mcnoople

There is an available analog throttle modulator that can help your car not bounce the rev limiter. Does your car have one installed. Do you need a link to such a unit or maybe a picture?

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

my long gone 01 LX auto did the same when going uphill at the mountains between TN/GA. normal

ezone

Install new trans that is correct for the car
Install new PCM that is correct for the car


profit

Wankenstein

Install an on/off switch for your transmission right next to the Vtec switch you installed. Also, change the jandy valve you installed for the water (heater) outlet valve from a manual to electronic...lol.

D17VTECPOWER

iTrader: (1)

No thank you. The trans never behaved this way until very recently.

D17VTECPOWER

iTrader: (1)

The trans is correct for the car, it's the original. And the PCM isn't causing the problem either. It shifted fine with this PCM until recently, and I swapped the PCM with another known good PCM that also shifted it correctly.

D17VTECPOWER

iTrader: (1)

I do not have a VTEC switch anymore. I installed a compatible ECU. I also fixed the heater control valve correctly.

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

what was the problem with the ECU anyway? You told us it would not work to program the keys, have not seem since then any feedback about what the problem was.

D17VTECPOWER

iTrader: (1)

The problem with the PCM was that it was failing, and the dealer supposedly couldn't program another US PCM. I lived with the bad PCM until I figured out that I could install a JDM PCM myself without the dealer flashing it.

Colin42

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

so, something other than a PCM was causing the problem.
Another wiring issue hidden below?

Wankenstein

ezone

Needs a trans!

Holy ****, you're an azzhole. That's funny.

Wankenstein

I think D17 is contemplating his next power upgrade, which is cutting a hole in the driver's side floorboard so he can use his feet Fred Flintstone style.

D17VTECPOWER

iTrader: (1)

Something I noticed a long time ago is that my car spins the tires if the front of the car is lifted off the ground and the engine is running, no matter where the shifter is. It spins the tires in neutral or park. The speedometer reads about 20 at idle, and if engine RPM is increased, the wheels spin faster. No one I asked has had an answer to why it does this. The dealer told me that this is normal. This is clearly NOT normal since the engine is not supposed to be connected to the wheels when the trans is not in gear. Anyone know why it does this? Thanks.

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

it's normal. in manual trans as well

Colin42

It is normal, the dealer is right.

Ccol19

Hi....new forum user. I wanted to mention something that a lot of civic owners, especially 7th gen, have mentioned. Its the high amount of confusion about the differences between non vtec, vtec-e and normal vtec engines.
Many have mentioned that even parts places and dealers are confused.
Sometimes they seem to list the same parts for vtec and vtec-e for example. Sure, some parts are going to be the same...most, in fact. But there still seems to be confusion about the vtec engines and so my opinion is that performance on many of these vehicles suffers because there is the potential for there to be vtec-e engines in civics that are supposed to be vtec and vice-versa....
are we getting the correct parts?
Anyway....I have had several Hondas and one was a factory EX vtec bought new by my father, passed on to me...came factory with 1.7 vtec....but when I tore the engine down I found that, instead of being vtec it was the vtec-e.....a big difference.
He complained for years that his honda didn't run as strong as my brother's ex...both were ex...and now i know why.
Brother's vehicle had the 5 lobe per cylinder camshaft (2 exhaust, 2 regular intake, 1 vtec high lift and duration lobe) and my fathers car, even though even the vin says its the same exact engine, same exact car, same year, has a vtec-e arrangement, which has 2 exhaust, 2 intake arrangement.
1 of these intake lobes is barely even a lobe, and if you look at it, it appears to be round until you really examine it. This intake lobe lifts the valves during normal operation and hooks up to a larger valve during hi rpm.

This is the designed-for-fuel efficiency-engine. This is not what we purchased.
This engine essentially operates as a 3 valve per cylinder engine most of the time and the very small camshaft lobe is for fuel economy.

My point:::: some of us are running around on vtec-e engines instead of real vtec.....a travesty of justice??!! Not really...just something to think about if your (especially 2001 to 2005) civic isn't running like you think it should.

My other 2003 ex runs like a bat out of he'll...it has a 5 speed and my other one doesn't, but that's not it...it just runs better, by far! I've had the valve cover off...it has the real vtec camshaft and rocker arrangement...(5 lobes per cylinder and 2 exhaust, 2 regular intake, and 1 vtec hi lift and duration lobe). Im just sayin'.......

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

what country are you in?

All US EX and Canada Si (majority of members are from US/Canada) are VTEC-E - D17A2 engine - for the 7th gen (01-05 cars), except for the Si (SiR in Canada) that uses the K20A3 engines.

The K-series have the actual original concept VTEC. VTEC-E is the economy version, more torque in Low-Mid RPM with 3 valves instead of 4

sadly, the original pictures were lost due to photobucket, but there are some explanations here:

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...-e-system.html

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...on-inside.html

Ccol19,

on separate note, just check how old the thread is before replying
If you are actually adding info to the thread, we don't mind, but sometimes the thread could be very old

ezone

Could be HX trim, D17A6 engine?

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

not completely familiar, was the A6 then actual original VTEC? I remember that Max Tierney dropped one in his civic.

That was one made for high mileage, if i remember correctly?

ezone

D17A6 is vtec-E lean burn
Also camshaft is different from A1 and A2

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_D_engine#D17A6

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

thanks! I did not look much into the HX model

D17VTECPOWER

iTrader: (1)

So after 240K, the OEM front wheel bearings need to be replaced. I am wondering if I can replace just the bearings, or if I need to replace the whole wheel hub assembly. Also, what brand is good for bearings? I remember hearing that NSK made the OEM wheel bearings, Is that correct? Thanks.

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

you will need a press to push the hub and then the bearings out of the hub.

D17VTECPOWER

iTrader: (1)

Not the answer that I was hoping for, but thanks for your help. Is there a DIY way to replace the whole wheel hub assembly then, or do I need a press for that too? I am not sure how to get the hub off the knuckle.

ezone

Bearings only unless there's a reason it needs more parts.
Maybe the snap rings depending on corrosion.
Axle nuts? Cotter pins? Alignment


I use a whizz wheel to slice and then crack the stuck race off of the hub.

D17VTECPOWER

iTrader: (1)

So this can be done without a press?

ezone

Need a press for the bearing. RTFM.

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)