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Ask him.

 
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Double post... somehow.

 
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Hi guys,

I need
I had my hayame installed from a mechanic person at VW dealer. The install part and alignment were finished successfully. However, there is a thud noise coming from the front either driver or passenger side . I took my car back the mechanic at VW and they noticed that both strut from the front are loosing . Even though, everything is tight but they can still moving both wheels back and forth.
Is this common problem or defected strut . Whenever I make parallel parking there is always a loud thud noise like metal against each other that make my brain goes .
I also asked the mechanic guy to set the pre-load to soft and hard but it didn't fix problem.


I will try to create the video clip to show you all how it moving.

 
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What year civic do you have? Did you read TeLLy post (last page) Maybe the springs are not seat properly in the center.

 
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Yes, reseat the coils so that they are centered and make sure that the rubber rings on either end of the coil aren't squished out of place, which is all too easily done if you don't hold them in place while tightening the first nut (the one that sets the preload).

 
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Oh yea also check out this post.

 
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Out of curiousity, I jacked the car today and its freaking wiggling again. The tie-rod nut is tight but still wiggles.

I am waiting for another two weeks and I will make my final decision if I should return this ish.

 
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where did you buy the hayames from?

 
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I got mine from UrbanImport. I live 12miles away from SPW Industries and been there to show them the wiggle. SPW Industries says wait for everything to settle and make my ultimate decision. Settle? How is the wiggle going to settle?

 
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SPW cracks me up how hard they try to sound like a manufacturer. They're just a distributor!

 
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2001 4 doors LX
It is doing very smooth on highway and is better than stock .

 
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I asked the VW tech guy to take it apart and set everything back twice but the noise and wiggle still the same .

 
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Its the same with my ride. SPW Industries even took the suspension apart and could not find a valid explanation. They said that their suspension has bearing on the top strut and its causing the whole suspension to wiggle. They said that the stock has a solid rubber thats why it doesnt move. My conclusion is that the tie-rod insertion design is the problem.

I dont wanna spend another $50 to a different alignment shop just to find out that this wiggle is NOT normal.

Its amazing how it rides okay on the freeway, but not on the street where you hit little bumps at 40mph

But Byron claims to be the designer of the suspension.

WOW!

Im really returning this soon as TEIN Basic becomes available thru the shop Im getting it from.

 
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I don't believe the tie-rod had anything to do with the wiggle. You can jack the car up with another person moving the wheel and you will see where it is wiggling from. I saw the suspension moving from the connection between the top mount and and the bearing. I think Hayame should design the front suspension again and use the same stock top mount .

 
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If the design of the tie-rod (underside insertion) was not causing this, then how come stock suspension doesnt move? And why did the wiggle stopped when the shop used a small air-gun to tighten the nut on the tie-rod end? But it's loose again when I checked it yesterday.

If there is some pressure on the top of the arm (OEM style insertion to the top of the arm), then it would not wiggle because there is a constant pressure by pushing the arm downward. With the suspension arm on top of the tie-rod end, there is nothing to hold that suspension and prevent it to wiggle.

 
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If Byron was the one who designed the Hayame coilovers then Noah would've went to HIM about the new design. But instead, Noah took his word from another distributor (regarding drilling the tie rod holes) - NOT from his co-worker who works with him. Mike from UrbanImport said himself that SPW was the "American distributor."

He didn't design ****.

 
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Any mechanic or engineer in here ????

How about if we drill the hole bigger and flip the tie-rod to the oem style?
Use a washer for the nut

 
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That's what I'm saying. Noah said drill from the top but the hole the tie rod goes in is tapered. There's no way you duplicate a tapered hole. Some people drilled and (like me) can't even drive their cars because the alignment is ****ed up.

 
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I wish you were there when I was talking to the SPW Industries owner, co-owner, Noah, and Byron. They all said "miscommunication" about drilling the tapered hole.

They distribute but they are the one responsible for the design. That's according to their Product Dev't Manager, Byron.

So who else distributes this aside from SPW Industries?

See, Im not even trying to defend them, Im actually blaming them for the poor design.

At this point, I am not ready to argue (again) about SPW Industries.

 
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I don't have my OEM suspension with me but I think it has bigger bearing between the top mount and the strut. Hayame designed with smaller bearing because their suspension diameter is a lot smaller. I think the wiggle and noise occur because of the smaller bearing. I will check the bearing from the OEM suspension again tomorrow. Look at the middle nut when you move the wheel. Hope they recall this tihs back and replace a better one.

 
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From what my memory serves me, Noah said a guy who was a distributor (I don't believe he said was a vendor) - said that the holes had to be drilled for it to work. He said this guy installed the V2s on a car and they worked fine.

There's no mis-communication. If the situation was too technical for Noah, or he was not informed about the new design changes (since SPW is responsible for it), then Noah shouldn't be handling the situation. I guess all Noah was trying to do was get information about it, but it looks like he didn't even know SPW was responsible for the design and how it worked to begin with.

And I dunno what to say about this wiggling issue. I don't believe the cause of it is due to the tie rod going in upside down more than it being Hayame's error when they crafted it. Hayame wasn't the only full coilover company to start doing that with new Civics/RSXs.

And as far as these tie rod sleeves... I know a few people are waiting on new ones to arrive (for those that drilled). This was supposed to be an issue that would be resolved within a 7 day period, but if people have complained about the wiggling issue to Noah, then I assume it's taking such a long time because they're probably making new tie rod sleeves for everyone, but who knows? We know it's coming from overseas and that is gonna take weeks just for it to reach SPW. It's been a long time already. For the patient people, I hope it's worth the wait.

 
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Word. It's designed to be that way because when you lower your car the tie rod can stay in about the same place. Just flip it around and it'll be all set. As far as the other problems people are having...

I installed my V2's and I had 0 problems. They are installed and doing fine. The only thing I can complain about (and did in a previous thread) was about the lock collar coming undone every once in a while. Two lock collars for the bottom should be the next improvment. Oh yeah, and a plastic spring isolator instead of a rubber one. I'm looking at Energy Suspension for this...

 
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the first ones came with a plastic one, not sure why they changed it to rubber this time around...

It looks like you guys are still talking about the "wiggle". I really dont see how they would wiggle though seeing how they're attached to the hub. If it wiggles it would mean that it's loose.

 
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I tightened my lock nut by banging on the tightening wrench with a mini sledge hammer and it still came loose. Is this the wiggle that you're talking about? Mine wiggles then. I can't tighten it down enough. I think it's cause the threads are not drilled out properly and there is some space there for movement.

 
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My lock nuts are still tight as of today - 1 week straight of potholes and speedbumps. Yes Grey, I had to really tighten the 3rd lock nut; used a hammer to bang on the spanner wrench. I'm gonna have the car up again over the weekend to reinstall a sidemarker bulb, I'll check for wiggle again. Last time I didn;t get any but then again I'm told I wasn't wiggling it right. First time EVER in my life that I've been told that.

 
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Hey guys, this may sound absolutely idiotic but has anyone checked the nut at the top of the strut body, you know the one in the middle of the three mounting bolts? I tightened both of mine when I got my car back last week; the one on the passenger side wasn't on as tight as the one on the driver side.

 
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maybe try putting a washer or rubber band or something on that 3rd locknut so that it actually has better grip to hold

 
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Hmm... I'll check mine. Tighten it to 33 foot pounds (as per Robb's spec).

Yeah, I think I'll actually wrap the threads in teflon tape. Maybe that will help. I'm looking for new locking rings for the coilovers too. I mangled mine up trying to tighten them. Aluminum sucks for those, they should be stainless steel. Plus notice how the tightening wrench doesn't fit the edges that are carved out on those. It slips and it mangles the edges.

 
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Yup. Byron checked it and tighten it and didnt solve the wiggle. The other alignment shop was able to figure why, the tie-rod end nut was causing the wiggle. It has been tightened but after I drove 300 miles, I checked it again out of curiousity and the wiggle is back.

VNlilMan said the wiggle is normal when the car is jacked up.

Grey and the others said they dont have the wiggle when the car is jacked up.

Ultimately, the wiggle wasnt normal since the 2nd alignment shop was able to fix it. Then it appears that the fix was temporary and the 2nd alignment shop doesnt know it yet.

Also, I just dont see the reason behind the tie-rod end needs to be inserted from the bottom and because of the 3-locking perches.

According to SPW, the reason why the tie-rod end is to be inserted from the bottom is to anticipate the lowering of the car, correct? If the anticipation of the lowering the objective, then why not design a shorter arm? Wait, didnt they do that on the V1, where the arm looks like it can break when you hit a pot hole?

VNlilMaN, let me know where you are free and maybe you can wiggle my front wheels

 
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the wiggle is probably something different from what i was talking about.
But yeah I dont see how it would wiggle when the strut is attached to the hub in the first place. How did the 2nd place fix it anyway? Maybe they fixed it by tightening the 3rd locknut but it became loose again?

The tie rod end being flipped over doesnt have anything to do with the 3rd locknut.

"According to SPW, the reason why the tie-rod end is to be inserted from the bottom is to anticipate the lowering of the car, correct? If the anticipation of the lowering the objective, then why not design a shorter arm? Wait, didnt they do that on the V1, where the arm looks like it can break when you hit a pot hole?"
Well yeah the straight arm did help but people complained about it looking too weak. I never had any problems with the straight arm. And it didnt break from pot holes, it bent from people hitting curbs at 40mph... But yeah flipping the tie rod end is supposed to have a similar effect as the straight arm except it looks beefier