cars.
If performance is your goal you are very limited by your choice of cars
If maximum rally race handling is your goal you are very limited by your choice of cars.
If driving comfort is your goal you are very limited by your choice of cars.
At what point will you be happy? What is the end goal? What are you trying to achieve?
If you want a car that handles better, uses less fuel, brakes better, more reliable, etc...…...the answer is simple buy a car that already has all of the those features by design.
Personally I rarely question the starting point of peoples car hobbies. But people should have realistic expectations OR be willing to go to extreme efforts to reach unrealistic expectations.
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From: Memphis, TN
Rep Power: 119 Re: Alternator vs. no alternator MPG test
The problem isn't the fact that you tried/tested. The problem is that you are dicking with every thing on your car trying to achieve some pie in the sky fantasy of what you think your car can achieve. All the things you have changed or want to change or just ask about changing. These are all things that have already been designed.
If MPG is your goal you are very limited by your choice of cars.
If performance is your goal you are very limited by your choice of cars
If maximum rally race handling is your goal you are very limited by your choice of cars.
If driving comfort is your goal you are very limited by your choice of cars.
At what point will you be happy? What is the end goal? What are you trying to achieve?
If you want a car that handles better, uses less fuel, brakes better, more reliable, etc...…...the answer is simple buy a car that already has all of the those features by design.
Personally I rarely question the starting point of peoples car hobbies. But people should have realistic expectations OR be willing to go to extreme efforts to reach unrealistic expectations.
If MPG is your goal you are very limited by your choice of cars.
If performance is your goal you are very limited by your choice of cars
If maximum rally race handling is your goal you are very limited by your choice of cars.
If driving comfort is your goal you are very limited by your choice of cars.
At what point will you be happy? What is the end goal? What are you trying to achieve?
If you want a car that handles better, uses less fuel, brakes better, more reliable, etc...…...the answer is simple buy a car that already has all of the those features by design.
Personally I rarely question the starting point of peoples car hobbies. But people should have realistic expectations OR be willing to go to extreme efforts to reach unrealistic expectations.
The legs in the public bathroom stall
Joined: Mar 2015
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From: MURICA
Rep Power: 143 Re: Alternator vs. no alternator MPG test
If you want to do random testing I think a much more useful and valid test would be to see how much parasitic energy usage your car has when running with a total loss charging system. This would require a remote display ammeter that you could view and record from the passenger compartment. How many amps does it take to drive under normal conditions with no alternator output? I would expect a number around 10 amps with absolute NO nonessential loads, meaning no heater or lights. How long would a 10 amp load take to drain your battery below the minimum voltage required to keep the PCM awake. Personally I would consider that info to be much more useful. I suspect the PCM can stay alive down to around 8 volts, but at that point the fuel pump likely won't be able to generate enough pressure to run the engine loaded.
So if you want to drive around with no alternator with an ammeter and voltmeter attached to see at what point the car turns off I would be interested in hearing the results of that. Having an ammeter would also give you good appreciation on how much energy is used by your car under which conditions. Here is an example of quality ammeter from a reputable vendor that usually has good prices. https://www.waytekwire.com/item/7803...LED-Meter-AMP/
Blue sea systems is a company that makes quality electrical components for boats/ships and have a solid rep for quality.
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From: Memphis, TN
Rep Power: 119 Re: Alternator vs. no alternator MPG test
That can NOT be answered. It varies greatly. Having increased electrical loads will affect it. Headlights? Heater? Radio? Wipers? Those require the charging system to work. And another thing that adds a huge amount of load on the alternator is having to charge a discharged battery.
If you want to do random testing I think a much more useful and valid test would be to see how much parasitic energy usage your car has when running with a total loss charging system. This would require a remote display ammeter that you could view and record from the passenger compartment. How many amps does it take to drive under normal conditions with no alternator output? I would expect a number around 10 amps with absolute NO nonessential loads, meaning no heater or lights. How long would a 10 amp load take to drain your battery below the minimum voltage required to keep the PCM awake. Personally I would consider that info to be much more useful. I suspect the PCM can stay alive down to around 8 volts, but at that point the fuel pump likely won't be able to generate enough pressure to run the engine loaded.
So if you want to drive around with no alternator with an ammeter and voltmeter attached to see at what point the car turns off I would be interested in hearing the results of that. Having an ammeter would also give you good appreciation on how much energy is used by your car under which conditions. Here is an example of quality ammeter from a reputable vendor that usually has good prices. https://www.waytekwire.com/item/7803...LED-Meter-AMP/
Blue sea systems is a company that makes quality electrical components for boats/ships and have a solid rep for quality.
If you want to do random testing I think a much more useful and valid test would be to see how much parasitic energy usage your car has when running with a total loss charging system. This would require a remote display ammeter that you could view and record from the passenger compartment. How many amps does it take to drive under normal conditions with no alternator output? I would expect a number around 10 amps with absolute NO nonessential loads, meaning no heater or lights. How long would a 10 amp load take to drain your battery below the minimum voltage required to keep the PCM awake. Personally I would consider that info to be much more useful. I suspect the PCM can stay alive down to around 8 volts, but at that point the fuel pump likely won't be able to generate enough pressure to run the engine loaded.
So if you want to drive around with no alternator with an ammeter and voltmeter attached to see at what point the car turns off I would be interested in hearing the results of that. Having an ammeter would also give you good appreciation on how much energy is used by your car under which conditions. Here is an example of quality ammeter from a reputable vendor that usually has good prices. https://www.waytekwire.com/item/7803...LED-Meter-AMP/
Blue sea systems is a company that makes quality electrical components for boats/ships and have a solid rep for quality.
I checked amp draw with the engine idling and no accessories on a while ago, it's around 9 amps. Not sure about when driving, but that would be easy enough to check. I know from when my alternator died in the middle of nowhere years ago that this car behaves normally down to around 10 volts, but at around 9.5 volts, it starts to become slightly unhappy. At around 9 volts, it becomes very unhappy. And at around 8.5 volts, it completely dies.
I am planning to check amp draw of each load individually when my amp clamp comes, and I will post the results. That could also be helpful for people to have a baseline of what each component should draw when functioning properly.
And since my battery is 55 amp hours, presuming a steady 10 amp draw, I could theoretically drive for 5.5 hours with no alternator.
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From: Memphis, TN
Rep Power: 119 Re: Torque converter question
Here are the videos. But to address 2 things that I will probably hear about: First, the engine was actually warmed up during these pulls, the gauge is stuck. Second, those cigarettes are my mom's, not mine.
It seems that locked is actually quicker. Do you agree? I tried timing 60-70 locked vs unlocked. I couldn't really get consistent results, but locked seemed to be slightly quicker. You are welcome to try timing 60-70 in the videos if you want to though.
It seems that locked is actually quicker. Do you agree? I tried timing 60-70 locked vs unlocked. I couldn't really get consistent results, but locked seemed to be slightly quicker. You are welcome to try timing 60-70 in the videos if you want to though.
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Rep Power: 119 Re: Torque converter question
I think that I should try the same test from a lower RPM, like a 40-50 2nd gear pull. Maybe at 4000 RPM torque multiplication would improve acceleration. I am thinking that at such a high RPM, the torque converter didn't have enough slippage to matter much. Maybe the torque converter didn't even have enough slippage to multiply torque at such a high RPM.
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From: Memphis, TN
Rep Power: 119 Re: WTF is P1713?
So I think I figured this out. I had a parts store scan it to see if their scanner would give a definition, and it says "D3 Position Switch Circuit Malfunction". At first, I was confused since the range sensor was working correctly. So I decided to do some research on the Honda Stream transmission. I found that the pattern is P R N D D3 2, which is the same as mine. But then I realized a critical difference: To select D3, the shifter is moved to the left rather than being pulled down. I looked up a parts diagram on jp-carparts.com, and I found that rather than using the range sensor, the Honda Stream has a separate switch to detect when the shifter is in D3, which is actuated when the shifter is pushed to the left, as you can see from this picture.
So I am thinking that the PCM is detecting an issue with the D3 switch because it is not activated when the shifter is in 2, which is in the left position. That is the only explanation that makes sense to me.
So I am thinking that the PCM is detecting an issue with the D3 switch because it is not activated when the shifter is in 2, which is in the left position. That is the only explanation that makes sense to me.
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From: Memphis, TN
Rep Power: 119 Re: WTF is P1713?
Great idea, thanks! For that matter, I might even be able use the D3 position on the range sensor to ground those pins so D3 works. I have a question though- Is it possible that the pins that the D3 switch connects to are on the multiplex control unit of that car, or are they definitely on the PCM itself? Thank you and merry Christmas!
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From: Memphis, TN
Rep Power: 119 Re: WTF is P1713?
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Rep Power: 119 Re: WTF is P1713?
On normal PCM it looks like it has a D3 pin and a D3/D pin as well as R,P/N, and D2 pins on the actual PCM directly.
Maybe the single D3 pin need to be held while in D2 for that PCM to not complain on the “Stream ECU”. But it easily could be a different pin your harness is not even wired for.
Maybe the single D3 pin need to be held while in D2 for that PCM to not complain on the “Stream ECU”. But it easily could be a different pin your harness is not even wired for.
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From: Memphis, TN
Rep Power: 119 Re: WTF is P1713?
On normal PCM it looks like it has a D3 pin and a D3/D pin as well as R,P/N, and D2 pins on the actual PCM directly.
Maybe the single D3 pin need to be held while in D2 for that PCM to not complain on the “Stream ECU”. But it easily could be a different pin your harness is not even wired for.
Maybe the single D3 pin need to be held while in D2 for that PCM to not complain on the “Stream ECU”. But it easily could be a different pin your harness is not even wired for.
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From: Memphis, TN
Rep Power: 119 Re: Can transmission oil be too cold?
I noticed that my trans runs very cool in the winter. The oil cooling pipes on the transmission barely get warm, even after a 30 minute drive on the highway. I think I should get a thermostat on the transmission oil cooling lines so the oil stays at a reasonable temperature. Do you agree?
https://derale.com/products/fluid-co...s/13011-detail
https://derale.com/products/fluid-co...s/13011-detail
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From: Memphis, TN
Rep Power: 119 Re: I need a header for my D17A2
Well I ended up installing the stock header that came with my relatively new to me JDM D17A. RIP D17A2, you served me well for years. 
I immediately noticed that the low end torque is a LOT better with the stock header. The car feels a lot lighter when taking off from a stop, and it doesn't need to downshift as often when I need to accelerate. Power from idle to 4000 RPM is dramatically improved. I also really like that this header fits nicely. The Amazon header stuck out the front of the engine so far that it was about 1 inch from the cooling fan, and there was no way to get the heat shield on it.
The bad news is that I think it feels a bit less powerful from 5000 RPM to redline, although not a huge difference. Oh well
I immediately noticed that the low end torque is a LOT better with the stock header. The car feels a lot lighter when taking off from a stop, and it doesn't need to downshift as often when I need to accelerate. Power from idle to 4000 RPM is dramatically improved. I also really like that this header fits nicely. The Amazon header stuck out the front of the engine so far that it was about 1 inch from the cooling fan, and there was no way to get the heat shield on it. The bad news is that I think it feels a bit less powerful from 5000 RPM to redline, although not a huge difference. Oh well
"Marge, anyone could miss Canada! All tucked away down there."
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From: Barrie, ON Canada
Rep Power: 223 Re: Can transmission oil be too cold?
I noticed that my trans runs very cool in the winter. The oil cooling pipes on the transmission barely get warm, even after a 30 minute drive on the highway. I think I should get a thermostat on the transmission oil cooling lines so the oil stays at a reasonable temperature. Do you agree?
https://derale.com/products/fluid-co...s/13011-detail
https://derale.com/products/fluid-co...s/13011-detail
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From: Memphis, TN
Rep Power: 119 "Marge, anyone could miss Canada! All tucked away down there."
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From: Barrie, ON Canada
Rep Power: 223 Re: Can transmission oil be too cold?
A long time as long as they don't rust out. Girlfriend's '99 has 395,000 kms on it, with the original auto trans, runs and drives perfectly fine.
Stop messing with the car and trying to "improve" it
Stop messing with the car and trying to "improve" it
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From: Memphis, TN
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Joined: Dec 2008
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From: TN
Rep Power: 368 Re: I need a header for my D17A2
after more than a year, good, finally.
But though luck, more than a year turning a deaf ear to sound advice, causing chaos in the forums for no reason other than self satisfaction.
Sorry, but too late. Really. More than a year is just too much patience. Nope.
Good luck.
But though luck, more than a year turning a deaf ear to sound advice, causing chaos in the forums for no reason other than self satisfaction.
Sorry, but too late. Really. More than a year is just too much patience. Nope.
Good luck.
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Rep Power: 210 Re: I need a header for my D17A2
after more than a year, good, finally.
But though luck, more than a year turning a deaf ear to sound advice, causing chaos in the forums for no reason other than self satisfaction.
Sorry, but too late. Really. More than a year is just too much patience. Nope.
Good luck.
But though luck, more than a year turning a deaf ear to sound advice, causing chaos in the forums for no reason other than self satisfaction.
Sorry, but too late. Really. More than a year is just too much patience. Nope.
Good luck.
Have you ever heard the old saying "There are no stupid questions, only stupid answers."?
OF top 99.5% creator (Formerly of the Puffinblunts variety)
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Rep Power: 211 Re: I need a header for my D17A2
The problem with D17 was his tendency to create more problems than solve. Of course, it was his own problems he created with his own car or theories but, when offered advice he would basically ignore it and try to prove he was reinvening the wheel and that may qualify as stupid?
