Originally posted by one for the kid
i got my spacer yesterday so you all should be getting yours as well.


josh, if i still wanted to get the pulley installed, is there anyway you could do it for me? i live in vegas as well...

Originally posted by Ershall
the f*cking thing was designed for the D16, Josh give them their money back.

Originally posted by DaddyFatSacks
My buddy thats putting it on for me works at a Honda / Acura shop and has a 11.9 second daily driven 98 hatch. So if it can be done, he can do it!

I personally know five people that have ruined their main bearings after about 15K miles of non- OEM pulley use. Main bearings on Hondas don't normally fail; it's usually something else. Two main causes of bearing failure are lack of oil and excessive vibration. Since the bearings didn't spin, lack of oil can be ruled out, and since all five cars had underdrive pulleys, and all five failed right around 15K miles after the install of the pulley, through process of elimination, I've decided that the underdrive pulleys were at fault.

I live in vegas, where it gets hot, I installed it myself, just the crank pulley and it was a pita!!!
immediately I noticed major a/c cooling loss...to much underdriving for me. performance wise, well it does pick up quicker, mid-high end power has improved, over all I don't think it was worth the price and trouble installing it. Considering sticking my stock pulley back on. This underdriving of 15% is not true, its more like 50% They state the performance is from weight reduction, then why not offer them the same size as stock made out of aluminum???
All in all, its a racing pulley, if your racing get it, if not don't waste your time under driving everything...
my .02

If you look carefully at a Honda "pulley", you'll find that it's not a single piece of metal. Typically, there's a nodular iron or steel hub and another "ring" of iron or steel surrounding it containing the belt grooves. The two parts are joined by a rubber layer, which is highly compressed and sandwiched between them. Why rubber? If you notice, many four cylinder engines over the years have used counter rotating shafts to help make the engine "feel" smoother. Reciprocating internal combustion engines and especially in-line four cylinder versions, all produce shock pulses, which are very apparent to the occupants of the car. Every engine produces a shock pulse each time an individual cylinder fires. So, in the case of the four cylinder variety, there are four large individual pulses for each 720 degrees of crank rotation. Each time there's a pulse, it causes the internal components to do a rapid acceleration-deceleration event. When you consider the mass of all the internal components and visualize all these parts stopping and starting during their reciprocating and rotating motions, the additional stress "spikes" tend to make it all the more reason for one to wonder how any of it can work for any length of time. The harmonic balancer is made with the rubber coupling so that, when the individual "spikes" occur, the inner portion may move with the crank, but the rubber connected outer ring's mass helps prevent the hub and crank from going as far or as fast during the spikes or pulses. Remember that the outer part had considerable mass, so it tends to want to stay in motion at the speed that it's traveling and that's why it can prevent excessive harsh motion by the crank and other internal parts. To put it simply, the harmonic balancer is a shock absorber for the engine and thus prevents the individual pulses from destroying everything in the engine.

Make sure whatever pulley's you decide to use that they have some type of dampener.
Without a dampener the pulley may create excessive vibration in the crank causing damage to internals or oil pump failure.
This may happen even as a result of a lightweight pullet regardless of dampening.

I ran a lightweight OEM Civic Type R crank pulley on my Integra GSR block. (The GSR crank pulley is huge, and has slots for PS, AC, Alternator compared to the CTR Crank Pulley with just a slot for the alternator).
Even though the CTR Crank pulley is dampened, I still managed to shatter 2 oil pump gears!(which lead to spun bearings & blown turbo! ) I had no clue why. When I changed back to the stock GSR Crank Pulley, I never had the problem again.

I also do not believe that the weight of this pulley is really what provides the majority of the WHP increase, but the fact that it is actually under driving the accessories by 25%. I think a heavier pulley of the same diameter would show similar results on the dyno. My rough calculations for a 4 lb 6" disk to spin from 3K to 7K in 5 seconds, takes less than 1HP, so most of the gains are obviously not coming from the pulley weight reduction.

Dh-Racing Full Race Ported Head (Yes Just Like Mike From SF Has And He Tells You Of The Power It Makes)

$800 STARTING WITH US PROVIDING THE CORE

$50 Off Per Every 5 People Who Sign Up, So Get 10 People And It Would Be $700 Which is A STEAL FOR THIS KIND OF WORK. Expect gains of 30+ at the wheels, and much more on turbo setups. Thanks again everyone this is the time to jump on.