Rep Power: 511

If you don't have a header with larger ports, it ain't gonna do jack.

 
Rep Power: 118

That's strange. Mine runs just fine with no exhaust. Also, how would backpressure be beneficial? I don't understand how an exhaust restriction would help.

 
Rep Power: 118

But I do. I have a DC Sport 4-1 header. How much power can I gain if I port match the exhaust ports to the tubes on the header?

 
Rep Power: 367

Several older members actually put theirs in Dynos, so confirmed at wheels. No ECU changes. Just Intake/Header/Exhaust, and drop the Crower in

 
Rep Power: 367

I did not see it myself, but it have been reported as having them. Not sure how they look liker, though.

 
Rep Power: 118

So I could be making 160 HP at the crank for $380?

 
Rep Power: 367

it does not allow the gases to move freely, so it actually helps the piston move downward during the exhaust cycle. I think that was the theory, but have been decades since my ICE classes.

You are simply thinking on a very narrow range of what the engine needs to perform, that the gases are better being pulled out as quickly as possible, but low/med are important, or else you will never get at the top range, or take a lifetime to get there while pulling the car's weight.

Torque is what matters most in street driving, not HP, and is what pulls you out of the corners faster.

 
Rep Power: 118

That's weird, because mine doesn't have them. Maybe the USDM engines don't have them?

 
Rep Power: 367

at which RPM range? Upper, it will make the flow smoother, but low/med actually likes turbulent better.

Anyway, older members that put them in dinos showed 2-3HP?

Search through the older dino charts

 
Rep Power: 118

What would the compromise be?

 
Rep Power: 367

nope, you need the I/H/E - maybe for you, that already have them.

I had the CAI, then dropped the cam - it was quite impressive.

recently i put the DC sport header and it went even higher, but not as much as the cam, obviously. wonder how much it would be felt if i did all the I/H/E before dropping the cam in.

 
Rep Power: 367

again, this is info from older members.

 
Rep Power: 367

see this thread, for example - maybe they are not there, but seems the information is not only from this forum. Starts at post #6

https://www.hondacivicforum.com/foru...sy-swap-91921/

 
Rep Power: 367

note:

the 7th gen forums have a lot of the engine crazes that were once on this forum - actually, it's an off-shoot from here.
for more detailed info, you can hit there, not many engine crazes here, sadly.

However, they chew up newbies there (have been some years that i don't visit there, so not sure who is still there.

 
Rep Power: 367

leave as is?

PS: left some posts in the oil temp thread, check it.

 
Rep Power: 243

I like this guys videos.






It might give you 1-3 hp by itself but I think it just moves the torque curve. The D17 is not a powerful engine.

 
Rep Power: 118

Thanks for the links. I love his videos too. I've been a subscriber for years.

 
Rep Power: 518

Are you familiar with how a manual transmission and clutch work?

High gear/low engine RPM, maybe 40 MPH in 5th gear....you neeeeeed to accelerate quickly....so you mash the gas pedal to the floor........ do you expect a rapid rate of acceleration?
No.
If you want to accelerate rapidly, you downshift to a more appropriate gear so the engine can run within its powerband.

 
Rep Power: 118

Yup, I understand a manual. I understand why an automatic would downshift when accelerating. What I don't understand is how the torque converter slipping would improve acceleration. Wouldn't that be a little like saying if you slip the clutch on a manual you would improve acceleration because the engine would be at a higher RPM where it can make power? I just don't understand.

 
Rep Power: 518

A TCC that slips when it should be fully locked, is bad.

A TCC that is engineered to be slipped, IMO is not done for torque transfer purposes nor torque multiplication purposes.

Don't confuse TCC with torque converter. They are two separate components within the same housing.

 
Rep Power: 118

I understand that the TCC and torque converter are 2 different things. What I don't understand is how the torque converter slipping from not being locked improves acceleration.

 
Rep Power: 518

Torque multiplication....but as stated before that is at its maximum at stall, and decreases as input and output shaft speeds rise and become closely matched.

The basic torque converter is a fluid coupling so it isn't really considered "slip" per se; it will never maintain a 1:1 ratio under any load without a TCC.

A basic torque converter graph from GIS:






If that img doesn't work just copy/pasta

 
Rep Power: 367

in the end, what did you decide to do about the cars?

 
Rep Power: 118

My crappy DC Sports header has been cracked for over a year, and I don't think it's worth having it welded. It'll probably just crack somewhere else if I do. I tried all the exhaust repair products, and none of them worked for long. I think I am better off replacing it, and I found this header: It looks well made and is reasonably priced, but I don't know if it's performance or longevity will be good. I don't want to buy a POS that will just crack again or be worse performance wise. What do you think of this header? Thanks.

 
Rep Power: 118

I didn't do anything yet, but I'll let you know when I do.

 
Rep Power: 118

What I’ve always done in the winter is tape off the upper grill to help the engine warm up quicker, start the engine, let it idle for about 30-60 seconds before driving to ensure that oil and other fluids are flowing to all components and build a little heat in the engine, then drive off gently without using the heater until the engine fully warms up, then drive as normal. Is that the right thing to do? I can let the engine idle until it warms up, but I believe that I would be doing more harm than good running then engine while it’s cold for more time than required. I want to do the best thing possible for the car, a 2005 Civic VTEC, which is why I’m asking. I always use high quality full synthetic fluids and I always change the oil and filter right before winter with high quality 0w20 oil, like Mobil 1, Castrol Edge, or Valvoline Synpower, and a quality filter, like Wix, Mobil or Purolator. I always wax the car before winter and summer. I also frequently pressure wash the outside of the car, the underside of the car and the engine compartment to remove salt. Is there anything else I can do to prevent damages? Thanks.

 
Rep Power: 118

My 2005 Civic VTEC has had the engine light in for over 4 years. The cat melted and caused the engine to not run right, so I cut it off and welded a pipe in. $80 for a universal high flow cat wasn’t worth it to me since we don’t have inspections in this state. Then the downstream o2 sensor died, so P0420 changed to P0140. No big deal, right? So now I’m up to $110 for the engine light to go off. Not worth it to me. Then the EGR valve stuck open, so I removed it, cut the base off and welded a metal plate over it to make a block off. No big deal. That’s $200 to get the engine light off. Waste of money to me, I’m saving for a K swap. Now the upstream A/F ratio sensor died, causing P0134. That I will fix, because it can effect the A/F ratio, but the cat, EGR valve and downstream o2 sensor won’t get fixed, the engine light doesn’t bother me. I now wonder if I am the only one in the world that lives with an engine light. What are your experiences with engine lights?

 
Rep Power: 210

Yes, you are.

Do a quick fix and put a piece of electrical tape over the CEL..problem solved

 
Rep Power: 367

I have a downhill right after leaving driveway. I just turn it on and drive. naturally, not mashing throttle until it gets more heat

some say they idle for 5 -10 minutes, but that is really not going to heat engine - rich mixture.

 
Rep Power: 118

It’s not causing any problem, so why waste money fixing it? What would the advantage be?